tlx9
New Member
I know we are feeding the soil but sometimes I forget and think just because the plant is younger that we need to dilute the drenches.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
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I know we are feeding the soil but sometimes I forget and think just because the plant is younger that we need to dilute the drenches.
Either I'm weird, or my plants are, because I never fed that heavy and they had the nice shine and all.
I'm probably guilty of introducing the "gallons of soil" concept when I posted my drench calculator. We ALWAYS talk about feeding the soil, and many of us do not grow in 4x8 trays or raised beds nor do we always have 6 plants going, so it made sense to me. I am not able to justify mixing up drenches based on the basic kit instructions because I never grow 6 plants at the same time and much of the time the plants I do have are not in 7 gal pots. I'd waste so much of the ingredients, I'd run out very early while I watch most of my drenches go down the drain. That's why I calculated a starting point (only) based on the amount of soil used for them. I started with one plant, then two plants - both in one gal pots. In my defense, that calculator worked like a charm for one plant, two plants, four plants, and it worked just as well in 1 gal pots or 7 gal pots.
This plant had just been up-canned into a 7 gal pot. Prior to that time she was living in 1 gal of kit soil and my "full-strength" drenches used 0.5 ml of G.E. or Trans. In her new home, I gave her 3.5 ml.
I've been feeding in the same dosages as you do, PITA.
I feed 3-4 ml of drench for a 6 gallon pot, and 0.3-0.4 of Tea. And they get thirsty every 4-5 days.
I mix the drench in an individual cup, the Tea in another. They get a couple cups of TransWater first, then the drench, the Tea, and topped off with TransWater. I do this slowly over several minutes to be sure the pot is fully soaked.
I feed 3-4 ml of drench for a 6 gallon pot, and 0.3-0.4 of Tea. And they get thirsty every 4-5 days.
I mix the drench in an individual cup, the Tea in another. They get a couple cups of TransWater first, then the drench, the Tea, and topped off with TransWater. I do this slowly over several minutes to be sure the pot is fully soaked.
NematodeNate
Well-Known Member
Hey gray so needing water every 4-5 days.......do ya drench them every time?
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- #9,445
Oh...POST OF THE YEAR!
Boom. You just explained it in the simplest, most logical way. We're mostly creating soil energy with the drenches, with trace elements and NPK a minor role.
Young plants do just as well in good soil as older plants, so the drenches remain the same excepting really young seedlings or fresh clones that have young roots that could get burned.
It's about the soil, not just the foliage.
- Thread starter
- #9,446
Here's today's work:
Early Bloom Pruning
I'm looking for 3 to 6 main tops. Usually ends up 3-4, with occasional 5's, except Grape Stomper which can have 6 easily. Either way, you want to encourage sound architecture early in veg, so the plant better utilizes the precious indoor lighting in the bloom room.
Before, front and top
After, front and top. Notice you can see down to the soil here and there. That's important. The plant will orient the branches in such a way that all of them get light, if you allow for it. That's why I don't rotate plants. They have to waste energy on phototropism. Prune them up so they can take advantage of the light!
Before, top, front and a look at the amount of leaves removed. We'll follow these along and see that they develop into some very shapely plants that will yield well and produce high quality flowers.
Other pics.
Early Bloom Pruning
I'm looking for 3 to 6 main tops. Usually ends up 3-4, with occasional 5's, except Grape Stomper which can have 6 easily. Either way, you want to encourage sound architecture early in veg, so the plant better utilizes the precious indoor lighting in the bloom room.
Before, front and top
After, front and top. Notice you can see down to the soil here and there. That's important. The plant will orient the branches in such a way that all of them get light, if you allow for it. That's why I don't rotate plants. They have to waste energy on phototropism. Prune them up so they can take advantage of the light!
Before, top, front and a look at the amount of leaves removed. We'll follow these along and see that they develop into some very shapely plants that will yield well and produce high quality flowers.
Other pics.
Thank you Doc, for these mini tutorials you keep posting on this technique. I'm really starting to warm to it and look forward to putting it to greater practice when I get up and running again after the holidays. I can tell you my current plants loved it and never skipped a beat. Just went right into growing amazing buds. I didn't start this early though, so next time I'll modify the approach.
Great teaching going on Doc. Oh yeah, you have us all excited about those sugar leaves.
Thanks for that too. 
Great teaching going on Doc. Oh yeah, you have us all excited about those sugar leaves.
Thanks for that too. 
flowerfarmer
Well-Known Member
I have a new journal and could use the help sexing these 501st OGs. I have the most space to work with yet. Thanks to the quality of the produce Doc's growing methods create this has been made possible.
Here is a pic of 707 Truthband at 3 weeks flower.
Here is a pic of 707 Truthband at 3 weeks flower.
GoldenEagle
Well-Known Member
I am in a similar situation at the moment. However my small grow space only allows me to focus on one plant at a time.
My understanding of run off is that it contains waste bi-products of the local soil food web that would normally travel deeper into the soil or carried away by an underground current to other plants in the area.
Which in turn explains why DocBud is recommending watering or feeding from the top and the bottom. Rather than through just the top like other watering/feeding schedules suggest.
Good morning Gang and happy Saturday to ya's. I thought i'de jump in and give my input as to how much Drench i use when it's time. My last drink for the ZH was 30 mls. CD for 1/2 kit's soil with 4 gal's H2O. So, i give 15mls. with 2 gal's. , then a few min's. later i give another 15mls. with another 2 gal's water. The second one gets the Tea mixed in as well. So the 30 mls is for each pot that's 26 gal's. I've found this amount of drench good for GE , Transpl., and the CD. As mentioned lots before it's very important to give water only in between Drenches once or twice in a row before going back to Drenches.Since we're all giving the low dose of Trans. (1/4 strength) every watering it can be easy to give too much. Remember with Indica's they like a bit more and Sativa's as we all know usually are light feeders so this is something to keep in mind also. Hope i've helped a bit .....have an awesome day all my brothas and SS.
Oh ya BTW....the resin....with my Zamal Hash plants....is piling on...just as it should now, so i'm stoked! Still no burnt tips or curly spotty leaves
Oh ya BTW....the resin....with my Zamal Hash plants....is piling on...just as it should now, so i'm stoked! Still no burnt tips or curly spotty leaves
I think most of us water/drench from both the top and bottom whenever possible. However, if your goal is to make sure any waste materials are "flushed", I believe top-only is more effective, as long as the volume of water is the same. The reason for dunking is not for better flushing. It is to make sure the pot gets fully saturated before you drain it.
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- #9,452
True on the dunking....the saturation is what we're after. But it's also the best way to flush.....
I'd dunk the blooming plants if it was practical to do so. The saucers are the best compromise and by their nature, they conserve drenches a great deal.
Budley Dorite
Well-Known Member
So Doc,
Do you do you just keep topping off the saucer til she she quits drinking? A little up top a little down low and so on?
Do you do you just keep topping off the saucer til she she quits drinking? A little up top a little down low and so on?
I got this white out on the tip of two colas, looks like a trichome party. But really, what the heck is going on here? I've never had this happen before. Oh yeah, it's a nearly finished (or is it, hehe) Blue Kush from Dinafem Seeds in HiBrix kit. Looks like an alien head...
hashtips..XS light
Re: Almost on par...
mysteryseeds, are the comparisons with same lights?
Doc,
Just finished my first full-HB grow, and I'm impressed to say the least. Never did I have to worry about pests or deficiencies or pH'ing my water. Simple. Effective. Dank. For that, I thank you.
Working at a shop, a grow, and in my own closet has exposed me to pot from all over Colorado. That said, the stuff that comes of my closet beats almost everything except the choice buds coming from the hydro grow where I work. Let's compare apples and oranges:
My HB closet grow. Papaya #1 and #2.
The ladies where I work. Grown hydroponically in 8" rockwool cubes. In order of appearance: F'N Wrecked, Animal Cookies, Death Star, Hell's Fire #2, and Hell's Fire #1.
Though the buds at work appear frostier, I attribute most of that to genetics (Papaya vs. Hell's Fire is not a fair comparison). I'm growing the same cut of Animal Cookies and Flo that we grow at work in my 2nd flower tent. When those finish in about two weeks, we'll have to compare apples to apples.
I'll stop back with a smoke report when the buds finish drying and curing.
Until then, may the brix be with you.
mysteryseeds, are the comparisons with same lights?
- Thread starter
- #9,456
Watering tech for bloom: (it's also found on the "In the lab" thread, early on.)
When first transplanting into final container, saturate the medium and let it go nearly dry once. Saturate again, and going by weight let it dry out again....except this time dribble small amounts of water from the top to keep the soil slightly moist. I'm talking like a pint a day. Dehumidifier water is perfect. You still want the pot to get really light, but never again do we want it to go bone dry.
This time (second watering) and every additional watering goes like this in my garden. I use 7 gallon pots.
1. Mix up drench so that there is a gallon for each plant. For me it's usually about 1 to 1.5 oz in 6 gallons of water, along with Tea and 1/4 oz Transplant.
2. Slowly drip about 1/3 gallon down the top, fill the saucer with the rest.
....they should suck up that water up in about 20 minutes if you watered at the right time, not too early. By gently dribbling the top water and not just sloshing it on, we keep the soil super loose and aerated. It won't compact too bad if you only top water....I used to drench them heavily from the top. But doing it this way will avoid even small degrees of compaction and creates super optimal root conditions.
Another problem we'll start to see now that Fall is well under way, is people growing on concrete slabs and having what appear to be phosphorus deficiencies. The roots are simply too cold and the soil goes dormant. Either have your containers up in the air on a tray, or put some styrofoam insulation between pots and concrete. A plastic tray on the floor won't work. You need a "gap" between the concrete heat sink and the soil.
"They're gonna get silly looking."... they're already silly looking...they will get 'ridiculous', I'm sure!
Budley Dorite
Well-Known Member
Doc.Doc, what is the issue with even numbered leaves you mentioned a bit ago?
- Thread starter
- #9,460
We should always have odd numbered leaves: 5,7,9....I had a weird purple Chitral thing once that had 13 bladed fan leaves.
Anyways, young plants will start with a single leaf, then 3, then 5, then 7. Even numbers are signs of stress, usually having to do with photoperiod or other light related issues.
Only take clones of stems that have nice, 5 bladed or more leaves. Never 3's, 4's 6's etc.