Cr8grow’s Original Glue Auto Grow #5 2021

[cr8grow]

Mdlroad...plants looking good. My first grow Nirvana GSC photo flowered 7-8 weeks, as Nirvana stated. Hopefully I can chop these autos the end of week 10. The scope will tell. Cheers.

 

[Sunnyskies]

Slow and steady my Braddah! Every plant has a different time table. They are looking great so far. Still has plenty time to fill in and fill up! Aloha!

 

[Bill284]

Bill284, Agreed, burnt tips not a problem. I am feeding at half strength veg nutes. Regarding PHing my well tap water, it starts at 7.9 up to 8.3 depending on the day. I have routinely adjusted PH to 6.5 and now 6.2 since my first grow. I’ve heard from many purchased soil is buffered and doesn’t need to be adjusted. My organic flower nutes take it down to about 6.5 anyway. Our well water tastes great (I’m sitting on a wooded ancient sand dune across the road from Lake Michigan) and does have a fair amount of minerals. I will switch over to full flower nutes next water this weekend, but wanted to maximize stretch first.

Do you have a good view of the lake. I'm envious I'm on town water. Hard and full of chlorine. Keep up the good work my friend.

 

[dick23rk]

Hey cr8, the autos are looking great so far and the training will certainly help fill out the tent. Going to sub up and see some organics at work, the growth has been quite vigorous for you as I seen in the pictures, impressive. Keep up the good work

 

[cr8grow]

Do you have a good view of the lake. I'm envious I'm on town water. Hard and full of chlorine. Keep up the good work my friend.

Bill284, I’m on 4 acres of mixed hardwoods and hemlock groves. We put in a 1/2 mile looping trail on the property. The “lake trail” and “lake loop” trails have a nice view of the lake from top of our property. The trails have been a lifesaver during the lockdown. Summer project is a decent tree house up top with wood stove and deck with lake view. Ambitious...we will see among all other projects. Will be tapping maples along the trail this weekend.

 

[cr8grow]

Slow and steady my Braddah! Every plant has a different time table. They are looking great so far. Still has plenty time to fill in and fill up! Aloha!

Sunny, thanks for stopping by. I’m watching as you are continuing to tune in your grow style. All looking good over there despite the pests. Good treatment advice I will reference if I have an issue. CMXL Auto grow 3 flashback...I have another this run because one Original Glue perished. Oddly leggy like a male but flowering nicely...could be epic buds. Cheers.

 

[cr8grow]

Hey cr8, the autos are looking great so far and the training will certainly help fill out the tent. Going to sub up and see some organics at work, the growth has been quite vigorous for you as I seen in the pictures, impressive. Keep up the good work

dick23rk, Plants are about as bushy as I can manage to pull and rotate to water. LST done. They will get uglier later as the fans are consumed for N. Not the best for contest pics, but buds will fatten right up.

 

[TechnicianGrower]

Right on man. Subbed I’m on my first auto grow always been interested in nirvana genetics I’m growing their Swiss Cheese auto it will be cool to compare their autos. Looking good Man U should get a good yield

 

[Bill284]

Bill284, I’m on 4 acres of mixed hardwoods and hemlock groves. We put in a 1/2 mile looping trail on the property. The “lake trail” and “lake loop” trails have a nice view of the lake from top of our property. The trails have been a lifesaver during the lockdown. Summer project is a decent tree house up top with wood stove and deck with lake view. Ambitious...we will see among all other projects. Will be tapping maples along the trail this weekend.
View attachment 2320742

Thats fantastic. I haven't made maple syrup in years. Nic pic of your outdoor too. Enjoy the trails my friend, stay safe.

 

[cr8grow]

Right on man. Subbed I’m on my first auto grow always been interested in nirvana genetics I’m growing their Swiss Cheese auto it will be cool to compare their autos. Looking good Man U should get a good yield

TechnicianGrower, Welcome aboard. I’m on auto grow #3...nice and fast. Good to yield 10 top shelf ozs in 10 weeks (plus dry and cure). I’m still shooting for 12 ozs. In my 3x3 cabinet. Do you have a journal here?

 

[dick23rk]

dick23rk, Plants are about as bushy as I can manage to pull and rotate to water. LST done. They will get uglier later as the fans are consumed for N. Not the best for contest pics, but buds will fatten right up.

Some plants are great for autumning off, instead of yellows and oranges, you get purples and reds. But so be it if they get uglier, it's the smoke that counts right

 

[cr8grow]

Some plants are great for autumning off, instead of yellows and oranges, you get purples and reds. But so be it if they get uglier, it's the smoke that counts right

dick23rk, I’m finding less fall color with autos compared to photos that know fall has arrived. cool filtered air intake 68F helps there. Photo fall tour plus auto pistils and trichomes.

 

[Bill284]

dick23rk, I’m finding less fall color with autos compared to photos that know fall has arrived. cool filtered air intake 68F helps there. Photo fall tour plus auto pistils and trichomes.

Amazing.

 

[Mdlroad]

TechnicianGrower, Welcome aboard. I’m on auto grow #3...nice and fast. Good to yield 10 top shelf ozs in 10 weeks (plus dry and cure). I’m still shooting for 12 ozs. In my 3x3 cabinet. Do you have a journal here?

How many plants for 10oz yield

 

[cr8grow]

How many plants for 10oz yield

Mdlroad, All 5 grows have been 4 plants each time. I did upgrade from 3 to 5 gallon pots on the 4th grow to increase yields.

 

[Mdlroad]

Mdlroad, All 5 grows have been 4 plants each time. I did upgrade from 3 to 5 gallon pots on the 4th grow to increase yields.

Ok just trying to get a bench mark on yield. My 1st grow getting close to harvest 3 gorilla glue autos. So 2oz per plant would be good for a newbie. I hope mine turn out that well. I have nothing to compare to but I think I'll be close to that 2oz mark

 

[RetiredRN]

Hello my friend i hope you are well. Your girls are beautiful.
However they are in full fledged flower mode and should be fed flowering nutrients according to your chart from nutrient company.
Also just wondering why your ph,ing your water. Unless I missed something your in soil which does not require the water to be adjusted.
Also you said you burnt your tips at 1/4 strength nutrients. Don't fret about burnt tips. Keep going. There is no way your going to max out your potential pull if you feed 1/4 anything. Girls that big i would try and push to 1800 ppm thats in coco. See my girls burnt tips and beautiful buds.
Try and get on that schedule, your girls will reward you

Hey @Bill284, I was Wondering about your comment that he should not be pHing his water. The nutrients are use run my pH down to 4.0 so if I did not up my pH I would kill my plants is this correct or no?????

 

[Bill284]

Hey @Bill284, I was Wondering about your comment that he should not be pHing his water. The nutrients are use run my pH down to 4.0 so if I did not up my pH I would kill my plants is this correct or no?????

From what I understand Phing you feed in soil isn't necessary. The stuff you put into mix to change the ph not recommended. I grow in coco so I can't say from my experience. But from what I've read from others Soil buffers your feed and plants absorb what they want. If you look at @Emilya journals you will see she doesn't pH her feed.
She has soil grows you should read when you get a chance. Good stuff.

 

[Emilya Green]

From what I understand Phing you feed in soil isn't necessary. The stuff you put into mix to change the ph not recommended. I grow in coco so I can't say from my experience. But from what I've read from others Soil buffers your feed and plants absorb what they want. If you look at @Emilya journals you will see she doesn't pH her feed.
She has soil grows you should read when you get a chance. Good stuff.

I don't pH my water because I am not using chelated nutes that require being in a certain pH range before the nutes can break out of their chelated bonds and become available to the plant. If I ran synthetic nutes, you can be sure that I would carefully pH adjust all of my fluids to 6.3 pH immediately before applying it to the plants, no matter the soil I might be in, buffered or not.

Yes, some folks have gotten famous claiming that you don't have to pH adjust in certain buffered soils, and technically they are right... but there is a cost associated with this lazy gardening practice. Let's say you mix up your nutes and find that your mix is now at 5.3 pH. You can apply that to your soil and trust the buffers to get it into the needed range for the nutes to become mobile, and yes, some soils have enough dolomite in it that this will start the reaction with your nute water as soon as you apply it. It will take time however for this to adjust your nute water down into the usable range and for a significant amount of time as it is still adjusting, your nutes are totally invisible to your plant... they are locked up as tightly as they were in the bottle. For that period of time, only a portion of the nutes in the mix are available to the plant and you are not getting proper nutrition.

Doesn't it make sense to manually adjust the pH of your fluids so that all of the nutes are immediately available?? Are you really willing to go 12 - 24 hours before your nutes actually start working after you water your plants? As in all things, doing things right the first time, is usually best.

 

[Mdlroad]

I don't pH my water because I am not using chelated nutes that require being in a certain pH range before the nutes can break out of their chelated bonds and become available to the plant. If I ran synthetic nutes, you can be sure that I would carefully pH adjust all of my fluids to 6.3 pH immediately before applying it to the plants, no matter the soil I might be in, buffered or not.

Yes, some folks have gotten famous claiming that you don't have to pH adjust in certain buffered soils, and technically they are right... but there is a cost associated with this lazy gardening practice. Let's say you mix up your nutes and find that your mix is now at 5.3 pH. You can apply that to your soil and trust the buffers to get it into the needed range for the nutes to become mobile, and yes, some soils have enough dolomite in it that this will start the reaction with your nute water as soon as you apply it. It will take time however for this to adjust your nute water down into the usable range and for a significant amount of time as it is still adjusting, your nutes are totally invisible to your plant... they are locked up as tightly as they were in the bottle. For that period of time, only a portion of the nutes in the mix are available to the plant and you are not getting proper nutrition.

Doesn't it make sense to manually adjust the pH of your fluids so that all of the nutes are immediately available?? Are you really willing to go 12 - 24 hours before your nutes actually start working after you water your plants? As in all things, doing things right the first time, is usually best.

I'm a rookie growing in soil in my research I saw you don't need to ph water. I thought rather be safe than sorry so I ph water to around 6.3. I didn't know the science behind it. Guess this rookie got lucky being cautious cautious