Cannatard
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Thank you
Highpotanoose
Well-Known Member
Good morning High brix brothers and sisters,
Doc or anyone with ideas please feel free to comment
My issue is mid bloom fade
Sorry didn't grab pics but plants are fading to yellow and seems to be getting worse
I know these aren't ideal strains for the kit
Money Maker(strain hunter)and Berry OG(710)
Both have been in flower for 50 days and are listed as 60 day flowering time
I was wanting to take them to at least 70 days
I was lucky enough to get a sample of WA10x
thanks
ocBud) for plants that suffer from mid bloom fade just as this showed up I have been applying with brix since I received it at(.23ml per oz of H2O) and it did seem to stall the fade on the Berry OG but the Money Maker just kept fading to yellow each day
The Money Maker got so bad I hit her with the rescue drench which helped her but she stalled back out
I read earlier in the thread about Doc maybe have unlocked the code with the blood meal
Is it worth it to top dress with some blood meal
I did top dress with about a table spoon of Epsom due to starting to show mg deff
Two different strains
Strain Hunter Money Maker
710 Berry OG
Doc or anyone with ideas please feel free to comment
My issue is mid bloom fade
Sorry didn't grab pics but plants are fading to yellow and seems to be getting worse
I know these aren't ideal strains for the kit
Money Maker(strain hunter)and Berry OG(710)
Both have been in flower for 50 days and are listed as 60 day flowering time
I was wanting to take them to at least 70 days
I was lucky enough to get a sample of WA10x
thanksocBud) for plants that suffer from mid bloom fade just as this showed up I have been applying with brix since I received it at(.23ml per oz of H2O) and it did seem to stall the fade on the Berry OG but the Money Maker just kept fading to yellow each dayThe Money Maker got so bad I hit her with the rescue drench which helped her but she stalled back out
I read earlier in the thread about Doc maybe have unlocked the code with the blood meal
Is it worth it to top dress with some blood meal
I did top dress with about a table spoon of Epsom due to starting to show mg deff
Two different strains
Strain Hunter Money Maker
710 Berry OG
Cannatard
Well-Known Member
Seems legit! I dont know if id add the bloodmeal now tho, probably a bit too far along for that. Have you tried the OG drench?
Doc is the N in batguano reproductive as is the blood meal?
So I made an interesting discovery a few minutes ago. I decided to try and no til a few auto beans a few months back shortly after I harvested my first run on Doc's kit.
Things were a bit hectic then, anyway. But for the longest time I thought I knew which plants were no tilled. I was wrong. This morning I was cleaning some lower growth on a THC bomb, auto type -- I've run five or six in the past. What I found was, I thought that bean was in fresh soil, cause it's still vegging or just starting to stretch and it's almost two months old... I figured it was doing so well because it started in virgin soil.
Because I have a auto candy kush, just absolutely killing it,, and it's in first run soil. So, I kind of assumed the THC bomb was also. not so.
Really, another testament to the kit. I took a auto bean dropped it in a can that I cut the previous plant and left a stump. The soil it started in ran a whole cycle and got everything in the kit in the soil.
I'll upload a pic later. Won't do this justice, but it makes me that much more of a believer.
BTW Doc I'll be contacting you soon for some supplements.
Things were a bit hectic then, anyway. But for the longest time I thought I knew which plants were no tilled. I was wrong. This morning I was cleaning some lower growth on a THC bomb, auto type -- I've run five or six in the past. What I found was, I thought that bean was in fresh soil, cause it's still vegging or just starting to stretch and it's almost two months old... I figured it was doing so well because it started in virgin soil.
Because I have a auto candy kush, just absolutely killing it,, and it's in first run soil. So, I kind of assumed the THC bomb was also. not so.
Really, another testament to the kit. I took a auto bean dropped it in a can that I cut the previous plant and left a stump. The soil it started in ran a whole cycle and got everything in the kit in the soil.
I'll upload a pic later. Won't do this justice, but it makes me that much more of a believer.
BTW Doc I'll be contacting you soon for some supplements.
So I made an interesting discovery a few minutes ago. I decided to try and no til a few auto beans a few months back shortly after I harvested my first run on Doc's kit.
Things were a bit hectic then, anyway. But for the longest time I thought I knew which plants were no tilled. I was wrong. This morning I was cleaning some lower growth on a THC bomb, auto type -- I've run five or six in the past. What I found was, I thought that bean was in fresh soil, cause it's still vegging or just starting to stretch and it's almost two months old... I figured it was doing so well because it started in virgin soil.
Because I have a auto candy kush, just absolutely killing it,, and it's in first run soil. So, I kind of assumed the THC bomb was also. not so.
Really, another testament to the kit. I took a auto bean dropped it in a can that I cut the plant and left a stump. The soil it started in ran a whole cycle and got everything in the kit in the soil.
I'll upload a pic later. Won't do this justice, but it makes me that much more of a believer.
BTW Doc I'll be contacting you soon for some supplements.
MMM I've grown great plants on prevoius grow root balls. My Purple Haze (+) that was upcanned to a 10gal softee is on a root ball.
MMM I've grown great plants on prevoius grow root balls. My Purple Haze (+) that was upcanned to a 10gal softee is on a root ball.
Yeah, you inspired me Zig. I just assumed a temperamental auto wouldn't like it. I've no tiled with other plants over the summer, but never an auto, and not on Doc's. The other auto bean I no tiled this round was culled. I'm just a believer.... Again
- Thread starter
- #9,888
Yep. Organic nitrogen stimulates reproduction, barring other factors.
- Thread starter
- #9,889
Good morning High brix brothers and sisters,
Doc or anyone with ideas please feel free to comment
My issue is mid bloom fade
Sorry didn't grab pics but plants are fading to yellow and seems to be getting worse
I know these aren't ideal strains for the kit
Money Maker(strain hunter)and Berry OG(710)
Both have been in flower for 50 days and are listed as 60 day flowering time
I was wanting to take them to at least 70 days
I was lucky enough to get a sample of WA10x
The Money Maker got so bad I hit her with the rescue drench which helped her but she stalled back out
I read earlier in the thread about Doc maybe have unlocked the code with the blood meal
Is it worth it to top dress with some blood meal
I did top dress with about a table spoon of Epsom due to starting to show mg deff
Two different strains
Strain Hunter Money Maker
710 Berry OG
Use ANOTHER rescue drench or super drench. They'll come along.
The canopy
The trunk, notice I'm pointing to the old stump. The base of this auto exceeds the width of the lighter.
Happy Hi Brix everyone!!
The trunk, notice I'm pointing to the old stump. The base of this auto exceeds the width of the lighter.
Happy Hi Brix everyone!!
Snoop429
New Member
Good morning High brix brothers and sisters,
Doc or anyone with ideas please feel free to comment
My issue is mid bloom fade
Sorry didn't grab pics but plants are fading to yellow and seems to be getting worse
I know these aren't ideal strains for the kit
Money Maker(strain hunter)and Berry OG(710)
Both have been in flower for 50 days and are listed as 60 day flowering time
I was wanting to take them to at least 70 days
I was lucky enough to get a sample of WA10x
The Money Maker got so bad I hit her with the rescue drench which helped her but she stalled back out
I read earlier in the thread about Doc maybe have unlocked the code with the blood meal
Is it worth it to top dress with some blood meal
I did top dress with about a table spoon of Epsom due to starting to show mg deff
Two different strains
Strain Hunter Money Maker
710 Berry OG
Highpotanoose, I have a $MAker that I just put into flower a few days ago. I was under the impression by the lineage that this might be a good fit with the kit. Do you have any pics? Check out my journal if your interested and have any advice on what I can expect with this stain. Cheers
Highpotanoose
Well-Known Member
I'll check out your journal
I believe Doc says strains that are landrace do better in the kit
No pics I didn't grab any
If I have time I'll grab some this week
- Thread starter
- #9,894
I'll check out your journal
I believe Doc says strains that are landrace do better in the kit
No pics I didn't grab any
If I have time I'll grab some this week
Hey if you run those strains again, use some organic Blood Meal in the soil and top dress with Epsoms the first week in bloom and every 2 weeks after that. They'll be much better. Promise.
However, a plant that does well in the soil is going to easily become your favorite over a celebrity/hydro strain. You'll see by and by. Until then, blood meal.
- Thread starter
- #9,895
I'm usually against the stuff, especially on the deck of the boat or on the sail cover.
Seabird quano is too high in potassium, so my first thought is pigeon guano might be too. I'm not even sure I've ever seen "pigeon" guano before.
Yeah doc, this is caged pigeons no where's near the sea and I swear I was wondering if you knew anything about this did you manure as I have access to this page and guano or Manoe are whatever you want to call it and it's clean pigeon in your pile underneath the cage in it Is about 6 to 8 years old that is been piled separately from the pigeons so it's definitely cooked a long time just want to know what you what you thought about it. Basically I was wondering if it was something I could use in the kit when I get my kit.
- Thread starter
- #9,898
I recommend using the kit as recommended a few times and then trying out different stuff. I'll warn you, most of the experiments do not turn out for the better. Some do however, and that's part of what makes this so damn much fun.
Caged pigeon crap?
Only free range pigeon poop for me.
Sigh. I guess I'm the exception that proves the rule... lol
So my girl has looked like hell pretty much from the start. I'm still convinced my soil never cooked properly, even though it sat for 40 days, and was moved off the kitchen tiles after 18 days for fear that despite the 80f temps the tiles might be too cold. I've been following the MaxYields regimen. I'm under LEDs in a tiny 2'x2.5'x6' tent (thus, only ONE plant lol) and everything tends to dry out VERY slowly which has made it really difficult to get feedings in while trying not to overwater. Temps are between 75-78f with lights on, and 73-74 with them off. Humidity has proven impossible to maintain, I was keeping a 1" pool of standing water (with a splash of hydrogen peroxide) in the floor of the tent, a wet towel and two 9x13 baking pans full of water and could barely get 30-40%. Now I've had to abandon those techniques as the plant has gotten larger and will need the space, so I'm at 15%.
I've got one sickly landrace Kerala. It never had that waxy fake look I've heard about, just this sort of green construction paper look. When it was a seedling, the leaves were really kinda rough looking, like almost krinkled, but still green and turgid, not burnt or dry or crispy at all. Just... "edgy" like it was angry. lol
In short, what I'm seeing looks to my untrained eye to be Mag def and overwatering. Leaves are green and curling down and the fan leaves have been dying from the bottom up, edges yellowing first, green veins until last then they turn brown and fall off. (Though I've also seen a couple turn uniformly yellow like N def and a few have gotten that blotchy brown necrosis like P def. It's kinda random.) At this point she is sans-fans to more than halfway up the stalk and the little fans on the lower branches are now starting to go as well.
I've made a concerted effort from the start to not overwater. I'm currently going a week between waterings, waiting until the pot actually feels completely empty. If anything, I don't think I'm watering enough! But it doesn't ever fully wilt, it just gets droopy and sad looking (is this non-wilting a high brix thing that is tricking me into underwatering?), but it looks like that MOST the time anyway. The stems are so purple they look almost black.
These symptoms have basically been present since the start, they're just accelerating over time. I've tried not to panic, telling myself to stick to the schedule and she'll sort herself out. And pretty much every time I feed her, it almost looks like she HAS, for a day or two, before slumping right back into droopy leaf death sadness. I suspect the MaxYields numbers are too low, or I'm misunderstanding something. I've upped the amount of drench/tea on the last couple waterings and it really seemed to help... the re-slump hasn't been as severe this time, anyway.
The only deviation from the MaxYields is that I dissolved a pinch of epsoms in the waterings and sprays for a few times, but it didn't help and maybe made things worse, so I stopped.
I'm ready to transplant into the final 5gal smartie, and I'm wondering if there's anything extra I should do to the soil to improve her chances of pulling out of the death spiral? I've got some Langbeinite, Gypsum and rock phosphate lying around, and some Oregonism XL. Would any of that help? Or should I just grit my teeth and trust the soil to pull through in the end?
This is at 8 weeks since it first sprouted, 22" tall in a (I'm guessing) 1.6 gallon. (note that the pics make her look better than she really looks. The ongoing yellowing on the upper fan leaves is much more obvious in person) note that this is the "improved" state after giving her a growth/tea drench at 3ml/1.5ml in two quarts of distilled water:
So my girl has looked like hell pretty much from the start. I'm still convinced my soil never cooked properly, even though it sat for 40 days, and was moved off the kitchen tiles after 18 days for fear that despite the 80f temps the tiles might be too cold. I've been following the MaxYields regimen. I'm under LEDs in a tiny 2'x2.5'x6' tent (thus, only ONE plant lol) and everything tends to dry out VERY slowly which has made it really difficult to get feedings in while trying not to overwater. Temps are between 75-78f with lights on, and 73-74 with them off. Humidity has proven impossible to maintain, I was keeping a 1" pool of standing water (with a splash of hydrogen peroxide) in the floor of the tent, a wet towel and two 9x13 baking pans full of water and could barely get 30-40%. Now I've had to abandon those techniques as the plant has gotten larger and will need the space, so I'm at 15%.
I've got one sickly landrace Kerala. It never had that waxy fake look I've heard about, just this sort of green construction paper look. When it was a seedling, the leaves were really kinda rough looking, like almost krinkled, but still green and turgid, not burnt or dry or crispy at all. Just... "edgy" like it was angry. lol
In short, what I'm seeing looks to my untrained eye to be Mag def and overwatering. Leaves are green and curling down and the fan leaves have been dying from the bottom up, edges yellowing first, green veins until last then they turn brown and fall off. (Though I've also seen a couple turn uniformly yellow like N def and a few have gotten that blotchy brown necrosis like P def. It's kinda random.) At this point she is sans-fans to more than halfway up the stalk and the little fans on the lower branches are now starting to go as well.
I've made a concerted effort from the start to not overwater. I'm currently going a week between waterings, waiting until the pot actually feels completely empty. If anything, I don't think I'm watering enough! But it doesn't ever fully wilt, it just gets droopy and sad looking (is this non-wilting a high brix thing that is tricking me into underwatering?), but it looks like that MOST the time anyway. The stems are so purple they look almost black.
These symptoms have basically been present since the start, they're just accelerating over time. I've tried not to panic, telling myself to stick to the schedule and she'll sort herself out. And pretty much every time I feed her, it almost looks like she HAS, for a day or two, before slumping right back into droopy leaf death sadness. I suspect the MaxYields numbers are too low, or I'm misunderstanding something. I've upped the amount of drench/tea on the last couple waterings and it really seemed to help... the re-slump hasn't been as severe this time, anyway.
The only deviation from the MaxYields is that I dissolved a pinch of epsoms in the waterings and sprays for a few times, but it didn't help and maybe made things worse, so I stopped.
I'm ready to transplant into the final 5gal smartie, and I'm wondering if there's anything extra I should do to the soil to improve her chances of pulling out of the death spiral? I've got some Langbeinite, Gypsum and rock phosphate lying around, and some Oregonism XL. Would any of that help? Or should I just grit my teeth and trust the soil to pull through in the end?
This is at 8 weeks since it first sprouted, 22" tall in a (I'm guessing) 1.6 gallon. (note that the pics make her look better than she really looks. The ongoing yellowing on the upper fan leaves is much more obvious in person) note that this is the "improved" state after giving her a growth/tea drench at 3ml/1.5ml in two quarts of distilled water: