Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Gazoo said:
Quick question, Is it a good idea to re-foliar with Clear RO after BRIX to help
clean the left over residue ?

EDITED for additional question

If OK, can/should it be done soon after the leafs dry or wait 24 hrs ?
Is more absorbed once re-activated with the RO ? or simply washed away
Click to expand...

I do not think you should do this. Just spray with Brix or DeStress and leave 'em be.
 
Gazoo said:
Quick question, Is it a good idea to re-foliar with Clear RO after BRIX to help
clean the left over residue ?

EDITED for additional question

If OK, can/should it be done soon after the leafs dry or wait 24 hrs ?
Is more absorbed once re-activated with the RO ? or simply washed away
Click to expand...

Dunno if your having a lot of residue. I have a few leaves here and there that have some white residue (not pm) and I personally let it be. I also (just me) rarely use destress, my current run has had no destress, only brix and I just started WA10x. Point is I am not using so much foliar so I then have less residue.
 
Gaffle said:
Dunno if your having a lot of residue. I have a few leaves here and there that have some white residue (not pm) and I personally let it be. I also (just me) rarely use destress, my current run has had no destress, only brix and I just started WA10x. Point is I am not using so much foliar so I then have less residue.
Click to expand...

Yes I think you are on the right track I may be using to much. I will decrease the amount sprayed :)

I noticed the film left and thought, Hay I can do a rinse to remove it. Reason being
I want the leafs to get all the light they can work with:) THEN I thought wait maybe
not a good idea since I am now reactivating the residue and not sure if the Residue
is good to reactivate ?

So new plan, Less sprayed BRIX's & NO RO Rinse :)
 
Gazoo said:
Yes I think you are on the right track I may be using to much. I will decrease the amount sprayed :)

I noticed the film left and thought, Hay I can do a rinse to remove it. Reason being
I want the leafs to get all the light they can work with:) THEN I thought wait maybe
not a good idea since I am now reactivating the residue and not sure if the Residue
is good to reactivate ?

So new plan, Less sprayed BRIX's & NO RO Rinse :)
Click to expand...
Yea you def don't need it as you'll be washing the buds at harvest. I should have added I do mine in veg to help with humidity, not removing residue. Bud washing will take care of all that.
 
Doc, during veg I had a plant that looked like major shit. Both plants were in 2nd run soil from seed. My 2nd watering once the seedling grew was also plain water, and there is where my problem began. Both plants had what I thought was a calcium def (dunno if that can happen in kit soil but fans looked similar), the fans yellowed and curled and node growth almost stopped. I ended up giving my other plant GE back to back, which stopped the progression. The plant with problems had a plain water at that same time. Patience and a 7gal pot put everything back on track. I did not do 1/4 trans with every water, just plain water. I also only did GE during veg. So, on to my question...

Which product feeds soil biota, GE or Trans? I'm sure the answer could be both, but does one do more for plants and one works with microbes?
 
Gaffle said:
Doc, during veg I had a plant that looked like major shit. Both plants were in 2nd run soil from seed. My 2nd watering once the seedling grew was also plain water, and there is where my problem began. Both plants had what I thought was a calcium def (dunno if that can happen in kit soil but fans looked similar), the fans yellowed and curled and node growth almost stopped. I ended up giving my other plant GE back to back, which stopped the progression. The plant with problems had a plain water at that same time. Patience and a 7gal pot put everything back on track. I did not do 1/4 trans with every water, just plain water. I also only did GE during veg. So, on to my question...

Which product feeds soil biota, GE or Trans? I'm sure the answer could be both, but does one do more for plants and one works with microbes?
Click to expand...

Both feed the soil....just in a different way. You need both.

If the roots and soil aren't happy together the plants won't grow. It happens every now and then, but mostly they do great.
 
Doc Bud said:
Both feed the soil....just in a different way. You need both.

If the roots and soil aren't happy together the plants won't grow. It happens every now and then, but mostly they do great.
Click to expand...

I was so pissed off at my plants that I quit doing journal posts and all that. It was like a stick with 5 nodes and no branches, just yellow curled fans. The way it came back is highly impressive, testament to DBHBB. Patience helped as well. The idea of fixing shit by dumping more and more stuff in the soil has exited my thinking process.
 
Gaffle said:
I was so pissed off at my plants that I quit doing journal posts and all that. It was like a stick with 5 nodes and no branches, just yellow curled fans. The way it came back is highly impressive, testament to DBHBB. Patience helped as well. The idea of fixing shit by dumping more and more stuff in the soil has exited my thinking process.
Click to expand...

I wonder why it did that?

Possible causes:

poor distribution of minerals in the Promix when preparing for the cooking process
Forgot to use Roots!
Cold concrete slab
Soil was stored in a very hot environment and formed pathogens
Random, unknown cause

About 1 out of every 50 plants doesn't quite comply with the rules in my garden. Usually they can be fixed, more often than not I just cull them.
 
medmanmike said:
Doc, do "double strength" drenches follow the .5-1ml of drench per gallon of soil? So, double strength would be 1 - 2ml per gallon of soil?
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Yep. Exactly. When we're dunking most of the water stays in the bucket....so double strength works in that application.
 
Doc Bud said:
I wonder why it did that?

Possible causes:

poor distribution of minerals in the Promix when preparing for the cooking process
Forgot to use Roots!
Cold concrete slab
Soil was stored in a very hot environment and formed pathogens
Random, unknown cause

About 1 out of every 50 plants doesn't quite comply with the rules in my garden. Usually they can be fixed, more often than not I just cull them.
Click to expand...

Hey Doc... What temp range is considered to hot for soil storage? Cause I have a feeling I may need to move mine.
 
Doc Bud said:
Usually they can be fixed, more often than not I just cull them.
Click to expand...

This was my junked plant, I would say it is in the "fixed" category. Glad I didn't cull it!

IMG_20170712_200433623.jpg
IMG_20170712_200455695.jpg


Happy hump day all. As usual, puff puff pass!
 
Nice save Gaffle! Looks awesome! :high-five:
 
dajerm119 said:
Hey Doc... What temp range is considered to hot for soil storage? Cause I have a feeling I may need to move mine.
Click to expand...

If it's in a dark can and is kept at 85 degrees or more for a few weeks, pathogens can form in the soil. From the directions:

Getting Started

Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.

Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered but able to breathe for one month. A thick rubber trash can with lid on is perfect. Avoid sealed containers that do not exchange air and uncovered containers. We want sweat and condensation.

Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.

Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!
Click to expand...
 
Gaffle said:
This was my junked plant, I would say it is in the "fixed" category. Glad I didn't cull it!

IMG_20170712_200433623.jpg
IMG_20170712_200455695.jpg


Happy hump day all. As usual, puff puff pass!
Click to expand...

Once those roots get hooked up, everything else comes along! Very nice save.
 
Hello knowledgeable folks, I have a question regarding PM and growing in the kit. When reading about the kit it says the high brix soil naturally prevents pests, does this include powdery mildew prevention as well? I only ask because it became a problem during the last 3 weeks of my previous grow even though there was plenty of airflow, and my rh was within 30-45. I ended up harvesting early, and doing a bud wash. Anyways, the entire growing environment has been sterilized and I want to prevent this from happening again. Thanks!
 
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