super soil:
Vermicrop=base
dolemite lime + gypsium+ rock phosphate = Calcium
granular azomite = micro nutes
plant success granular = mycos
EWC = nitrogen
guano(low N)= phosphurus
Humisoil= micro beneficial and humic acids
anything else Doc?
Perlite?
You do understand that I haven't done this yet....right?
Mix the EWC into the base soil, along with the zeolite or perlite or volcanic rock....your choice.
The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)
Mix 1 cup of the combined products (Lime, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum) into each square foot of soil to a depth of six inches.
azomite: mix ½ cup into each square foot of soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Mix in your humus product and the beneficials as well.
You might put in a pinch of Iron Sulfate. (moss magic at Home Depot)
Lastly, mix in a nice general organic fertilizer....but not too much. Cottonseed meal is a good one here, alfalfa meal might also be good.
Make sure to line each hole for transplants with the mycorrhizal innoculant.
Water the whole thing down with a microbial tea....yucca extract is also very helpful when using the tea, I'm told.
Let it sit for 2 weeks minimum before planting.
Next, you want to get a foliar feed product called BrixBlaster or Amaze.
Once a week water with microbial tea, yucca. Fertilize as needed....you could use a balanced guano product, Fox Farms Big Bloom or other product like that. Maybe a bit of kelp from time to time, but take it easy!!! This system is supposed to supercharge nutes.
Once a week give the plants a thorough foliar feed with Brixblaster or Amaze.
That's it!
The soil, EWC and mild fertilizer is probably enough to see the plant through if you're using a larger pot. If not, you may have to feed once or twice, and might need to do a mild recharge of the rock powders....just watch the plants and decide.
This concept isn't about NPK.....it's a completely different idea. Calcium is the main thing here, also phosphates.
Ca ions are positively charged while phosphorus is negatively charged. These two ions when first put in the soil form a battery. The electrical charge can be measured! What this does is optimize the cation exchange rate of the soil.
Eventually, the positive and negative ions all meet eachother and balance out forming a substance that the plant can't use......but that microbes LOVE! As they go to work on the Cal/phos they basically recharge the battery and feed the plant like crazy. As long as the microbes are healthy, there is an abundant supply of Ca and phosphorus in the right ratio......the plant can feed like crazy.
The other minerals are also needed for various enzyme pathways, etc.
The NPK is not nearly as important.....as long as there's NPK in the soil, the bugs will find it, package it, season it, and deliver it to the plant like never before. You especially need to be careful with kelp and compost, as both are very high in potassium, which will mess up the cation exchange.
So......go real easy on the organic fertilizers.....this method is different from the supersoil! I'm going to try it with the supersoil.....but I suspect I'll get better results with a soil that is much less hot.
From what I've learned so far......the key is the rock powder and trace minerals. If plants will grow in the soil to begin with, the rock/trace will turn the battery on.
All we need to do is keep the microbes robust and happy.....just feed 'em a bit each week and add new recruits. Here's where your worm teas come in and perhaps a bit of organic matter from time to time.
Also, the yucca and foliar feeds.
I know this will work.....but I don't know the ratios for specific soils just yet. Stay tuned.
