Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I keep wondering how much quality gets sacrificed trying to get higher yields? My sense is that the plant doesn't want to be stressed and if left to its own devices and given optimal growing conditions will reward you with substantial increases in potency. I have no scientific basis to make such an assertion. It just resonates within me as truth. Watching HB grows and unmolested LOS grows has reaffirmed that sense.

Edit: My thoughts were more about LST than topping. Topping makes perfect sense to me.
 
I keep wondering how much quality gets sacrificed trying to get higher yields? My sense is that the plant doesn't want to be stressed and if left to its own devices and given optimal growing conditions will reward you with substantial increases in potency. I have no scientific basis to make such an assertion. It just resonates within me as truth. Watching HB grows and unmolested LOS grows has reaffirmed that sense.

Edit: My thoughts were more about LST than topping. Topping makes perfect sense to me.

I am in full agreement.
 
I agree but I don't think bottled nutes sacrifice potency. I mag be wrong as well. I'd like to think doing very little to it would create a great product but even with hb and Los there is still alot of work if not more.


Some stress is needed though. Letting them almost wilt seeking water at times is stress to a point. But a good stress.
 
I agree but I don't think bottled nutes sacrifice potency. I mag be wrong as well. I'd like to think doing very little to it would create a great product but even with hb and Los there is still alot of work if not more.


Some stress is needed though. Letting them almost wilt seeking water at times is stress to a point. But a good stress.


I think bottled nutes can definitely have high THC. NO question about that. But the terpenes are much more varied and "out front" in the organic type grows. Once, we thought it was all THC. The we learned about CBD and CBN....what about all those other cannabinols and terpenes? I'll bet the truly medical effects only come about in a nutrient dense package of some sort.
 
I don't know about that Dutty. I understand that it's been accepted growing technique with cannabis to let them dry out, but mine defied that construct and thrived beyond my wildest expectations when given easy access to as much water as they required. I think with me it may well be that Mother Earth thing I always have in the background. My drive in life is to reduce stress and increase joy, so I may just be carrying that over into my growing technique. There's no denying my results. If I continue to improve as I go on, which should be expected, and I repeat that success with a variety of strains, maybe I'm on to something with that SWICK.

I think all living things appreciate easy access to water.
 
I don't know about that Dutty. I understand that it's been accepted growing technique with cannabis to let them dry out, but mine defied that construct and thrived beyond my wildest expectations when given easy access to as much water as they required. I think with me it may well be that Mother Earth thing I always have in the background. My drive in life is to reduce stress and increase joy, so I may just be carrying that over into my growing technique. There's no denying my results. If I continue to improve as I go on, which should be expected, and I repeat that success with a variety of strains, maybe I'm on to something with that SWICK.

I think all living things appreciate easy access to water.

It's a good practice when trying to control and manage canopy height to build a large root structure, and the way to do that is to let them dry out.

In nature, we have wet and dry seasons....and if applied properly, the plants actually do better with the right kind of stress.
 
I think we are all correct. That being said. The biggest thing I agree with is the cannbinols and terpenes I truly believe open up different neurons in our brain so certain strains effect others differently I've seen this with my own eyes and my own body.
 
As have I.
 
My chocolate fondue got me so stupid compared to my Dutch and there terpene profiles are similar but cbn and Cbg are different


More people on here need to test so we can build a catalog of results and effects.
 
It's a good practice when trying to control and manage canopy height to build a large root structure, and the way to do that is to let them dry out.

In nature, we have wet and dry seasons....and if applied properly, the plants actually do better with the right kind of stress.

Ahh, the cycle of life. One more fully appreciates the high points because you've been to some of the valleys, only applied to plants. OK, I get that. I never was good at disciplining our children either. Instead, I raised them to be self-managed, which thankfully worked out for them. I did the same kind of thing with my grow. I think this part of growing will be more difficult for me to allow myself to learn. At what points does one withhold easy water access?
 
How about in person?

It varies by strain but usually call me crazy but you've seen my results. I pull most not all most fan leaves that have a shoot or site whatever over 1.5" roughly. I try and create a uniform canopy that simulates nature to some extent you will see with your own hands Saturday I'll have you defoilate one of my HandG plants.
 
Hey 36Gr0w I'm gonna take some pics tomorrow of the defoilation of some plants at week 5. None will be high brix yet but I'll post here anyways. But they full documentation and step by step I'll put in my monthly garden thread.
 
It's all about keeping potassium to one 18th of calcium and keeping potassium and phosphorus equal with eachother. Nowadays, our soils are so poor that we have to worry about excess potassium far more than in the past, which is why the ratio has been adopted. It has as much to to with the modern testing methods as with the corporately farmed soil.



Ideal soil:

Calcium 4000lbs per acre
Magnesium 400 (500 for our crop)
Potassium and Phosphorus 240
pH 6.5 for our crop.
Humus 6-8%

Right, so I guess my question is, is if you put the soil in proper ratio using rock phosphates and green sand for the P and K, how do the sprays/drenches encourage growth? They sound like they are just ferts with higher NPK values.
 
Right, so I guess my question is, is if you put the soil in proper ratio using rock phosphates and green sand for the P and K, how do the sprays/drenches encourage growth? They sound like they are just ferts with higher NPK values.

Doc, correct me if I'm wrong..

The drenches change the ionic balance toward growth energy or reproductive energy.

The sprays influence the roots to produce exudes influencing the biota in the soil to breakdown nutrients to a readily available source for the roots.:Namaste:
 
Doc, I'm digging the whole low potassium thing, but are you sure phosphorus should be in equal ppm to potassium? Let me put it like that, I'm starting to see basic soil's NPK as 3-1-2, with healhy biota in the soil and abundance of calcium carbonate, magnesium, silica etc. Would you say it's in the ball park or phosphorus should be brought up a bit? I've read some soil analysis where they stated 50-85 ppm of phosphorus as perfect for plant's growth, overabundance of this mineral being as bad as too much potassium and nitrogen. What I want to do this season is to start measuring Brix to see what's happening with metabolism, but I'll be doing it outdoor, which brings me to another question, Doc. I've read a lot of times that applying ProMix + EWC approach outdoor doesn't cut it, cause plants eat that for breakfast when growing. Could that be that with bigger plants need for potassium is bigger, cause they need much more nitrogen and phosphorus for sure? Just pondering this thought, but maybe you could answer that as I just applied organic calcium carbonate and crushed volcanic rock, some blood meal, and want to move towards EWC and bat guano, although I'd add just a touch, maybe an ounce per foot square. What do you think?
 
Doc, all conditions perfect, what size pot or bed would be best for a hi brix grow? I know you answered this before but I can't find it. Is 7 going to get optimal results, or will upping the pot/bed size increase plant performance?

Indoors 7 gallons is the minimum size.
Outdoors, a 10x10x3 bed is the optimum size for one plant. If done right, this will give in excess of 4 pounds per plant. Obviously, smaller beds can be used.
 
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