Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

i wonder if you can vape it :hmmm:
 
Makes a lot of sense now. Have not looked at my pics yet, but I got a few of that one and I'll get to it. It's just cool to think that happens. Caught me way off guard. Doc's kit continues to amaze. I have a Candy Kush auto, it's like nothing I've grown. And a THC bomb auto that isn't far behind.

Thanks again, Doc!
 
It just occured to me on my morning commute that I should start posting exactly what I'm feeding.

I'm gonna do that! Whenever and whatever I add to the water will be recorded, starting today.

That way, some of the confusion can be cleared up and other people can take theirs up a notch too.
 
Doc Bud said:
Depending on how bad the infestation is, you can often control them by mixing up the foliar sprays a bit light and soaking the bottoms of the leaves. I'll get the sprayer right under the leaf and physically blast the bastards off the plant. I've almost always got mites in the room, but they don't usually cause a problem. Sometimes I'll see some webbing usually on a lower fan leaf. That's when I do a super heavy foliar spraying, every 3 days.

For severe problems:

I like a product called "Take Down" which is pyrethrin based. We have had horses until recently and would have to spray them for flies at certain times and we used a product the vet recommended......pyrethrin. It's safe and can be sprayed up to the day of harvest...not that I would ever do such a thing.

Spray 'em super heavy. If it's a clone, mix up the solution in a cup and submerge the clone in the solution.

Other products that work well and are safe are Azamax and Azatrol.
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Thanks Doc, I am going to try option one first and see how it goes. The infestation doesn't seem that bad. I will step it up if more leaves start looking damaged.
 
shadowmoses said:
Thanks Doc, I am going to try option one first and see how it goes. The infestation doesn't seem that bad. I will step it up if more leaves start looking damaged.
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Pretend the foliar spray is designed to physically dislodge them Get the leaves good and soaked, spraying the underside of the leaf with direct impact, like you're trying to wash them away.

It works very, very well.
 
Doc Bud said:
It just occured to me on my morning commute that I should start posting exactly what I'm feeding.

I'm gonna do that! Whenever and whatever I add to the water will be recorded, starting today.

That way, some of the confusion can be cleared up and other people can take theirs up a notch too.
Click to expand...

Hell yea!!!!

Thanks bro
:Namaste:
 
Doc Bud said:
Pretend the foliar spray is designed to physically dislodge them Get the leaves good and soaked, spraying the underside of the leaf with direct impact, like you're trying to wash them away.

It works very, very well.
Click to expand...

Awesome, that is exactly what I did with the Brix spray today at half strength. Would you recommend half strength one day and the other half the next day? Or perhaps switch between Brix/De-stress at half strength every other day? I know there are a lot of other options.

Doc Bud said:
It just occured to me on my morning commute that I should start posting exactly what I'm feeding.

I'm gonna do that! Whenever and whatever I add to the water will be recorded, starting today.

That way, some of the confusion can be cleared up and other people can take theirs up a notch too.
Click to expand...

This will be most beneficial for everyone, thank you so much Doc!
 
shadowmoses said:
Awesome, that is exactly what I did with the Brix spray today at half strength. Would you recommend half strength one day and the other half the next day? Or perhaps switch between Brix/De-stress at half strength every other day? I know there are a lot of other options.



This will be most beneficial for everyone, thank you so much Doc!
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Every 3 days. They need time off.

If and when you need to use the Takedown spray, put on some gloves and us it the same way, like you're trying to blast them off with the spray.

I have mites all the time. The trick is to keep them from damaging the plants. Mostly, they live in there without letting their presence be known, but occasionally I have some webbing.....and that's when I blast that webbing off with a foliar spray.
 
Doc Bud said:
It just occured to me on my morning commute that I should start posting exactly what I'm feeding.

I'm gonna do that! Whenever and whatever I add to the water will be recorded, starting today.

That way, some of the confusion can be cleared up and other people can take theirs up a notch too.
Click to expand...

I didn't wanna ask but.........yeah that would be great.......on a similar note.........if you have a rootbound 1 gallon plant going into a 7 and flipping......bout how much water do they consume in your environment during turbo mode....after the cat? It seems my plants are thirsty every 3-4 days......feeding them a gallon at a time.......I guess I'm just trying to get an idea......I know we want moist soil through out bloom.....I'm thinking I might actually not keeping it moist enough?.....

Thanks doc for all ya do...........:high-five:
 
NematodeNate said:
I didn't wanna ask but.........yeah that would be great.......on a similar note.........if you have a rootbound 1 gallon plant going into a 7 and flipping......bout how much water do they consume in your environment during turbo mode....after the cat? It seems my plants are thirsty every 3-4 days......feeding them a gallon at a time.......I guess I'm just trying to get an idea......I know we want moist soil through out bloom.....I'm thinking I might actually not keeping it moist enough?.....

Thanks doc for all ya do...........:high-five:
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In "turbo" mode, they'll need water every 3 days for sure. I like to pour a pint or so slowly down the top when the top is dry, but they don't quite need water yet.
 
I've been checking it out and it appears that this is probably "guttation". The plant stoma close while there is still pressure inside and the sap oozes out. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Guttation - Wikipedia

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Graytail said:
I've been checking it out and it appears that this is probably "guttation". The plant stoma close while there is still pressure inside and the sap oozes out. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Guttation - Wikipedia

image35292.jpg
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After reading that link it makes sense when I saw it,, when it was in the dark. Might be another reason to consider a dark period before harvest. Cool
 
You should brix test that sap, Doc. Icemud has done a lot of petiole sap tests, and they come in much lower than foliage or bud tests, generally in the 5-10 range.
 
Graytail said:
You should brix test that sap, Doc. Icemud has done a lot of petiole sap tests, and they come in much lower than foliage or bud tests, generally in the 5-10 range.
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I'll do it tomorrow, or whenever I harvest the last two. If there's some dripping when I'm in there today I'll also test it.

The scissor hash was incredibly good.
 
A follow up on pruning in veg. A couple weeks ago these exactly plants were pruned in mid-veg:
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You'll remember I took off everything but the top 3 nodes. Well, today I pruned them again, this time I got 5 primo clones. Look what's happened to the stems. This is what we want when we go into bloom.

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OK, so today I dunked the veg plants.

4 gallons of water, 5 mils of Tea. No transplant or drench. That's not my usual practice. I normally use 1/4 ounce Transplant when I do this, but they were all looking pretty lush and green so I wanted to give them a break. I took the 4 gallons and put half in 2 buckets and dunked the plants for 2 minutes each.

Also, in the bloom room I saw this:

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You see those 3 with the lighter colored soil? Well, those needed watering so they each got a gallon of a mixture that was 5 mils Tea and 1/4 ounce Transplant in 3 gallons of water.

Random shots.

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In the 3rd pic down a couple of nodes look like they where super cropped, as far as I know you don't use this practice,what caused the swollen knuckle at the node closest to the cam and just opposite also looks like it is swollen

Why did you decide to add the tea to the plain water?

Sometimes I need to keep plants in veg a little longer till space open ups in the flower room

You like to keep them in 1 gal cans till you are ready to flower then upcan flip in a week or so or I think that is what I read

Is it better to prune them back in 1 gal or upcan and veg till ready to flower

I have 2 freshly popped beans that I am going to DocBud top/prune

:Namaste:
 
Highpotanoose said:
In the 3rd pic down a couple of nodes look like they where super cropped, as far as I know you don't use this practice,what caused the swollen knuckle at the node closest to the cam and just opposite also looks like it is swollen

Why did you decide to add the tea to the plain water?

Sometimes I need to keep plants in veg a little longer till space open ups in the flower room

You like to keep them in 1 gal cans till you are ready to flower then upcan flip in a week or so or I think that is what I read

Is it better to prune them back in 1 gal or upcan and veg till ready to flower

I have 2 freshly popped beans that I am going to DocBud top/prune

:Namaste:
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Every now and then I super crop in veg, knowing I'm going to top the plant. I'll supercrop the top in order to stimulate the lower branches to grow if the clone isn't growing laterally. But if things are going properly, I'll merely top the plant, which is exactly what I did on that 3rd pic down.

If you look, you'll see the scissor cut right at the confluence of the main branches. The knuckle will swell like that due to the cut.

2. I added the Tea to the water because their getting pretty root bound and I have been feeding them pretty heavy and they were looking a bit too lush, with more leaf than I like, so I felt they needed to skip a meal while still keeping the soil super happy. Normally, there would be 1/4 oz transplant in that.

3. I keep them in 1 gallon until their shape and roots are ready to bloom. Today, for example, I pruned, scored roots, transplanted and put into bloom all at once. I do that most often, as when I harvest a plant I like to put another plant in its place right then.

My idea of a perpetual grow is one where there isn't a bare spot under any light at any time. It means I cull lots of perfectly good clones and maybe 20 to 30% of vegged plants. But I usually have something ready to go the moment a plant is harvested.

On those beans, let them grow nice and tall till you get 5 or 6 sets of true leaves, then super crop above the second true node and when you have 5 bladed leaves on the side branches, THEN top the plant.

If they crow laterally to begin with, just top at the second true node when those branches have 5 bladed leaves. It will give you a very nice, efficient plant.
 
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