Mine is .7 and I calibrate monthly. It is always pretty close. If you follow my stuff you can safely use my numbers. Here's a chart
PPM to EC conversions - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®
Every time I go over 1000 in late flower, I regret it.
Go4snypr - Hydro Grow
- Thread starter go4snypr
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Mine is .7 and I calibrate monthly. It is always pretty close. If you follow my stuff you can safely use my numbers. Here's a chart
PPM to EC conversions - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®
Every time I go over 1000 in late flower, I regret it.
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- #82
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- #83
just a photo update, plants are all doing well... I think I got carried away on the nutes on the new guy. He was burning a little too much, damaged a couple fan leaves, I just gave that guy straight water for the last 2 days, going back to feeding tomorrow, all the new growth looks good on it. I noticed some nitrogen curl on my scrog plant as my ppm was a little high (900 ish)... thinned it out to 670ppm so hopefully I dont burn it too badly. enjoy the pics. criticism always welcome...
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- #85
wipe your computer screen, my camera is fine lol.. .jk, just the camera on the cell phone, probably scratched the lens....was reading your defoliation blog, should i be pulling fan leaves off of this thing??
I would pull about 3 off a day until you get to the 30 day mark, then if you want to take off about 6 a day, you can get more aggressive then. Don't pull more than one fan per branch at a time.
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- #87
Hey all, been a few days, I would like to say everything is looking good, but I would be lying. About 25 days into flower, went into my room today, my scrog plant is looking like its having a minor problem. My phone was dead so I didnt get a picture. Fan Leaves are starting to get rust spots, leaf tips looking a little burnt, ph was low at right around 5.01 ish, and ppm up at 840-860. The other plant is showing same signs but also had a couple of big fan leaves near the top that have yellowed quite bad and have bad dead spots. also had low ph 4.8 and ppm over 800. I am guessing it is a lock out due to over fert, so I rinsed both plants with straigh R.O water. I shut the pump timer off and gonna feed straight water again tomorrow to both plants, then go back to feeding in a day or two. I also thinned out the res to 550 ppm in both tanks. I will get some pics up tomorrow of the damage.
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- #88
here are a couple of pics, kinda poor quality. I watered with R.O water for 2 days, probably 5 gallons into each pot. I thinned out the nutrient solution by from 840 to 550 ish. went back to feeding today. both totes back to the 5.8 or 5.9 mark. Here is a couple pics of the damage.
That's a bummer but don't let it get you down. It sounds like you're doing the right thing. For the next week I would keep the PPM around 600 and continue on. Make sure you're using calmag or calimagic at 4ml/gal. I think you will be fine.
FWIW, I check PH and PPM at LEAST every other day, but usually every day. I know that's not possible for some people.
Sometimes a falling PH can be caused by matter rotting.... for example, if a leaf falls into the res and decomposes. So just double check to make sure your res isn't funky.
FWIW, I check PH and PPM at LEAST every other day, but usually every day. I know that's not possible for some people.
Sometimes a falling PH can be caused by matter rotting.... for example, if a leaf falls into the res and decomposes. So just double check to make sure your res isn't funky.
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- #90
Thanks Capn. Being this far into flower I would sure hate to lose them now lol... I try to check ph every day, not sure how it got away on me like that. It would be lots easier to monitor if I had it at home, but unfortunately that's not the case. Things are back under control now. fresh water in the res, the plants are not getting any worse (for now anyways), only 4 -5 weeks to go I hope.
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- #91
been back to feeding for a couple of days now, ph is still dropping in the scrog tote and the ppm is continuing to rise. I am going to flush it with R.O water again tomorrow and the next day, possibly even a third day or more. The plant not under the screen is holding steady around 570 ppm, and ph is right around 5.9. had to tie some of the branches to the outside as it is getting to close to my light and starting to get some light bleaching.....
HunterHunt
Well-Known Member
It doesnt look like you have nute burn to me. It looks like you are either having a pH problem locking nutes out or not the correct nute ratio. Kinda looks like a Potassium deficiency or a possible tip burn with manganese deficiency. Maybe some of the pros can give you some more info on this. Check out the charts maybe they will help!
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- #93
I believe it is a ph a problem to a degree as well. My ppm keeps climbing, which, from what i read, means the plant is using water and no nutirents. this is causing my ph to drop. it was down at 4.6 yesterday. But if I took a picutre of the rest of the plant, I have multiple leaves that have nitrogen curl, and the tips of lots of the leaves are starting to burn. I think I let the ppm get a little high and now I have a lock out. I am going to completely change the water today, fresh nutes and a couple days of straight R,O water for her then back to feeding again. I am at day 31 of flower, gonna try to keep her on track and not stress it too much. I am heading out of town for three days though, so I want to have things in order for when I leave. Thanks for the info HunterNitro!!
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- #94
Well, just got back after 4 days out of town. The plants are at day 37 of flower. I still seem to be having a problem with nutrients. It appears to be a multitude of deficiencies or lock outs. I have brown spots, burnt edges, leaf tips curling up, ect.. I have flushed with straight water, cut the ppm back to 550 for a couple days. I am starting to think maybe it is a possible potassium deficiency and not a lock out. The buds themselves look good as well as the sugar leaves on them. it is just the fan leaves being effected. i bumped up the nutrients and added some fresh stuff, hoping only 30 more days to go.
shanker65
New Member
Hey Snyper,
Don't fret; Your plants are doing fine and they will survive with no problems to get you a nice smokeable harvest!
At this point in your grow some of the leaves are going to start looking deficient and curly no matter what you do... Worrying about it and trying to fix it is probably going to make things worse. I would just keep her on about half the dosage that you are using for the remainder of the grow. That's just my opinion though. I'm not super experienced but I feel like it's good advice for ya.
Your plant will use less and less nutrients from this point forward in your grow as she is done all her major growing.
pH is going to naturally drop quite a bit each day (0.1 - 0.4)as your plant becomes more mature... You should be able to add at least a gallon or two of fresh water to your reservoirs each day to keep it in check.
I add around 2.5gallons of fresh water each day, but before adding it I add approx .5ml/L - 1ml/L of Silica Si which brings the pH of what I'm adding up to around 6.3. This way my main reservoirs always stay right around 5.8/5.9 (I have two 15gal reservoirs)
Good luck! Keep us posted!
Don't fret; Your plants are doing fine and they will survive with no problems to get you a nice smokeable harvest!
At this point in your grow some of the leaves are going to start looking deficient and curly no matter what you do... Worrying about it and trying to fix it is probably going to make things worse. I would just keep her on about half the dosage that you are using for the remainder of the grow. That's just my opinion though. I'm not super experienced but I feel like it's good advice for ya.
Your plant will use less and less nutrients from this point forward in your grow as she is done all her major growing.
pH is going to naturally drop quite a bit each day (0.1 - 0.4)as your plant becomes more mature... You should be able to add at least a gallon or two of fresh water to your reservoirs each day to keep it in check.
I add around 2.5gallons of fresh water each day, but before adding it I add approx .5ml/L - 1ml/L of Silica Si which brings the pH of what I'm adding up to around 6.3. This way my main reservoirs always stay right around 5.8/5.9 (I have two 15gal reservoirs)
Good luck! Keep us posted!
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- #96
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I'm a bit late, but I'm here. Subbed!
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Hey snypr, just wanted to say DAMN! That scrog plant is a monster. Shanker's suggestion of adding a silica product is a very good suggestion. There is even some debate whether silica should be considered a macro nutrient as all plants use it to grow, plus it also help to deal with various types of stress and is a great PH up supplement. I use it from the very beginning of veg till near end of flower. My branches get much thicker than they normally would which translates into much more efficient nutrient transporting in the plant.
I also think you'd be better served to not do so many pure RO flushes. Doing so is an extreme and extreme environmental changes are stressful in and of themselves. If PPM spikes, add water till you hit your desired PPM. If PH swings down, add silica to bring it back up (if there is room in PPM to accommodate). If PH swings up, Flora Blend should be able to get it down. Use PH up and down when absolutely needed, but that's a last resort for me.
As rock wool is naturally closer to PH neutral, of course it will pull the PH to the base side of the scale. But we soak our cubes in our veg or bloom nutrients for 15 or so minutes prior to transplant. This aids to manipulate the cubes into the range we desire. PH will tend to walk away, but just make minor adjustments as you can so nothing adds up to any extremes.
Also, Capn told you to get beneficials involved. I cannot stress this enough. Everyone that grows Capn style knows the bennies are a major part of the success in this grow style. Vigorous roots translate to vigorous growth up top, plus the bennies will eat at some of the salts in the media and break them down into usable nutrients. Not to mention, when the tea is made with Ancient Forest, Heisenberg himself said the bennies cling to the AF and break it down into usable N which might aid in N deficiency.
Edit - Forgot to mention that if your meters are too close to the ballast, there might be an excess of electrical noise (EMI) in the vicinity of your meter causing irregular readings. If they are close in proximity, try to get them farther apart and see if that helps.
I also think you'd be better served to not do so many pure RO flushes. Doing so is an extreme and extreme environmental changes are stressful in and of themselves. If PPM spikes, add water till you hit your desired PPM. If PH swings down, add silica to bring it back up (if there is room in PPM to accommodate). If PH swings up, Flora Blend should be able to get it down. Use PH up and down when absolutely needed, but that's a last resort for me.
As rock wool is naturally closer to PH neutral, of course it will pull the PH to the base side of the scale. But we soak our cubes in our veg or bloom nutrients for 15 or so minutes prior to transplant. This aids to manipulate the cubes into the range we desire. PH will tend to walk away, but just make minor adjustments as you can so nothing adds up to any extremes.
Also, Capn told you to get beneficials involved. I cannot stress this enough. Everyone that grows Capn style knows the bennies are a major part of the success in this grow style. Vigorous roots translate to vigorous growth up top, plus the bennies will eat at some of the salts in the media and break them down into usable nutrients. Not to mention, when the tea is made with Ancient Forest, Heisenberg himself said the bennies cling to the AF and break it down into usable N which might aid in N deficiency.
Edit - Forgot to mention that if your meters are too close to the ballast, there might be an excess of electrical noise (EMI) in the vicinity of your meter causing irregular readings. If they are close in proximity, try to get them farther apart and see if that helps.
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- #99
Hey Skybound. thanks for reading. First off, I am not sure what a silica product would be. but i will look into it. As for the RO flushes. I think i read my plant wrong. what I thought was a nute burn I think now was a potassium deficiency, and giving straight RO did not fix it lol. the tips were browning and curling but after a few days I really started seeing brown spots. As this was my trial run with bag seed I have learned a few things that I will change for the next plant which is going to be Royal Queen Critical, followed by WW x big bud. As for beneficials, I cannot seem to buy the Ancient forrest in cannada. I would be open to any suggestions for replacement bennies. As for the meter, it is just a POS. I have started leaving it in one container to settle for the night and them pop it into the other tote the next day. I have been using ph up and down to control the ph. I had read about using the Florablend to drop ph, but I am not sure how much to use. Just keep adding every time I need to drop the ph?? how much of that stuff can the plant take?? The non scrog plant is getting near fininshed, I have started the flush but just got my loupe yesterday so I will be looking at trics today, the scrog plant is not producing anywhere near the trichs on the buds and there is still lots of white pistils so I am thinking it to be more sativa ish and may take a bit longer, but again, i will look at trics tonight on it too. That scrog plant is a beast though. that screen is about 42 x 42 inches and its basically full, hoping to pull over 10oz from it. I will get some updated pics up tonight of it...
Skybound
Well-Known Member
GH Silica Product
GH Flora Calculator
My White Widow/Skunk #1 plant produced almost no visible trichomes. I did take it down a week or two early, but had I let it fully finish, how much tric production would there really have been? Moot point though. I did find Sativas don't like high PPM nute solutions though on that run.
Flora Blend can be used sparingly to sub out PH down, but that's only good if you need to shift the solution one or two tenths, but if you have to shift whole numbers, at least the Flora Blend won't influence as much as PH down, so if you're near maxed out on Flora Blend and do not wish to exceed ml/gal, then definitely use PH down. Silica on the other hand is a very base solution and even at 2ml/gal, has brought my ph neutral RO water up to around 9.5 to 10.0. this works great b/c after I add CALiMAGic, Flora Blend and Gro/Micro/Bloom, my ph lands at about 7.5. To get 7.5 to 5.8, Flora Blend wouldn't be able to make that shift, so I'd add about 1.0-1.5 ml of PH down into the 5 gallon mix and that lands me around 5.6-5.9.
GH Flora Calculator
My White Widow/Skunk #1 plant produced almost no visible trichomes. I did take it down a week or two early, but had I let it fully finish, how much tric production would there really have been? Moot point though. I did find Sativas don't like high PPM nute solutions though on that run.
Flora Blend can be used sparingly to sub out PH down, but that's only good if you need to shift the solution one or two tenths, but if you have to shift whole numbers, at least the Flora Blend won't influence as much as PH down, so if you're near maxed out on Flora Blend and do not wish to exceed ml/gal, then definitely use PH down. Silica on the other hand is a very base solution and even at 2ml/gal, has brought my ph neutral RO water up to around 9.5 to 10.0. this works great b/c after I add CALiMAGic, Flora Blend and Gro/Micro/Bloom, my ph lands at about 7.5. To get 7.5 to 5.8, Flora Blend wouldn't be able to make that shift, so I'd add about 1.0-1.5 ml of PH down into the 5 gallon mix and that lands me around 5.6-5.9.