Good stuff. I know the fresh aloe has some great properties that plants really like and I think aloe and yucca are related, so that would make sense.
Droughting and its medicinal effects in cannabis
- Thread starter Krissi Carbone
- Start date
ppm Charlie
Well-Known Member
I use fresh aloe on burns all the time - works great.
Nine Toed Hippie
Well-Known Member
Everyone should have a couple aloe plants around. Very cool plant. Great for cuts and burns.
NTH
ok,, good q's as mentioned,, i might have read more specific information on that idea of adjusting with alternate substrates in one of the other studies,, on ferting in veg,,
however,, i think i can pull this from his droughting study that might suggest what i was thinking,,
'In applying drought stress over extended periods, researchers generally aim to maintain constant levels of root zone WP, either through use of a solute-infused substrate (Charles et al., 1990; Van Der Weele et al., 2000) or by regulating soil/growing-substrate moisture content (Baher et al., 2002; Blanch et al., 2009; Manukyan, 2011; Nowak et al., 2010). This allows for long-term assessment of the drought stress response'
i read that as saying that in order to allow long term assessment (11 days?) one can use a substrate that will do it naturally or one can use an alternate substrate and adjust the watering technique to achieve the same result
just me tho,,
Thanks nivek! If that's the case then droughting in hydro becomes doable. It would take trial and error to figure out what level of drought gets you to a 50% reduction in LWA over 11 days though.
And in solid substrates, would this mean that we would somehow moisten the medium to make sure the LWA doesn't happen in a shorter time period? I'm wondering what your take is on how to make the 11 day/50% thing happen if it doesn't happen naturally. After all, Caplan just stopped watering.
my thinking about this issue as of this morning,, so you know i am a hempy grower so i am trying to figure this out for hempy,,
as i think you would agree, i might suggest that a cannabis plant 11 days from harvest uses a fair bit 'less' water already. quite a bit even depending
if i get a 3 day period between waterings on a healthy robust plant in flower then i am going to submit that i can get more than 3 days between waterings with 11 days left in flower
perhaps five and even maybe six.
if that is the case then perhaps if i plug the hole and i dont even need to drill a new one higher up,, just plug the hole,, and add a known amount of water 'extra' to the reservoir,, perhaps i can get up to ten days or so,,
my thinking this morning,, that is getting me close
maybe in full hydro, one simply frains the tank dowm over the ten days exposing more roots to the air as it goes till it runs out day ten and wilts day 11?
Definitely worth an experiment on a plant you can spare. It would be important to track the LWA change and see if it mirrors Caplan's, with not much in the first week and then blammo...50% droop!
ok,, i know i am all alone on the outside with this leaf droop thing,, the importance of it. or lack of importance in my case
the object of the experiment is to get a plant to lose moisture over time till it completely runs out of moisture and wilts
ya know what comes after wilt?? dead
i know what a wilting plant looks like,,
i've grown one
so i gotta get my hempy to completely run out of water day 10 and wilt day 11
we are basically bringing a plant back from the brink of death,, quite profound actually
Did that plant recover after you watered it?
it would have i bet,, it was a branch i cut off, no saving that,,
I think I disagree with the premise of giving it enough water to last 11 days. That would suggest it has access to water for the first 8 days, so where's the draught stress? I know in soil when there is water say in the bottom third of the pot, there is not much draught stress even though the top 2/3rds are dry, at least that is apparent.
It would seem to me that it might be better to do a more prolonged minor watering over those days. So, let it go dry and then only give it enough water for say half a day. Next day or maybe day after, same thing. So, never give it a full watering, just enough to remind it that there is still some water but it's dwindling fast.
This would prolong the draught stess over multiple days, but you don't have the 50% blammo in one day that ruins the entire process.
It would seem to me that it might be better to do a more prolonged minor watering over those days. So, let it go dry and then only give it enough water for say half a day. Next day or maybe day after, same thing. So, never give it a full watering, just enough to remind it that there is still some water but it's dwindling fast.
This would prolong the draught stess over multiple days, but you don't have the 50% blammo in one day that ruins the entire process.
can't agree more that that might be a better way to go,, for sure one of my ever growing list of options,, ever evolving as well
many thanks
but,, again, my thinking
in soil, from watered to dry,, the soil dries from top to bottom i might suggest,, exposing more roots to oxygen as moisture level lowers,, inducing the stress response
i kinda see the same story in hempy,, perhaps
I guess I don't see the draught stress in soil if there is still general moiture available. The roots in the top drier soil get a hit of O2, but since the water roots are still sitting in very moist soil I would think the plant sees it as business as usual. You ceratinly don't see any water stress (no wilting of leaves for instance) when the bottom third is still moist.
I think in soil at least, it is when all of the observable water is gone that things start to change. Yes, there is still some moisture in small pockets but the blanket water is gone. That, to me, would get noticed by the plant.
But, it will take some experimentation to try different theories.
Can I volunteer your plants??
Renaissance Man
Well-Known Member
Can somebody please show me what this LWA looks like? How is 50% measured?
If you look at page 3 of Caplan's paper (posted here) you can see the diagram. Measure from the branch to where the petiole attaches to the leaf when the plant has been watered, then track that angle until it has dropped by 50% of the original angle.
East Coast Marley420
Well-Known Member
How I droughted in an top feed, recirculating hydroponic system, with a 100% hydroton medium.
The first part is to select a branch/cola, that you can consistently take a photo of, from the same exact perspective each time. To accomplish this, I simply marked a spot on my scrog Frame (made with PVC), and the angle of the phone.
When I would sit my phone on the Frame, and point it at the chosen branch/cola, I had consistent photos of the same perspective of the selected branch/cola.
If you look at that cola, you can see it's isolated, and has nothing to rest against (wich would skew the measurements).
Next take the picture.
Download an app called Image Meter (I got it from playstore).
Open the photo within the app.
Measure from the branch to where the petiole attaches to the leaf.
You can zoom in, from within the app to click each point for the measurement for the Leaf Wilt Angle (LWA).
Be sure to remember exactly where you clicked for those three points, remember consistency is key!
Your first measurement should be done right shortly after a fertigation, so that the leaf is in its most turgid/rigid state.
Then stop the feed/fertigation going to that plant.
Continue to take photos using the above method until you have gotten to almost a 50% reduction in the LWA, or 50% of you turgid state. We want to get close, but not surpass 50% change of LWA (to my understanding).
I've attached a 2nd photo here showing the continued drought with the LWA changes.
Then resume fertigation.
Here's a bit of a gif I made showing it. The camera I had setup for the gif got moved at one point, but you can clearly see the plant wilting, and some of the recovery.
And that's it folks! Thanks to Maritimer for walking me through my first drought and his patience with everything that happened. The full read is here in my journal. My drought took roughly 4 days, using 10 Gallon buckets from The Bucket Company, with 100% hydroton inside the bucket.
The first part is to select a branch/cola, that you can consistently take a photo of, from the same exact perspective each time. To accomplish this, I simply marked a spot on my scrog Frame (made with PVC), and the angle of the phone.
When I would sit my phone on the Frame, and point it at the chosen branch/cola, I had consistent photos of the same perspective of the selected branch/cola.
If you look at that cola, you can see it's isolated, and has nothing to rest against (wich would skew the measurements).
Next take the picture.
Download an app called Image Meter (I got it from playstore).
Open the photo within the app.
Measure from the branch to where the petiole attaches to the leaf.
You can zoom in, from within the app to click each point for the measurement for the Leaf Wilt Angle (LWA).
Be sure to remember exactly where you clicked for those three points, remember consistency is key!
Your first measurement should be done right shortly after a fertigation, so that the leaf is in its most turgid/rigid state.
Then stop the feed/fertigation going to that plant.
Continue to take photos using the above method until you have gotten to almost a 50% reduction in the LWA, or 50% of you turgid state. We want to get close, but not surpass 50% change of LWA (to my understanding).
I've attached a 2nd photo here showing the continued drought with the LWA changes.
Then resume fertigation.
Here's a bit of a gif I made showing it. The camera I had setup for the gif got moved at one point, but you can clearly see the plant wilting, and some of the recovery.
And that's it folks! Thanks to Maritimer for walking me through my first drought and his patience with everything that happened. The full read is here in my journal. My drought took roughly 4 days, using 10 Gallon buckets from The Bucket Company, with 100% hydroton inside the bucket.
I was hoping you would post that.
I'm just sorry it took so long to postI was hoping you would post that.
Ok Here I am at 8 days ! Feeding tonight it is starting to list to one side and don’t want my main stem to split! “Or do I another post “ HaHa I just feel it’s time and I’ll learn as I go. Luv this place Thanks Krissi for starting this
