Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey doc can ya check out his soil and tell me if it's on track.....I mixed on Sunday. And put some trimming dusted with roots in on Monday. The container is upstairs @72 degrees....I have no condensation on the lid....but I definently got the fuzz already. Especially where I got a little roots on the soil where I dusted the cuttings.....I know the roots helps the process. I guess I just haven't seen anyone with fuzz after 4 days and no condensation....oh yeah house is at 42% RH. Thanks again......
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NematodeNate said:
Hey doc can ya check out his soil and tell me if it's on track.....I mixed on Sunday. And put some trimming dusted with roots in on Monday. The container is upstairs @72 degrees....I have no condensation on the lid....but I definently got the fuzz already. Especially where I got a little roots on the soil where I dusted the cuttings.....I know the roots helps the process. I guess I just haven't seen anyone with fuzz after 4 days and no condensation....oh yeah house is at 42% RH. Thanks again......
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It's alive. You're good!
 
Hash Hound said:
Doc.

My partner has no wifi access.

Will any of these vids be available for a download anywhere so I can DL them and show them to him?
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Probably? I really don't know, someone else is getting it all set up and filming, etc.
 
Rite on....and awesome......I had a little doubt.....I ended up using the promix that had 08/2014 on it.....I did do some research and promix said that their product is good for 6-9 months after production.....I'm assuming the date on the bag would b a born on date not an expiration date....but that is just an assumption........thanks again doc can't wait to get growing.....
 
I pondered everything you told me yesterday, Doc! Eventully I figured I'm not gonna fertilize my patches at all apart of calcium carbonate and trace minerals in organic form as my loam is rich anyway, so more nutrients are not desired. While my plants should have sucked out a lot of potassium there last year, the level of it will be lower, so I guess it's as good as it gets as I don't have the means to flush it all out, can only wait for the rain.

One thing is not clear for me, I get that High Brix soil cannot exceed 10% of organic matter. But is it enough for bacterial activity? Microbes nitrificate stuff in the end and they make minerals soluble for the plants' roots, which should in theory equal better absorbtion of micronutrients. But you mentioned that they feed on them, so is there a breaking point of some sort here? Also mycorrhizae work much better in soil where phosphorus levels do not exceed middle range, which means adding more is counterproductive to maximalizing the soil's potential if you rely on healthy biota. So shall I rather squeeze the soil resources that way in order to achieve higher Brix? Well, it's all purely theoretical before I see a first Brix reading, but at least there's a goal here :)
 
Doc, do you know whats the maximum number of times one can flip from growth to reproduction, and back, using GE-->Cat, before genetics runs the plants' cycle to its end?
Is the rx similar with the foliars as is flipping the drenches? What I mean is does flipping from growth foliars to reproduction foliars give soil more energy than does maintaining the phase..does using Brix when drenching with GE benefit more than if you were using Brix w Cat, or it makes no difference?
 
conradino23 said:
I pondered everything you told me yesterday, Doc! Eventully I figured I'm not gonna fertilize my patches at all apart of calcium carbonate and trace minerals in organic form as my loam is rich anyway, so more nutrients are not desired. While my plants should have sucked out a lot of potassium there last year, the level of it will be lower, so I guess it's as good as it gets as I don't have the means to flush it all out, can only wait for the rain.

One thing is not clear for me, I get that High Brix soil cannot exceed 10% of organic matter. But is it enough for bacterial activity? Microbes nitrificate stuff in the end and they make minerals soluble for the plants' roots, which should in theory equal better absorbtion of micronutrients. But you mentioned that they feed on them, so is there a breaking point of some sort here? Also mycorrhizae work much better in soil where phosphorus levels do not exceed middle range, which means adding more is counterproductive to maximalizing the soil's potential if you rely on healthy biota. So shall I rather squeeze the soil resources that way in order to achieve higher Brix? Well, it's all purely theoretical before I see a first Brix reading, but at least there's a goal here :)
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Your plants are gorgeous.....

Italian soil---I'm told by an Italian who grows veggies with my gear---is volcanic, calciferous soil. So it's very cool you get to use it!

As to phosphorus, it all depends on what form you add. In my practice, the phosphorus is mostly from Soft Rock Phosphate and fish juice, with only a small amount of phosphates during a 2 week phase.

In that form, there is no negative effect at all with biota....none.

But remember, the "range" we're looking for is thus:

Calcium 18
phosphorus 1
potassium 1

So, in a sense it's "low P" soil and high "Ca" soil.
 
DrZiggy said:
Doc, have you ever taken video using time lapse photography of your plants?
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Not yet Zigs.....

DrZiggy said:
Doc, do you know whats the maximum number of times one can flip from growth to reproduction, and back, using GE-->Cat, before genetics runs the plants' cycle to its end?
Is the rx similar with the foliars as is flipping the drenches? What I mean is does flipping from growth foliars to reproduction foliars give soil more energy than does maintaining the phase..does using Brix when drenching with GE benefit more than if you were using Brix w Cat, or it makes no difference?
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The lab recommends playing one off the other with drenches and foliars. As for the cross mixing you're suggesting....sounds like a nice little experiment!
 
Doc Bud said:
Your plants are gorgeous.....

Italian soil---I'm told by an Italian who grows veggies with my gear---is volcanic, calciferous soil. So it's very cool you get to use it!

As to phosphorus, it all depends on what form you add. In my practice, the phosphorus is mostly from Soft Rock Phosphate and fish juice, with only a small amount of phosphates during a 2 week phase.

In that form, there is no negative effect at all with biota....none.

But remember, the "range" we're looking for is thus:

Calcium 18
phosphorus 1
potassium 1

So, in a sense it's "low P" soil and high "Ca" soil.
Click to expand...

Thanx a lot Doc, although I still think they can do much better :) Which is what brought me to following this thread. I came this way really, cause I've been thinking first about dropping this phosphorus thing, and regulate nitrogen better, which started me thinking on this potassium thing :lot-o-toke: And it makes sense to me really, even if I still want to to stay in true organic territory. Yeah I believe it should be counted by cannabis growers as N-P-K-Ca really to make sense of it all, and reminds me of my first indoor grow done 12 or 13 years ago with two lame CFLs, when I used potting soil, EWC and powdered egg shells (97% calcium carbonate and trace minerals), and I had no deficiencies, wonderfully smelling weed, even if I scored an ounce or two at the end :laugh: I think I'm gonna start using refractometer, and I can take it from there. Our soil is indeed quite good, someone on this forum said it's like Hawaiian, but unfortunately I don't know nothing about smoke from there, cause I never saw it in my life :)

But yeah what I wanted to say that you helped me a lot to see a possible direction in growing, and if it works I'm gonna be even more grateful. In the end this plant evolved as a weed literally, and was growing all over Siberia and China, so it couldn't have high nutrient demands, which I think is still true about many hybrids. Anyway, top of my best bud too you, even if it's very wispy, but I wouldn't change this Himalayan sativa for anything else fat or frosty :lot-o-toke: They believe over there that Shiva discovered this plant and they might be right about it :lot-o-toke: Your Willie Nelson is half Nepalese Highland if I remember well, so this genetics surely comes through :)

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:Namaste:
 
36Gr0w said:
Doc,

What do you use as a sulfer source, and in what form (s) is it delivered?
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Several sources: Gypsum, Ammonium Sulfate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate, epsom salts (if needed) and a touch of K-mag in the amendment, along with biochar.
 
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