Ok guys, sorry if this is off topic but you are the most knowledgeable people I know. I have a wonder woman fem that I had started on 12/12 from seed. She was so anxious to get going she put on pre-flowers after only 3 weeks! I did't have room for her in the flower room and she was far too small anyway. My question is why won't she come out of flower? I put her on 18/6 almost 4 weeks ago now! All the new growth still has pre-flowers. My jock horror auto is almost ready for harvest (my first all organic grow, and only my third grow overall) and I am concerned if I put the WW in to flower while she is still trying to come out of flower it will cause her to hermie. So what would you guys do in a similar situation? I was thinking if I harvest the JH in a couple days I might (since it hasn't stopped flowering) put the WW in there, thinking that she never came out of flower at all so maybe it wouldn't stress her much to put her back into flower. But I'm pretty sure I'm wrong on that one, seems like a lot of stress. Thanks for any help resolving this.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
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Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
Not exactly sure without pics, but pre-flowers don't mean the plant is flowering unless it's under a flowering light schedule as well. Pre-flowers just mean it's "ready" to flower.
is 12/12 the date or light schedule?
if its the light schedule, you are basically blooming from day 1- its in constant bloom...its what i do too.
Not exactly sure without pics, but pre-flowers don't mean the plant is flowering unless it's under a flowering light schedule as well. Pre-flowers just mean it's "ready" to flower.
Here you go!
DrZiggy, I had it under 12/12 light schedule but it went to pre flower way too soon, started stretching and I dont have the room in my veg cab to let it get too big. Do to the heat issues I mentioned on previous posts my JH auto is taking longer to finish than it should have. I had to take the wonder woman out of flower to give my JH some time. I did notice some of the pre-flowers appear to be dying off. I just want to make sure I give her as few stresses as possible. I already have the heat issue I'm trying to resolve, thats plenty of stress as is. Any help from you guys is very much appreciated.
Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
Your pics are fine man. 
I knew it was too early for me to answer that question...lmao. Sorry man, I didn't catch the "started her under 12/12".
I knew it was too early for me to answer that question...lmao. Sorry man, I didn't catch the "started her under 12/12".its doing whats its trying to do...
starting a seed under 12/12 it will send pre pistils up very quickly..2-3 weeks from seed..and then it goes directly into full bloom..i found all seeds act like Autos; they dont need to be flipped when grown from seed 12/12/ or less, i.e. 11.5/13.5 etc..really cool stuff!
starting a seed under 12/12 it will send pre pistils up very quickly..2-3 weeks from seed..and then it goes directly into full bloom..i found all seeds act like Autos; they dont need to be flipped when grown from seed 12/12/ or less, i.e. 11.5/13.5 etc..really cool stuff!
dajerm, are you using Docs kit?
The DeStress is for stress. if you have it..use it 1/2 strength.. 1/2 ml /oz H2O
The DeStress is for stress.
if you have it..use it 1/2 strength.. 1/2 ml /oz H2ONo sir, not using the kit YET. I am hoping after I get my environment completely controllable I can go DBHB. So do you think the WW would be good to go as far as putting in my flower cab? Would it stress her unnecessarily?
I would..shes been begging for flowers!!
...to give you them!
yes..i dont know size of pot theyre in, if small, you may want to transplant 1st..then into flower room
oh man thats funny! Yea that is only a 3gal pot, I use that to start them in and then transplant to a modified 15 gal bucket cut down to about 10 gal. I love that bucket lots of soil so its hard to make a mistake and I only need to water once a week or less. My JH should be ready to go in a couple of days so Ill move the WW then. Thanks for your advice and help, I don't need another hermie, I had a kaya gold, nice big buds, got about 4.5 ozs dry but they were full of seeds and the smoke was terrible. I had one of those acu-rite temp sensors in the flower room that had that red led blinking every 45 sec or so. I think that may have helped along with the heat to cause it to hermie. Some say the led isn't bright enough to hurt but I have to disagree. In complete darkness when that thing went off it was crazy bright. I don't think id sleep too well with that thing flashing in my face all night either. I took it apart and removed the led :} Anyway I thought I had done good 4.5oz off one 250 watt hps... not bad for a newb... but alas my heart was broken... full of seeds.Your pics are fine man.
No need to be sorry, all is well. I appreciate any and all help and replies. I just love conversing with you guys. I don't have anyone else to talk to about my hobby.
Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
I have a few power strips that have green switches. I had them in other parts of he house, but as I realized the same thing, I went around and gathered them up. For the other illicit lights in there, I slap tape over them.
Cannatard
Well-Known Member
Yup, I have tape all over the place lol
I'm skeptical small LED power indicators and the like will cause problems. I've grown quite a few plants w/o a hermie and have a few LEDs in my grow room (some always on, some turn on and off).
If you grow outside, you have street lights (sometimes), full moons, car headlights and many more sources of artificial light during the plants' dark period. No hermies there either and those lights are much brighter.
If you grow outside, you have street lights (sometimes), full moons, car headlights and many more sources of artificial light during the plants' dark period. No hermies there either and those lights are much brighter.
During late summer and early fall there is also more far red light outside though. Far red light will alter phytochrome to keep it in flowering mode. If you pulse a bright light during the middle of the night cycle indoors each night and follow it with far red light, your plants won't skip a beat and will keep flowering
agree...How much light and duration is needed to stall or screw up a grow? most GRs are way darker than their outside environment gets..
IMO, Its another one of those handed down ideas that gets accepted by most until disproven. This plant has lots of stuff like that.
Experimenting, playing, one finds many are not accurate...
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I wear a bright, white LED headlamp when working in the dark....which is daily. No hermies yet!
Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
I went in my room yesterday 20 minutes after lights out and turned on a flouro lamp for a few minutes while I did something I forgot to do 20 minutes earlier. I actually do that once a week or so...no hermies here either.
agree...How much light and duration is needed to stall or screw up a grow? most GRs are way darker than their outside environment gets..
IMO, Its another one of those handed down ideas that gets accepted by most until disproven. This plant has lots of stuff like that.
Experimenting, playing, one finds many are not accurate...
Again I would say that outdoor is far different during the night than our indoor. We must be careful discounting the effect of the far red light in late summer/fall. Studies have been done indoor with short day plants (cannabis is a short day flowering plant which actually means long night). Flowering was prevented indoor by flashing a light in the middle of the dark period each day. This is of course why gas lantern routine works well. If that same light was flashed followed by lighting from a far red bulb then flowering commenced/continued.
Its all about phytochome. Phytochrome has two light induced conformations Pr and Pfr. 660nm light will shift Pr to Pfr. 730nm (far red) will shift Pfr to Pr. If phytochrome is in the Pr state then flowering commences or continues. If it is in the Pfr state flowering will not start or ceases. Outdoor these light flashes by headlights etc, are counteracted by far red light reconverting any Pfr to Pr again. Indoor, there is no far red light in the dark cycle to do that. So if we flash a light in thee darkness it takes approximately 2 hours to convert Pfr to Pr again. If that happens just one time its not going to be a big deal. Do that quite often and there may be issues with reduced flowering response i.e buds that stretch and go half veg, hermies, reduced trichs and terps, etc.
As far as sex reversal or nanners I think that is mostly genetically determined. So if your strain is not hermie prone then having night time light issues and irregualarities will probably not make a female plant produce nanners. If it is a sensitive strain then you may have issues. Especially if there are other stressors present like excess heat, infestations, over fertilization, etc.
For me, once the lights go out I don't mess with it. Once I get these far red lights if I need to go in, I will just turn on the far reds and be confident nothing is awry.