Hemp strains are almost pure cbd, and there must be landraces of them, no?
CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +
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cbdhemp808
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Yeah, it's strange. I experienced that with the Double Black Label CBG. I personally have no interest in autoflowering plants, and even less interest in semi-autoflowering plants!
Again, I think there are no pure landrace CBDs. I'm doing some research on that... will post what I find.
OK, so "industrial hemp"... there are a great many cultivars of industrial hemp. I would say most are very low in cannabinoids. Yes, some will have CBD in low-ish amounts, like 1-4%. A few may have CBD % above that. There is one called Finola that the breeder claims could reach 15% under ideal conditions (it's a hermie strain used to produce seed for food and oil).
To my knowledge, none of the industrial hemp cultivars are what could be recognized as landraces – they have all been bred for agriculture.
There are wild-type hemp plants, and landrace ruderalis (autoflowering). I'm researching to find if there is a landrace cannabis that's low in THC and very high in CBD, i.e. chemotype III. I don't think there is.
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- #443
CBDMed
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Ok, looking forward to it!
It will be great to hear what you find.
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- #444
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
This is RCDVB Auto (CBD and CBG I think).
Is this more bug damage?
Or more need for Mg?
(Or both, oy va voi! )
Is this more bug damage?
Or more need for Mg?
(Or both, oy va voi!
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- #445
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
Oy. This RCBDV does not look well to me.
This is an older leaf. (The white splotch is a drop from when I was using the dish soap.)
To me the veins look kind of yellow, but this is also an older leaf.
I do not like the "warble" in the leaf shape.
Here is another older, lower leaf. It has the same leaf "warbling", and some vein yellowing.
Here is a leaf a little higher up. It also has some warbling in the leaf, but otherwise does not look too bad.
I am not sure. All I know is that she does not look as happy as the other girls.
This is an older leaf. (The white splotch is a drop from when I was using the dish soap.)
To me the veins look kind of yellow, but this is also an older leaf.
I do not like the "warble" in the leaf shape.
Here is another older, lower leaf. It has the same leaf "warbling", and some vein yellowing.
Here is a leaf a little higher up. It also has some warbling in the leaf, but otherwise does not look too bad.
I am not sure. All I know is that she does not look as happy as the other girls.
Doesn't look like bugs to me on the RCDVB Auto, so I would go with calmag for that.
Not exactly sure what the "warble" is but older leaves often will take on a curled down shape as the plant prepares to offload them as it grows new ones up top. If leaves higher up also look like that I would take a look at watering practices.
cbdhemp808
Well-Known Member
This is a tough one. So far, I can only find evidence of supposed "northern" landraces that throw different phenotypes, some being type 1 (high THC), some type 2 (one-to-one), and some type 3 (high CBD). I mean, all from the same landrace strain. However, this is counter to what I understand to be true about pure landraces being highly stable and predisposed to one phenotype. An example is Colombian Gold, which according to Phylos, has the lowest possible genetic variation from pure landrace genetics.
From another viewpoint, it seems like we would all know of a pure landrace strain if it was a high CBD strain. I've never heard of one.
more to come...
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- #448
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
Ok. Thank you.
She is one of the girls who has been drinking, so she has been getting calmag and PK-13/14 down the tube.
I try to give a light top-water for the spreader roots every 2-3 days, with de-chlorinated water.
I was referring to this:
It seems like it is happening in some of the mature leaves. Maybe it is because the leaves are getting older, and they are getting ready to drop?
I will keep monitoring them.
Excess P and K can lock out calcium and excess K can lock out magnesium. Do you see a P or K deficiency in that one that would make you want to boost those? I've never seen either P or K def in veg.
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- #450
CBDMed
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Man, you are wayyyy ahead of me!
The only thing is that this is early flower.
Here is her profile shot:
Kind of tall, thin colas:
This leaf is up higher (not a real old leaf), and does not look good.
I am not sire what to think.
If I understood correctly, @bluter told me that since I have a 1 inch earthworm casting layer up top, that I should use 1/2 the normal calmag down the tube.
I checked the calculations again and I think I might've been messing it up. I've been using 2 teaspoons per gallon (2/3 of a tablespoon per gallon), which is a normal dose (not a half dose).
I will have to check the dose on the PK-13/14. I have also been giving 2 teaspoons per gallon, but I need to check the formula again. I think that is for a full flower, and this is early flower.
I am not sure what to think.
(All the other girls look good, though.)
I don't think you should be adding "bloom boosters" to a plant unless you know your soil is deficient in those nutrients. You can't force-feed a plant anything it doesn't want but you can lock out some nutrients it does.
Is that the Canna PK-13/14? At 2 tsp/gallon you are feeding it 115ppm of P and 241ppm of K on top of whatever is in the soil or other nutes, so you can easily be locking out calcium and magnesium.
Is that the Canna PK-13/14? At 2 tsp/gallon you are feeding it 115ppm of P and 241ppm of K on top of whatever is in the soil or other nutes, so you can easily be locking out calcium and magnesium.
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- #452
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
good advice about the lockouts!
Woof!! I was trying to emulate Emmie, but she left.
she recommended the GF, and the Sweet Candy, and some other stuff (actually).
I got the SC in, but it is dry, and I have limited space at the top of my SIPs, so I thought I would use BioNova PK-13/14 Instead (Since I already have it).
Bionova PK 13-14 | Premium Fertilizers
Bionova PK 13-14 | This is one of Bio Nova finest stimulator to grow your plants | Bio Nova Premium Fertilizers, My way to grow
bionovanutrients.com
Only, I think I am adding too much PK. Can someone please check my math?
I think this feeding chart says that at the height of flowering (near the very end) I am supposed to use up to 6 mL (1.2 teaspoons) per 10 L of water (2.5 gallons).
Right now (early to mid flower) I think it's probably closer to three or 4 mL per 10 L of water that I am supposed to use--so if I understand correctly I should be using somewhere around 3/4 of a teaspoon or 0.8 teaspoon of PK at this stage?
So, right now I need to back the PK off to about 3/4 of a teaspoon per gallon for the healthy girls.
Only, maybe for the RCDVB I can skip the PK on the next feeding (in case it is getting too much PK), and then I can resume the PK as normal the following feed?
Or what would you recommend?
It would be great of someone wanted to please check my math on the PK (I cannot do math right since my head injury.)
You can't emulate someone else's grow unless you are using the exact same inputs, and I'm sure Emilya isn't using the combination of ingredients that you are.
Also, Sweet Candy is supposed to be dissolved in water, not top dressed. Either way I don't recommend it unless you have deficiencies in K. There's no P in Sweet Candy.
Also also, I would certainly stop using the Canna nutes PK boost for the next week or two as there is probably loads of that build up in the soil. Whether you go back to using it is up to you, but like I said, plants only need what they're showing a deficiency in. You can't get bigger flowers by adding boosters to a plant that is 100% healthy. That's not how nature works.
Also, Sweet Candy is supposed to be dissolved in water, not top dressed. Either way I don't recommend it unless you have deficiencies in K. There's no P in Sweet Candy.
Also also, I would certainly stop using the Canna nutes PK boost for the next week or two as there is probably loads of that build up in the soil. Whether you go back to using it is up to you, but like I said, plants only need what they're showing a deficiency in. You can't get bigger flowers by adding boosters to a plant that is 100% healthy. That's not how nature works.
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- #454
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
Right.
Sounds like good advice.
It also sounds like I will need to study up on what P and K deficiencies look like.
Sounds like good advice.
Thanks, Shed.
It sounds like I had the wrong idea.
It sounds like I will need to learn all of the nutrient deficiency and excess signs.
Given the amounts of grow stuff you have on hand, from soils to amendments to top-dressing to soluble nutes, it's best to try very specific repeatable processes and note which plants are doing best on which. You can drive yourself crazy trying to take every bit of nute advice from every grower and apply it to what you're doing. What works in their medium in their environment won't necessarily perform the same in yours.
Even though I'm using the exact same nutes this winter in a tent that I use outside, I've got a plant that looks like this:
The same methods can produce different results in different places!
Either way, remember that you can't force feed a plant.
Even though I'm using the exact same nutes this winter in a tent that I use outside, I've got a plant that looks like this:
The same methods can produce different results in different places!
Either way, remember that you can't force feed a plant.
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- #456
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
That makes a lot of sense.
But... specific repeatable processes... are you saying I am not being scientific ENOUGH??
I think I see your point.
I was trying to emulate Emmie, but she is now gone.
Emmie used to say that she feeds "early, heavy, and often", so I figured I would try to do the same.
Only, NOW it turns out that it is NOT that way!!
It is NOT that you want to make sure that your plants have plenty of everything (as if you stick their little roots straight into the pantry).
But rather, you want to make sure that they have JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNTS of everything, all the time. (That is a different picture.)
EDITED: So, instead of just throwing a seed into the Hydrofarm warehouse, watering with a firehose, and standing back
, it seems more like you want to pack your girls school lunches at just the right times, so that they can eat when they are hungry, but there are no (or not too many) leftovers.You want her to be active in the gym, but you do not want her to eat so too much (to where she feels bloated or sick)-- so you have to guess how much she is going to want to eat (and what balance).
I guess part of my problem is that I did not want the poor girls to go hungry, and I wanted them to have plenty of energy, so maybe I am giving them too many vitamin pills?
And maybe their bodies only want one vitamin pill, so too many vitamins is causing an excess?
It seems like a totally different way to look at it, not to give the girls too many vitamins!!
Even though I'm using the exact same nutes this winter in a tent that I use outside, I've got a plant that looks like this:
The same methods can produce different results in different places!
Whoa.
Ok. I will try to remember that. Thanks.Either way, remember that you can't force feed a plant.
I cannot fix this grow, but from here on out, probably what I need to do is to standardize on Subcool's Original (just because I have easy access to the 'nutes, and it is also the cheapest LOS).
Then I can run a control group, and experiment with whether or not it helps to add Terp Tea (or no)
That would be a good experiment, to see IF subcool's plants do better with a little TT Bloom, or if Subcool's is enough, and the extra TT only causes problems.
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- #457
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
I was doing bug patrol, and I smacked one of those little green 1/4" grasshopper dudes.
(Bugs are fine outside the house. When you come inside the house, that is a different story.)
I have one SDAC whose new growth does not look as healthy as the other SDAC.
This is a healthy SDAC sister..
And this is the poor girl whose new growth does not look quite as good.
I do not know if you can tell from the photo, but the new growth is just not the same.
please let me know if you want a close-up.
Is this the same story as with the others? We do not know what is causing the problem, so quit the finishing PK, and just try to give normal feedings and a normal calmag as much as possible, given the circumstances?
(Bugs are fine outside the house. When you come inside the house, that is a different story.)
I have one SDAC whose new growth does not look as healthy as the other SDAC.
This is a healthy SDAC sister..
And this is the poor girl whose new growth does not look quite as good.
I do not know if you can tell from the photo, but the new growth is just not the same.
please let me know if you want a close-up.
Is this the same story as with the others? We do not know what is causing the problem, so quit the finishing PK, and just try to give normal feedings and a normal calmag as much as possible, given the circumstances?
It's healthier than any of my three autos! Is that a SIP? It looks a little over watered but other than that I don't see anything to fix.
Either way my recommendation is to lose the PK booster since there's no sign of a deficiency of either.
Either way my recommendation is to lose the PK booster since there's no sign of a deficiency of either.
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- #459
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
Yes. It is the standard Gro-Tech one that fits into a 5 gallon bucket. They only had clear plastic buckets here, so I had to give the girls skirts (to hide their privates).
Hm.
SIps are supposed to auto-regulate water well. Maybe not in this case??
I try to water the spreader roots every 2-3 days, but not that much liquid.
Yes, thanks
I need to learn my deficiencies and indications.
cbdhemp808
Well-Known Member
I have been schooled by a landrace expert. I was under the false impression that landraces were wild type strains. This is not true – landraces are strains that have been farmed and bred by people in specific geographic regions over centuries and in some cases a millennia or more, and this included crossbreeding. (Wild type strains also exist, but I won't discuss that here.) I was also under the false impression that all landraces have such a high degree of genetic stability that they only produce one phenotype. Also not true. Landraces are roughly broken out into southern landraces and northern landraces. The southern ones – i.e. from places like Southeast Asia, Mexico, Central America, South America, and parts of Africa – were more selected and bred for high-potency (THC), and are sativas; whereas the northern ones were bred for multi-use and are indicas. The northern ones being from places like Afghanistan, Nepal, and Northern India.
A single northern landrace can produce three chemotypes: type 1 (high THC), type 2 (one-to-one), and type 3 (high CBD). So, the northern landraces are the ones with CBD potential. Probably the one with the highest potential CBD is Lebanese.
So, to revisit this post I made...
I think the terminology, "true landrace," is somewhat misleading, especially in terms of genetic stability. What exists are landraces, and then hybrids based on landraces. Some landraces have become "polluted," because people bring outside hybrids into regions that are known for particular landraces, and then cross pollination occurs (either intentional or unintentional). There is inherent genetic purity in landraces, but that doesn't necessarily mean there won't be diversity in the offspring, i.e. phenotypes. I think we can generally say there's less diversity in a southern landrace, such as Colombian Gold, than in a northern one such as Lebanese.
They used two Lebanese phenos that were high in CBD, likely both chemotype 3. So, it makes sense that the experienced breeders at Humboldt Seed Company focused on Lebanese to produce Willy G's.
If you plant seeds of the true landrace known as Lebanese, you will apparently get different phenos, and those will actually be different chemotypes. We could break that down further... you may get different phenos of a type 1, a type 2, or a type 3 chemotype. This may seem like chaos compared to the stable seed lines we are familiar with, such as a ChemDawg or a Jack Herer, but these landraces are actually quite stable – in a different way – and *very* valuable to breeders.
It turns out apparently that ACE's Lebanese isn't a pure landrace Lebanese. They have done some breeding to produce a hybrid version of Lebanese that retains a high degree of landrace genetics.
This particular profile on Phylos is a good example of a pure landrace. I'm guessing it would have very little in the way of phenotypic differences in the offspring, since that landrace was specifically bred for high THC potency, over a long period of time in a specific geographic region.
Through this research, I've found seed available of a southern sativa landrace (not northern!) that has CBD potential, or at least very low THC. I.e. it's considered to be a hemp strain. I actually haven't heard much about hemp strains that aren't from northern areas. This is a tropical hemp. This landrace strain is a good candidate for breeding with the type 3 CBDs that I've been growing, potentially opening up the possibility of a highly fungus-resistant CBD pheno.
I think there are both northern and southern landraces that are considered to be hemp; however, I think most are northern landraces. Apparently the tall hybrids that were developed for "industrial hemp" – i.e. for fiber, seed, and oil – were derived from both southern and northern landrace genetics. I will be doing more research on this, especially as relates to CBD and breeding.
