Creating Female Seeds Using Colloidal Silver - With High Brix

Good info there. I too believe it telegraphes thru the plant to a certain degree. When I use to reverse just one branch of a plant, no matter how careful I was there would be multiple branches affected by the CS. Usually in the general vicinity of the treated branch but once I had one reverse on the other side of the plant. I'm sticking to reversing entire mini plants.

I get far better results with air pollination than I do with any other method. A full mini-reversal in the middle of a bunch of ladies could do some amazing things. :eyebrowsmile:
 
You won't be able to smoke anything it has come in contact with. Washed or not. It's beyond horrible. My concern is that it may telegraph through the plant to a degree. I also did a little more research on melting point. It's about 1700 deg. F for silver so it depends on the flame source for us. Butane lighters can get to around 3500 deg F while a hemp wick likely falls bellow the 1700 deg mark. I can't find a real temp for one though.
Silver is a Noble Metal so it's not toxic like a Heavy Metal. Regardless, too much of anything is usually not good so I would not make a continual practice of smoking treated plants whether it can be tasted or not. I like the idea of solo cups. I've more or less moved all my breeding and seeding projects to small pots for less waste in the end. With early treatments and S1 seeds on the same plant it renders it useless for anything but edibles. This will be my normal approach from now on. Late treatments will likely be kept in reserve for emergency measures. I feel safer whether it is or not :laughtwo:

:Namaste:

i just wrote BIC asking about the temperature of a BIC lighter. ..because it cant be as hot as claimed under perfect conditions..., ...I will post when they write back..


:Namaste:
 
i just wrote BIC asking about the temperature of a BIC lighter. ..because it cant be as hot as claimed under perfect conditions..., ...I will post when they write back..


:Namaste:

Thanks! Seems like a high figure to me too. A pound of butane produces about 21k btu. That's equal to a small gas fireplace or water heater. It looks like people simply took the figure for butane and applied it to Bic lighters. I saw something from an engineer who guessed the real figure at 800-900C which is much lower. He said he couldn't find a figure either lol. Sounds more believable though. I looked up the MSDS sheets for Bic lighters. No temps but it doesn't look like pure butane either. So many factors come into play. Air, distance etc. I doubt we are doing any welding in our bowls, but it would be nice to know what the manufacturer says. I also just found out that the melting point of brass is about the same as silver. You'd think a brass screen would melt with a Bic. May not be pure brass, but still.. :hmmm:
 
Thanks! Seems like a high figure to me too. A pound of butane produces about 21k btu. That's equal to a small gas fireplace or water heater. It looks like people simply took the figure for butane and applied it to Bic lighters. I saw something from an engineer who guessed the real figure at 800-900C which is much lower. He said he couldn't find a figure either lol. Sounds more believable though. I looked up the MSDS sheets for Bic lighters. No temps but it doesn't look like pure butane either. So many factors come into play. Air, distance etc. I doubt we are doing any welding in our bowls, but it would be nice to know what the manufacturer says. I also just found out that the melting point of brass is about the same as silver. You'd think a brass screen would melt with a Bic. May not be pure brass, but still.. :hmmm:

i agree..it may be dogma that we are dealing with..
 
Just a thought about flame temp and bic lighters... I know that the temp of the flame generally relates the to color of flame... here is something I found: Not sure if this helps at all but interesting to say the least.

Red
Just visible: 525 °C (980 °F)
Dull: 700 °C (1,300 °F)
Cherry, dull: 800 °C (1,500 °F)
Cherry, full: 900 °C (1,700 °F)
Cherry, clear: 1,000 °C (1,800 °F)
Orange
Deep: 1,100 °C (2,000 °F)
Clear: 1,200 °C (2,200 °F)
White
Whitish: 1,300 °C (2,400 °F)
Bright: 1,400 °C (2,600 °F)
Dazzling: 1,500 °C (2,700 °F)
According to the info above (source: Wikipedia) the difference between red-hot and white-hot is about 1000 degrees. But what about blue-hot?

Anytime you see blue in a fire it is hotter than white. The range is between 2,600 and 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit and its the most oxygen-rich type of flame. A bunsen burner is a good example:
Color also tells us about the temperature of a candle flame. The inner core of the candle flame is light blue, with a temperature of around 1800 K (1500 °C). That is the hottest part of the flame. The color inside the flame becomes yellow, orange, and finally red. The further you get from the center of the flame, the lower the temperature will be. The brightest red portion is around 1070 K (800 °C).

The round blue flame is a photo of a candle burning experiment in the International Space Station. Candle flames on earth have several different temperatures within the flame due to the variations caused by convection flows. In the zero gravity of the space station the flame burns rounder, slower, hotter and more blue.
 
Test #2 is coming along well. Here's the treated branch vs the untreated branch. The strain is Permafrost. I want to say three weeks but it may not even be that long. I'll have to check dates next time I go into Mirkwood Forest.
Permafrost_Reversal.jpg


Permafrost_Reversal_non-treated_branch.jpg


:Namaste:
 
I was doing a little research on Ethylene in cannabis and tripped over this old gem. :)
I remember reading about it somewhere, probably here, but never pursued it. May have to give it a try sometime. It's not as versatile as CS or STS but could be fun in it's own way. I figured I'd share, but it's not quite the information I'm looking for. :geek:
Using bananas to feminise your seeds.

Holy shit! Nope found it. Google search 'ethylene synthesis in plants' Then the link for 'scholarly articles'. Should be first. It looks like we are old school folks :laughtwo: Today's thing is reversal and ripening control using bacteria, or parts of, to control the ethylene production or reaction within the plant. Looks a little GMO at a quick glance. I'm thinking a nap before I dive into that.

:passitleft:
 
I was doing a little research on Ethylene in cannabis and tripped over this old gem. :)
I remember reading about it somewhere, probably here, but never pursued it. May have to give it a try sometime. It's not as versatile as CS or STS but could be fun in it's own way. I figured I'd share, but it's not quite the information I'm looking for. :geek:
Using bananas to feminise your seeds.

Holy shit! Nope found it. Google search 'ethylene synthesis in plants' Then the link for 'scholarly articles'. Should be first. It looks like we are old school folks :laughtwo: Today's thing is reversal and ripening control using bacteria, or parts of, to control the ethylene production or reaction within the plant. Looks a little GMO at a quick glance. I'm thinking a nap before I dive into that.

:passitleft:

i placed banana peels and orange peels in my tent a few grow ago for increasing the environmental terp profiles :)

results were inconclusive...:high-five:
 
i placed banana peels and orange peels in my tent a few grow ago for increasing the environmental terp profiles :)

results were inconclusive...:high-five:

I'm kind of curious what a dark period with some food rot going on might do. I've never played around with atmospheric short of CO2, temp, FAE and RH. :hmmm: A cure that way may be interesting also. A vented ferment jar or two might be better to manage than the actual rotting fruit. Maybe I'll try it when I make my next batch of sups in about a year :laughtwo:

I don't know if it's just me, but it seems like these male flowers from early CS treatments mature faster than with standard later treatments. This is two days from the last pic..
Permafrost_Early_CS_Reversal.jpg

There's going to be a few poppers soon. Maybe in time to self this plant. :cheertwo:

:Namaste:
 
Ice, I'd would definitely try the STS route..:Namaste:

Good to see you! :)

Hey Dr. Ziggy...

I've thought about using STS..but seems that its some pretty nasty stuff and since I live in a rather small apartment, I'm not sure if I want to mess with it without a garage or outdoor area to mix it in. I'm going to give CS another go as it worked like a charm the 1st run... 2nd run I believe my plant was sterile as pollen sacks formed, but no pollen.

Here is the stuff I used
Bio-Silver-Ultra-Colloidal-Silver-50-ppm-8-oz-0.jpg
 
Hey Dr. Ziggy...

I've thought about using STS..but seems that its some pretty nasty stuff and since I live in a rather small apartment, I'm not sure if I want to mess with it without a garage or outdoor area to mix it in. I'm going to give CS another go as it worked like a charm the 1st run... 2nd run I believe my plant was sterile as pollen sacks formed, but no pollen.

Here is the stuff I used
Bio-Silver-Ultra-Colloidal-Silver-50-ppm-8-oz-0.jpg

i used the same for my first run with good success..:thumb:
 
I just used C. S. on two plants, a Kosher Kush and an Amherst Sour Diesel that I got a couple clones off of before the mom had to be sacrificed (sore subject.)

Both of the clones that were sprayed have shown balls so I severely defoliation them (and the female recipients) and separated both sets. I stalled the female recipients 2 weeks longer before putting them into flower, it looks like it's going to be pretty close.
 
I was wondering if it was too late or otherwise inadvisable to spray this plant with CS... Flipped to 12/12 two days ago.

IMG_20170408_151836.jpg


As you can see she's not a happy girl. My plan was to keep her as a mother plant at first, but then decided I should flower her and take clones off the clones I took so that way I'm not wasting time I could be flowering. Well, one thing lead to another, and I pretty much shocked the crap out of it and I don't think it's going to yield very much bud. So, with that in mind, I figured I might as well try to get some pollen out of it too. I think by the time I get pollen off of it, the clones I have should be ready to go into flower. I've stored pollen in the freezer before and applied it and all...

Only thing I'm worried about is I flipped to 12/12 two days ago and it was already showing pre-flowers because I'd flipped it to 12/12 once before to sex it. That and I wonder if taking pollen off a sick plant like this is a great idea. Then again, the last time I harvested pollen was from pretty questionable pedigree too, and that all worked out.

Anyway, this is Blackberry Kush, supposedly Afghan x Blackberry. I can't find seeds for it online and just managed to find bagseeds for it. It's very tasty and potent smoke so I want to keep it going, and I'm more confident storing seeds of it than running clones with it. Not to mention I have other strains to try. If it's too late to spray this one with CS I'll probably wait to spray one of the clones, I think it's worth it to save.

Only concern I have is that it will essentially be S2 seed. My plan originally was to keep this scrogged plant as a mother, spray the clones, get S2 pollen, then backcross that against the mother plant. I'm wondering if it is going to be the same quality as what I got if it's S2, if it won't be as stable, etc.

Uhh anyway sorry for the ramble.
 
I wanted to throw this out there for all you breeders :) look up "Phylos Bioscience" and check out their "galaxy" which is a mapping of thousands of cannabis strains, which shows their phylogenetic trees and how they relate to each other. I know I've mentioned it a few times in my threads and videos and I think Graytail also has mentioned it a few times...

Make sure to leave yourself some hours to explore the galaxy as it is awesome!
 
I was wondering if it was too late or otherwise inadvisable to spray this plant with CS... Flipped to 12/12 two days ago.

IMG_20170408_151836.jpg


As you can see she's not a happy girl. My plan was to keep her as a mother plant at first, but then decided I should flower her and take clones off the clones I took so that way I'm not wasting time I could be flowering. Well, one thing lead to another, and I pretty much shocked the crap out of it and I don't think it's going to yield very much bud. So, with that in mind, I figured I might as well try to get some pollen out of it too. I think by the time I get pollen off of it, the clones I have should be ready to go into flower. I've stored pollen in the freezer before and applied it and all...

Only thing I'm worried about is I flipped to 12/12 two days ago and it was already showing pre-flowers because I'd flipped it to 12/12 once before to sex it. That and I wonder if taking pollen off a sick plant like this is a great idea. Then again, the last time I harvested pollen was from pretty questionable pedigree too, and that all worked out.

Anyway, this is Blackberry Kush, supposedly Afghan x Blackberry. I can't find seeds for it online and just managed to find bagseeds for it. It's very tasty and potent smoke so I want to keep it going, and I'm more confident storing seeds of it than running clones with it. Not to mention I have other strains to try. If it's too late to spray this one with CS I'll probably wait to spray one of the clones, I think it's worth it to save.

Only concern I have is that it will essentially be S2 seed. My plan originally was to keep this scrogged plant as a mother, spray the clones, get S2 pollen, then backcross that against the mother plant. I'm wondering if it is going to be the same quality as what I got if it's S2, if it won't be as stable, etc.

Uhh anyway sorry for the ramble.


I've started treatments as late as a week, maybe two after flip before. They worked but they were only the stump with a reversed branch left by the time it pollinated. I'm calling that the stump method lol. Seems somewhat consistent with the regular method as I end up with stumps both ways often.

I'm trying a short two day treatment on a girl that was about a week after flip. That was maybe a week ago so I don't expect to see anything.. if anything for another three weeks or so. This whole timing thing really has my curiosity :laughtwo:

:hmmm: Personally I think there's still a lot of .. well not so much myth as unclarity in breeding when it comes to things like S1 vs S2. They say that S1 has more vigor. Let's break out the vigometer and find out :rofl: Really??? What does that mean? lol. To me vigor is something that manifests in a phenotype. S1 and S2 are more or less clones of that pheno in a seed version. It may have more ability to deviate genetically than a clone, but I wouldn't think it would be much compared to the genetic scramble of dealing with true male / female breeding. Which is where a lot of the fear comes from. "Vigor" is more of a marketing word in the push to sell fem seeds IMO. Breeder fem seeds are the results of all that hard work of dealing with male/female genetics, finding the right pheno, isolating it and then producing a fem version to sell. Of course if you made your own S2 of it they wouldn't be as good ;) The one you buy has got to be better. Possibly exaggerated genetic deviance which I don't doubt happens, but I doubt to the degree of all the voodoo. I have clone strains 17 years, 15 years and 12 years, lost count of the generations years ago, that are every bit as (hehe) vigorous.. now as they were when I got them. I've Rodelized easily 15-20 different strains and taken a few of those well over S30 and only seen Senescence twice and one of those was with a male/female bred strain the other was with a clone. Jeeze, I got a rant bug crawling up my bum :clown: Better go find my bong.
 
I've started treatments as late as a week, maybe two after flip before. They worked but they were only the stump with a reversed branch left by the time it pollinated. I'm calling that the stump method lol. Seems somewhat consistent with the regular method as I end up with stumps both ways often.

I'm trying a short two day treatment on a girl that was about a week after flip. That was maybe a week ago so I don't expect to see anything.. if anything for another three weeks or so. This whole timing thing really has my curiosity :laughtwo:

:hmmm: Personally I think there's still a lot of .. well not so much myth as unclarity in breeding when it comes to things like S1 vs S2. They say that S1 has more vigor. Let's break break out the vigometer and find out :rofl: Really??? What does that mean? lol. To me vigor is something that manifests in a phenotype. S1 and S2 are more or less clones of that pheno in a seed version. It may have more ability to deviate genetically than a clone, but I wouldn't think it would be much compared to the genetic scramble of dealing with true male / female breeding. Which is where a lot of the fear comes from. "Vigor" is more of a marketing word in the push to sell fem seeds IMO. Breeder fem seeds are the results of all that hard work of dealing with male/female genetics, finding the right pheno, isolating it and then producing a fem version to sell. Of course if you made your own S2 of it they wouldn't be as good ;) The one you buy has got to be better. Possibly exaggerated genetic deviance which I don't doubt happens, but I doubt to the degree of all the voodoo. I have clone strains 17 years, 15 years and 12 years, lost count of the generations years ago, that are every bit as (hehe) vigorous.. now as they were when I got them. I've Rodelized easily 15-20 different strains and taken a few of those well over S30 and only seen Senescence twice and one of those was with a male/female bred strain the other was with a clone. Jeeze, I got a rant bug crawling up my bum :clown: Better go find my bong.

I could listen to a rant about that, I don't get to hear enough genetics talk! lol Doesn't seem as many people are as interested in breeding. TO me it seems like a no brainer... I could probably go without buying another seed for quite a while with all the variations I could make crossing and what not.

Anyway, I think I'm going to pick up some CS then. I saw nismo and Canna Montana spray half of their plant, so I think maybe I will try that too. Is 30 PPM a strong enough concentration of it? I guess I gotta read up on mixing it and stuff again.
 
I could listen to a rant about that, I don't get to hear enough genetics talk! lol Doesn't seem as many people are as interested in breeding. TO me it seems like a no brainer... I could probably go without buying another seed for quite a while with all the variations I could make crossing and what not.

Anyway, I think I'm going to pick up some CS then. I saw nismo and Canna Montana spray half of their plant, so I think maybe I will try that too. Is 30 PPM a strong enough concentration of it? I guess I gotta read up on mixing it and stuff again.

50ppm CS is working for me. My STS is always a guess but it works great.

Yeah, sometimes I think I've been around forums too long :laughtwo: It's been a day of reading "hermie" talk again. :sigh: I gotta quit reading other places. It's almost as bad as the news. I catch myself talking to the screen.. "well you shouldn't stress your plants" "no, it's not the breeders fault that you chose to go with m/f genetics rather than the feminized when all you wanted was some fire." "no, fem seeds do not generate more hermies, but stress will so back to step one." "and besides, the word 'hermie' is a misconstrued slang term. it's either prone to hermaphroditism through influence or it's a pure natural hermaphrodite which mostly applies to sativas." Bear in mind I'm not a geneticist or a pro breeder. I'm just a cranky shit today. :icon_roll

Still reserving some good reversing vibes for ya tho :passitleft:

:Namaste:
 
I just used C. S. on two plants, a Kosher Kush and an Amherst Sour Diesel that I got a couple clones off of before the mom had to be sacrificed (sore subject.)

Both of the clones that were sprayed have shown balls so I severely defoliation them (and the female recipients) and separated both sets. I stalled the female recipients 2 weeks longer before putting them into flower, it looks like it's going to be pretty close.

It shouldn't be long now as "Bruce" has started dropping a little pollen.
Kosher Kush - Colloidal Silver - Kicked out of main grow area
Leaning.jpg
Male65.jpg
Female45.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom