Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

Well $700 later I have everything ordered except the small stuff like the pots, wire, screws ect. I'm also inclined to wire in a multimeter and still debating on the Buck styled control panel or just mounting it all on the frame but my frame will be modeled after his only 40"x20".

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You can get 12x12 box for $20 on amazon.
 
In that case before I go spend the cash, are the thermal pads worth it or should I just use thermal paste?

I use MG thermal paste. Good up to 250 degrees. One $10 bottle does 150 COBs.
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Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

I've only ever used Artic Silver while installing cpu heatsinks but I'll track down a bottle of the MG and try not to pay $20 shipping haha

If you can get arctic white use it. The backs of the Vero are aluminum and arctic silver grey may react due to the oxides present. The engineer at Bridgelux said the white non electrically conductive pastes are better. I asked why the company youtube video shows them using arctic silver (grey). He didn't have an answer. Lol.

I use the MG because it's made in Canada and works well without oxides.
 
If you can get arctic white use it. The backs of the Vero are aluminum and arctic silver grey may react due to the oxides present. The engineer at Bridgelux said the white non electrically conductive pastes are better. I asked why the company youtube video shows them using arctic silver (grey). He didn't have an answer. Lol.

I use the MG because it's made in Canada and works well without oxides.
I ordered a bottle for $13, free shipping lol
 
I have done a few Citizen builds. I just need to know what a CLU guy would run the 038-1206 at. There's a guy on my page where I post my vids arguing with me. He thinks he can run it at 1300 even though the test currant on the chip is 540mA. He thinks he can run it at absolute max currant. Lol.
 
Fanleaf:

I got the meters installed today; they work as advertised. Now I have verified an issue I have known about but could not describe. I think it may be the 100K pots but let me describe what is going on. Currently I have only two drivers running cobs. They are on the same 20A electrical circuit. One dims somewhat linear and the other dims to 7 watts or 198 watts nothing in between? It affects the first driver a lot as I try to dim it so there is no way to balance them. I did not think that these Meanwell drivers HLG-185H-C1400B were supposed to dim down to 7 watts? they both work fine at full speed although one is a little lower in watts as you will see in the picture. The one with the lower watts is the one that does not dim properly. Have you run into this before?

The third (bottom) meter is tracking two non-dimmable Roleadro LED fixtures I am using until I build out the rest of the cobs and add a third driver. It is on a second 20A circuit that is switched on when power is applied to the first two drivers via a ssr-25AA. I will most likely keep the Roleadros in the room permanently. I am using them now to incubate my latest beans. Two of each Fast Buds Girl Scout Cookies Auto, Green Crack Auto and Zambeza Blueberry Auto.

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Ok so I am quoting my own post because this never really drew any comments.

I got the new 100k pots, tested them and threw 6 straight away into the trash. 4 were in spec. I installed a new pot on the troubled driver and at full 100K resistance the driver only puts out 36W. So I cut the pot out of the circuit (infinite resistance) and whala I get 198W.

I suspect that this is a defective driver. Have any posters to this thread had a problem like this in the past?

I got the driver @mousers but it is part of an active grow so probably have to buy one then return this one later or I can just use it without the dimming - not ideal but doable.

What do you guys think?
 
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