Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ok guys well I uppoted my 2 devils carnival clones to the 30 gallon tote. And then the amnesia lemon to a 10 gallon plastic pot I had laying around lol.

Up first here is the double up devils C.



Then here we got the amnesia lemon I uppoted to a plastic 10 gal pot.


 
Ok so doc suggested I dont do foilers for right now but jus plain water. So I was wondering should I still do the drenches like normal or should that jus be plain water as well? I'm jus wondering cause my auto is time for a growth drench.
 
The way I understood it was that the straight water spray could be used to help with RH and be used often if needed. I don’t think that met cutting out the foliar feedings completely. You just wouldn’t want to do those any more often than recommended. That was my interpretation.
 
The way I understood it was that the straight water spray could be used to help with RH and be used often if needed. I don’t think that met cutting out the foliar feedings completely. You just wouldn’t want to do those any more often than recommended. That was my interpretation.

Yes...Magoo..that is correct.Foliar spraying with straight water this time of yr helps some growers maintain a healthier RH...but only straight water for this every day thing.Foliars from the kit can still be given every 7 to 10 days with emfusess on Brix...as Destress should only be used if issues come up. cheers
 
Yea I didnt mean to sound like I thought to quit the foilers cuz of the water spraying I jus member doc sayn to stop the foilers for now and to jus do plain water for a few rounds cuz it was sumthn to do with the roots being out of sync with the soil or sumthn like tht idk but I was supposed to stop foilers for a bit so I did but still tryn to get the rh up abit.

Also since every1 said I shud do the spraying at about an hour b4 lights come on but I'm gone at tht time so shud I jus turn lights off for a bit to spray them an let them dry then lights back on or would they be fine if I jus try an keep it to the undersides of the leaves n keep lights on? Or shud I jus change the light timer schedule to them being off when I'm around?
 
Yea I didnt mean to sound like I thought to quit the foilers cuz of the water spraying I jus member doc sayn to stop the foilers for now and to jus do plain water for a few rounds cuz it was sumthn to do with the roots being out of sync with the soil or sumthn like tht idk but I was supposed to stop foilers for a bit so I did but still tryn to get the rh up abit.

Also since every1 said I shud do the spraying at about an hour b4 lights come on but I'm gone at tht time so shud I jus turn lights off for a bit to spray them an let them dry then lights back on or would they be fine if I jus try an keep it to the undersides of the leaves n keep lights on? Or shud I jus change the light timer schedule to them being off when I'm around?
 
...I've got a few reasons why I don't grow over the winter months...lifestyle is #1...but environment is a close second...18% RH in my basement just doesn't seem worth the battle...appreciate what you fella's' do to get it done tho'...cheerz...h00k...:rollit::passitleft:
Hello Dr! Im replying to your quote specifically but it applies to this entire conversation of humidity. I have researched vapor pressure deficit and I am well equipped enough to alter my environment to within a degree or two and I can peg my humidity no matter where I want it.
Im not bragging, I spent alot of money,time, and failure with my situation. I wrote on article here on VPD, link in the sig.
Best advice regarding RH is to take it by the balls and learn to manipulate it. I use a little inkbird humidity controller and it turns on and off my humidifier. These little 30 dollar humidifiers are all well and good but as Doc said, they die quick. My humidifier is from a shop called house of hydro. Good guy, his name is John and he's based in the U.S.

He sells a kit of ultrasonic discs, the more disks in the kit the larger area you can use the kit. This is a dry fogger type humidifier. Like you see on stage when Taylor Swift ( teenage daughter bro, ok?:)) comes out on stage. It isnt wet and thats great around HPS and CMH bulbs. You choose what size reservoir you want. I run a 27 gallon tote for my reservoir and in Southern Cali, in an uninsulated garage mind you, I havent filled my tote in atleast 14 days. Thats with it coming on everytime it dips below 50%RH and filling the room to 51% over and over ALL DAY ( but not in the night!! :D I know your a music guy Hook.

Okay hope that helped someone, I get a lil' rambley :bongrip:
 
Hello Dr! Im replying to your quote specifically but it applies to this entire conversation of humidity. I have researched vapor pressure deficit and I am well equipped enough to alter my environment to within a degree or two and I can peg my humidity no matter where I want it.
Im not bragging, I spent alot of money,time, and failure with my situation. I wrote on article here on VPD, link in the sig.
Best advice regarding RH is to take it by the balls and learn to manipulate it. I use a little inkbird humidity controller and it turns on and off my humidifier. These little 30 dollar humidifiers are all well and good but as Doc said, they die quick. My humidifier is from a shop called house of hydro. Good guy, his name is John and he's based in the U.S.

He sells a kit of ultrasonic discs, the more disks in the kit the larger area you can use the kit. This is a dry fogger type humidifier. Like you see on stage when Taylor Swift ( teenage daughter bro, ok?:)) comes out on stage. It isnt wet and thats great around HPS and CMH bulbs. You choose what size reservoir you want. I run a 27 gallon tote for my reservoir and in Southern Cali, in an uninsulated garage mind you, I havent filled my tote in atleast 14 days. Thats with it coming on everytime it dips below 50%RH and filling the room to 51% over and over ALL DAY ( but not in the night!! :D I know your a music guy Hook.

Okay hope that helped someone, I get a lil' rambley :bongrip:
It’ll help lots of folks Archi :thumb: I’m going to use your thread on it to tweak my setup for indoors - got a few months to figure it :)
 
Yea I didnt mean to sound like I thought to quit the foilers cuz of the water spraying I jus member doc sayn to stop the foilers for now and to jus do plain water for a few rounds cuz it was sumthn to do with the roots being out of sync with the soil or sumthn like tht idk but I was supposed to stop foilers for a bit so I did but still tryn to get the rh up abit.

Also since every1 said I shud do the spraying at about an hour b4 lights come on but I'm gone at tht time so shud I jus turn lights off for a bit to spray them an let them dry then lights back on or would they be fine if I jus try an keep it to the undersides of the leaves n keep lights on? Or shud I jus change the light timer schedule to them being off when I'm around?
Doc stated stop all foliars, give nothing but water drinks a couple of times, then do a rescue drench, and get back on track with regular routine. He stated your soil energy is too high, and the plants metabolism is slow. That was my recollection Bud.
 
Doc stated stop all foliars, give nothing but water drinks a couple of times, then do a rescue drench, and get back on track with regular routine. He stated your soil energy is too high, and the plants metabolism is slow. That was my recollection Bud.

Right I knew it was sumthn along those lines lol. See guys I got horrible short term memory. I notice I gotta run things threw a few times b4 they stick lol. Slowly but surely things are coming around lol.
Also the rescue drench ur talkn about does that come in "the kit" we all get or is that sumthn xtra I wud need to get cause I looked threw my bottles and nuthn says rescue drench on it.
 
This is the latest bluecheese I have in a 10 gallon wastebasket lmao. I didnt have enuf to fill another 10 gallon pot atleast so I just choose to do the best out of the 2 and the other will go into whatever the biggest size pot I can fit her into that I can find around here lol. Also does all this burnt up leaves just maybe have to do with the bottom not gettn enuf light? Along with the rh being 2 low?



 
Right I knew it was sumthn along those lines lol. See guys I got horrible short term memory. I notice I gotta run things threw a few times b4 they stick lol. Slowly but surely things are coming around lol.
Also the rescue drench ur talkn about does that come in "the kit" we all get or is that sumthn xtra I wud need to get cause I looked threw my bottles and nuthn says rescue drench on it.

Brother Blaze,

I say this with nothing but a desire to help you brother...

Dude!!! You have to READ the directions if you want to get good at this and be the envy of every other grower around you. :)

There’s no skipping this! Posting on this thread for every single question, due to a lack of reading and re-reading the directions gets cumbersome for everyone trying to help, and feels like we are spoon feeding you.

I quoted the directions from Doc below, and they answer a lot of the simple questions. I found when I was learning the kit, if I printed the directions, read them every time I had a question, most times the answer was there, and when things still were fuzzy, then I would ask here.

Doc does not send them with the kit, because not everyone is a legal State or growing cannabis. He has in his signature a link “how to use the kit”

Funny thing, when I was just back there researching an answer for you my friend;) I found some info that answered a question I had. Getting familiar with the direction is imperative to continued success, and revisiting them from time to time is only going to get you on your “A” game. I have a horrible memory, so I feel for ya. The way around that for me is repetition....reading it every night for a couple weeks for example pounds it into my head. Like prepping to take a test.

When you put in the work and research, and then still have questions, (and you will still have them, we all do), it goes along way.

I’ve seen you here long enough to know, you should know those instructions inside out by now, and shouldn’t be asking high brix 101 questions, and if it’s the first time you’ve heard of them, well you’ve got your homework assignment.

Read the copy of Docs post below, click his signature “how to use the kit” and invest in yourself. It will pay you back in the sweetest bud you’ve every consumed!:high-five:

I speak from experience, but never have forgotten when I came from. Here have a puff:passitleft:

Click below to expand the instructions, and you’ll find you answer to the Rescue Drench.

The Kit:

The End User will need the following:

3.8 cu ft bale of ProMix HP myco, or Sunshine #4 or Promix BX myco. Perlite can be added to the BX in order to increase porosity for indoor growing.

20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)

A proper growing environment, basic gardening skills, 7 gallon pots and a sprayer capable of putting out a fine spray. Please note that 7 gallons is the MINIMUM size container that will perform properly. Larger containers are better.

The Products:

Drenches

Growth Energy: This product increases soil energy and provides vegetative growth energy and bulking of fruit and flowers once formed.

Transplant: This product slightly favors reproductive growth of seeds, flowers and fruit. It is used to feed the microbial colony in the soil mostly, but it also boosts reproductive growth to some extent.

Cat Drench: This product increases soil energy, highly favors reproductive growth and provides cations and the ammonia form of nitrogen, which strongly stimulates fruiting and flowering, as well as seed production.

All drenches are mixed at .5 to 1.0 mil per gallon of soil in the container. For raised beds and hose-end sprayers, use 1 to 3 oz per 30 square feet of bed. Stronger applications can be applied without harm for the “heavy feeders.”

When dunking the plants in the vegetative phase (or if you're fortunate enough to be able to dunk them in bloom) mix everything at double strength.

Foliar Sprays:

Brix: Sprayed every week to 10 days, this product encourages reproductive growth and essential oil and resin production. Brix foliar should not be skipped, even if the plants look perfect. Use 1 oz Brix mixed into a quart of water. Do not store the prepared Brix foliar. Use it up the same day it is mixed.

De-Stress: This product helps plants heal, deal with stress and provides a broad spectrum of trace minerals. This can be sprayed 1-2 times per week when there are signs of plant stress. If the plants look "perfect" there is no reason to spray with De-Stress. Also, mixed at 50% strength it helps high brix clones root much faster. DeStress is mixed at ½ oz per quart of water. DeStress can be saved in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Always smell it before using if you have stored some.

Mineral Amendments

Amendment: this product is mixed into the bale of Promix, watered, and allowed to "cook" in a barrel for a minimum of 30 days in order to get the soil ready for planting.

Re-Charge: This product is similar to Amendment, but has a few additions and ommisions. It is designed to be top dressed during the 3rd week of the bloom cycle. Outdoors, apply Re-charge when buds have set. It's best to scratch it into the top layer of soil and gently water it in to avoid soil compaction.

Roots!: This is a microbial inoculate. A light dusting on rootballs during transplanting and a small amount at the bottom of the hole where seeds are planted is the proper use for this product. One Tablespoon per transplanted cutting sprinkled in and around the hole is perfect. More can be used when transplanting from the Veg area to the Bloom containers. Water with 1/4 Strength Transplant after the first application of Roots!.

Microbes

Tea: This is a liquid humate product loaded with beneficials. It is mixed with each feeding at the rate of 1 mil per gallon of drench generally speaking.

These are the general descriptions of the products. Now let's move into the practical side of things.

Getting Started

Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.

Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered but able to breathe for one month. A thick rubber trash can with lid on is perfect. Avoid sealed containers that do not exchange air and uncovered containers. We want sweat and condensation.

Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.

Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!

Seeds:

Using a gallon sized container of newly cooked High Brix soil, make sure the soil is still slightly moist from the barrel. Not soaking wet....but moist.

Using a pencil, or chopstick or a non-functioning vape pen, make a divot in the soil about 1/4 inch deep. Add a small amount of ROOTS! in and around this hole, in which you deposit the seed and lightly cover with surrounding dirt. Gently water with 1/4 strength Transplant if needed to keep the soil moist, but not wet.

Clones:

Pretty much the same as seeds, but use enough ROOTS! to completely dust the clone's roots and put a small amount at the bottom of the hole. Water with 1 pint of 1/4 strength Transplant drench.

Watering Tech for Vegetative Growth

Try to let the containers go completely dry between waterings. What I mean by completely dry is that the first physical signs of "wilting" are present. Droopy leaves, loss of turgor, etc. When the containers are dry as described, do this:

Prepare a tub/bucket of water such that when you submerge a dry container from above, the water level is 3/4ths up to the level of the soil. If using a drench, mix it TWICE AS STRONG AS NORMAL.

Submerge the containers and let them soak and wick up the drench for 5 minutes or so. When removing the containers from the soaking bucket/tub, tilt them this way and that in order to drain as much liquid out as possible.

The draining will draw air in from above which the plants absolutely love. This method will result in stronger stems, much better roots, shorter internodal spacing and better leaf to calyx ratio.

Upcanning of larger plants:

Vertically score the roots, dust all roots with ROOTS!, place some in the bottom of the hole, gently position rootball, fill in with soil and soak the medium with water and 1/4 strength Transplant.

Water All seeds, all newly transplanted clones and newly transplanted vegging plants with 1/4 strength Transplant

Use of Foliar Sprays:

Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress. Please note: if the plants are always stressed something else is wrong. Many experienced growers report not needed to use the product at all.

Mix DeStress at 1/2 oz per quart of RO and Brix at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.

Using Drenches:

Tea: All drenches are "served" with Tea, with two exceptions: The Super Drench and the Rescue Drench**

In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water plus 1/4 strength Transplant between drenches except for the Cat Drench.

Growth Energy: This is where strong stems and healthy leaves come from. It is also used during the latter half of the bloom cycle to bulk up fruit and flowers. Mix at .5 to 1.0 mil per gallon of soil in the container.. Stronger doses can be used if needed, but generally you'll just waste product. Finishing the growing cycle on Growth Energy results in a sweeter produce.

Transplant: Should be used during the bloom phase alternating with Growth Energy. It is also used at
.5 to 1 mil per gallon of soil. Some growers have found that essential oil and resin production can be increased by using 1/4 oz of Transplant per 5 gallons of water evenly distributed to every plant with each and every watering....whether with a drench or with just plain water. Please note, this does not mean ¼ oz TO EVERY PLANT, but 1/4 oz into 5 gallons of water.

Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place.

While it is mixed at the same rate as the other drenches: .5 to 1 mil per gallon of soil in the container, it differs from the other drenches in that it is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.

These are the basic instructions for using the kit! A few pointers:

When in doubt about which drench to use, use Growth Energy.

Rescue Drench

If the plants seem weak and need a boost---almost never happens unless you made a mistake or there has been some environmental issue or circumstances beyond your control---try this:

1 oz. Transplant per gallon of water with 6 mils of Tea. Feed a solution with this composition to all the plants. It will re-colonize the roots and get things back on track. Do not do this if you aren't having any problems.

Super Drench

1 Cup (yes 8 oz) of Transplant plus 10 mils Tea per 5 gallons of water. Give each plant 1 gallon of this.


OG Drench While not part of the basic kit, some growers find this drench useful. New formulations of products are making this drench obsolete for all but a handful of strains.

1 oz OG Drench plus 1 oz Transplant plus 2 tblspn Epsom salts plus 10 mil Tea per 5 gallons of water.


Recycling Soil

After the first crop is harvested, put the soil, including the roots, mixed with fresh EWC, perhaps 20 lbs worth along with another bag of amendment back into the barrel and cook it for another month, then use as always.

After the second crop is harvested, take that soil, and add the 3rd Run Amendment to this soil, along with some leaf scraps from recently harvested healthy plants and a light sprinkling of Roots! on the leaves. Let this cook for a month and then use as always.

After the 3rd crop has been harvested from the soil, add fresh, unused Promix along with leaves and a light dusting of roots and re-cook.

I personally do not use soil after the 4th run. Others do so with good success and I suggest seeking them out and seeing if their methods work in your garden. I get my best results with the 3rd run of soil.


General Wisdom and Good Advice:

The high side of the feeding schedule works better than the low side. If you know your crop and know it is a “light feeder” start on the low side. If you know your crop is robust and likes to gobble up nutrition, start on the heavy side. All recommendations can be safely doubled, even tripled without burning the plants, but doing so often results in no obvious benefit to plant health. Exceptions are one-time applications of Rescue and Super drenches.

The “kit” gives the best results after one or two attempts. Please pay close attention to the product descriptions and the actual results from using the products and their effects on the plants. Over time, these observations will “sink in” to the gardener's psyche and intellect and will help produce the “green thumb” that we all desire.

Doc Bud's High Brix blend is not meant to be dogmatic or narrow in application! We all depend on experimentation and creativity in order to progress. High Brix soil can be viewed as a properly tuned musical instrument, the drenches and sprays and the simple “alternation” of drenches can be viewed as the first two or three songs learned by a student. Obviously, we don't want to stop there!

Learn the products, get familiar with their smell, pay close attention to the effect they have on the plants and let it all sink in. Try different things, don't be afraid to add small amounts of this or that to the soil (key word SMALL) and feel free to give your produce your own signature.
 
Well like I've said
Brother Blaze,

I say this with nothing but a desire to help you brother...

Dude!!! You have to READ the directions if you want to get good at this and be the envy of every other grower around you. :)

There’s no skipping this! Posting on this thread for every single question, due to a lack of reading and re-reading the directions gets cumbersome for everyone trying to help, and feels like we are spoon feeding you.

I quoted the directions from Doc below, and they answer a lot of the simple questions. I found when I was learning the kit, if I printed the directions, read them every time I had a question, most times the answer was there, and when things still were fuzzy, then I would ask here.

Doc does not send them with the kit, because not everyone is a legal State or growing cannabis. He has in his signature a link “how to use the kit”

Funny thing, when I was just back there researching an answer for you my friend;) I found some info that answered a question I had. Getting familiar with the direction is imperative to continued success, and revisiting them from time to time is only going to get you on your “A” game. I have a horrible memory, so I feel for ya. The way around that for me is repetition....reading it every night for a couple weeks for example pounds it into my head. Like prepping to take a test.

When you put in the work and research, and then still have questions, (and you will still have them, we all do), it goes along way.

I’ve seen you here long enough to know, you should know those instructions inside out by now, and shouldn’t be asking high brix 101 questions, and if it’s the first time you’ve heard of them, well you’ve got your homework assignment.

Read the copy of Docs post below, click his signature “how to use the kit” and invest in yourself. It will pay you back in the sweetest bud you’ve every consumed!:high-five:

I speak from experience, but never have forgotten when I came from. Here have a puff:passitleft:

Click below to expand the instructions, and you’ll find you answer to the Rescue Drench.

Well thanx for the help but like I've said b4 that right now I dnt have internet n wen I do I dont get time to do research right at this time I lost my internet unexpectedly so it's hard for me 2 be able 2 look stuff up wen I only got limited time but this issue is soon 2be fixed but yea thanx I'll do more reading instead of asking first.
 
Well like I've said


Well thanx for the help but like I've said b4 that right now I dnt have internet n wen I do I dont get time to do research right at this time I lost my internet unexpectedly so it's hard for me 2 be able 2 look stuff up wen I only got limited time but this issue is soon 2be fixed but yea thanx I'll do more reading instead of asking first.
May I suggest taking screenshots of the instructions? I take screenshots of a lot of useful info I find around here mostly so I wont have to search for it later. But if I had limited internet access it would come in even handier!
 
Well said Dopy and Yeti! Blaze it's just tough love, we want you to succeed and even though you have bad memory, repetition will help. Sorry I gave you bad advice earlier to go ahead and feed, I forgot that Doc suggested waters then rescue which is just a very strong trans drench. Read, print, screen shot the instructions and read again and soon you'll be helping others. We will obviously still help as needed but like Dopy said, Rescue is basic that is in the directions. Your girls are coming around so I'm sure youll have a successful harvest. Looking forward to it!

:passitleft:
 
Brother Blaze,

I say this with nothing but a desire to help you brother...

Dude!!! You have to READ the directions if you want to get good at this and be the envy of every other grower around you. :)

There’s no skipping this! Posting on this thread for every single question, due to a lack of reading and re-reading the directions gets cumbersome for everyone trying to help, and feels like we are spoon feeding you.

I quoted the directions from Doc below, and they answer a lot of the simple questions. I found when I was learning the kit, if I printed the directions, read them every time I had a question, most times the answer was there, and when things still were fuzzy, then I would ask here.

Doc does not send them with the kit, because not everyone is a legal State or growing cannabis. He has in his signature a link “how to use the kit”

Funny thing, when I was just back there researching an answer for you my friend;) I found some info that answered a question I had. Getting familiar with the direction is imperative to continued success, and revisiting them from time to time is only going to get you on your “A” game. I have a horrible memory, so I feel for ya. The way around that for me is repetition....reading it every night for a couple weeks for example pounds it into my head. Like prepping to take a test.

When you put in the work and research, and then still have questions, (and you will still have them, we all do), it goes along way.

I’ve seen you here long enough to know, you should know those instructions inside out by now, and shouldn’t be asking high brix 101 questions, and if it’s the first time you’ve heard of them, well you’ve got your homework assignment.

Read the copy of Docs post below, click his signature “how to use the kit” and invest in yourself. It will pay you back in the sweetest bud you’ve every consumed!:high-five:

I speak from experience, but never have forgotten when I came from. Here have a puff:passitleft:

Click below to expand the instructions, and you’ll find you answer to the Rescue Drench.

Lol thanx again man now I got it for sure. I just wrote down what u posted an taped it on the side of my tent hahaha thanx for helpn me out even tho I'm askn stupid questions tht irratate people that wasmt my intention its jus right now I dont have my own internet I have 2 share with my whole family and it's only 3gb for 5 people lol so dnt got much time for info searching anymore but yea thanx man.

 
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