DWC Bubbler Grow Tent First Attempt

o my bad weedy uh no there just regular dwc buckets.. ive had these for awhile

i was initially going to make a big Recirculating DWC bucket system so i put ebb and flow fittings in the bottom of them so that the water would flow OUT of the bottom and i have 2 small 1/4'' holes in the top but 1/4'' tubing to bring the water IN... but now im just going to use them for dwc

so since they dont have "plugs" for 1 1/2'' holes in buckets (lol) i just put the ebb and flow fitting in and attached an elbow with clear tubing heading straight up to the lid.. this is gonna help me out cuz i have a marked line on it where the water should be so i can tell when it gets low without crackin em open (granted i make it that far.. ive changed my res like every 3 days since birth! lol)

so in short, if the fuzzy suds come back and ph continues to skyrocket, this here will at least cut out the variable that LIGHT is entering the res.. which is honestly what i think is happening.. now does what i think mean anything in reality?.. probably not.. hope for the best tho, its a definate learning experience

thanks for all your help guys, spec. butcher and weedy for stickin around ha +rep
 
<sigh>... first of all andy, i appreciate you dedicating some time to this, wow

unfortunately, i just spent the past hour preparing my new setup, which i JUST finished..

if what you say is true about carrying stuff over, then its gonna die simply b/c ill let it, but being that i just spent all this time and am so proud of my probably pointless work, im going to at least give it a shot

i soaked the air stones and let them run in plain distilled water for an hour to try n rid of anything on them.. shouldve used some sort of disinfectant in there with it tho now that i think about it..

cleaned the new black buckets. when i made the new solution, instead of using the same measuring cup, i used their own caps and just went by "capfuls" which fortunately worked, got my ppm to about 350 , which is where i want it.. before i used the same measuring cup for everything and a pipette for everything.. this is probably somewhere in the "completely stupid" range, but i guess this is a learning situation..

i straight up cut the sections of the air tubes that ever even touched the water and re-attached to the air stones, one disc in each bucket.

and when i took the plants from the old res to the new one, i put them in a bowl of plain distilled and kind of "bobbed" them up n down in it to rinse all the crud from that res off em.. which actually seemed to work pretty well.. however i only put hygrozyme in one tub and i marked it.. which will make this a lil experiment (at least itll be worth something)

if pH continues to rise, which it probably will cuz youre probably right... i didnt even think about a fungal infection, just bacteria... then im just going to kill these plants off, i have seeds going.

ill buy new airstones since they were cheap too, wish i woulda just done that now <lol damn>

again thanks dude, i cant tell you how much this helps me.. growroom-wise and straight up confidence that im ACTUALLY going to harvest Something Someday.. its people like you that makes this site Great mr. botwin
 
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A
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B
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k so i gotta few questions for you andy sir:

1. now ive got 2 buckets.. how would one check the pH of both of them without dipping the pen straight from one bucket to the other?.... i mean, i certainly cant afford another pen thats for sure

2. anytime i clean something, should i use a peroxide solution then?

3. i use the black duct tape to seal off light, which i think for right now under flouros, i shouldnt have an issue with heat and glue.. and my idea was hopefully later under HID the plants will be tall enough that the light wont heat the glue up enough to release any gasses... good idea tho, never occurred to me (i'dve blamed the tent! haha)


And for the record, as of this morning, they both jumped right back up for sure... but so did pH.. last night when i made the res it was at 5.6 this morning it was at 6.0... im stubbornly going to just chalk it up to the watever was on the net pots and air stones was a higher ph and it was just settling once i put it in there at 6.0... ill check again later and if its bad news, like i said ive got seeds started

thanks again andy youre a tremendous help brother.. wish i could rep you! ill keep you posted, be back in 7hrs for the results
 
man, andy put a lot of effort into that post. amazing post bro.

I pretty much agree with him on everything except for killing them maybe. it would be a lot easier to tell what the best advice would be if i could peak around the root mass and see what the roots looked like better. lol.

there are some pretty nice products out there that you can add to aid but my advice is flush, flush, flush first. umm what? FLUSH.

ok here are some things about bacteria and fungus that is needed to know, in order to know whats going on in your res.

Fungi — the plural of fungus - are distinguished from bacteria by their size and the fact that they have cells with distinct organs, like cell nuclei and mitochondria, the food-manufacturing cells in plants.

They are scientifically divided into three categories: yeasts, molds and mushrooms. All thrive in damp conditions. Unfortunately, drying out your garden by not watering for a week will not kill them, as fungi have a remarkable ability to survive drought in spore form (a simple, reproductive structure).

Fungi are a serious plant problem, producing diseases like mildew and rust, but they also have a beneficial side. In the roots of plants, they form mycorrhizal, or symbiotic, relationships, helping plants take up nutrients from the water and defending against other, harmful fungi and insects. This makes them useful as biological (rather than chemical) weapons because chemical fungicides wipe out both bad and good fungi.

since you are growing DWC, if you do not add the beneficials, they will not get these benefits, but bad ones somehow always seem to get in there. bastards.

Garden stores sell fungicides, but remember when using them that they can be lethal, both to humans and other, beneficial fungi. If improperly used, they can even kill the plants they are meant to help. Wear gloves and safety glasses, cover your arms and other exposed skin, mix the formula precisely as the manufacturer directs, and mark, safely store, or dispose of all containers used to mix fungicide. Do not use cooking utensils unless you plan to throw them away afterward. Washing will not remove all residue; dishwashers spread the residue. Wash off any spray on your skin under the garden hose, and again inside,with soap .

There are some 'safe' fungicides - like neem oil - sold as organic fungicides, and organic gardeners swear by them. Overall, they require more applications and are not as immediately effective as chemical fungicides. The advantage is they will not kill you. If you have the time and patience, by all means use them. Another interesting fungicide is one part cow's milk (non-pasteurized) in 10 parts water. Another is a coffee solution, one part very black coffee to 10 parts water. You can also use baking soda (one tbsp. per gallon), a drop of mild detergent like Ivory (make sure there are no additives), and a drop of vegetable oil to bind it to the leaves. You can also use white vinegar (1:3) in water. This probably works because vinegar alters pH, and pH is a significant factor in plant disease.

anyways, andy is right that there is a pont that you can get to when your plant just wont die, but it wont grow either because it was so stressed out, or has no real root structure to support it, but weed is pretty resilient, and can come back and be respectable pretty often. the choice is yours, but if you give them a nice bucket to sit in with the good guys instead of the bad ones, a nice res temp and a clean air stone, they should come back with a vengence.
 
sorry andy, i posted that before i saw the last two posts. i was on the 2'nd to last page, oops.

kinda covered a little ground you already touched on. . .

again i agree with most of your post andy, except on the hygrozyme. It is in fact compatible with peroxide as long as it is in low concentration. hygrozyme is the only enzyme product i know of that claims it can be used in conjunction with h2o2.
 
man you guys rock! mr. pat sayjak and mr. Weeds - you guys kick ass

k so WOF ima show you the roots here... plant A's roots are kinda brownish in comparison to the pearly whites of plant B... plus you can see theres no bubbles in the buckets.. well in B's you can but not A's


A's Roots
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B's Roots
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i put frozen 20oz of water into their buckets today which probably helped to some good growth today.. by B anyway... A is @#$%ed! lol.. i think ima pull it tonight .. heres the update

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^^^^ look at this plant.. i CANT kill this.. ive been waiting for a good healthy plant like this since damn day 1!... at least it looks healthy, and yes andy ill prolly dump a good bit of acid in there b4 i decide to hack it, but i wont try and use the whole bottle.. when i get halfway ill kill it off lol but seriously......... ---->
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and um.. is this normal?
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ha!

so anyway... its funny that the plant without the grozyme's roots look fresher n whiter than the one that IS using grozyme ya?.. granted that one is haggard in comparison but still...

ima hang in there, ill keep you guys posted, im probably going to hack A tonight or tomorrow and get these germed ones in some rockwool n get um under that light as well

thanks again guys you guys are the Shit, seriously... glad to be here
 
i don't really know andy, I don't really use h2o2. a long long time ago i used too much and killed a crop and ever since i don't use it. I use a mild soap when cleaning after harvest, and run hygrozyme and clearex at res changes.

i don't use it because i am adding beneficials to my res, and don't want to kill them. I could run it at a res change to sterilize the res and medium, and then add the benes after that if i ran into trouble. but i havent done that yet.

the actual bullet on the bottle states

compatible with h2o2 in low ppm. trenchant in facilitating cleansing of hydroponic/rockwool/coco/soil containerized mediums and equipment

so that sounds to me like they should only be used in conjunction for a vigorous flush of your entire system. maybe they figure for a flush, there is enough time for both to do their work before one renders the other ineffective? just a guess.

i will claim some ignorance here too but for what it's worth, this is what hygrozyme says:

As Hygrozyme is the only known market solution that can be used in conjunction with hydrogen peroxide in a ppm of 1 - 2% solution, some operators use this combination to clean, sterilize, and oxygenate roots.

* Use from beginning to end of grow cycle: 2 - 2.5 ml per 1L
* Breakdown of dead root matter to rejuvenate soil: 2.5 - 3.75 ml per 1L
* Keep roots cleaner in hydroponic greenhouse systems: 2 - 2.5 ml per 1L
* For larger root systems: 2 - 2.5 ml per 1L
* Expedite growth right after seed germination: 1.5 ml per 1L
* Used as a foliar wash to help stop the development of leaf borne diseases (i.e. powdery mildew) 1.5 ml per 1L
* 25-50% time saving (shorter growing cycles)

Hygrozyme is an organic, naturally derived, and sterilized enzymatic formula. The product is a natural "catalyst-cleaner-facilitator" aiding in the breakdown of dead organic matter. It is not systemic to plants. Its function is to help speed up the natural decomposition process and "unlock" complex energy for easier access to the plant.
 
odor,

B def looks nice! a not as good, but would still live abd grow imo, so you could prob save it if you wanted to.

hygrozyme wont kill anything (fungi or bacteria), its for maintaining a healthy root zone, not cleaning one. you could use h2o2 as per andy's advice, but i would defer to him on that as i don't use it.

there are also the chemicals i mentioned earlier. I have some neem oil, but i just use it for pests as a foliar spray.

the good news is B looks great, and as long as you don't share water between the two a won't effect b. when they shared a res you were at much greater danger.

but if you have seedlins ready to go, why not switch them out (after a good cleaning) it might end up finishing at or before A would due to the root problems slowing her down anyways.

also there is no need to top feed, might be good to flush with pure h2o, h2o2, hygrozyme, or some mixture there of, if you want to be on the safe side. but it isn't necessary. doesn't hurt either, unless you dont let it breathe ever.
 
well keep in mind my rw is like sticking out of my hydroton.. i didnt realize this was stupid when i did it unfortunately, so it gets bone dry... ive been keeping it moist, and now that its bone dry the plants beginning to droop again :/

Thanks for all the positive V I B E S WOF!
 
haha SS someday brother... right now, saving for more important things.. like a light and a filter and fans =D

butcher: right on man thas what i was thinkin too but still its sad to see.. thanks for checkin in dude!
 
yeah thas like 20 bucks right there.. im def gonna pay for one easy by the time this grows up thas for sure.. still tho.. light first
 
wish i was paying more attention, sorry bro, but looks like you have some awesome backup.
dont worry so much about the ph, if it were me I would just try to get the ph around 6, that is a good level where the plant can intake a good amount of water and a wide range of nutrients. as long as the ph level doesn't go over 7 you should be fine
and let the water level drop, even tho im in DWC I still water(top off) about every other or every 2 days. in your case they are small(they will be big soon) let the water drop where the roots aren't hanging in midair, keep them submerged some, you will have a giant root ball in no time and once that happens the fluctuations will be less
 
thanks musik! yep thats the idea right now.. the one plant just stopped growing altogether, the smaller shoots have grown maybe an inch since last pic but whatever, im just waitin for something a seed to pop, which its going to today, so ill be gettin that ready...

the other one tho is just Booming right now.. the roots all look like fish bones haha seriously.. theyre probably like 8in long or so and about 2in or 3in of em are submerged.. the ones that arent are the fish bone lookin things lol

ive tied it down and all the shoots are catching up to the main one ill put some pics up later tho.... how long do i have to wait before i take some clones from it?.....
 
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