Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
The HID bids certainly do look heftier farther down the stem, but those LED plants are more photogenic. Glad I don't have to choose. 
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
flowerfarmer
Well-Known Member
Your buds look better than perfect
. Imho
"I should be getting some great big lights real soon here and we'll grow some monsters".
I can't wait to see what led panels you upsize to.
I wanted to ask Curso what size pots you transplanted up from non doc soil to doc soil in your first true high brix grow? I am doing the same thing with 32 oz foam Mcdowls cups. Doc would this affect the end product in a noticable way in your expertise? I want to ask Curso and Doc both so i hope i used the Q&A right. Anyone else's experience is welcome.
. Imho"I should be getting some great big lights real soon here and we'll grow some monsters".
I can't wait to see what led panels you upsize to.I wanted to ask Curso what size pots you transplanted up from non doc soil to doc soil in your first true high brix grow? I am doing the same thing with 32 oz foam Mcdowls cups. Doc would this affect the end product in a noticable way in your expertise? I want to ask Curso and Doc both so i hope i used the Q&A right. Anyone else's experience is welcome.
Your buds look better than perfect
"I should be getting some great big lights real soon here and we'll grow some monsters".
I wanted to ask Curso what size pots you transplanted up from non doc soil to doc soil in your first true high brix grow? I am doing the same thing with 32 oz foam Mcdowls cups. Doc would this affect the end product in a noticable way in your expertise? I want to ask Curso and Doc both so i hope i used the Q&A right. Anyone else's experience is welcome.
I go from 1 cup starter pots to 2 gallion smartpots then to 5 gl then to 20gl. If I am only doing one plant. The next round is skipping the 5 gl pot and going from a 2 to a 20, they'll get some extra veg time in the 20's to allow them to dig in...
you're doing some amazing things doc!! just beautiful..
Grape Ape, Grown with true high brix of course!
Seraphim
New Member
whatever.. HID, LED, VIP, 123, they all look darn GOOOOOD to the last drop!
- Thread starter
- #4,107
you're doing some amazing things doc!! just beautiful..
Grape Ape, Grown with true high brix of course!
Thanks for keeping my garden alive bro! And those nugs look pretty damn good, thanks in large part to YOU!
flowerfarmer
Well-Known Member
Ok so going from plain lightly mineralized pro mix in a 32 ounce cup heavily root bound transfer over to high briX soil for the rest of the grow doesnt have enough affect to discuss. Thanks anyway.
- Thread starter
- #4,109
You'll be just fine. Go ahead and transplant!
Shags
New Member
I am moving from hydro to Doc's high brix kit. It's surprising how excited I am about this.. Just sharing 
Shrike
Well-Known Member
I know the feeling...I'll be starting my first "Kit" grow in a week or less. 
The wait is very, VERY worth it... once you follow the High Brix Road, to the Wizard, Doc Bud, who has lovingly and extremely generously shared his Magic...and its REAL, you will realize you aint in 'Kansas' anymore...
For those who arent medicated yet, ..the state Kansas is a very cool place
For those who arent medicated yet, ..the state Kansas is a very cool place
Engorage
Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, its been a while.
Doc,
I have been really busy to start a proper journal, so I would appreciate if you could give me some input in a few issues I can´t figure out please. It is my first time in High Brix(HB) and I have a lot of info but no actual experience.
My gals are looking great, except for 1 of em (P2). She has had yellowing at the developing sites (new growth). I think its a problem with nitrogen mobilization, not uptake but the movement of N across its inner vessels to the growing sites.
Here I post pictures of one example of the "normal"(HB standards) looking ones (P1) and of the partial yellowing one (P2). Remember these are 12/12 from seed. All of em got their first cationic drench on the day the pictures were taken, on week 6 since their first transplant drench (upon germination).
P1 Blue Thai (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
This is an example of how the rest of my plants look. Intense waxy green leaves, healthy looking stems and vigorous rooting.
P2 Jamaican Chocolate (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
As you can see, theres yellowing only in the sites of new growth, the older leaves have that intense green waxy look. Aside from that yellowing, this is the most vigorous plant in the tent. I suspect that its growth could be faster than its movilization. So the problem wouldn´t be in the N uptake, if this was the case the vegetal system would use the inferior leaves as a source of available energy, with a consequent inferior yellowing. This has occured throughout the whole cycle since germination. Nitrogen movilization would be my guess but I cannot confirm it, and I don´t think I can work on it.
Drenching and spraying was based on information gotten from Doc´s thread, I also read and took lots notes on Curso´s and Graytail´s. Temperature ranges from 63 to 84°F, humidity ranges from 20 to 70%, although I´ve only seen it around 50%.
What do you think about it? As my temperatures never go very low and the fact that the plants look as if they were fake, maybe its something related to its genetics or the respective phenotype.
Sorry for hijacking and many thanks for giving me the chance to grow the best plants I´ve cultured.
Doc,
I have been really busy to start a proper journal, so I would appreciate if you could give me some input in a few issues I can´t figure out please. It is my first time in High Brix(HB) and I have a lot of info but no actual experience.
My gals are looking great, except for 1 of em (P2). She has had yellowing at the developing sites (new growth). I think its a problem with nitrogen mobilization, not uptake but the movement of N across its inner vessels to the growing sites.
Here I post pictures of one example of the "normal"(HB standards) looking ones (P1) and of the partial yellowing one (P2). Remember these are 12/12 from seed. All of em got their first cationic drench on the day the pictures were taken, on week 6 since their first transplant drench (upon germination).
P1 Blue Thai (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
This is an example of how the rest of my plants look. Intense waxy green leaves, healthy looking stems and vigorous rooting.
P2 Jamaican Chocolate (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
As you can see, theres yellowing only in the sites of new growth, the older leaves have that intense green waxy look. Aside from that yellowing, this is the most vigorous plant in the tent. I suspect that its growth could be faster than its movilization. So the problem wouldn´t be in the N uptake, if this was the case the vegetal system would use the inferior leaves as a source of available energy, with a consequent inferior yellowing. This has occured throughout the whole cycle since germination. Nitrogen movilization would be my guess but I cannot confirm it, and I don´t think I can work on it.
Drenching and spraying was based on information gotten from Doc´s thread, I also read and took lots notes on Curso´s and Graytail´s. Temperature ranges from 63 to 84°F, humidity ranges from 20 to 70%, although I´ve only seen it around 50%.
What do you think about it? As my temperatures never go very low and the fact that the plants look as if they were fake, maybe its something related to its genetics or the respective phenotype.
Sorry for hijacking and many thanks for giving me the chance to grow the best plants I´ve cultured.
- Thread starter
- #4,115
Hello everyone, its been a while.
Doc,
I have been really busy to start a proper journal, so I would appreciate if you could give me some input in a few issues I can´t figure out please. It is my first time in High Brix(HB) and I have a lot of info but no actual experience.
My gals are looking great, except for 1 of em (P2). She has had yellowing at the developing sites (new growth). I think its a problem with nitrogen mobilization, not uptake but the movement of N across its inner vessels to the growing sites.
Here I post pictures of one example of the "normal"(HB standards) looking ones (P1) and of the partial yellowing one (P2). Remember these are 12/12 from seed. All of em got their first cationic drench on the day the pictures were taken, on week 6 since their first transplant drench (upon germination).
P1 Blue Thai (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
This is an example of how the rest of my plants look. Intense waxy green leaves, healthy looking stems and vigorous rooting.
P2 Jamaican Chocolate (day 37). Plant and bud shot.
As you can see, theres yellowing only in the sites of new growth, the older leaves have that intense green waxy look. Aside from that yellowing, this is the most vigorous plant in the tent. I suspect that its growth could be faster than its movilization. So the problem wouldn´t be in the N uptake, if this was the case the vegetal system would use the inferior leaves as a source of available energy, with a consequent inferior yellowing. This has occured throughout the whole cycle since germination. Nitrogen movilization would be my guess but I cannot confirm it, and I don´t think I can work on it.
Drenching and spraying was based on information gotten from Doc´s thread, I also read and took lots notes on Curso´s and Graytail´s. Temperature ranges from 63 to 84°F, humidity ranges from 20 to 70%, although I´ve only seen it around 50%.
What do you think about it? As my temperatures never go very low and the fact that the plants look as if they were fake, maybe its something related to its genetics or the respective phenotype.
Sorry for hijacking and many thanks for giving me the chance to grow the best plants I´ve cultured.
First of all, it's not anything you did wrong, as your other plants are all looking pretty damn nice.
Sometimes I have a plant that does that and I often fix it like this:
1. mix up 1 oz Transplant per gallon of water with 10 ml Tea in the same gallon.
2. Top dress with EWC
3. Run 2 gallons of the Transplant/Tea mix very slowly into the pot....take 10 minutes to do this
It should clear up in 3 or 4 days. You'll be just fine.
- Thread starter
- #4,116
Pics.
flowerfarmer
Well-Known Member
Doc you have a real cool life and i think its gonna get a lot cooler. I cant wait till you get the recognition you deserve
Doc, gorgeous as usual! The one purple bud looks like a vampire bat well to me it does.
well to me it does. 
SmokeyMcFly
Well-Known Member
I go from 1 cup starter pots to 2 gallion smartpots then to 5 gl then to 20gl. If I am only doing one plant. The next round is skipping the 5 gl pot and going from a 2 to a 20, they'll get some extra veg time in the 20's to allow them to dig in...
Hey Curso, was just curious what kind of watering schedule do you have those 20 gals on?
Thanks!
buymysandwich
420 Member
Hello Doc! I've been lurking for quite a while and finally have the ability to try out your kit. Haven't posted much because I don't really have anything to contribute at the moment so I can't PM you to get more info. Would you mind sending me a PM and some info so I can join the club? Thanks!