Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

COorganics said:
Like Willard's water?
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Sounds different this claim was that it was turning H20 into H3O2 by either some cooling almost freezing process or a machine. Sounds like voodoo to me but I have no idea :)
 
DrZiggy said:
Doc, have you ever tested any HB weed for mineral content Vs. Non HB grown?
Also, Have you ever took Brix readings of any buds?
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I've never tested for mineral content, because that's basically what testing brix does. I have squeezed buds, but generally only when pistils are first shooting out, as part of a pruning.
 
Doc, Is it possible after I buried the seedling stems with soil and had a fan blow on low on the seedlings, It accelerated the roots? The plants seem to have stabilized quickly(also to slight stem thickening) and a noticeable growth spurt, as though the extra little rootlings are quickly adding to the plants growth.
 
36Gr0w said:
Hey Doc,

How often are you testing for brix lately? Are you tracking the results and comparing between strains and feedings?
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Whenever I prune, I test, so each group of plants has at least one plant tested 2 or 3 times during the grow. Once in veg, usually twice in bloom.
 
Hi guys.
Could all you guys with you massive amount of combined knowledge please stop by my high brix journal. I just started it but will be adding a ton of pics and such this evening.
 
Dutty Panty said:
Hi guys.
Could all you guys with you massive amount of combined knowledge please stop by my high brix journal. I just started it but will be adding a ton of pics and such this evening.
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That lets me out. But I'd like to stop by and look over your shoulder. :)
 
Pics. Plants are still alive!

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Doc, I apologize if this has been asked, I've read a lot of your journals and have not seen this, but I'm sure someone asked... is your kit best suited for LED lights? And, are there better strains for your soil, or will any adapt?

Thank you!
 
petergreen said:
Doc, I apologize if this has been asked, I've read a lot of your journals and have not seen this, but I'm sure someone asked... is your kit best suited for LED lights? And, are there better strains for your soil, or will any adapt?

Thank you!
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Only answering because I've skimmed through most his log. LED lights are fine. Better strains for high brix tend to be land races and herloom type strains / pure breed, but don't let that stop you from using it overall.

Hey, doc, I got a question for you. Currently on page 135 of the Q&A thread, do these people at the lab testing place tell you why your sprays are reproductive or vegative signaling? I've read through Albrecht's work and wondering if you give all the needed P and K to the soil in the form of rock phosphates and green sand in the proper ratio, are the sprays needed? Curious how they signal growth if at all possible.
 
BreezeEazy said:
Only answering because I've skimmed through most his log. LED lights are fine. Better strains for high brix tend to be land races and herloom type strains / pure breed, but don't let that stop you from using it overall.

Hey, doc, I got a question for you. Currently on page 135 of the Q&A thread, do these people at the lab testing place tell you why your sprays are reproductive or vegative signaling? I've read through Albrecht's work and wondering if you give all the needed P and K to the soil in the form of rock phosphates and green sand in the proper ratio, are the sprays needed? Curious how they signal growth if at all possible.
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It's all about the phosphates and calcium in the Brix spray....which favor reproductive growth. In fact, this spray is NOT RECOMMENDED for green leafy vegetables and root vegetables because it causes them to bolt.

In the DeStress, it's all about the kelp and the PGR's from the kelp, which tend to the growth side. We do not use any of the other foliars for our particular crop, but there are a half dozen of them.

You are correct about the strains, etc.

Albrecht was into a base cation balancing idea, while Reams took that and went into a ratio concept. Both methods tend to arrive at the same destination, but Albrecht's method is WAY TOO HIGH in potassium for most soils these days, especially corporate farmed soil and commercial potting soil or other mediums that went nuts with the compost.
 
Doc Bud said:
It's all about the phosphates and calcium in the Brix spray....which favor reproductive growth. In fact, this spray is NOT RECOMMENDED for green leafy vegetables and root vegetables because it causes them to bolt.

In the DeStress, it's all about the kelp and the PGR's from the kelp, which tend to the growth side. We do not use any of the other foliars for our particular crop, but there are a half dozen of them.

You are correct about the strains, etc.

Albrecht was into a base cation balancing idea, while Reams took that and went into a ratio concept. Both methods tend to arrive at the same destination, but Albrecht's method is WAY TOO HIGH in potassium for most soils these days, especially corporate farmed soil and commercial potting soil or other mediums that went nuts with the compost.
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Okay, I see now. Calcium nitrate for growth, and calcium + phosphates/phosphoric acid for reproductive. Kelp is potassium so that is interesting for destress. So what is the ratio of P:K if you don't mind me asking. I figured Albrecht for a guy that was percise and took anatomic weight into account where Reams was ratios, or more of a guess. Alrebecht and I think Ag labs for high brix recommend P and K to be equal ppm. Albrecht took into account the anatomic weight of P and I think recommends 1.5-2:1 - P:K.
 
BreezeEazy said:
Okay, I see now. Calcium nitrate for growth, and calcium + phosphates/phosphoric acid for reproductive. Kelp is potassium so that is interesting for destress. So what is the ratio of P:K if you don't mind me asking. I figured Albrecht for a guy that was percise and took anatomic weight into account where Reams was ratios, or more of a guess. Alrebecht and I think Ag labs for high brix recommend P and K to be equal ppm. Albrecht took into account the anatomic weight of P and I think recommends 1.5-2:1 - P:K.
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It's all about keeping potassium to one 18th of calcium and keeping potassium and phosphorus equal with eachother. Nowadays, our soils are so poor that we have to worry about excess potassium far more than in the past, which is why the ratio has been adopted. It has as much to to with the modern testing methods as with the corporately farmed soil.

DR. ALBRECHT

"The significant truth that brings soil fertility into control of the composition of our food, and therefore our health, comes out of the facts that in soils under construction by the limited climatic forces, or those with a wide calcium-potassium ratio, proteinaceous and mineral-rich crops and foods as well as carbonaceous ones are possible, and that in soils under destruction by excessive climate forces, or those with a narrow calcium-potassium ratio, protein production is not so common while production mainly of carbohydrates by crops"
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Ideal soil:

Calcium 4000lbs per acre
Magnesium 400 (500 for our crop)
Potassium and Phosphorus 240
pH 6.5 for our crop.
Humus 6-8%
 
organicgrowr said:
Hey Doc, just wondering if you would do any topping or lsting during a 12-12 from seed grow? If so when would an ideal time be to do so? Thanks
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Yep! I learned this one the hard way.

You can top, but do it very early, like when there's 5 true nodes. If you do it much later than that you can really mess things up and get 3 bladed leaves and a weird bud structure. If you really get it too late, you'll get single bladed leaves.

There's no need for LST, the plants grow straight up. Plan for it. It's very easy to manage.
 
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