FelipeBlu's Auto Jack & Kryptonite, PSMini LED, Root Pouch, Recipe 420

Thanks Ptero!

On Jackie, I think the early light training helped. I lightly dug down, and the root mass seems slightly more developed on the other side of the rock. Almost like she’s preparing to grow in that direction.
 
Looking good FelipeBlu, she's responding great to the LST. I try to top all my autos if their happy and healthy. They always respond great and it don't bother them. If my autos are not thriving and doing very good then I don't top, just leave them be cause they may stress. I like autos though cause they can finish fast and yield huge...️
 
here's my lemon amnesia directly under the minI. shes at 16 days into flower... (also under 400hps)
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The PAR reading at 12 inches directly below the center of the Mini is a crazy 1400 PAR!!!! I have created a thread in which I listed my PAR readings at 12 inches, 18 inches and at 30 inches. In it I took reading directly down from the corners of the fixture and also from the middle front and back and also from the four corners at each distance. You might find it interesting.
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This is my current height as recommended by Perfect Sun for the first weeks adjustment period.
 
Thanks Bro. Those numbers ARE crazy! This was the new Quantum meter, calibrated in front of you, right?

The screen idea from Shed seems to be working well. I haven’t seen any more leaf damage, and the leaves are still turning back towards the light. The temp is also 1 degree cooler behind the screen. I think Neil’s advice to transition for 7 days is good. This little light is powerful!
 
thanks good to know those numbers. I heard that blue leds can trick par meters?? anyone know if there is any truth to that or is it just Internet opinion???
plants are looking great... I think ur doing the right thing with mini move it down slow and if there's no stress lower some more next day. I got mine closer than recommended distance for plants stage without any problems. little at time tho.
 
Thanks Slinks. At this point, I think I’m going to leave the screen up until 7 days, removing for short periods during the day. Sort of simulating the bright sun occasionally breaking through some cloud cover. After a week, I’ll try leaving the screen off, at the same light height, and see how they respond.
 
Day 17 for the Kryptonite. LST continues with additional tension to keep her growing in the right direction.

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Jackie keeps pushing out the 3rd set on her Day 11. Weight was back down, so I watered with pH-adjusted (6.8) water, with 2ml/l ProteKt and Gro, and 4ml/l Alaskan kelp juice. No photo right now - perhaps later.
 
This reminds me to share something I do once in a while. I usually adjust the pH to somewhere in the 6.4 to 6.6 range. I’ve measured the pH of the runoff, and noticed that, for my soil mix at least, it is typically 0.6 to 0.8 lower than what’s going in. So every other watering, I put in a 6.8 or 6.9 pH. It comes out in the low 6s, and I believe a gradient through the soil is created, from top to bottom, of lowering pH. This unlocks various concentrations of ions from the minerals in the soil, and the plant’s root system can then seek out and utilize whatever is needed. I welcome comments on this.

I don’t know to whom this image should be attributed, so please forgive me if I’m stepping on any toes:

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LST looks great and I love the colors on the rock. Whatever you're feeding it is bringing out some nice purples ;)

Ha! :laughtwo: For anyone who is interested (unlikely), that rock is a hematite/bornite-coated quartz crystal from Graves Mountain quarry, in Lincoln Co., Georgia.
 
Dunno about layering soil and how it affects pH, but I do know that runoff does not indicate soil pH. Soil pH can only be determined by a slurry test. A tablespoon of soil in 8 ounces of distilled water. Stir every 15 minutes for an hour, then let it sit for another hour. Then test. You can't raise or lower soil pH with nutrients.

Thanks for your thoughts Shed. I have one of those soil test kits. I’m not sure about changing the soil pH, but as the water leaches ions out of the minerals in the soil on it’s way through the pot, the surface tension of the soil particles lower in the pot retains moisture with various concentrations of ions for the roots to exploit. I bet if one sampled the water at about mid-pot, it would probably contain about half the ppm of the runoff from the bottom, maybe less if one doesn’t water to 5-10% runoff every time.

Maybe I’m all wet :rofl: , but I think if the pH going in is 7.0, and 6.0 coming out, there must be a pH gradient, and if the plant needs a nutrient that is best available where the pH is 6.2, then the roots will find it.

Disclaimers:
1. I am a rock scientist, not a plant scientist.
2. Whether the plant actually does what I imagine is pure speculation.
3. I normally operate in a fact-based mode, so just believing in something puts me out of my element.
 
Nutrient water should always be in the pH range you want to hit, because the roots are taking up the nutrients in the water. Roots can't eat from dry soil right? But the soil pH can be different from the water pH. I have to say I have never seen pH in at 7 and out at 6. Either way, that's the pH of the runoff, not the soil. Do a slurry test (no kit needed ;)) and see what you get for each of your soils if you have any left. Most good potting soils are pH'd to 6.7-7.0 I believe.

Yes on the PPM (halfway through the soil = half the PPM on its way out), though the accuracy of your runoff PPM will depend on the quantity of runoff. A trickle is not accurate.

Disclaimer:
1. I am not any type of scientist.
 
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