Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Blazinjones said:
Hey guys i had a quick question or 2 about the kit or well more the plants done in the kit then the actual kit itself lol. But yea i was wondering if i should include my highbrix girls on my weekly ipm?

Here is the ingredients in my ipm.
1: monterey garden spray with spinosad.
2:ful-power by bioag its humic acid.
3: sometimes neem oil if needed.
For my normal girls done with synthetic nutes i adgjust the ph to 6.2 but when i was doing los growing i didnt touch the ph so wondering if i shud use it on my high brix plants an if so shud i or shud i not adjust the ph? Thanx any1 for helpn me out i really appreciate it.
Oh also b4 i forget with the clones and seedlings it says after 5 nodes start with the veg calendar in the lil pamphlet tht comes with the kit. Well i was wondering for my clones does it mean after 5 new nodes show up or if mine had 3 nodes when i put it in now with two new nodes would they be fine to start the veg calendar or shud i wait? They are 13 days old if tht helps thanx again every1 namaste.
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For IPM with the kit, you should use Doc's Leaf Wash. No need to adjust PH with the kit (one of the great benefits!), and just make sure the plants have a total of five nodes (three plus another two is fine!).
 
Mr. Krip said:
For IPM with the kit, you should use Doc's Leaf Wash. No need to adjust PH with the kit (one of the great benefits!), and just make sure the plants have a total of five nodes (three plus another two is fine!).
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K thanx bro. An i wasnt sure if it was about the nodes or if it was about root development as 2 y he said wait till 5 nodes. So wasnt sure if my clone already had 3 nodes b4 i put her in the ground if those wud count or not lol. But thanx again bro i appreciate it namaste.
 
Mr. Krip said:
That looks like a sign of over-watering, to me. Make sure you let the containers get fairly dry before re-watering.
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I let the soil get almos rock hardto the touch, it’s only that 1 leaf affected, I’m up potting to the 1 gallon this weekend and starting dunks so hopefully that gets them in track
 
FutRfarmer said:
Could also use some help
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Hi Farmer
See how all the leaves droop, are turning yellowish, and are puffy between the veins....over watered for sure. Easy to do in solo cups. Let it dry out, Transplant to 1 gal pot with plenty of drain holes, and rescue drench. Start you seeds and rooted clones in high brix soil in the 1 gal pots.

To get this concept in my thick head, I use to keep a 1 gal pot full of dry soil, and covered with masking tape so the soil would not spill. I used it to compare the weight of my potted plants, to better judge when to water or drench.:passitleft:
 
Blazinjones said:
Hey guys i had a quick question or 2 about the kit or well more the plants done in the kit then the actual kit itself lol. But yea i was wondering if i should include my highbrix girls on my weekly ipm?

Here is the ingredients in my ipm.
1: monterey garden spray with spinosad.
2:ful-power by bioag its humic acid.
3: sometimes neem oil if needed.
For my normal girls done with synthetic nutes i adgjust the ph to 6.2 but when i was doing los growing i didnt touch the ph so wondering if i shud use it on my high brix plants an if so shud i or shud i not adjust the ph? Thanx any1 for helpn me out i really appreciate it.
Oh also b4 i forget with the clones and seedlings it says after 5 nodes start with the veg calendar in the lil pamphlet tht comes with the kit. Well i was wondering for my clones does it mean after 5 new nodes show up or if mine had 3 nodes when i put it in now with two new nodes would they be fine to start the veg calendar or shud i wait? They are 13 days old if tht helps thanx again every1 namaste.
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Hi BJ

The only preventive pest management I do is Docs leaf wash. Repels pests and feeds the plants. I use it twice in veg, one being right at the flip. I only use spinosad if needed, ie...I have a pest outbreak. Really if the brix levels are up and plants are super healthy they are not easy targets to the pests. Weakness attracts opportunistic parasites. I only see thrips multiplying in my garden when one or more plants are weak for some reason, usually due to my actions, or lack of.
 
DopyLemontree said:
Hi Farmer
See how all the leaves droop, are turning yellowish, and are puffy between the veins....over watered for sure. Easy to do in solo cups. Let it dry out, Transplant to 1 gal pot with plenty of drain holes, and rescue drench. Start you seeds and rooted clones in high brix soil in the 1 gal pots.

To get this concept in my thick head, I use to keep a 1 gal pot full of dry soil, and covered with masking tape so the soil would not spill. I used it to compare the weight of my potted plants, to better judge when to water or drench.:passitleft:
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Nice! What Dopy and Krip said Farmer! Wet dry is so important that you will get a hang of it quickly. At first you'll really want to water even though you may have to wait two weeks or whatever. The dried pots are so light, way lighter than when you fill them up,with that moist soil from the bin.
 
DopyLemontree said:
Hi Farmer
See how all the leaves droop, are turning yellowish, and are puffy between the veins....over watered for sure. Easy to do in solo cups. Let it dry out, Transplant to 1 gal pot with plenty of drain holes, and rescue drench. Start you seeds and rooted clones in high brix soil in the 1 gal pots.

To get this concept in my thick head, I use to keep a 1 gal pot full of dry soil, and covered with masking tape so the soil would not spill. I used it to compare the weight of my potted plants, to better judge when to water or drench.:passitleft:
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Thank you!!!! I’ve been kicking myself for it starting in the 1 gallons. The sad part is I have them.....
 
I should let them
weenmeoff said:
Nice! What Dopy and Krip said Farmer! Wet dry is so important that you will get a hang of it quickly. At first you'll really want to water even though you may have to wait two weeks or whatever. The dried pots are so light, way lighter than when you fill them up,with that moist soil from the bin.
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should I let them completely dry out before transplanting then also? I’ll let the amnesia and LSD sit. What a great learning experience
 
My thoughts are yes but let's see what others say.

:passitleft:
 
FutRfarmer said:
I should let them
should I let them completely dry out before transplanting then also? I’ll let the amnesia and LSD sit. What a great learning experience
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I would say it depends on how wet the soil is they are in now compared to the soil they'd be going into. If you can transplant into drier soil now, I don't see any reason not to do it (i.e. doesn't look so stressed that it will get transplant shock). Also, if you heat up a snipped off piece of wire hanger in a ligher/candle, you can gently "melt" some drain holes into the bottom of the solo cups, which will help them drain quicker.
 
Mr. Krip said:
I would say it depends on how wet the soil is they are in now compared to the soil they'd be going into. If you can transplant into drier soil now, I don't see any reason not to do it (i.e. doesn't look so stressed that it will get transplant shock). Also, if you heat up a snipped off piece of wire hanger in a ligher/candle, you can gently "melt" some drain holes into the bottom of the solo cups, which will help them drain quicker.
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It would be gong into cooked soil. Also the solo cups have slices all around I can take them out of the taped solo cups that should help them dry faster
 
FutRfarmer said:
It would be gong into cooked soil. Also the solo cups have slices all around I can take them out of the taped solo cups that should help them dry faster
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You need the holes in the bottom so the water can drain out and the lower roots aren't sitting in stagnant water. ;)
 
Oops! I just asked about this in your journal FF. Cut some holes or transplant into 1s. I don't think slices will drain very well.
 
FutRfarmer said:
IM itching to get them into the 1’s
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I defer to those with more experience than myself, but Id suggest letting them dry out some. Patience above all else. Theres a member on here, Emilya, who had a great tip: Try to move at the plants speed and if you think you need to do something, wait a day.:Namaste:
 
Heheh, waiting a day usually works for me, too. :high-five:

A tip for upcanning: Don't try to upcan from a dry container - the soil will stick to the sides - much more slippery when it's moist.

But yeah, soggy was my first thought too, when I saw the pics. So, upcan as soon as you can, and let the roots get into some new soil. They'll recover faster.
 
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