Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

Well, one of the Phoenix Sativa Surprises had some nasty white glop on some of the leaves.
(It kinda looks like bird droppings to me, but I don't have any birds in here!)
There is a little bit on one of the cola buds.
What do I do?
Thanks!
oy.jpg
 
Could be mold or it could be what guttation looks like when it dries on the leaves. I'm thinking the latter but keep an eye on it.
Oh!
I had no idea.
So plants can seep liquid through the leaves, and then it dries??? :oops:
I will keep an eye on it!
Thanks!
 
Hola, growmies!
Ok, halleluyah, the soil sample results are finally back!
I could not copy and paste from the PDF, so I took screen snippets and marked them up.
I think this first one says that N, P, and K are all high(!), but that I need to add iron (Fe), and Manganese (Mn).

Soil Sample 1.jpg


I think this next one says Potassium (K) saturation is high????
Magnesium (Mg) saturation (below) is low, even though the interpretation value (above) is that it was high?

Soil Sample 2.jpg


I think this one says I need to add some iron (Fe) and copper (Cu)?
Will rusty nails work for iron? Or should I spring for some Iron Chelate?
Also, how does one add copper Cu?

Soil Sample 3.jpg

The narrative is pretty funny.
I think it says there is plenty of calcium (but Magnesium saturation is low).
They want me to add some nitrogen (urine, dog water) in maintenance doses.
If it was an agricultural land, they want me to wash the salts out.
They recommend I add some iron (Fe). (Are rusty nails good enough for this? Or is a chelate better?)

Soil Sample 4.jpg


This one recommends an iron chelate.
I can get liquid iron chelate for cheap here, for short term.
Does putting nails in the soil work for iron (at least long term)?

Soil Sample 5.jpg


And the big drum-roll questions...
:tommy:
What would you recommend?
Macros:
Nitrogen from dog water (urine) is free.
It says Phosphorus (P) is not needed (and no one has mentioned a deficiency).
They also say there is no deficiency of K (!) but Emmie, Shed, Otter, and others have all called it (at least I think tha's right...) And I have kelp granules on the way for K (and I like the idea of kelp).

Micros:
I can get iron from nails long term (or liquid iron chelate is also cheap here).
Since I already have enough calcium, how do I raise the available magnesium?
And how do I address the low manganese availability? (I can get liquid chelates to tide me over, but long term I would really prefer to mix it in with the soil, for the re-cook.)
And how do I add copper (Cu)?

¡Muchísimas gracias!
 
Here is from GrowWeedEasy (I hope it is ok to reference their Plant Doctor section).

Here is Cu Copper: (It does seem similar to this, to me.)
cu.jpg


My edges turn REALLY yellow!

And here is Fe iron:
Iron.jpg


(Not sure if this is helpful.)
 
Here are some garden shots for comparison.
This is my "Phoenix Sativa Surprise Auto" (Phoenix CBD 1:1 Auto) that is rapidly turning yellow, even though I bumped the PK 13-14 to 10 tablespoons per gallon!

Phoenix Sativa Surprise.jpg


Here is her neighbor, Afghan Mass XXL Auto (everyone is on 10 tablespoons of Pk 13-14 per gallon now).
Afghan Mass XXL.jpg


And here is Delicious Cheese (Delicious Candy):
Delicious Candy.jpg


If you need any more (or any better) pics, please let me know.
Thank you again.
(These SIPs sure are different! Haha!)
 
Noob question:
Do more expert eyes still see it is a shortage of Potassium (K)?
Or is there any possibility that it *could be a strong shortage of Copper (Cu) coupled with a shortage of Iron (Fe)? (Or is that ridiculous?)

And when I have sufficient Magnesium (Mg) but low Magnesium availability and the pH is neutral, is that called a "lockout"? Or why do I have low Mg availability when I have plenty of it? (And does anyone have any idea what is causing it?)
Thanks.
 
Here are some garden shots for comparison.
This is my "Phoenix Sativa Surprise Auto" (Phoenix CBD 1:1 Auto) that is rapidly turning yellow, even though I bumped the PK 13-14 to 10 tablespoons per gallon!

Phoenix Sativa Surprise.jpg


Here is her neighbor, Afghan Mass XXL Auto (everyone is on 10 tablespoons of Pk 13-14 per gallon now).
Afghan Mass XXL.jpg


And here is Delicious Cheese (Delicious Candy):
Delicious Candy.jpg


If you need any more (or any better) pics, please let me know.
Thank you again.
(These SIPs sure are different! Haha!)
I still see it as mostly phosphorus. Changes are not going to happen overnight. The other deficiencies you mentioned are fairly rare but this one should have been being treated for much earlier, and you wouldn't have lost so many Sun leaves. It looks like you have improvement so keep doing what you're doing.
 
Emmie, thank you so much for being the brave one to respond, and try to help me sort out the mess I have made for myself! :thanks:
I have been getting P and K mixed up, up until about last week! (I hope you are not catching it from me!)
On page 27 you recommend K (Potassium?).
Looks like K to me. Trying to follow multiple advice is very counter productive. Good luck!

Only, now you still see it mainly as Phosphorus (P?).
I still see it as mostly phosphorus. Changes are not going to happen overnight. The other deficiencies you mentioned are fairly rare but this one should have been being treated for much earlier, and you wouldn't have lost so many Sun leaves. It looks like you have improvement so keep doing what you're doing.
Sorry, did I make you dyslexic for a second? Hahaha!
And could you please clarify if you see it as Phosphorus (P) or Potassium (K)?
(It's kinda the same, 'cuz me be adding da PK 13-14, mon! But it would be nice t'know what me doing! Hahahaha!)
 
Emmie, thank you so much for being the brave one to respond, and try to help me sort out the mess I have made for myself! :thanks:
I have been getting P and K mixed up, up until about last week! (I hope you are not catching it from me!)
On page 27 you recommend K (Potassium?).


Only, now you still see it mainly as Phosphorus (P?).

Sorry, did I make you dyslexic for a second? Hahaha!
And could you please clarify if you see it as Phosphorus (P) or Potassium (K)?
(It's kinda the same, 'cuz me be adding da PK 13-14, mon! But it would be nice t'know what me doing! Hahahaha!)
You indeed caught me in this mistake. Yes, I did mean to say potassium, not phosphorus. Sorry about that... I should not post before my morning coffee.

And yes, be patient and let the extra that you are giving have time to work. These plants will never look great again, but you can certainly finish out with a good harvest by not letting this get any worse. Good things come to those who wait.
 
You indeed caught me in this mistake. Yes, I did mean to say potassium, not phosphorus. Sorry about that... I should not post before my morning coffee.
Hahaha! :D
And yes, be patient and let the extra that you are giving have time to work. These plants will never look great again, but you can certainly finish out with a good harvest by not letting this get any worse. Good things come to those who wait.
Amén. Yeah, thanks, Em!! Very true!
Yeah, it is too bad about the Potassium (K) deficiency, and it doesn't look great--but already this crop is wayyy bigger, with wayyyy more frost than the last crop, thanks to your and everyone's help! (And the SIPs are great, too!)
I think my greenbud woes have finally ended!

frosty.jpg


I am very excited to see what the future brings!

This was me a year ago:
:eek::oops::rolleyes::hmmmm: :hmmmm:

And this is me now:
:hmmmm::volcano-smiley::hookah::Rasta:

I am not there yet, but so far it is a huge improvement!!
I am excited to see what the future brings!
Thank you and everyone again!
:thanks::thanks:
 
I broke open my used pots and SIPs, so I can recondition that soil also.
The soil in the SIPs is still kinda damp-wet, so I don't know if you can see, but it looks like the rice hulls broke down some, but they still look mostly there. (I don't think they are halfway gone yet.)
rice hulls.jpg


I imagine that I might want to add some Perlite as the rice hulls break down, but I am not sure how much yet.
(Probably to determine that, I want to let a little bit of soil dry out first, so I can see how much rice hulls really are left. Then I can know how much Perlite I should add.)

Should Perlite be cooked in with the mix?
Or does Perlite NOT need to be cooked in with the mix (and I can mix it in right before I build my SIP pots)?
 
Either works, but the perlite allows for more colonization of the microbes, so better health overall and also less compaction as it cooks. If you can get it, I recommend pumice instead of perlite because it breaks down much more slowly
Great! Thank you Em!
It is cheaper, too! (2/3 the cost.)
(I have two big bags, but when I run out, I will buy pumice stone instead.)
:green_heart:
 
Hola a todos! Jaja.
A big thanks to everyone for helping me get this far!! (It is no small feat! Hahaha! True story!)
:high-five:

I am supposed to get a big bag of Down To Earth kelp meal today. I am not yet 100% sure if it is powdered kelp meal, or if it is granules / choplets.
(I assume kelp meal is easier to access, and therefore the plants eat it sooner, but I don't know that.)
Does anyone know what the correct mix rate is for putting kelp meal / granules in supersoil??
(And how much difference does it make if it is powdered, or granules / choplets?)

I don't know if this helps, but for reference, Clackamas Coot recommends 1 cup per cubic foot in his famous Coot's Mix.
(I realize this is a totally different recipe than what I started with. I just thought it might be a good reference for someone who know more about this subject than I do.)

Clackamas Coot Soil Mix

By volume mix the following...
1/3 Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (CSPM)
1/3 Aeration - I use 3/8" pumice (aka volcanic glass - completely inert)
1/3 Vermicompost

When it comes to CSPM it does not matter one iota as far as the brand as long as it's designated as CSPMA (Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association) which is a partnership between the handful of authorized harvesters and the Canadian government. CSPMA sets the harvest limit and not market demands.
You should ind this at Home Depot and Lowe's in 3.8 cf bales and if it is not available at your local stores then order it online (HomeDepot.com) and have them 'ship to store' at your store of choice. No charge for shipping and handling!
A cubic foot is about 7.20 gallons or 115 cups...

To this I add the following amendments to each 1 cubic foot..
1 cup kelp meal

1 cup neem meal or an equal amount of neem & karanja mix
1 cup of limestone or more exactly Calcium Carbonate CaCO3 so Oyster Shell Powder/flour can also be used as it is also a pure Calcium Carbonate material
1/2 cup Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) available at all DIY stores but you must get the material in the garden section and not in the home remodel section. There are 2 forms of gypsum so make sure you get the one for soil and not walls...

Finally there is the rock dust which I recommend 3 cups of either basalt or granite. Only these 2 materials are 'paramagnetic' which is an integral part of the CeC discussion (Cation exchange Capacity).
Rock dusts like Azomite, bentonite, zeolite and others are called 'colloidal minerals' - alumina-silicate. For example Azomite is a brand name. A geologist would know it as "Hydrated Sodium Calcium Aluminosilicate" and it's known as "Montmorillonite clay"
This clay has been used in France to built ceramic bread ovens which look like a bee hive. They have a small door in the front of the oven where loaves of bread are move in and out using what is called a peel.
While it makes a great ceramic oven I can't find much to cause me to recommend it in a true living soil that is supposed to last 'forever' if taken care of using organic methods.



Okay, so is he saying that Zeolite is (basically) the same as Azomite?
(But... but... Azomite is an off-white powder that makes your head buzz for hours just by touching it.... whereas Zeolyte is a green rocky pebble (and it looks like green perlite????)?????
:hmmmm:
 
Second set of questions:
Just in case I do NOT get enough kelp meal and such added to the supersoil, and I have to augment during fertigation, am I better off with:

DOOR #1:
5 liters of PK-13/14 for +/- $62 USD?
$62.jpg




DOOR #2:
Or am I better off buying water-soluble Down to Earth OMRI Organic Solution Grade Potassium Sulfate 0-0-50?
It probably goes for $24 a pound by the time I get it shipped here.
It also has some Sulfur (S).
(My soil did not test deficient in Sulfur, but I don't know how fast it gets used up...)

kkkkk.jpg



DOOR #3:
The third contestant is Langbeinite, which adds both Sulfur AND Magnesium, for the same cost (probably @$24 USD shipped, for a pound).
I wondered because my soil test said that there is not enough magnesium in the soil (which seems to support what @cbdhemp808 said earlier, about needing magnesium).

Langbeinite.jpg



Any brave souls out there who want to give me something to think about, or some way to add K that does not throw everything else off?

:thanks:
 
I don't have any recommendations but I do have a question. If you are willing to spend money on synthetic nutes to add to your underperforming soil, I'm wondering if you considered running a known quality synthetic nute line (sponsor even!) that will eliminate most of the need to chase one deficiency after another.

This is not a recommendation, but your soil has truly been a struggle this grow and you are obviously willing to drop some coin on solutions.
 
Hi Shed!
I don't have any recommendations but I do have a question. If you are willing to spend money on synthetic nutes to add to your underperforming soil, I'm wondering if you considered running a known quality synthetic nute line (sponsor even!) that will eliminate most of the need to chase one deficiency after another.
:oops::oops::oops:
Synthetic????
This is not a recommendation, but your soil has truly been a struggle this grow and you are obviously willing to drop some coin on solutions.
Hahaha, yeah! Llife is only like 15 times better on CBD 1:1 greenbud, than not!! LOL!! :laugh:
Wow, yes I am on a budget, but no, it almost doesn't matter what I need to spend in the short run!
We were going to be here a year, but now it looks more like two.
The house is cold, and I need to heat it somehow, so a Perfume Room makes perfect sense!
Long run, the plan is to shift over to greenhouse growing, or even rainfly growing (some kind of CBD will grow!!), and then use Azi's nutes, KNF and Jadam teas, etc., to shift over to low-cost solutions.
In the meantime, I am in SIPs indoors under LED. I kinda need this organic soil to work for me for at least 2 years, and then after that it will probably be a new deal. (Probably at that point I will be amending Colombian black volcanic dirt with whatever it needs.)

So... am I totally newbie-dreaming that since the soil is Potassium (K) deficient, that I can just add a rich source of organic K (such as kelp meal), and then there will probably be LESS problems?

Yeah, I know the PK-13/14 thing can't be TOO organic, 'cuz it is a clear liquid!
And I know that the Potassium Sulfate SAYS organic, but how can it be... because it is a powdered crystal??
And I am not sure where Langbeinite comes from, but it also seems like maybe a powder of some kind??
So they SAY organic, but what is the real story????

So I guess the short answer would be that what I really want is to get away from PK-13/14 and powdered crystallized everything as much as possible, and get back closer to the source, if I can do it.
Long term I probably want to grow either in-ground or in pots (maybe SIPs or SWICKs?) in greenhouses, using Azi's smelly formulas (haha!).
So.... synthetics????
<<EEK!!>> :oops:
But thanks for the thought-provoking question! (I hope I answered it! Hahaha!)
 
Synthetic is the word we use to describe salt-based nutes that are immediately available the plants rather than needing microbes to be the go-between from the organic materials in the soil to the roots.
Ahhh, ok! So it says "organic", meaning it does not kill the microbes?
But it doesn't specifically do anything to feed the microbes??
I guess I would have to say then that my goal is to do it the most natural way possible (which I am guessing means feeding the microbes! Haha!)
From looking at that bottle I'd guess it's salt-based,
Yeah, you are probably right!!
This is 100% salt-based

Me neither!
:reading420magazine:
Hmm.....
This article sez:

"Langbeinite is a unique source of plant nutrition, since three essential nutrients combine naturally into one mineral. It provides a readily available supply of Potassium (K), Magnesium (Mg) and Sulfur (S) to growing plants.

Production

A distinctive geological material, langbeinite exists in only a few locations in the world. Commercial supplies of langbeinite come from underground mines near Carlsbad, N.M., which were first commercially developed in the 1930s. These deposits formed millions of years ago, when a variety of salts, including langbeinite, were left behind after the evaporation of ancient ocean beds. These salt deposits were buried deep beneath hundreds of meters of sediment. The langbeinite deposit is currently mined with large boring machines, washed to remove impurities and then crushed to various particle sizes. Langbeinite is considered a potash (or K-containing) fertilizer, even though it also contains valuable Mg and S. Traces of iron oxide impurities give some langbeinite particles a reddish tint...."
:reading420magazine:
 
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