Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

SmokeyMcFly said:
I haven't phd the water that has gone into the highbrix soil only the water I was using in the straight pro-mix for the first couple weeks of their lives. Now that I look at the newest messed up leaves they don't even look like the first ones that were having problems right after transplant and I would bet it has more to do with bad air movement and them being crowded up against the side of the tent. The first ones had more yellowing. Anyway here are the pics.

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They look over watered. Give the roots a chance to form....let 'em dry out between waterings, to the point where they're just starting to wilt.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

SmokeyMcFly said:
Pro-mix isn't soil and should be phd just like any other soilless medium from what I have been told on here. I tried a watering or two without doing it to see if they really needed it and trust me they did NOT like it not being phd at all. Not needing to ph anymore was the biggest reason for me wanting to go with docs kit, well next to the amazing results that is.
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Who ever told you to "pH" Promix gave you bad advice. It is carefully designed with pH buffers in order to stabilize pH. They understand that people will be adding things to make their soil, so they provide a stable, balanced soiless medium as a starting point.

There is no reason to ever pH a 7 gallon pot of dirt. An entire bottle of pH down might move it a half point. All you do when you add phosphoric acid to a soil grow is increase P and throw the K:P ratio off.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, So since we are on the subject of soil and ph, i noticed that roots doesnt add anything for a buffer which is fine for me since im making my own soil. My question is do i even need to add dolomite lime if im using the 6/5/3? i assume the calcium acts as a buffer itself but i dont know how much.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks for the feedback. I will make sure to water them less often from now on. I think the diff in pot sizes is messing me up, the little pots always feel so light after dealing with the bigger ones.

I really don't want to get into the ph debate either. When I started my journal I had no intention of phing my water. Another staff writer on here advised me that I needed too and I haven't been having any issues with the plants that I am doing it too and like I said when I did not ph the water to see what would happen things started to get ugly pretty quickly so I went right back to phing them. I really dislike phing the water, its my least favorite part of growing, im just to lazy to be bothered with it tbh so I am glad I dont need to worry about it much longer. My non highbrix plants only have a couple weeks left on them so I don't want to change up what has been working well on them at this point. My water also reads 8.5 - 9 after a few days of aeration and seems to be very hard if that has anything to do with anything.

I will not and am not phing the highbrix kit water so no worries there :D
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BlazinThat said:
Hey Doc, So since we are on the subject of soil and ph, i noticed that roots doesnt add anything for a buffer which is fine for me since im making my own soil. My question is do i even need to add dolomite lime if im using the 6/5/3? i assume the calcium acts as a buffer itself but i dont know how much.
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Good question, bro. It's been awhile since I went over that stuff.

The 6/5/3 is basically "Hillbilly High Brix." It was my attempt at getting mineralized soil and it worked pretty damn well. Because you're adding all that limestone, along with the gypsum and SRP, the pH is pretty stable right around 6.5 and there's not much you can do to change it one way or the other.

Adding Dolomite on top of that wouldn't help at all with pH, but it would decrease calcium uptake in the plant, making it much harder to achieve high brix. I don't recommend Dolomite for anything. Limestone is much better.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Good question, bro. It's been awhile since I went over that stuff.

The 6/5/3 is basically "Hillbilly High Brix." It was my attempt at getting mineralized soil and it worked pretty damn well. Because you're adding all that limestone, along with the gypsum and SRP, the pH is pretty stable right around 6.5 and there's not much you can do to change it one way or the other.

Adding Dolomite on top of that wouldn't help at all with pH, but it would decrease calcium uptake in the plant, making it much harder to achieve high brix. I don't recommend Dolomite for anything. Limestone is much better.
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SCORE! Its nice knowing i dont have to buy anything else, most of what you tell me sinks in... eventually. 6/5/3 is the best thing to happen to my soil since i started growing, the difference it makes is amazing, i tell anyone i can about it.

EDIT: The reason i asked was because im taking 2 recipes plus what you taught me and getting them together since i got some extra cash. Im throwing out all the junk stuff so i can hone in on 1 repeatable recipe.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BlazinThat said:
SCORE! Its nice knowing i dont have to buy anything else, most of what you tell me sinks in... eventually. 6/5/3 is the best thing to happen to my soil since i started growing, the difference it makes is amazing, i tell anyone i can about it.

EDIT: The reason i asked was because im taking 2 recipes plus what you taught me and getting them together since i got some extra cash. Im throwing out all the junk stuff so i can hone in on 1 repeatable recipe.
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Sounds great bro. If you think mineralized soil is great, you need to try High Brix soil. It's another order of magnitude better.

Regarding your soil mix, please don't add Greensand and make sure you keep the potassium way down. Try to use ferts like 2-5-0 and such.

Lots of people ruin their mineralized soil with potassium. Be careful with kelp products and compost too. Kelp products with have NPK on them. But most compost is too high in K and will lower brix.

And don't bother foliar feeding. You should have some really nice plants.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Sounds great bro. If you think mineralized soil is great, you need to try High Brix soil. It's another order of magnitude better.

Regarding your soil mix, please don't add Greensand and make sure you keep the potassium way down. Try to use ferts like 2-5-0 and such.

Lots of people ruin their mineralized soil with potassium. Be careful with kelp products and compost too. Kelp products with have NPK on them. But most compost is too high in K and will lower brix.

And don't bother foliar feeding. You should have some really nice plants.
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Hopefully when my situation eases up a bit i will try HB, till then im kinda stuck watching :(. Good thing you said something about the potassium because i just bought some bone meal and its 4-12-0, i can still return it if i find something lower, unfortunately i bought most of my other supplies already so im stuck with what they are until i run out, but i will check to see where i can make healthier choices, no greensand here only azomite. Thanks for all the great info like always.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BlazinThat said:
Hopefully when my situation eases up a bit i will try HB, till then im kinda stuck watching :(. Good thing you said something about the potassium because i just bought some bone meal and its 4-12-0, i can still return it if i find something lower, unfortunately i bought most of my other supplies already so im stuck with what they are until i run out, but i will check to see where i can make healthier choices, no greensand here only azomite. Thanks for all the great info like always.
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Your potassium(K) is already 0, no?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BlazinThat said:
Hopefully when my situation eases up a bit i will try HB, till then im kinda stuck watching :(. Good thing you said something about the potassium because i just bought some bone meal and its 4-12-0, i can still return it if i find something lower, unfortunately i bought most of my other supplies already so im stuck with what they are until i run out, but i will check to see where i can make healthier choices, no greensand here only azomite. Thanks for all the great info like always.
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Bone meal is perfect: N is 4, that's nitrogen. P is 12, that's Phosphorus, and K is zero. K is potassium. Careful on the Azomite too. It's high in sodium. Just a pinch.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
They look over watered. Give the roots a chance to form....let 'em dry out between waterings, to the point where they're just starting to wilt.
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Doc is spot on with this, I have also see the same thing on my leaves of past grows and I found out that the roots only filled about 1/3 of the pots they were in. I was watering too frequently and not allowing the roots to feed themselves and sprawl out through the soil. I now water just at the first sign of the leaves starting to droop slightly.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Bone meal is perfect: N is 4, that's nitrogen. P is 12, that's Phosphorus, and K is zero. K is potassium. Careful on the Azomite too. It's high in sodium. Just a pinch.
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I just started using fish bone meal in my soil mix this last grow and so far my plants are hitting 18-24 brix in Veg with this in the soil mix.. It has a very high calcium content as well I think like 24% if I am correct. When using it though, I reduced the amount of SRP and CaCO3 to help balance out the CA and the P
 
I was going to ask you this in your led thread but didn't want to clog it up, but any chance the lab might be willing to help you pay for testing? I know how they feel about everything but in the end it would benefit them(I only assume) to have even more to back up there great work. I know medical is going through their state legislator soon and that might open business for them with out worrying if it passes. Although I don't know how they feel even if it does pass :/
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Purple Cadillac, Tahoe OG in "dumbed down soil" some pics of premium, 2-3 months cured meds.

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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Beautiful work Doc!!!
 
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