Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc-
High Brix worms? :cheesygrinsmiley:
I am working in our garden and keep running into worms. I'm wondering if you have any experience with them in a HB grow. My first thought is they would be beneficial. Then I wondered if the soil (after cook) is too hot, or has something they wouldn't like. Also, might the drenches be more than they can take? I could add a bunch, but don't want to send them to their doom.
 
Doc-
High Brix worms? :cheesygrinsmiley:
I am working in our garden and keep running into worms. I'm wondering if you have any experience with them in a HB grow. My first thought is they would be beneficial. Then I wondered if the soil (after cook) is too hot, or has something they wouldn't like. Also, might the drenches be more than they can take? I could add a bunch, but don't want to send them to their doom.

If everything is going right, insects will march out of your garden, and worms will slither in! The soil is far from hot! The drenches do not harm the worms.

Where do people get these ideas?
 
Where do people get these ideas?

I can only speak for myself. For me, it is ignorance - plain and simple. I find asking questions the best way to learn and/or confirm ideas, and that's what this thread is all about - no? I've read the HB journals but still don't have any first-hand experience with it...yet.
When I hear a soil needs to "cook" before use, I think possibly "hot". When I see worms flee from wet soil (even porous, well-drained soil) due to rain or heavy watering, and then hear "drench", I think worms might find the soil moisture too high.
 
I can only speak for myself. For me, it is ignorance - plain and simple. I find asking questions the best way to learn and/or confirm ideas, and that's what this thread is all about - no? I've read the HB journals but still don't have any first-hand experience with it...yet.
When I hear a soil needs to "cook" before use, I think possibly "hot". When I see worms flee from wet soil (even porous, well-drained soil) due to rain or heavy watering, and then hear "drench", I think worms might find the soil moisture too high.

Well, the worms always come up when it's wet...they need to breathe! Also, the first 2 weeks of "cooking" is a very turbulent, troublesome time in the soil and planting is NOT recommended until the reactions all finish.

If you were a farmer, we'd put the broadcast down in late fall, after harvest, and the soil would weather all winter, warm up and "cook" in early Spring and then be ready for planting. When we cook the soil, we're merely speeding up that process. What takes 2-3 years outdoors can happen in 30 days indoors.

But let me make a few general statements in order to clear up some of the misinformation I've heard being said about my kit lately:
(These statements are not directed at you!)

1. There are no "synthetics" in my kit. Simple, naturally occuring salts are not synthetic! (unless you believe the ocean and naturally occuring mineral deposits are synthetic) Hydolyzed cold water fish is not synthetic. Minerals are not synthetic either. Everything in the kit is natural, most of it is organic is the political sense in most states.

2. The soil is too hot? I have no idea where this rumor started, but the soil is anything but hot. By any normal measure the soil is not hot enough! It takes vigorous biota to get any nutrition out of the soil. It's the opposite of "hot."

3. Drenches will harm biota. Utter nonsense. Drenches enhance and feed biota. That's what they're designed for!

4. By not having a SWICK or by letting pots dry out all the biota will dies. Bullshit. Utter nonsense. Bags of soil at the nursery don't have SWICKS attached. Granular myco products are shipped and stored dry....no SWICK attached. Finally, THE PLANT FEEDS THE MYCO, DURING TIMES OF DROUGHT OR TIMES OF RAIN. THESE ARE NATURAL CYCLES AND ARE ACTUALLY VERY GOOD FOR THE PLANT AND SOIL.

There are some other myths and misinformation floating around too, but these are the ones that are starting to bug me. I have no idea who is starting these rumors about my products, but they are false statements. I assume they are a result of ignorance and not malfeasance.

I'll remind everyone that I've been at this a while, have many years of education, most of it at the post graduate level AND I work closely with a lab whose mission is to heal soil of all types all over the world by re-mineralization and biological activity.

I have not subscribed to a "style" of growing. I am following proven science with a massive amount of field experience to back up the science. Practices change, ingredients change, methods evolve. As anyone who has used my products will tell you, they work as advertised.
 
I have a question and I figured this may be a good place for it if you don't mind Doc ;)
I put this question to experienced growers that have experimented with crossing strains, pollinating, etc.
Q: Can I take a genetically prone hermie strain and pollinate it with a male from a strong strain and get a stronger, less prone to hermie result? Of course keeping all other variables the same as much as one can control. Some pointers as to how to proceed or a good information source for this kind of thing would be appreciated as well :Love:

Thanks for your responses :)
:peace:

FWIW, a plant that hermies regularly despite environmental conditions isn't usually selected for breeding as that trait is considered a dominant trait, and will proliferate in most if not all its progeny.

Hey so there's a possibility I may not stay on here I respect some of you guys on here. So here's one of my random Emails I'd you would like to stay in touch. Thanks again doc.


Thedrysloughband@gmail.com

Same boat...I get it.
 
Doc, You are gaining fame and many people are being drawn in :) They have many varied backgrounds ranging from no experience to lots of experience, many of them indoctrinated with information that simply does not apply...thus as you stated some ignorance and some bullheadedness. I appreciate the years of experience and the science behind your work - I am learning a lot.
Thanks for sharing it.
 
FWIW, a plant that hermies regularly despite environmental conditions isn't usually selected for breeding as that trait is considered a dominant trait, and will proliferate in most if not all its progeny.
Thanks for the information. This fits in with the history of the strain to which I am referring and how I got my hands on it in the first place. :)
 
I don't think anyone on here is out to "get" Doc or his products. We merely have questions, most based in ignorance. I can read until I'm blue in the face, but it doesn't stick with me nearly as well as when I learn by actually doing. I realize you aren't directing your statements and frustration solely at me. Still, I'm sorry if my HB worm question contributed to crossing the tipping point. I am here to learn and try to support others interested in doing the same - no other agenda.
 
Tav did it! i kid i kid....

Doc I think these things are happening as a result of a few major factors:

-you are become more popular quickly

-the content regarding the kit aside from the brief instructions is pretty unorganized and decentralized, with no sort of ongoing narrative to guide it in terms of reference (its just gotten really big!)

-this forum is pretty popular, meaning there is a significant % of trolls, internet warriors (their grows are on the internet, and in their fantasies), and then actual growers representing every method under the sun

-combine the last 2 and wires gonna cross.

I'm not blaming you for these things, I don't think anyone is DOING it to you.

I've noticed quite a few people want to come into the High Brix threads and talk about what they are doing whether its relevant or not, posting pages of copy/pasted research, often just seeking discussion. All in good fun and spirits but distracting to say the least some times.

There are a couple major questions that often crop up that could be addressed in "how to use the kit" as well as another revision imo. With hundreds and hundreds of pages to process, there must be some salient points that can be added to a 1 page instruction. Maybe an FAQ.

Without successful efforts (which I'm sure you have no time for) to better manage the information flow, I fear you may be in for more of the same. Try not to let it get to ya, those of us actually doing it aren't going anywhere.
 
Re: Tav did it! i kid i kid....

Doc I think these things are happening as a result of a few major factors:

-you are become more popular quickly

-the content regarding the kit aside from the brief instructions is pretty unorganized and decentralized, with no sort of ongoing narrative to guide it in terms of reference (its just gotten really big!)

-this forum is pretty popular, meaning there is a significant % of trolls, internet warriors (their grows are on the internet, and in their fantasies), and then actual growers representing every method under the sun

-combine the last 2 and wires gonna cross.

I'm not blaming you for these things, I don't think anyone is DOING it to you.

I've noticed quite a few people want to come into the High Brix threads and talk about what they are doing whether its relevant or not, posting pages of copy/pasted research, often just seeking discussion. All in good fun and spirits but distracting to say the least some times.

There are a couple major questions that often crop up that could be addressed in "how to use the kit" as well as another revision imo. With hundreds and hundreds of pages to process, there must be some salient points that can be added to a 1 page instruction. Maybe an FAQ.

Without successful efforts (which I'm sure you have no time for) to better manage the information flow, I fear you may be in for more of the same. Try not to let it get to ya, those of us actually doing it aren't going anywhere.

THANK YOU! My thoughts exactly.

I'll be working on all of that. I thought I had it handled about a year ago.....but clearly some updating needs to happen. I very much appreciate your comments and believe you are SPOT ON with your analysis.
 
If I may be so bold as to offer a coupe of ideas:
Many of us can't, or won't be growing 6 plants in 7 gal. pots. How about guidelines for using the products under other circumstances?
Whenever possible, standardize units of measure. Some are in ml. Some are in oz., Some are per plant. Some are per kit. Some are per gal. or sq. ft. of soil. I understand this won't always be possible, but when it isn't, perhaps a brief explanation of why it isn't and how to best to calculate the correct amount. We might be able to apply that kind if info to a range of pot sizes, numbers of plants, etc.
What each product in the kit does and how it works with the other items.
Some of this is already already covered in the instructions. These seem to be the kind of questions I see confusion over.
(not trying to add to frustration levels)
:Namaste:
 
If I may be so bold as to offer a coupe of ideas:
Many of us can't, or won't be growing 6 plants in 7 gal. pots. How about guidelines for using the products under other circumstances?
Whenever possible, standardize units of measure. Some are in ml. Some are in oz., Some are per plant. Some are per kit. Some are per gal. or sq. ft. of soil. I understand this won't always be possible, but when it isn't, perhaps a brief explanation of why it isn't and how to best to calculate the correct amount. We might be able to apply that kind if info to a range of pot sizes, numbers of plants, etc.
What each product in the kit does and how it works with the other items.
Some of this is already already covered in the instructions. These seem to be the kind of questions I see confusion over.
(not trying to add to frustration levels)
:Namaste:

you're not adding anything but valid observations and good advice! Thank you.

One of the problems is that these products are designed for large operations. The lowest measurement used for the mineral broadcast is per 1000 sq ft. I've had to tickle and play with numbers quite a bit to get it into the 6 plant range.

The other problem is that feeding schedules are designed around quarts of drenches to many gallons of water via fertigation or sprayers. Again, lots of tickling, trial and error to get it into the hobby growers range.

The lab assumes a certain level of experience and expertise on the part of the end user and I'm trying to take their talk of titration, soil voltage and so forth and put it into jargon that all of us can understand.

It's time to re-state things in different, newer and more complete terms.

Thanks and I'm working on it! I'd love a proof reader? ????
 
Doc, the instructions you have linked in your sig are actually very good. Firm it up just a bit with some support info and throw it in the beginning of the thread and hope for the best.

The term "cooking" is such a misnomer, but it's industry wide. Conjures up all types of unnecessary heat-related concerns. We should invent a better one.

From the perspective of a LOS gardener, the list of ingredients gives us pause. Just a pause, as we research the origins and usage of these ingredients to assure ourselves that we are not causing damage to our tiny ecologies. You must admit, the use of synthetic fertilizers in agriculture has devastated the SFW in too many places in our world. We're an extremely cautious group. We think of our soil as a living thing, and your living soil looks and acts differently from what we're familiar with.

If I didn't believe that there were other ways to grow plants I would have returned the kit. As it stands - HANDS OFF!!! This is my choice.
 
you're not adding anything but valid observations and good advice! Thank you.

One of the problems is that these products are designed for large operations. The lowest measurement used for the mineral broadcast is per 1000 sq ft. I've had to tickle and play with numbers quite a bit to get it into the 6 plant range.

The other problem is that feeding schedules are designed around quarts of drenches to many gallons of water via fertigation or sprayers. Again, lots of tickling, trial and error to get it into the hobby growers range.

The lab assumes a certain level of experience and expertise on the part of the end user and I'm trying to take their talk of titration, soil voltage and so forth and put it into jargon that all of us can understand.

It's time to re-state things in different, newer and more complete terms.

Thanks and I'm working on it! I'd love a proof reader? ????

Proofreading is one of my better talents Doc. I'd be honored.
 
I'm happy to proof read. My HB ignorance might actually come in handy. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
maybe several proof readers can be used based on levels of grow experience and kit usage. :)

Yes...

Proofreading is one of my better talents Doc. I'd be honored.

Yes...

I'm happy to proof read. My HB ignorance might actually come in handy. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Yes...Your posts are easy to understand and your thought process seems to be in-line with my own.

Looks like the potential for a Doc Bud's HiBrix Kit User's Guide core team being formed here. When it comes to written instructions, more is almost always better.
 
I'm happy to help. I can offer the view of someone with zero experience who hasn't grown before. Timing is good, first batch of soil is ready :) and I managed to fit a CLW880 and P600 in a 4x4 :)
 
Yes...



Yes...



Yes...Your posts are easy to understand and your thought process seems to be in-line with my own.

Looks like the potential for a Doc Bud's HiBrix Kit User's Guide core team being formed here. When it comes to written instructions, more is almost always better.

Believe it or not I'm actually really good at paring it back to the fewest words and maximum clarity. I know - you'd never guess that from my posts. LOL

My son always runs his university papers past his mother first. I may not understand them but I make them sound and read better. I think Governmentchz is on to something here Doc. A support team.
 
I'll help out to if you want there are a couple things I think could be stated in a more simple manor like 1ml brix or strees per 1oz of water instead of all the calculations :)
 
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