Can someone break this High Brix soil down for me to understand , im not the brightest button in the tin lol
You definitely want to read the first 20 pages or so of this thread.....but here are the basics:
1. Foundational minerals/elements.
We want certain ratio's of Ca, Mg, P and K. Calcium is by far, the most abundant thing in the soil, but the ratio's of Ca/Mg, Ca/K/P are critical. We KNOW, through well established science, what helps the microbial population in the soil (biota) do their best, and these are the ratios we insist on.
2. Soil biology. The soil itself won't grow plants unless there it is very much alive. We innoculate the soil with beneficial microbes, bacteria, humates, etc. The biota break down all those minerals. Without them, nothing happens and the plants are sickly and weak.
3. Trace elements. We want them all present in trace amounts. Again, this is all tested and formulated by the lab I use.
4. Soil Energy. When everything else is present in the soil, we need to give it some energy so it can go to work! This is done with various "fertilizers," mostly fish juice, but also come Calcium Nitrate, Ammonium Sulfate, Ammonium Phosphate and at times other stuff. This creates a litteral battery in the soil, with measurable voltage.
In order to keep this loop running we employ the use of foliar sprays to feed the soil. (soil energy and signals from the plant.)
When it's all working together, the plant feeds the biota and signals the biota to bring back some minerals to the plant, which it does....and then gets another hit of plant sugar (root exudates) and so on.
High Brix gardening is taking full advantage of the symbiotic relationship between soil and roots. This creates plants with a much greater nutrient density than can be done in any other way....because plants are designed for living soil.
And it's not just because of the sugars - the plant is in prime health and produces prime cannabinoids. 
It's just ... different.
