Grandpa's Second Try - Come Join Us!

Eyes4grandpa said:
OT...not sure about the PPMs. Mainly because I just don't know what that reading indicates or how to actually adjust and when to adjust. Simply put, I haven't done any research on that yet. We will definitely check the Rh over 24 hours and see where we are. As far as the water, we are using water that has been bubbling or at least 24 hours, then then, then applying. If we did use nutes, be red and then adjusted pH after they were added to the water. We are consistently having to drop the pH from between 7.5 and 8 down to between 6.3 and 6.5.
I am also thinking that we may need to add a second fan, and use it as an intake fans to complement the exhaust fan on the other side of the tent. The clip on fan is now aim to give them the gentle breeze you mention. Good luck with those Maui Wowee seeds. I sure wish that I had kept a few of the ones that we habitually threw away back in the late sixties and seventies. Could you please put the link to your Journal all by itself in either a post here or in a p.m. to me please?
BB...I have heard and read the same things around here about Mammoth. Received we received what we have as a freebie when we bought our Earth Juice. We will no longer be using it in the regular regimen that any longer. I will also recommend against it to anyone with questions about it.
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Joe, this is what I'm referencing.
 
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My concern is that he is managing to lower ph with little to no change; leading me to believe his water source is saturated with base elements. After picking through his last journal, I see many similar signs between the two despite him having done everything in his power to avoid the same outcome.

I read in one of his posts that he uses water that has been "bubbling" for a day, does he mean boiling? This would result in high concentrations of base elements. Even if he only meant bubbling, accounting for evaporation would still equate to higher TDS/PPM.

My only suggested route of action would be to flush with RO water for the time being.. Once his plants show signs of improvement/new growth, I'd feed them lightly. I'd also find a new water source.. The water source is the primary common denominator here.
 
I don't know where you guys came from... But thank you so much for subbing in and taking things over like you have. I have got so much help and now even more! I will definitely get some close up pictures of the leaves for you. I still don't understand about PPMs and how they work and affect the growth of the plant. in reading your banter back and forth, and remembering what I have already read and researched, I'm sure a lot of our problems is and was the water, and the PPMs might be the solution at last. Don't know for sure, as I am not very knowledgeable yet, but I want to learn. If you guys could do me a huge favor, the charts you posted are images and my wife can read them. The issue is she'll never understand them as she is not very technically inclined in any way. I'm going to try to find an application on the Play store so that I can maybe have it separate the text from the images and read it to me. I don't know if anything like that exists, but it's worth at least a search. Thanks again all of you! I would use your names separately, but I simply cannot remember them all and I cannot go back to reference because of the way my phone types using my voice. May God bless guys!
 
I'm sure no one will say I'm wrong when I say that all of 420magazine is behind you 100%, Grandpa. We want you to succeed :)

Here's the complete page on Potassium interactions and factors that affect availability, I hope it is of some help to you!
Factors Affecting K Availability

Soil CEC: Plant-available soil K is in the ionic (electrically charged) form. This charge is positive, making K a cation, represented as K+. Cations are attracted to, and held by negatively charged colloids (primarily clay and organic matter) that make up the cation exchange capacity (CEC) of the soil. The larger the CEC, the more K that can be held by the soil and the higher the soil test needed to adequately feed plants.

Soil test K:Higher soil test K increases the available K, by increasing the amount and balance of K relative to other cations.

Cation Balance: Where there is a significant imbalance between available K and the other major cations (Primarily Calcium, Magnesium, and sometimes Hydrogen, Aluminum, or Sodium), it may affect the availability of K to the crop.

Soil Moisture: K is transported within the soil and is absorbed by plant roots in the soil water. Therefore a water deficiency results in less K absorption.

Soil pH: As the soil pH is reduced (increasing soil acidity) the availability of K is often reduced.

Soil Temperature: Cold soils often reduce the availability of K.

Soil compaction: Compacted soils often reduce the availability of K.

Soil Drainage/Aeration: As soil drainage is improved, K uptake typically improves.

Soil Salinity: Saline soils often have excess sodium (Na). One of the negative effects of excess Na is that it reduces the availability of K.
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Interactions

K/Mg ratio: Each of K or Mg can reduce the uptake of the other when the "normal" soil balance does not exist. Typically, we find high K levels inhibiting the uptake of Mg. However, some Midwest soils have enough Mg to reduce K availability, especially to high-demand crops.

Other Cation ratios: There are occasions when K uptake might be restricted due to an imbalance with other cation elements in the soil. For example, in many high pH soils there is an excess of Ca. Competition from this Ca could reduce uptake of K. Strongly acid soils will often have an excess of hydrogen (H), aluminum (Al), iron (Fe), and possibly other cation elements. These excess elements can compete with K for entry into the plant, and/or set up soil conditions that are unfavorable to efficient K utilization.

Soil pH: This subject is intertwined with both of the previous points. While we don't think of K as leachable, in acid soils with low CEC's, we find that K can be leached somewhat. Where initial soil tests or fertilizer programs are not sufficient to offset this loss mechanism, we can see lower yields and crop quality.
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Once we reach a conclusion we will post in plain english. But what i am reading is your water is adding a lot of nutrients and minerals. You cant be sure what those nutrients are or what their concentration is. Then when you add your nutrient solution it throws the soil chemistry all out of balance causing a number of different problems.
 
knighthawktfc said:
Last I read was that exit sample was 6.3 (after correcting input water ph ~two weeks ago)
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Hmm okay sorry got busy my bad


CHeck this chart out let's see .....

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I really hope so, Pennywise. It would break my heart to let down Eyes4Grandpa. He deserves to enjoy amazing self grown meds :cool:
 
Grandpa & Kelley had this same problem in their first grow, the plants started out great, and things slowly declined as the plants grew, on the first grow they didn't have a PH pen or a TDS pen, while they are now bubbling out the chlorine before adding nutes and PH'ing down after, They are using city tap water, but a 24 hour bubble will not get rid of anything but the chlorine, so what is left is a "base" and what we don't know is what that base is.

My tap water is average 350 PPM out of the tap, after setting 24 hours, it is 280-300 PPM, so until we know what the base is, adding any nutes at 1/4 1/2 could be too much. You also have to take in the consideration of the natural goodies in the soil, the size of the plant, the humidity of the tent. While tent temps seem to be in range...75-80 degrees, moisture in the tent is a big factor on how the plant uses the light.

Looking at the pictures shows classic tip burn followed with yellow slowly working its way to the stem over the last 2 weeks, over watering, with lack of moisture in the tent environment would be my first guess...basically slow cooking inside the tent.

Grandpa, we really need to know;
1; What is the average humidity in your tent with lights on for 12 hours, and what is the humidity with the lights off for 12 hours? It should be 40-50 % with lights on and 50-65 % with lights off.
2; What is the PPM's of your water out of the tap? and what is it after bubbling for 24 hours? If your base PPM's are high, then we will need to know what you city is adding to the water, what is added is probably the same stuff that you are adding and that could be causing the problems, it should be on their website.
3; When you water to run-off do you empty the catch trays or do you let the pots sit in water?
4; Do you have a spacer between the bottom of the pots and catch basin to allow air to circulate underneath the pot?

MJ is basically like any other plant, it needs a little warmth, humidity, water, light, and a caretaker to help it when mother nature fails.:circle-of-love:

We are here to help, but without hard info, guessing is a crapshoot that usually ends bad.
 
pennywise said:
Once we reach a conclusion we will post in plain english. But what i am reading is your water is adding a lot of nutrients and minerals. You cant be sure what those nutrients are or what their concentration is. Then when you add your nutrient solution it throws the soil chemistry all out of balance causing a number of different problems.
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It does make sense is there any way he can take his water source and get it tested somewhere? But I agree what can it hurt to try ro?

I thought p lockout too going over the scale I posted .

I really do hope we can get this guys medicine growing happy and healthy again it saddens me truly .
 
Old TimingMan said:
Grandpa & Kelley had this same problem in their first grow, the plants started out great, and things slowly declined as the plants grew, on the first grow they didn't have a PH pen or a TDS pen, while they are now bubbling out the chlorine before adding nutes and PH'ing down after, They are using city tap water, but a 24 hour bubble will not get rid of anything but the chlorine, so what is left is a "base" and what we don't know is what that base is.

My tap water is average 350 PPM out of the tap, after setting 24 hours, it is 280-300 PPM, so until we know what the base is, adding any nutes at 1/4 1/2 could be too much. You also have to take in the consideration of the natural goodies in the soil, the size of the plant, the humidity of the tent. While tent temps seem to be in range...75-80 degrees, moisture in the tent is a big factor on how the plant uses the light.

Looking at the pictures shows classic tip burn followed with yellow slowly working its way to the stem over the last 2 weeks, over watering, with lack of moisture in the tent environment would be my first guess...basically slow cooking inside the tent.

Grandpa, we really need to know;
1; What is the average humidity in your tent with lights on for 12 hours, and what is the humidity with the lights off for 12 hours? It should be 40-50 % with lights on and 50-65 % with lights off.
2; What is the PPM's of your water out of the tap? and what is it after bubbling for 24 hours? If your base PPM's are high, then we will need to know what you city is adding to the water, what is added is probably the same stuff that you are adding and that could be causing the problems, it should be on their website.
3; When you water to run-off do you empty the catch trays or do you let the pots sit in water?
4; Do you have a spacer between the bottom of the pots and catch basin to allow air to circulate underneath the pot?

MJ is basically like any other plant, it needs a little warmth, humidity, water, light, and a caretaker to help it when mother nature fails.:circle-of-love:

We are here to help, but without hard info, guessing is a crapshoot that usually ends bad.
Click to expand...

Man I've been hearing slot of peeps tap water is up around 300-600 ppm out tap insane .


Mine is about 120 out my tap.

Ppm part per million

Add nutes in between and stick your ppm
Meter in it, each time you add trace elements or base nutes watch ppm increase ?


Ppm Plays an important role growing cannabis in short , it shows you what the plant is eating and how much essentially .

Here is an example for you to get an idea how ppm levels should be at certain highs and lows during the different stages of a plants growth.

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This is ppm for autos not photos ...
 
All of this info is Just Awesome! By the way, we went ahead and placed a bowl of water with a towel hanging out of it to help improve humidity. We will get readings of Rh as soon as we can get the humidity sensor working. You asked for pictures of the leaves on a close-up, and here they are.
This is a picture of the leaves as they are new on the plant. Nice and green.
New_Leaves.jpg

Kelley tells me that they look this way even in as short of the time as one day.
Leaves_Turning.jpg


And with this, this old man is heading to the bed. My back and my shoulders need medication. I am also very tired this evening for some reason. I thank all of you again for chiming in and helping and trying to figure this out for us. You guys simply... Rock! .
 
I'll be checking in daily until we figure this out I promise ... any one with meds for back and muscle bone issues have my truest deepest sympathy .
 
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