Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Check out Epigenetics. :cheesygrinsmiley:

External environmental factors can turn on genes that have been inactive, and change the phenotypical expression. Sometimes it's inheritable and all future plants will have that gene switch turned on from seed. The cannabis we grow isn't very stable now because of all the crossing over the past century, so the various phenos are more easily triggered.

:Namaste:
 
That borders on lamarkian thought Ziggs, which is to say, it is like saying a giraffe exposed to higher branches will breed taller giraffes.

But really natural selection works differently. If we grow plants we can pre clone them and select the ones that end up having the characteristics we want. Be they longer or shorter grow period. A plant strains genetics contain variations and these variations are the result of random mutations that end up having positive effects. Most mutations are lethal. The ones that are not are usually problems. The ones that aren't problems neither help not hinder. The rare mutations that result in an advantage are kept in the gene pool because the plant survives better somehow.
In an artificial environment we provide the artificial selective pressure by deciding who gets to procreate. It is completely artificial. But we can select for the variations we want. They will be in the genetic variation already. We hunt for what we want or breed it in. To actually induce these things in nature would take longer than you or I have on the earth. We may only play with what is already there.
So to bring it back to the giraffe the natural variation includes longer necked giraffes. If we cut off all branches below 15 feet all of this giraffes who can't reach 16 feet die. 17 feet becomes the new norm. Eventually there is variation in height based on the new norm. We repeat. But this type of selective pressure takes a long time to make big shifts.
Of course there is a varying theory that genetic shifts can happen in super short time periods. But certainly beyond a single lifetime for you or I.

shigs, true it does remind one of Lamarckian theory :).. I found this very interesting..its 7 yrs old..
A Comeback for Lamarckian Evolution?
Cool stuff!!
 
govt, youre running everything the same?
what is she? :)

Not quite everything the same Zig, but in effect it turns out that way. I cracked 2 fem ghost train haze beans. One was kind of retarded, but alive, the other was glorious...turned out to be a dude. So, I have a runt GTH#1 in the corner for shits & grins, but the rest are Laniakea. I grew a quick test sample last year. Here's a pic of it then. It ran 11/13 from rooted clone.

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These in this run are a full test-run (veg to maturity and flower with minimal training). All cracked and there are 3 distinct phenotypes. AND, I'm excited all three look to be keeper-phenos. These are the ones I'm making fem beans with as well.

:cool:
 
Oh man, that one looks electric!

Have you tried the WayAhead yet?

Hey Doc....yes, i have , all four plants have gotten the WA twice now , as per instructions.Things are getting heavy over at my place but could be even better....late in bloom the Dorm Grow 240's can't give them enough, it's easy to see the difference from areas that are more under the Budmaster. This crop i elected to let the plants come up to meet the light ...that worked really good until the outer edges get out of the effective range of the good Pars, ya know. Cheers Doc. and Gang, have an awesome weekend .
 
Hey Doc, I was just rereading your post on bud washing as I commonly do right before harvest. I like to see if anything has changed since my last one. I have always skipped one thing and now I am considering it. The issue is I have always dried and cured in the dark. You recommend a few days of light in early drying right after the wash. So I am wondering what is good light for that since I don't want degrade any thing built up from the long night cycle. Is just a big ol CFL at 3-4 feet away enough? I was considering running my little MARS 300 (150 true) at the top of my tent which probably give ~4 feet to the scrog where I will hang them after the wash.

Anyway Thanks!

:Namaste:

A large CFL is great. No problem. It's not that critical either.
 
I finally had time to take a few pictures. I only have 5 large Paki's going right now as I'm about to make a lighting switch.

I'll be replacing 4 Advanced 400's with 2 Advanced 650's. I'm not sure of all the D's, X's, E's etc. but they're badass.
I'll also be adding a 4x8 tray and running 2 Gavita Pro series double ended HPS.

I"m very excited about all this to say the least. Here are my latest

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Before and After 1st trim in veg
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Random shots

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shigs, true it does remind one of Lamarckian theory :).. I found this very interesting..its 7 yrs old..
A Comeback for Lamarckian Evolution?
Cool stuff!!
Be careful. The reason this is new is that it is not the basic way that genetics works. These are established genes not new ones or mutated ones. Trying to induce a different photoperiod is likely not something that is epigenetic in nature. If we look at cannabis there are the 3 main types. Indica, sativa, ruderalis. Each has adopted to their own particular situation. It is unlikely that there is anything epigenetic ruling over this as they have not needed much variability in order to maintain happiness in nature. And if there is no selective pressure to do so then it is unlikely that type of control would come into existence.
The easy way of course is for us to mix in new genetics through hybridization and pick what works.
 
Am I reading this right? Every watering has a tea or drench? I don't know if I am being a jackass, but do you ever use straight water? Was reading the blog of Docs instructions that thats the conclusion I am coming too. Am I incorrect?

I don't believe you ever use straight water, all water should have 1/4 strength Transplant. I believe most people do one or two waterings and then do a drench.
 
I don't believe you ever use straight water, all water should have 1/4 strength Transplant. I believe most people do one or two waterings and then do a drench.

Yeah thats what I am understanding. I am ready to rock and roll now. Doing a dry run right now with inline, humidifer, and light running. I am ready for brixin. Thx for the info and help everbody!!!!!
 
Yeah thats what I am understanding. I am ready to rock and roll now. Doing a dry run right now with inline, humidifer, and light running. I am ready for brixin. Thx for the info and help everbody!!!!!

I don't know what kind of setup you are running, just remember that without pots of soil it's going to be a few degrees hotter than it will be with them plants.
 
I don't know what kind of setup you are running, just remember that without pots of soil it's going to be a few degrees hotter than it will be with them plants.

My sig offers a brief glimpse of my room. Updated photos today. Low humidity and temp in my basement. I still have a 3x3 piece of foam board that will go under plants. Tomorrow will be a long run with foam board in place. I have 2 more weeks of cooking and I'm ready for a journal.

Also means I have 2 weeks to get indoor environment steady. So much done yet so much left to do. I dream of my first harvest, Blue Dream to be precise.
 
Am I reading this right? Every watering has a tea or drench? I don't know if I am being a jackass, but do you ever use straight water? Was reading the blog of Docs instructions that thats the conclusion I am coming too. Am I incorrect?

From the instructions:

Tea: All drenches are "served" with 2.5 mils of Tea, with two exceptions.

In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water plus 1/4 strength Transplant between drenches with one exception.*

The two exceptions for 2.5 mils Tea are the Rescue Drench and the Super Drench.

As it says above, between drenches we water with straight water (with 1/4 strength Transplant added). It's up to you if you need one or two waterings between drenches.

The exception to straight water between drenches is the Cat Drench, where we drench back to back.

I've read and re-read the directions. I think people get confused by listening to what other people are doing. Some are advanced and experienced and have moved past the basics----which is exactly what we should do.

However, most of the confusion comes about with newbies. Follow the directions! Water inbetween drenches. Until you get the hang of it, follow the directions.
 
Hi everyone,

Like I mentioned a few pages back, I've just started my first high brix grow, and now have the journal started. Please come check it out when you get a chance, and feel free to set me straight whenever I make my inevitable mistakes. This is only my second grow ever, and I'm as green as they come. I have read through the entire In The Lab thread, a couple hundred pages of this thread, and quite a few of the journals many of you have written, so I have been trying to do my homework. But still nothing can replace the experience of growing. I just hope to make as few mistakes as possible, and your help, suggestions and advice along the way would be greatly appreciated! The link is in my signature line below.

Thanks! :thumb:
 
From the instructions:



The two exceptions for 2.5 mils Tea are the Rescue Drench and the Super Drench.

As it says above, between drenches we water with straight water (with 1/4 strength Transplant added). It's up to you if you need one or two waterings between drenches.

The exception to straight water between drenches is the Cat Drench, where we drench back to back.

I've read and re-read the directions. I think people get confused by listening to what other people are doing. Some are advanced and experienced and have moved past the basics----which is exactly what we should do.

However, most of the confusion comes about with newbies. Follow the directions! Water inbetween drenches. Until you get the hang of it, follow the directions.

Yeah man. I just want to make sure of every damn step. This is all a first for me. I have been known to jump into projects with not as much research and info known prior to lift off. I want this project to be well planned. I have 2 weeks left of cooking and I now know every aspect of the grow. Gives me time to finish all small supplies/jobs. I now have a plan from start to finish to rely on.

"First learn Balance, then learn Punch"- Mr. Miyagi, Karate Kid

:420: has become my "Miyagi"
 
I swayed from the instructions a bit this grow, one as an experiment, and two because;
Using 4th run brix soil and having no kit amendment to add last grow or this.
(also a secondary experiment of starting 11/13 from seed)

I thoroughly mixed in with a kits worth of 4x used soil

1 cup of the 6/5/3 minerals,

1/2 cup of DrEarth Tomato 4-6-3, Veggie & Herb which contains; Rich in:
Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Bone Meal, High Country Feather Meal, Cold Water Kelp Meal, Valley Grown Alfalfa Meal, Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Meal, Naturally Mined Potassium Sulfate, MicroActive Micronutrient-rich Seaweed Extract (synergistically boosted with micronized humic acids for maximum bioavailability).

1/2 cup Dr Earth All Purpose 5-5-5; Rich in:
Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Bone Meal, Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Meal, Valley Grown Alfalfa Meal, High Country Feather Meal, Naturally-mined Potassium Sulfate, Aged Bat Guano, Cold Water Kelp Meal, MicroActive Micronutrient-rich Seaweed Extract (synergistically boosted with 11% micronized humic acids for maximum bioavailability).

I used the lighter side of the recommended drenches and brix (never needed stress)

and i am getting this.
Check out more pics here Come on folks let's see some eye candy! Here's some for ya

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