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- #10,421
As long as it is 90% or more limestone (calcium carbonate) it will work. Again, you won't have high brix. you're just adding limestone, which could help.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
As long as it is 90% or more limestone (calcium carbonate) it will work. Again, you won't have high brix. you're just adding limestone, which could help.
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
That's a great shot of the fading pattern! You can clearly see the footprint of the panel. In a sense, the panel is too close, but only because the plants can't handle that level of photosynthesis. Brix is 7 ... ??Sumpins wrong. I see a lot of purple petioles and veins, too. What has your foliar schedule been like? Posture is great, leaf shape and texture look good ...
...
I'd wait another week for the Cat unless it's a fast finisher. What's the strain and how long does it run?
Speaking of the panel being too close.... Looking for some feedback from you experienced LED growers. I'm running Dorm Grow's GL8-450s with corresponding 90W Red UFOs over 3'X3' trays. Dorm Grow recommends keeping the distance from the canopy to the lights at 20-30".
I know that each manufacturer has their own distance recommendations. Has anyone played around with the distance with LEDs? I made adjustments every few days until I hit the ceiling (with the lights). Of course by then, I was well into flowering and DG says lights can be fixed during flower. Plants are healthy, leaves dark green and glossy, but just not putting on the bulk one would expect. I try to follow Doc's instructions to the "t".
Thanks.
Speaking of the panel being too close.... Looking for some feedback from you experienced LED growers. I'm running Dorm Grow's GL8-450s with corresponding 90W Red UFOs over 3'X3' trays. Dorm Grow recommends keeping the distance from the canopy to the lights at 20-30".
I know that each manufacturer has their own distance recommendations. Has anyone played around with the distance with LEDs? I made adjustments every few days until I hit the ceiling (with the lights). Of course by then, I was well into flowering and DG says lights can be fixed during flower. Plants are healthy, leaves dark green and glossy, but just not putting on the bulk one would expect. I try to follow Doc's instructions to the "t".
I'd suggest picking Icemud's brain.
He's done a lot of work with different LED panels, including lots of measurements with his own PAR meter, as well as a ton of research on spectrum, photosynthesis, umol levels, etc, ... has a bunch of U-tube videos ... 
As you alluded to, a lot of it depends on the health of the plant. I've been running mine at less than 24" and I usually see that the leaves under the brightest light fade the fastest. The more important thing about LEDs is spread. More lights, mounted higher, are always going to be better for spread and penetration. I keep wanting my plants to be close to the light, but the panels perform better when they're mounted farther from the plants.
Some of the best growers I've seen simply mount theirs to the ceiling and let the plants grow up to them. I don't usually adjust anything unless they've gotten 6-8 inches out of range - too close or too far away. I find that with my 6 gallon pots it's easier to raise and lower them, rather than the panels. I have a variety of things to set the pots on, so that the canopy can stay level.
If your leaves are green and glossy, you're doing it right! In all my tests, that's one of the most reliable visual measures for high Brix - that and petiole coloration. Leaves in that condition are photosynthesizing better/best.
Birdhouse
New Member
I'm using 2x Mars Hydro 144x5 in a 3.5'x3.5' area. They hang 24" during veg and 12" during flower with no issues so far.
Governmentchz
Well-Known Member
I run mine usually 20"-24" in veg...maybe even higher by a few inches. I flip the switches to bloom for a few days at the same height prior to changing the light cycle to allow them to adjust a little (no idea if it helps...but I do it). During flower I will let them grow into the light until they get inside 12" or so, then I'll raise the lights back to 20" or so. I've used 3 different LED brand panels and they all seem to provide best performance over 18".
I've had 2 strains stretch PAST the lights, so strain selection and/or training are vital for best coverage/yield too.
I've had 2 strains stretch PAST the lights, so strain selection and/or training are vital for best coverage/yield too.
DreamingOfGreen
Well-Known Member
Doc,
Had a failed DWC grow about a month ago (unexpected apartment inspection) and decided when I start again I'm going for high brix. I'll be out of the apartment and somewhere safe next month and want to get the kit on order. I'm sure you've explained it half a dozen times but over 600 pages is a lot to cover in this thread. Let me know what you need to make this work, and sorry to bomb your thread with what I'm sure is an already answered question.
Had a failed DWC grow about a month ago (unexpected apartment inspection) and decided when I start again I'm going for high brix. I'll be out of the apartment and somewhere safe next month and want to get the kit on order. I'm sure you've explained it half a dozen times but over 600 pages is a lot to cover in this thread. Let me know what you need to make this work, and sorry to bomb your thread with what I'm sure is an already answered question.
- Thread starter
- #10,427
I'm sending you a PM. You're always welcome on this thread, BTW. No need to apologize.
As I wrote this, I came up with more questions. It was supposed to only be one, then I made a list. I am a question whore, and can be a pita, so I understand if you can't answer them all. Thanks for showing me the importance of C long ago, and like always Doc, your plants look great.
Do you agree with or have any thoughts on Michael Astera's ratios, advice, and methods? He is another Albrecht/Reams/Kempf guy, are they similar to you and the lab you work through?
Do you have paste and tissue tests done, or see a point to it?
Have you tested second/third/fourth/beyond round soil and amended to recommendations? Was it worth the results?
Do you recommend soil testing done with or without the aeration materials added?
Would you recommend for or against the use of pumice or lava rock?
Should testing be done by weight or volume for growing in pots?
I've had some peat tested, next up is the veggie beds, compost, vermicompost, and then peat combos. Anything I'm missing?
Do you agree with or have any thoughts on Michael Astera's ratios, advice, and methods? He is another Albrecht/Reams/Kempf guy, are they similar to you and the lab you work through?
Do you have paste and tissue tests done, or see a point to it?
Have you tested second/third/fourth/beyond round soil and amended to recommendations? Was it worth the results?
Do you recommend soil testing done with or without the aeration materials added?
Would you recommend for or against the use of pumice or lava rock?
Should testing be done by weight or volume for growing in pots?
I've had some peat tested, next up is the veggie beds, compost, vermicompost, and then peat combos. Anything I'm missing?
420
Founder
That's a great shot of the fading pattern! You can clearly see the footprint of the panel. In a sense, the panel is too close, but only because the plants can't handle that level of photosynthesis. Brix is 7 ... ??
I'd wait another week for the Cat unless it's a fast finisher. What's the strain and how long does it run?
Graytail, thanks for the succinct response. The strain is Lung Candy from Mota Rebel, flowering time is listed as 53-63 days. I have a clone that I used to sex the plant and I allowed it to bloom. It's been flowering for probably 90+ and still has crystal clear trichs.
I have only been doing Brix foliar every 10 days and after reading, I'm thinking I may have been mixing it too weak? I was mixing it at 1 mL of Brix per ounce of RO water. Keep in mind, several weeks back I learned I was waaaay underfeeding the GE so I assume the Brix level is a little low due to that fact AND if the Brix has been weak, the combination has her wanting for more all the time.
Doc, thanks for weighing in. I'll get her a rescue drench tonight. Can you (any of you for that matter) clarify the amount I should use? The instructions state one ounce of Transplant per gallon of water and I usually water this one with five gallons of water. So...truly five ounces of Transplant? Then the tea at 6 mils--I assume it's 6 mils no matter the amount of water?
EDIT: I keep forgetting all of your instructions cover six plants in seven gallon containers. I'm in a pot that is nearly three times a single plant.
While I'm at it, I also wanted to clarify how much water I should be using. I believe I've seen you state that we should water until 20% runoff occurs. Is that for EVERY watering, whether it's a drench or straight water? What happens if we don't? Build up?
- Thread starter
- #10,431
Low quality pics. Around day 25 from change to 11.5/12.5. Used my (untested) vc and Malibu compost as topdress with oyster shell powder and gypsum.
[As long as it is 90% or more limestone (calcium carbonate) it will work]
Waukesha Shur-tred non slipping barn lime will not work. They told me it is only 21% Elemental Calcium. Just to let everyone know!
Waukesha Shur-tred non slipping barn lime will not work. They told me it is only 21% Elemental Calcium. Just to let everyone know!
- Thread starter
- #10,434
Low quality pics. Around day 25 from change to 11.5/12.5. Used my (untested) vc and Malibu compost as topdress with oyster shell powder and gypsum.
Beautiful!
Doc,
I just popped open a bottle of BRIX, from a bulk order, and it appears different than bottles before.
It's browner, foams when shaken, and smells very fishy.
Should I be concerned? Or is it a new formula?
Thank you
I just popped open a bottle of BRIX, from a bulk order, and it appears different than bottles before.
It's browner, foams when shaken, and smells very fishy.
Should I be concerned? Or is it a new formula?
Thank you
Gaffle
Well-Known Member
I have a ratio question Doc. Before my question I gotta let you know this is my first grow, and I don't want to F it up. I am really looking forward to a successful grow/harvest. On to the question.
My space is 3x3. I am only starting out with 2 plants, Blue Dream from Herbies. I'm going to start in 1gallon and move up to 7 or 10 gallons. My mixing ratios will be a lot less than your instructions regarding 6 plants. As of right now I am planning on just weighing out your products for proper ratios. Is that cool? Any advice for starting off small?
I don't want to create a lot of waste. I know amount of water needed will be some trial depending on plant and runoff. I plan on hand watering, dunno if I will do the bucket dunking.
Thx Doc!
My space is 3x3. I am only starting out with 2 plants, Blue Dream from Herbies. I'm going to start in 1gallon and move up to 7 or 10 gallons. My mixing ratios will be a lot less than your instructions regarding 6 plants. As of right now I am planning on just weighing out your products for proper ratios. Is that cool? Any advice for starting off small?
I don't want to create a lot of waste. I know amount of water needed will be some trial depending on plant and runoff. I plan on hand watering, dunno if I will do the bucket dunking.
Thx Doc!
SmokeyMcFly
Well-Known Member
Use the 10s instead of the 7s especially since this is your first grow. The bigger the pot gets the easier it is. Also get softie cloth pots it makes over watering very difficult to do (usually the number 1 newbie mistake). The bucket drench is a lot easier when they are still in the 1 gallon pots, I stop doing it when they go in the big ones because I can't really handle moving them around once they are at that point but they really like it so I would do it when they are still in the 1gallons, its easy enough to just put a bit of water in a 5gal bucket and drop the pot right in it and let it soak up the water for 10 min or so
When you're drenching just calculate per gallon of soil. I usually start out with .5ml of drench per gallon of soil and work up from there if needed.
Welcome to the
- Thread starter
- #10,438
New formula. no problem. Fish juice differs from batch to batch but rest assured it's going to perform.
- Thread starter
- #10,439
Use the 10s instead of the 7s especially since this is your first grow. The bigger the pot gets the easier it is. Also get softie cloth pots it makes over watering very difficult to do (usually the number 1 newbie mistake). The bucket drench is a lot easier when they are still in the 1 gallon pots, I stop doing it when they go in the big ones because I can't really handle moving them around once they are at that point but they really like it so I would do it when they are still in the 1gallons, its easy enough to just put a bit of water in a 5gal bucket and drop the pot right in it and let it soak up the water for 10 min or so
When you're drenching just calculate per gallon of soil. I usually start out with .5ml of drench per gallon of soil and work up from there if needed.
Welcome to the
Everything Smokey just said! If at all possible, I highly recommend mixing up at least half the bale of Promix and keeping the rest around till whenever you need it. It's much easier to split the bag of amendment than to weigh it out for each individual container. I would avoid the latter.
Gaffle
Well-Known Member
When you're drenching just calculate per gallon of soil. I usually start out with .5ml of drench per gallon of soil and work up from there if needed.
Welcome to the
Thx Smokey/Doc.The .ml per gallon is what I am looking for. I am planning on cloth pots for sure. Going to go 1 gallon to 10 gallon, sold! I just didn't want mix up too much drench and dump extra down the drain.
I already mixed a whole bale of pro-mix. Going on 2 weeks of cooking. Getting ready to rock and roll. I want to know exactly what when and how proir to MJ lift off.
Pumped to add another brix journal to 420.
This party is great!