Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I really don't like dolomite. Most potting soils are pH balanced already, and while the organic material added for fertilizer tends to acidfy the soil, the limestone works better in every way for pH balance, as well as the energy for growth.

As far as the tea goes, it really doesn't matter too much. The important thing is to get the biology going.
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So I would be better of mixing in srp, gysum and azomite now and top dressing limestone when it gets here.
I liked the sock idea better as I won't have to strain it before I use it.

Thanks
Smooth
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Smooth1 said:
So I would be better of mixing in srp, gysum and azomite now and top dressing limestone when it gets here.
I liked the sock idea better as I won't have to strain it before I use it.

Thanks
Smooth
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Yeah, you could do that. But I wouldn't. I'd just go with SRP this time and wait till next time to get all of 'em in there together.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Does anyone here start plants in a greenhouse and then move them outside? I did last year with the old high brix method and it worked pretty well. Trying again this year with the new kit from Doc. Would love to hear experience of others.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Gramma Maggie said:
Does anyone here start plants in a greenhouse and then move them outside? I did last year with the old high brix method and it worked pretty well. Trying again this year with the new kit from Doc. Would love to hear experience of others.
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It's done all the time. I have a close associate who always does exactly that.

Do you have question?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc ,

I received the kit from you a couple of weeks ago and I’m ready to cook the soil & just want to make sure I’m following the latest instructions. I reread the “in the lab” thread and printed out the instructions you posted on page 5. I’m also going to use the watering instructions in that thread. I also reread the Q & A thread and from what I could gather there are no major changes to the instructions on page 5, would this be correct?

Sorry for the redundancy, I just want to make sure I didn’t miss anything with all the different threads featuring your kit. If there is a particular thread(s) I should read please advise.

Thanks a bunch and I will try to get a thread going with your kit, very excited!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

MIbuddz said:
Hey Doc ,

I received the kit from you a couple of weeks ago and I’m ready to cook the soil & just want to make sure I’m following the latest instructions. I reread the “in the lab” thread and printed out the instructions you posted on page 5. I’m also going to use the watering instructions in that thread. I also reread the Q & A thread and from what I could gather there are no major changes to the instructions on page 5, would this be correct?

Sorry for the redundancy, I just want to make sure I didn’t miss anything with all the different threads featuring your kit. If there is a particular thread(s) I should read please advise.

Thanks a bunch and I will try to get a thread going with your kit, very excited!
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Yep. No major changes from the instructions listed on page 5 of "In the Lab."

There have been two people who have contacted me with kit issues.

1.)first guy never cooked the soil. Had it in a barrel, in the garage with high temps in the 40's. Temps must be higher.....much higher, for the soil to cook.

2.)second guy watered with 5-10x too much Energy. (didn't read the directions.) This made too much calcium in the mix which started to cause some mg issues.

Both "problem users" will harvest, so no total losses.

The directions are exactly what the lab instructed. They know what they're doing.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, a question: as you know, I started my soil with the kit pretty late, so I started my seeds in the old mix. Now they are up, still in the old soil, and I'm thinking I shouldn't use the kit sprays etc. on the old soil and should wait until I transplant into larger pots with the cooked new soil which will be ready in about a week. Would appreciate guidance. Am I on the right track or already veering off course?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

shottafire said:
Whats a good cooking time doc?
Used up the rest of my super soil. Now I will start a kit.

Hope all is going good for you my friend.
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Hey bro!

1 month minimum. Keep it warm!

When you gonna show those photo's of my strains?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Gramma Maggie said:
Doc, a question: as you know, I started my soil with the kit pretty late, so I started my seeds in the old mix. Now they are up, still in the old soil, and I'm thinking I shouldn't use the kit sprays etc. on the old soil and should wait until I transplant into larger pots with the cooked new soil which will be ready in about a week. Would appreciate guidance. Am I on the right track or already veering off course?
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You are absolutely on the right track with regard to using Brix.

Stress may be used if there's stress....but save it if you can.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Harvested pics are Lemon Paki. Gorgeous. Most "lemon" to date.

Growing pics are Lemon Thai. Too many damn lemons in the garden.....but I've got to keep these two. This one is the cleanest sativa high from anything I've grown. Champagne is what I call it.
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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
You are absolutely on the right track with regard to using Brix.

Stress may be used if there's stress....but save it if you can.
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No stress so far - just letting them poke along and make roots. The leftover soil from last year's pots went into the squash bed and I'm already giving it away - looks like a jungle out there. In a good way!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That Champagne is awesome Doc! I was on the Tude website and was looking at some pure landrace sativa strains that take 16-20 weeks to flower. Old timers haze was one, Golden Tiger was another. Have you grown any of these real long flowering sativas? I was searching for Thai's after looking at your Champagne. I ordered one that was called Tikal (supposed to be about a 10 weeker if I remember). It is going straight in HB soil as soon as I get it.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Steppenwolf said:
That Champagne is awesome Doc! I was on the Tude website and was looking at some pure landrace sativa strains that take 16-20 weeks to flower. Old timers haze was one, Golden Tiger was another. Have you grown any of these real long flowering sativas? I was searching for Thai's after looking at your Champagne. I ordered one that was called Tikal (supposed to be about a 10 weeker if I remember). It is going straight in HB soil as soon as I get it.
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I LOVE Thai strains. I like the whole upbeat effect. I like the fact that my cognitive skills are completely intact....but what an amazing day! That's how you feel.

I've grown a couple 14 weekers before, but never anything 20 weeks. I honestly think that's like having a greyhound for an apartment pet. Grow those if you live in the tropics.....OR if you're so rich you can afford to light that sucker for 20 weeks when you could have harvest 4x as much growing another strain....

This one I'm growing is a 10-12 weeker and that's about as long as I care to go indoors.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I LOVE Thai strains. I like the whole upbeat effect. I like the fact that my cognitive skills are completely intact....but what an amazing day! That's how you feel.

I've grown a couple 14 weekers before, but never anything 20 weeks. I honestly think that's like having a greyhound for an apartment pet. Grow those if you live in the tropics.....OR if you're so rich you can afford to light that sucker for 20 weeks when you could have harvest 4x as much growing another strain....

This one I'm growing is a 10-12 weeker and that's about as long as I care to go indoors.
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I agree Doc. I couldnt imagine waiting 20 weeks for a strain. Dont hold me to that, though. I might pick up one of those 20 week flowering seeds and give her a go!

Doc, if you have some time could you put together a 12/12 from seed tutorial? I was just curious as to what size pot you started in, and what you finished in. I know the principles are the same with the kit. You have had good success with this and I was wondering your tips and techniques for success. Thanks Doc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Steppenwolf said:
I agree Doc. I couldnt imagine waiting 20 weeks for a strain. Dont hold me to that, though. I might pick up one of those 20 week flowering seeds and give her a go!

Doc, if you have some time could you put together a 12/12 from seed tutorial? I was just curious as to what size pot you started in, and what you finished in. I know the principles are the same with the kit. You have had good success with this and I was wondering your tips and techniques for success. Thanks Doc.
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It's too easy!

I dont' use feminized seeds, but even if I did, I'd do this exactly the same.

Start seeds in 1 to 2 gallon pots, right under the HPS.
At about day 18 to 28 after germination you should be able to sex them.
Transplant females into 7 gallon pots. Kick males to the curb.

Grow and enjoy! That's all there is to itl

Curso said:
Beautiful Doc!!! Your strains never disappoint, well visually, can only imagine what that Champagne smells like. Is that one of your breeding projects??
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It's one of many "special" strains I have access to. I'll never get a chance to grow 1/3 of them at the rate things are going.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I had a crazy thai strain years ago, would flower as long as you let it go, never got amber. Just kept it kicking along in the back corner of the room for 5 or 6 months, still favorite weed ever grown/smoked. Hazes are great too if you have some time. Greyhounds make great pets (even in an apartment) they sleep about 16 hours a day and don't bark, one good walk a day and he's happy.
 
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