Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I've definitely been looking into this. Read the Bloomberg report a few weeks back as well. I'm just so sketchy when it comes to penny stocks. I'm not sure who I would invest with. I was thinking more of the pharmaceutical side. Like ways of delivering CBDs to patients and such as I think theses companies stand a better chance of survival. But really I just don't know much about stocks at hand a point. I need more research and input.


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I'm not exactly pulling the trigger right now, but most of these companies don't come anywhere close to the buds....all are developed around the industry....even Warren Buffet is involved with some of the companies....I have no crystal ball but the evidence is very compelling....
 
Companies that sell cannabis infused convenience foods are a good bet.

I'm with you there, Doc.....the market for cannabis pet food is wide open as well....I'm all over that one!
 
Cool. Please keep us informed what they find. RE PM: it's systemic. The spots you see on the leaves is the same organism....it spread throughout the plant. It's easily combated using the sulfur.

Doc, I received a report back from the lab for Mold and Pests for two of the three tests I requested. Briefly, the microbial load resulted within normal limits, <10000 cfu/g for Total yeast and mold, and <100000 cfu/g for total aerobic content. I'm expecting the third test, PCR quantification of the total yeast and mold, later today. I'll give a full report then.

Regarding your comment of PM being "systemic". I'm assuming this means it's in the plants "bloodstream", and the roots, and the soil. Yes? I'm thinking this means I'll have to replace all my soil that the plants were in. Please tell me there's a way to save the soil! (I've already remixed the soil, added Ammendment, EWC, etc. ).

Regarding a sulfer burn. Any recommendations on a unit? Are all sulfer pebbles the same? Would the sulfer permeate the soil in its cooking bins? Soil in pots? Will the sulfer cause any problems with electrical devices, i.e. Lights, fans, humidifier? I'm thinking I would put everything that I use for growing in the room: tools, pots, including opening cupboard doors, and fumingating the hell out of it (6 hours as you've said).

If anyone who's done this has any advice, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.
 
Doc, I received a report back from the lab for Mold and Pests for two of the three tests I requested. Briefly, the microbial load resulted within normal limits, <10000 cfu/g for Total yeast and mold, and <100000 cfu/g for total aerobic content. I'm expecting the third test, PCR quantification of the total yeast and mold, later today. I'll give a full report then.

Regarding your comment of PM being "systemic". I'm assuming this means it's in the plants "bloodstream", and the roots, and the soil. Yes? I'm thinking this means I'll have to replace all my soil that the plants were in. Please tell me there's a way to save the soil! (I've already remixed the soil, added Ammendment, EWC, etc. ).

Regarding a sulfer burn. Any recommendations on a unit? Are all sulfer pebbles the same? Would the sulfer permeate the soil in its cooking bins? Soil in pots? Will the sulfer cause any problems with electrical devices, i.e. Lights, fans, humidifier? I'm thinking I would put everything that I use for growing in the room: tools, pots, including opening cupboard doors, and fumingating the hell out of it (6 hours as you've said).

If anyone who's done this has any advice, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

I've done it, and have coached others.

Seal up your LED lights in plastic, or remove them from the grow room. Sulfuric acid doesn't mix with circuit boards to well.

Put all your containers, clones, vegging plants and plants in early bloom into the room.
Get rH up to 90% and keep it there during the sulfur treatment.
Run the sulfur burner for 6 hours. Vent the room, put everything back, etc.


No more PM.

Your soil is going to be just fine. Don't worry about it.
 
Glad the island treated all you guys well. Good to see DBHB shining there too. ;)

Here are a few random shots of mine right now. The flowering tray is on day 35. The 3 in the veg cabinet are the same age, but the bigger plants were taken as clones (some speed difference there eh?)

tray8.jpg

branch21.jpg

branch12.jpg

veg_cab.jpg


cheers all
 
It's Laniakea. It's a strain created by curso (an old member here) who crossed a super-fast male of Jack Skellington with his own OPP. I feminized some seeds last year and this is my 4th round with them. The phenotype I cloned is a NLD variety that has proven to be quite potent and very consistent. I've run it next to some ghost train haze last 2 rounds and wanted to keep some variety thus the rare dankness 501st OG in the cup.
 
In a word, No. Can't speak for everyone, but my temps dropped to 60 this winter and everything seemed to stop. That was just night temp, days were 78 with lights on. Spent a couple weeks fooling with small heater and timer. When I finally got it above 65 at night is about when growth started to pick up again. I have it at 71 minimum now.



About $50-75/month for 50 sq.ft. area is what it costs me for electricity, almost as much as lights. It adds up but probably cheaper than AC in an attic in summer.

so the issue is that the tent is located in the attic which is a pretty big space. Off top of my head, maybe a 600 square ft. That being said here are some follow up questions to your heater suggestion:

1. What size heater should I get if I decide to go this route? The attic space is pretty big, so I'm assuming I'd have to get a big heater in order to keep the entire attic space heated at a minimum of 70 degrees.

2. Can I just get away with getting a smaller heater to save $ on electricity? Here's my thinking: if I get a small heater and place it directly outside of the tent near the open slits at the bottom that should suffice? The idea is not to heat up the entire attic space, but to simply provide heat or warm air into the tent. Since my exhaust fan would be running constantly, the negative pressure will pull in the warm air from the bottom slits of the tent if my heater is close in proximity no? I would also program the heater to only turn on during lights off period, as the lights would sufficiently warm the inside otherwise.

Is this a sound plan? I can either start now and pay the extra $ for running the heater, or wait another month. Decisions decisions..
 
so the issue is that the tent is located in the attic which is a pretty big space. Off top of my head, maybe a 600 square ft. That being said here are some follow up questions to your heater suggestion:

1. What size heater should I get if I decide to go this route? The attic space is pretty big, so I'm assuming I'd have to get a big heater in order to keep the entire attic space heated at a minimum of 70 degrees.

2. Can I just get away with getting a smaller heater to save $ on electricity? Here's my thinking: if I get a small heater and place it directly outside of the tent near the open slits at the bottom that should suffice? The idea is not to heat up the entire attic space, but to simply provide heat or warm air into the tent. Since my exhaust fan would be running constantly, the negative pressure will pull in the warm air from the bottom slits of the tent if my heater is close in proximity no? I would also program the heater to only turn on during lights off period, as the lights would sufficiently warm the inside otherwise.

Is this a sound plan? I can either start now and pay the extra $ for running the heater, or wait another month. Decisions decisions..

PUt the heater inside the tent.
 
gov, beautiful.

im looking forward to trying my Lani :thanks: its one of the ones I sprouted, survived, and growing. :) .


I'd love to see it along the way. You dropping pics somewhere?





how big is that Fluff container? :)

Well, it was perfect size when mixed with 2 blocks of softened philly cream cheese. Those sliced granny smith apples were like shovel scoops...lol
 
I'd love to see it along the way. You dropping pics somewhere?




Well, it was perfect size when mixed with 2 blocks of softened philly cream cheese. Those sliced granny smith apples were like shovel scoops...lol

Fluff with cream cheese...eh?? :)
hmmm..sounds like the start of something delish fro me to make TY.

Not yet. I haven't seen the nursery of newborns since they left for their tent 2 weeks ago.
They are in a small tent. 2 x 2.5 due to limitations.
I might need to get creative.
 
so the issue is that the tent is located in the attic which is a pretty big space. Off top of my head, maybe a 600 square ft. That being said here are some follow up questions to your heater suggestion:

1. What size heater should I get if I decide to go this route? The attic space is pretty big, so I'm assuming I'd have to get a big heater in order to keep the entire attic space heated at a minimum of 70 degrees.

2. Can I just get away with getting a smaller heater to save $ on electricity? Here's my thinking: if I get a small heater and place it directly outside of the tent near the open slits at the bottom that should suffice? The idea is not to heat up the entire attic space, but to simply provide heat or warm air into the tent. Since my exhaust fan would be running constantly, the negative pressure will pull in the warm air from the bottom slits of the tent if my heater is close in proximity no? I would also program the heater to only turn on during lights off period, as the lights would sufficiently warm the inside otherwise.

Is this a sound plan? I can either start now and pay the extra $ for running the heater, or wait another month. Decisions decisions..

I keep my heater inside where the plants are, and set up my exhaust system to come on if the temp or RH exceeds the max I want. If your heater is set right, it won't trigger the exhaust system to kick on, saving the heat inside the tent. It is also a fail safe in case your heater thermostat sticks, the exhaust system will keep you plants from getting overheated. It takes so fiddling to get it all to work just right, but well worth the effort.

DL
 
I keep my heater inside where the plants are, and set up my exhaust system to come on if the temp or RH exceeds the max I want. If your heater is set right, it won't trigger the exhaust system to kick on, saving the heat inside the tent. It is also a fail safe in case your heater thermostat sticks, the exhaust system will keep you plants from getting overheated. It takes so fiddling to get it all to work just right, but well worth the effort.

DL


^^^^ 100% agreed.
 
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