Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, I've been drenching with all the drenches at once since starting flowering. Different amounts of Cat, Growth and Transplant; Same amount of Tea.
Plants, buds seem to be doing great, but then again, I have no idea what im growin with several plants, as far as strains...lol.
Will post a few pics later, if I may. :)
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Good for you for experimenting....but I don't recommend that practice. It's much better to yank the soil around from Cationic to Anionic, IE Cat Drench to Growth Energy, back to Cat Drench, etc. I haven't tried much with that, but it's worthy of experimentation.

The problem with doing them all at once is that you aren't signaling the plant to either grow or reproduce and you miss out on one of our "advantages" with the type of soil we use.

FYI, Cat Drench is about 80% Transplant. Transplant, being an organic fert, favors reproduction. Growth Energy favors growth. Cat Drench is extreme towards the growth. So when you mix all growth with all reproduction....you get a confused plant.

That's not to say you shouldn't try things...you most definitely should. But I think you'll have a bit more success keeping the basic principles in mind.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Good for you for experimenting....but I don't recommend that practice. It's much better to yank the soil around from Cationic to Anionic, IE Cat Drench to Growth Energy, back to Cat Drench, etc. I haven't tried much with that, but it's worthy of experimentation.

The problem with doing them all at once is that you aren't signaling the plant to either grow or reproduce and you miss out on one of our "advantages" with the type of soil we use.

FYI, Cat Drench is about 80% Transplant. Transplant, being an organic fert, favors reproduction. Growth Energy favors growth. Cat Drench is extreme towards the growth. So when you mix all growth with all reproduction....you get a confused plant.

That's not to say you shouldn't try things...you most definitely should. But I think you'll have a bit more success keeping the basic principles in mind.
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Doc can you give an example of a by the books feeding schedule for a typical 9-10 week strain?

I am confused over the alternate energy / transplant and the schedule you used to have listed that was more like all transplant up to cat drench and energy after.

I was thinking about something like this

1 week before flip - energy
flip week - transplant
week 2 - energy
3 - transplant
4 cat
5 energy
6 transplant
7 to finish energy

or should it be more like

transplant from flip till CD and energy from CD till finish?

So far I did energy the week before flip and transplant the first week of the flip. Im at the beginning week two and havent drenched yet. I also am giving about 2ml of transplant on my normal waterings between drenches.

Thanks!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Maybe I can chime in!

I like energy a week before flip. I don't like energy until after cat drench other wise. My huckleberry for example, didn't get anything but water, maybe once with 1/4 transplant and a couple drops of tea, but really just water for the first 3, almost 4 weeks. Less is more. Also, I didn't do any late cat drench on them either, I chose to do a week 7 transplant drench (as recommended by the doc) to flip the energy back to reproductive but not so intensely. Maybe on a 12 weeker I'd do a late cat but otherwise I haven't been to keen on that one yet. Your schedule looks like you're planning on drenching every week...I think that's too much. Water more often inbetween the drenches. The sprays don't work so good if the soil is always all loaded up. The plant food in the soil from drenches can go down a bit, that's what we want, then the sprays can really work - signaling the plant to signal the soil and get all happy and shit.

Less is more!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Maybe I can chime in!

I like energy a week before flip. I don't like energy until after cat drench other wise. My huckleberry for example, didn't get anything but water, maybe once with 1/4 transplant and a couple drops of tea, but really just water for the first 3, almost 4 weeks. Less is more. Also, I didn't do any late cat drench on them either, I chose to do a week 7 transplant drench (as recommended by the doc) to flip the energy back to reproductive but not so intensely. Maybe on a 12 weeker I'd do a late cat but otherwise I haven't been to keen on that one yet. Your schedule looks like you're planning on drenching every week...I think that's too much. Water more often inbetween the drenches. The sprays don't work so good if the soil is always all loaded up. The plant food in the soil from drenches can go down a bit, that's what we want, then the sprays can really work - signaling the plant to signal the soil and get all happy and shit.

Less is more!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback! I thought they were supposed to get a weekly drench, I only water 1 gal per plant in 15gal equiv air pots so they get frequent smaller waterings between the drenches. I end up giving them the 2ml of transplant during normal water about once maybe twice between each drench.

So I already have
pre week energy
week 1 transplant

does this look better for the rest?
week 3 recharge
no more drenches until CD in week 4
Week 6 energy or transplant? seems like a long time to go without energy since CD is mostly transplant?
Week 8 energy
This would be in addition to keeping up the 1ml per plant transplant on waterings once or twice a week throughout rest of grow except during CD week. Or maybe I should keep this to once or twice between each drench? Or not till after the CD or not at all? I just read people giving small amount of transplant during normal watering getting frostier nuglets :D

I do have big pots so they should be able to handle less feeding np.
Thoughts?

Thanks again for the feedback, just trying to figure out a good baseline feeding schedule.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

SmokeyMcFly said:
Thanks for the feedback! I thought they were supposed to get a weekly drench, I only water 1 gal per plant in 15gal equiv air pots so they get frequent smaller waterings between the drenches. I end up giving them the 2ml of transplant during normal water about once maybe twice between each drench.

So I already have
pre week energy
week 1 transplant

does this look better for the rest?
week 3 recharge
no more drenches until CD in week 4
Week 6 energy or transplant? seems like a long time to go without energy since CD is mostly transplant?
Week 8 energy
This would be in addition to keeping up the 1ml per plant transplant on waterings once or twice a week throughout rest of grow except during CD week. Or maybe I should keep this to once or twice between each drench? Or not till after the CD or not at all? I just read people giving small amount of transplant during normal watering getting frostier nuglets :D

I do have big pots so they should be able to handle less feeding np.
Thoughts?

Thanks again for the feedback, just trying to figure out a good baseline feeding schedule.
Click to expand...

Hey Smokey...your right there bro....don't feel like ya have to always feed something.I've found that ....as per doc's. instructions..But try to go 3 times with just water and tea/trans. before a "drench" Transplant was never intended to be a "drench" just energy and Cat,D. The tea helps get the soil energy up. Container growing is so tricky.A nice balance is very hard to get. I have to keep telling myself it's not what i'm giving the plant to eat....but how the soil is doing it!The big pots you are using makes using Doc's. "kit" even easier than it already is. Grow em nice and big in those . Cheers....time for zzz's.:cheertwo:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Ya that sounds better. Energy after cat. You could go with transplant after that, and then energy till finish.

I don't add tea to every watering. Too much microbes eat all the food. Tea with drenches... That's all.
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Sounds good and its even less work :thumb:

Grats on POTM :bravo::goodjob::cheertwo:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Maybe I can chime in!

I like energy a week before flip. I don't like energy until after cat drench other wise. My huckleberry for example, didn't get anything but water, maybe once with 1/4 transplant and a couple drops of tea, but really just water for the first 3, almost 4 weeks. Less is more. Also, I didn't do any late cat drench on them either, I chose to do a week 7 transplant drench (as recommended by the doc) to flip the energy back to reproductive but not so intensely. Maybe on a 12 weeker I'd do a late cat but otherwise I haven't been to keen on that one yet. Your schedule looks like you're planning on drenching every week...I think that's too much. Water more often inbetween the drenches. The sprays don't work so good if the soil is always all loaded up. The plant food in the soil from drenches can go down a bit, that's what we want, then the sprays can really work - signaling the plant to signal the soil and get all happy and shit.

Less is more!
Click to expand...

Perfect Tav.

Definitely need to water in between drenches, at least once, sometimes twice. The sprays do indeed work much better. That's where the magic happens, when soil and plant are communicating and feeding eachother.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

36Gr0w said:
I thought he was doing some transplant with each watering, now I read more!
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I do a 1/4 sized mini-drench of Transplant with each watering, whether a drench or not.

When in doubt of whch drench to use, use Growth Energy. If that's all you used you'd have fantastic plants with mild, delicate flavor. It's the other stuff that gets the bold notes out.

Drench, water plus 1/4 Transplant, water plus 1/4 Transplant, Drench. That's a good way to go for a baseline. If it looks like the plants want a hotter soil, add a drench. But you'll be surprised with the results if you keep things conservative.

Like Tav said, we're feeding with the foliar sprays also, so don't make the mistake of thinking all the nutrition is in the soil and readily available to the plant. Most the of the amendment is rocks....nothing available to the plant at all.....but the microbes in my kit have been born, bred and raised on eating these rocks and giving the nutrition to the plant.

In exchange, the foliar sprays cause rich delicious root exudates to form in the leaves and travel down in order to feed the soil residents. These exudates not only feed the microbial population, they actually signal the biota to bring what the plant wants.

Minerals, microbes and magic. We're not adding minerals with the drenches so much. We're mostly just keeping the voltage of the soil in the right zone. The minerals and microbes do all the work.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I do a 1/4 sized mini-drench of Transplant with each watering, whether a drench or not.

When in doubt of whch drench to use, use Growth Energy. If that's all you used you'd have fantastic plants with mild, delicate flavor. It's the other stuff that gets the bold notes out.

Drench, water plus 1/4 Transplant, water plus 1/4 Transplant, Drench. That's a good way to go for a baseline. If it looks like the plants want a hotter soil, add a drench. But you'll be surprised with the results if you keep things conservative.

Like Tav said, we're feeding with the foliar sprays also, so don't make the mistake of thinking all the nutrition is in the soil and readily available to the plant. Most the of the amendment is rocks....nothing available to the plant at all.....but the microbes in my kit have been born, bred and raised on eating these rocks and giving the nutrition to the plant.

In exchange, the foliar sprays cause rich delicious root exudates to form in the leaves and travel down in order to feed the soil residents. These exudates not only feed the microbial population, they actually signal the biota to bring what the plant wants.

Minerals, microbes and magic. We're not adding minerals with the drenches so much. We're mostly just keeping the voltage of the soil in the right zone. The minerals and microbes do all the work.
Click to expand...

Doc you gave me chicken skin with that beautifully eloquent description of the magic going on between the plant, soil, and microbes. It's truly is amazing how nature works, and certainly is the best way to grow our favorite herb.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Doc you gave me chicken skin with that beautifully eloquent description of the magic going on between the plant, soil, and microbes. It's truly is amazing how nature works, and certainly is the best way to grow our favorite herb.
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I know what you mean. Nature is amazing. Our plants have been using "nature" to survive and thrive for a long, long time. It only stands to reason that methods that are based on natural growth, living soils and natural, organic ferts should the "best" way to grow our plants.

Our methods may change and improve over the years, but the biological approach to growing all plants, especially the best plant in the world all I'm interested in doing.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Doc you gave me chicken skin with that beautifully eloquent description of the magic going on between the plant, soil, and microbes. It's truly is amazing how nature works, and certainly is the best way to grow our favorite herb.
Click to expand...

Hello Brothas,
What do you suggest as a good foliar spray during Veg ?

Thanx in advance,
Bulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thebulldog said:
Hello Brothas,
What do you suggest as a good foliar spray during Veg ?

Thanx in advance,
Bulldog
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I do not suggest any foliar sprays unless you're in a properly balanced soil. They just don't help much if the soil is too hot.

In High Brix gardening, we use both De-Stress and Brix in veg.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, I noticed the foliars kick in very fast..a noticable difference in 20 min. The drenches(even before experimenting) :) take hrs, sometimes 8-12 hrs to notice effect.
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Foliar feeding is 60% more effective at feeding nutrients to the plant when compared to feeding through the roots.

That's why we don't use many salts in our soil and feed the plant more efficiently via foliar sprays. Let the microbes do all the work. They've got more experience and expertise than all of us combined.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, here are a few plants that were experimented on...im in HB kindergarten compared to the Professor and Mary Jane.. No Ginger..:)
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Can you please give me your opinion on these?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, here are a few plants that were experimented on...im in HB kindergarten compared to the Professor and Mary Jane.. No Ginger..:)
image14418.jpg
image14419.jpg
image14420.jpg


Can you please give me your opinion on these?
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I think they look great and will look even better if you quit mixing everything together!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Update:

Nothing to see here, just a bunch of white stuff growing on the leaves and some younger plants that don't have that problem yet. On a serious note, I'm really liking how the Champagne is looking with the 11/13 photoperiod.

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