Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

InTheShed said:
Keep the DE off the flowers though! Inhaling that stuff isn't good for the lungs.
Click to expand...
Oh!! Good to know!!
I guess I will end up doing a bud-wash, then! :rolleyes:
Thanks!
 
Drought is best done about 2 weeks before the expected harvest date to allow for the full stress response and a rescue drink before harvest. Only you can tell when that 2 weeks starts!
el gringuito said:
I guess I will end up doing a bud-wash, then!
Click to expand...
Definitely, at least with water. But if the flowers get DE on them early on it gets embedded into the buds and doesn't easily wash off.
 
InTheShed said:
Drought is best done about 2 weeks before the expected harvest date to allow for the full stress response and a rescue drink before harvest.
Click to expand...
Is there a good thread where I can learn about it quickly (without too big of a learning curve?) (I don't have time to digest a whole thread right now.)
InTheShed said:
Only you can tell when that 2 weeks starts!
Click to expand...
Haha, I would say about now! Because the leaves are starting to turn color, so I assume that the plant is starting to finish up. Except maybe it will be 7-10 days from now, because it will probably take her at least a week (maybe longer) to finish up her cup...
But leaves turning color and no more pistils seems to be a good indicator that she is getting closer to finishing up...
InTheShed said:
Definitely, at least with water. But if the flowers get DE on them early on it gets embedded into the buds and doesn't easily wash off.
Click to expand...
I was thinking because they were bottom watered indoors under LEDs, that a bud-wash would not be necessary (except for the DE). Is that wrong? :rolleyes:
 
el gringuito said:
Is there a good thread where I can learn about it quickly (without too big of a learning curve?) (I don't have time to digest a whole thread right now.)
Click to expand...
There's the first couple of pages of this thread:

Droughting and its medicinal effects in cannabis

Guys and gals, I'd like to start off with a slight introduction to the medicinal benefits of droughting our 420 plants. This will be an open forum discussion for all things droughting related. I'm currently in the process of completing my notes and developing a thesis, if you will, on this...
www.420magazine.com

There's the original research if you're inclined:

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight & Cannabinoid Content In Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress

Because linking to pdf files is currently prohibited, research articles and scientific publications cannot be directly accessed by folks visiting this site. Therefore, I've decided to post the research paper titled above by Caplan et al. as images in this thread. I will be requesting that this...
www.420magazine.com

And there's the basic summary, which is water, measure the angle of the petiole-leaf conection of a specific fan leaf you will remember in relation to the stem. Don't water again until that angle has dropped by 50% of its original (not 50º).

Some plants/pots will go 11 days, some only 2 or 3 depending on a host of variables. The droughting is only effective if the it takes over 5 or so days, because the plant has to mount a stress response after it recognizes the drought. Less than that isn't effective.
el gringuito said:
Haha, I would say about now! Because the leaves are starting to turn color, so I assume that the plant is starting to finish up. Except maybe it will be 7-10 days from now, because it will probably take her at least a week (maybe longer) to finish up her cup...
But leaves turning color and no more pistils seems to be a good indicator that she is getting closer to finishing up...
Click to expand...
A look at the trichomes wil tell you more than anything about leaf or pistil color.
el gringuito said:
I was thinking because they were bottom watered indoors under LEDs, that a bud-wash would not be necessary (except for the DE). Is that wrong?
Click to expand...
Bottom or top watered, the reason to wash relates to what's on the flowers: dust, pet hair, and of course anything sprayed or applied to the flowers should all be washed off.
 
InTheShed said:
There's the first couple of pages of this thread:

Droughting and its medicinal effects in cannabis

Guys and gals, I'd like to start off with a slight introduction to the medicinal benefits of droughting our 420 plants. This will be an open forum discussion for all things droughting related. I'm currently in the process of completing my notes and developing a thesis, if you will, on this...
www.420magazine.com

There's the original research if you're inclined:

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight & Cannabinoid Content In Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress

Because linking to pdf files is currently prohibited, research articles and scientific publications cannot be directly accessed by folks visiting this site. Therefore, I've decided to post the research paper titled above by Caplan et al. as images in this thread. I will be requesting that this...
www.420magazine.com

And there's the basic summary, which is water, measure the angle of the petiole-leaf conection of a specific fan leaf you will remember in relation to the stem. Don't water again until that angle has dropped by 50% of its original (not 50º).

Some plants/pots will go 11 days, some only 2 or 3 depending on a host of variables. The droughting is only effective if the it takes over 5 or so days, because the plant has to mount a stress response after it recognizes the drought. Less than that isn't effective.

A look at the trichomes wil tell you more than anything about leaf or pistil color.

Bottom or top watered, the reason to wash relates to what's on the flowers: dust, pet hair, and of course anything sprayed or applied to the flowers should all be washed off.
Click to expand...
That's perfect!
Thanks, Shed!
:thumb:
 
Hi all.
Does anyone have any feelings about a (new?) competitor product for Real Grower's Recharge named Mikrobs?

Mikrobs - Microbial Superpack for Living Soil. Revitalize Plants (1 lb.)​

It is a little cheaper on the Zone, but otherwise looks comparable.
Does anyone have any experience, or any feelings about it?
(I would post a link, but the mods don't like links that can expire...)
Thanks.
 
el gringuito said:
Hi all.
Does anyone have any feelings about a (new?) competitor product for Real Grower's Recharge named Mikrobs?

Mikrobs - Microbial Superpack for Living Soil. Revitalize Plants (1 lb.)​

It is a little cheaper on the Zone, but otherwise looks comparable.
Does anyone have any experience, or any feelings about it?
(I would post a link, but the mods don't like links that can expire...)
Thanks.
Click to expand...
They look to be just about the same thing, and your version is cheaper. I say go for it!
 
@Emilya Green
If this helps anyone, they have a "Lightning Sale" on DynoMyco on the Zone for the next couple of hours.
(I hope someone saves some money.)
 
Hola a todos!
I have a supersoil question...

I realized I am hoping to get my soil analysis results back soon, so that made me happy :)
Then I just realized that I should anticipate the need just a little, so I can get what I need on order, since I am going to want to remix and recook right away :p

While it will be good to get the full lab analysis back, does it still seem like potassium (K) is the main issue?
I realized I should read up on the Supersoil formula, to learn what provides K, so I can buy more of it now.
I have another set of Subcool's components, but WHY is there not enough K in my existing batch? 🤔
I could understand if it was deficient in all three (NPK) because it was cut 50-50 with rice hulls--but why would there be an imbalance in NPK??? :hmmmm:

So, this is the formula for Subcool's Supersoil. I cut this 50-50 with rice hulls (and threw in more worm castings, because I love those).
  • 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
  • 25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
  • 5 lbs steamed bone meal
  • 5 lbs Bloom bat guano
  • 5 lbs blood meal
  • 3 lbs rock phosphate
  • ¾ cup Epson salts
  • ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
  • ½ cup azomite (trace elements)
  • 2 tbsp powdered humic acid
Sorry to show my ignorance, but which ones of these are for K??
I am also looking in this other article about SubCool's Supersoil ('cuz it's got pictures, haha).
But and I see lots of mentions of P phosporus, but I don't see where it mentions K there, either.
Is it all in the rock dust?? Or where is it?? 🔎

So then I thought I would read this other article by Build-A-Soil.
He gives props to Subcool for the original idea, but he said there are better substitutes.
Only, he also no say which ones are for da K, mon!...
So, sorry 'bout me lack of knowledge, but me no got no clue what to buy to make sure me got more K when I go to remix and recook, mon!
Because me been searching da Internet mon, and all it say is da rock dust, mon!:nomo:

So, anybody be gottin' da answers, mon??
(Hoping! Hoping!! Haha!)
 
el gringuito said:
Hola a todos!
I have a supersoil question...

I realized I am hoping to get my soil analysis results back soon, so that made me happy :)
Then I just realized that I should anticipate the need just a little, so I can get what I need on order, since I am going to want to remix and recook right away :p

While it will be good to get the full lab analysis back, does it still seem like potassium (K) is the main issue?
I realized I should read up on the Supersoil formula, to learn what provides K, so I can buy more of it now.
I have another set of Subcool's components, but WHY is there not enough K in my existing batch? 🤔
I could understand if it was deficient in all three (NPK) because it was cut 50-50 with rice hulls--but why would there be an imbalance in NPK??? :hmmmm:

So, this is the formula for Subcool's Supersoil. I cut this 50-50 with rice hulls (and threw in more worm castings, because I love those).
  • 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
  • 25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
  • 5 lbs steamed bone meal
  • 5 lbs Bloom bat guano
  • 5 lbs blood meal
  • 3 lbs rock phosphate
  • ¾ cup Epson salts
  • ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
  • ½ cup azomite (trace elements)
  • 2 tbsp powdered humic acid
Sorry to show my ignorance, but which ones of these are for K??
I am also looking in this other article about SubCool's Supersoil ('cuz it's got pictures, haha).
But and I see lots of mentions of P phosporus, but I don't see where it mentions K there, either.
Is it all in the rock dust?? Or where is it?? 🔎

So then I thought I would read this other article by Build-A-Soil.
He gives props to Subcool for the original idea, but he said there are better substitutes.
Only, he also no say which ones are for da K, mon!...
So, sorry 'bout me lack of knowledge, but me no got no clue what to buy to make sure me got more K when I go to remix and recook, mon!
Because me been searching da Internet mon, and all it say is da rock dust, mon!:nomo:

So, anybody be gottin' da answers, mon??
(Hoping! Hoping!! Haha!)
Click to expand...
Maybe we can get some help from the super soil and organic crowd

@Emilya Green @StoneOtter @Keffka @Gee64 @Nunyabiz @Stunger @Carcass
 
Gee64 said:
Greensand is my favorite potassium additive in a living organic global soil mix.

Kelp meal is my favorite potassium additive to my worm farm.

Both are excellent if you can work them into your mix.
Click to expand...
Thanks, @Gee64 !
I have not seen either in the shops in country, but I will keep looking.
I think some of the coastal people eat kelp, so I don't know why it is so hard to find. (It is in all the supermarkets in Chile.)

I looked it up. Greensand is basically old dead kelp beds?
I am looking for it. So far I have not found it.
I found Langbeineite on the Zone, but it will take reshipping.

If I can Greensand or Kelp, how much do I add?
And do I add it in any certain balance with anything (like adding calcium and magnesium together in correct balance)?
Thanks!
 
el gringuito said:
Thanks, @Gee64 !
I have not seen either in the shops in country, but I will keep looking.
I think some of the coastal people eat kelp, so I don't know why it is so hard to find.

I looked it up. Greensand is basically old dead kelp beds?

So, how much do I add?
And do I add it in any certain balance with anything (like adding calcium and magnesium together in correct balance)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I like about .5 cups per 10 gals of greensand, kelp, and oyster shell flour. I also add 1 cup dolomite per 10 gals.

I run it all 50/50 with coco thru my worm farm and then into my potting mix.

I also add a lot of other stuff too.

Mostly rock dusts and nitrogens.
 
Gee64 said:
I like about .5 cups per 10 gals of greensand, kelp, and oyster shell flour. I also add 1 cup dolomite per 10 gals.

I run it all 50/50 with coco thru my worm farm and then into my potting mix.

I also add a lot of other stuff too.

Mostly rock dusts and nitrogens.
Click to expand...
@Gee64 , thank you!! :thanks:

And wow, that sounds like good worm compost!

EDIT: the options are expensive!
 
Ok, I have an option of powdered vs. granular greensand.
Do I want a mix of each (to get both quick and slow release)?
Thanks.
 
Oy....
I am striking out on finding greensand or glauconite or Langbeinite here in Colombia.
The cheapest I can find it is to ship it in from the US, and it is really expensive (like $450 to ship a 50 lb bag...).

I hate to ask, but I still don' really know which of the supersoil components are for K...
:helpsmilie:

Sigh.... am I going to be top-watering with a lot of banana-worm-casting tea??
And if so, how do I keep the surface gnats and other buggies down?
 
Is Greensand a better idea than KMS (Potassium Magnesium Sulfate 0-0-21.5 - Sul-Po-Mag - Organic Solution Grade Fertilizer Powder)?
 
I am searching for K substrates.
One website suggested Super K Fulvate as an organic source, but I could not verify that it is organic.

Another few websites suggest Zeolyte as a slow-release form of K.
(Zeolyte is cheap here. I can get 50 lbs for $13 USD).
Will Zeolyte work? (Or not really?)
 
Gee64 said:
I like about .5 cups per 10 gals of greensand, kelp, and oyster shell flour. I also add 1 cup dolomite per 10 gals.

I run it all 50/50 with coco thru my worm farm and then into my potting mix.

I also add a lot of other stuff too.

Mostly rock dusts and nitrogens.
Click to expand...
@Gee64 , Yay! I found kelp locally at half the cost of the US-made brands.
I have not found greensand at affordable numbers, but I will try to double up on the kelp.
Thank you!
:thanks:
 
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