So I'm taking my first Brix readings of this grow. I'm fairly new to this concept and
@Gee64 has been helping me understand how this works and what you can decipher from the reading. I'm truly learning as I go so if any fellow Brixers have points, tips or corrections on the info I'm regurgitating please don't hesitate to post.
Elsa, very healthy and vibrant, her soil is drying much faster than her tent mate. Her Brix line is at 13% and slightly fuzzy.
Amelia, she is drooping slightly and I believe she is appearing over watered. I took her off the wicking base to allow her to dry out. She has a sharp line Brix at 7%.
So the most basic way to understand these numbers, is that the higher your Brix % is the healthier the plant and the fuzziness of the line is the calcium content. Gee explains it more in depth and more understandable in his GeeSpot thread but that's the most basic gist. You can visibly see the difference in the plants health and the Brix % reflects it.
13 is about the minimum that you want, as below 13 and bugs start to appear, or at least the potential is there for it. The one at 7 does look overly wet.
If you have good light and good mineral content, brix really comes down to 5 things. Carbon, oxygen, calcium, phosphorus, and microbes/fungii.
Start with calcium, because if it's correct then phosphorus intake increases and oxygen gets into the roots better.
I would definitely give them a shot of calmag, the 7 more so, but be careful. You don't want to give them too much at once.
Myself I put a half cup of prilled dolomite in a quart jar, fill it with water, shake the daylights out of it, then add it to my watering can 1 tablespoon at a time until it is about 80ppm, then water like normal with it.
You are far better off to water 3 times in a row with it than to water once at 240ppm. Too much at once will fry some leaves.
That will increase plant calcium and increase tilth in the soil, which increases soil O2 intake.
If the other is 13 then your mix is likely strong enough so I wouldn't do anything else yet, other than let them dry down to proper moisture content. Then give them another brix test and go from there.
I find that with Gaia and proper watering and calcium, 14-17 is pretty common if you start with 3 cups prilled dolomite, 1 cup oyster shell flour, and 1 cup prilled gypsum per 20 gallons of soil, and let the calciums cook for 2 weeks before you add the ammendments to cook in.
It should be an easy tweak to get that 7 to 13 like the other, and calcium falls out the bottom of the pot if it's too wet, so start there.