CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

Could be genetic. Do all the leaves have veins like that?
Hmmm... šŸ§ Good question. It looks like some leaves on that plant. (That one is the smallest of the five.)
Putting the girl on the merry-go-round:

image0.jpeg


Some.

IMG_2434.jpeg


A little more.

IMG_2435.jpeg


Looks ok mostly, but a shade of light veins.

IMG_2436.jpeg


Looks ok.

IMG_2437.jpeg


I do not see anything on any of the other plants. šŸŖ“
 
Yellowing between the veins is usually the start of a magnesium deficiency, so if you're seeing that then now would be the time to get moving toward correcting it.

Gracias, Shed. And how would I do that? By calmag? (Spiking the res?)

Also, what took a large bite out of that lower leaf? Here's a list of pests that do that kind of damage and their pics:

Thanks for the URL.
I saw like a little mini grasshopper (like 1/4" long) for the first time today.
I am hoping the dish soap and the neem will deter him.

For an active bug population, every 3 days for two weeks. For preventative (no bugs seen) I go once a week.

I am very glad you and blutes and Bill284 gave me the heads up!
I guess in the future I will neem them weekly until they flower, and then switch to Dr. Bronner's.
:thanks:
 
And how would I do that? By calmag? (Spiking the res?)
If you have cal-mag I would add it to your water per the label and put it down the tube into the res.
I saw like a little mini grasshopper (like 1/4" long) for the first time today.
I am hoping the dish soap and the neem will deter him.
Neem might help, and some folks mix up a garlic spray or use cayenne pepper spray. Catch and release works if you can manage it, and there is anti-grasshopper bacteria you can get that will kill them called Nosema locustae if you can find it.
I am very glad you and blutes and Bill284 gave me the heads up!
I guess in the future I will neem them weekly until they flower, and then switch to Dr. Bronner's.
Sounds like a plan!
 
If you have cal-mag I would add it to your water per the label and put it down the tube into the res.
Ok, to verify, that is the case even though it has a 1" EWC layer, which I interpret to mean that it might be getting calcium, and not magnesium?
I also have liquid magnesium salts, but I think the consensus is to use calmag instead.
I can add calmag according to the instructions, but if she is a runt and a slow drinker, and most of her food and water and 'nutes came in through the EWC, it will take a while for her to be able to drink it.
Neem might help, and some folks mix up a garlic spray or use cayenne pepper spray.
They sell that here but it burned my plant when I used it before.

Catch and release works if you can manage it, and there is anti-grasshopper bacteria you can get that will kill them called Nosema locustae if you can find it.

I went in there for two minutes to see if I could find that little 1/4" grasshopper guy, and I moved all the leaves with my hands, and there was like 1/10th the amount of moths as before, so I will take that as a good sign.
I will try to spray again in two more days, according to your schedule. Hopefully the Dr. Bronners will be here by then.

Sounds like a plan!
Thanks Shed!
 
Ok, to verify, that is the case even though it has a 1" EWC layer, which I interpret to mean that it might be getting calcium, and not magnesium?
We're running into one of the problems mixing a bit of this and a bit of that! You can try adding 1 gram of epsom salt dissolved in a gallon of water for a small Mg boost (2 grams for a bigger boost!), from the top or in the res.
I also have liquid magnesium salts, but I think the consensus is to use calmag instead.
Not sure what those are but most folks recommend calmag for either Ca or Mg deficiencies. I have no idea how much magnesium is in the EWC on top or how long it takes any nutrients in there to work into the soil/roots/plant.
I can add calmag according to the instructions, but if she is a runt and a slow drinker, and most of her food and water and 'nutes came in through the EWC, it will take a while for her to be able to drink it.
Have you been only top-watering this in order to get the nutrients from the top into the soil? Is the res not active in watering the plant yet?
They sell that here but it burned my plant when I used it before.
Well don't use that, that's for sure! If there's only one small grasshopper in there you might not have to deal with it unless you see more and more noshed leaves.
 
We're running into one of the problems mixing a bit of this and a bit of that!

Ok, sorry gro. I appreciate your help so much! Only, Mr. Autism is confused.
Should I try to correct the deficiency in the one plant? Or not try to correct the deficiency in the one plant?

It feels like if I ignore the deficiency in the one plant, then everyone and everything is cool, but the plant has a deficiency. :confused:
However, if I try to correct the deficiency, then I am guilty of a science experiment, and mixing a little bit of this, and a little bit of that. :confused:
So, I love you dude, and thank you so very much for all of the help! Only, sometimes it feels like I cannot win. It feels like if my beans do not all pop and grow uniformly such that I cannot feed them all the same, then I have done something wrong (and I do not know how to deal with that).

Do I apply exactly the same feeding regiment to all the girls, even if there are some minor differences???
Or do I treat each plant as unique (like we ideally treat each person), and modify for any special dietary needs accordingly?
Sorry, I love you gro, but I am not sure what I am supposed to do.

You can try adding 1 gram of epsom salt dissolved in a gallon of water for a small Mg boost (2 grams for a bigger boost!), from the top or in the res.

If I was hypothetically to try that, probably I should start with the 1 gram, to be conservative?

Not sure what those are

These and the Epsom salts are my known Mg resources.
I cannot remember why we got the Magnesium liquid, but we have it, IF it is helpful.

Mg.jpg


but most folks recommend calmag for either Ca or Mg deficiencies. I have no idea how much magnesium is in the EWC on top or how long it takes any nutrients in there to work into the soil/roots/plant.

I do not know either, but I found an enriched source for EWC, and I bought a big bag.
Now I hope it does throw off the other balances!

Humustec.jpg


Have you been only top-watering this in order to get the nutrients from the top into the soil?

Mostly.
I start everyone with a full bucket of plain water, and so far she does not yet really drink a lot.
I fed her mostly (almost exclusively) so far with the over-the-top feedings, and she was one of two (both CBD Crack) that were small, and there was overflow from the res.
She is small, so she just drank a liter, so I just gave her like 1 liter of water with calmag and pk-13/14 down the tube, but that is maybe the second liter of anything, so hardly any calmag or pk-13/14 has gone into her bucket.

In contrast, I have several girls draining their cups in 3 days, and one that just broke 3 and is heading towards 2.
At the peak in my last grow, the biggest XXL girls and the Delicous Candy would drain their cups in 2 days.
These girls are a little smaller, but it is better soil, and the plants look far healthier, so I imagine that some of these girls will drain their cups in 2 days (and I will be careful that they do not go into drought).

So yes, the vast majority of what has gone into her bucket has NOT had calmag or pk.

Is the res not active in watering the plant yet?

This and two other plants (one other CBD Crack, and one SDAC) do not really drink yet.
Everyone else drinks (and some of them, a lot).

Well don't use that, that's for sure! If there's only one small grasshopper in there you might not have to deal with it unless you see more and more noshed leaves.

I will try to monitor for insects much better when I go in to give the spreader roots a drink every other day.
And I will try to follow your spray routine.
:thanks::thanks::thanks:
 
Preface: I think your plants are looking really nice overall, so you may just be tinkering around the edges here.
Should I try to correct the deficiency in the one plant? Or not try to correct the deficiency in the one plant?
If you're seeing yellowing between the veins then you should be correcting it for sure. What I meant was it's hard to know what the EWC will help with compared to calmag or epsom salts.

If your calmag has a 2:1 Ca:Mg ratio you can start with that, but if there's more Ca than that I'd go epsom salts.
If I was hypothetically to try that, probably I should start with the 1 gram, to be conservative?
Sure! If you see more leaves with yellowing you can always bump it.
I cannot remember why we got the Magnesium liquid, but we have it, IF it is helpful.
There's also nitrogen in there so I would go with the epsom salts.
I do not know either, but I found an enriched source for EWC, and I bought a big bag.
Now I hope it does throw off the other balances!
Well I can tell you that however enriched it is it have very little Mg.
This and two other plants (one other CBD Crack, and one SDAC) do not really drink yet.
Everyone else drinks (and some of them, a lot).
Are the ones not sucking up the res the ones getting top-dressed/watered? The roots may not need the res water if the numbers break that way.
I will try to monitor for insects much better when I go in to give the spreader roots a drink every other day.
And I will try to follow your spray routine.
:thumb:
 
Preface: I think your plants are looking really nice overall, so you may just be tinkering around the edges here.
Hahaha! Preface: I appreciate your and everyone's help mucho!
If you're seeing yellowing between the veins then you should be correcting it for sure.
Ok! :thumb:
What I meant was it's hard to know what the EWC will help with compared to calmag or epsom salts.
True.
If your calmag has a 2:1 Ca:Mg ratio you can start with that, but if there's more Ca than that I'd go epsom salts.
>> "NPK / 0 ā€“ 0 ā€“ 0 + Calcium 4.0% + Magnesium 1.0% + Sulfur 4.0%"
(It looks like 1g of Epsom salts in tomorrow's feeding.)

Sure! If you see more leaves with yellowing you can always bump it.
:thumb:
There's also nitrogen in there so I would go with the epsom salts.
:thumb:
Well I can tell you that however enriched it is it have very little Mg.
:(
Are the ones not sucking up the res the ones getting top-dressed/watered?
Good question. Thank you, Shed.
The original idea was to give them tea in proportionate to their size, and how much they drink. The big drinkers got more just because they are bigger, and more vigorous, and therefore they need more food.
However, if I recall correctly, I tried to give each SIP at least 2 liters (1/2 gallon) (and the big ones got more).
However, this CBDC and one other CBDC had not drunk 2 liters (1/2 gallon) since the last feeding, so they spilled over.
:rolleyes:
(But at least it stayed contained. šŸ‘ )
The roots may not need the res water if the numbers break that way.

:thumb:
EDIT: I did give them something down the fill tube before, but the vast majority has been over the EWC.
I am thinking I will have to watch the two CBDC res levels more closely when I fill their SIPs.
šŸ§
 
I mix mine at 4 tablespoons/gallon per this:

"1 Tbsp. (15mL) Dr. Bronnerā€™s Castile Soap / 1 quart (1 L) water"
:thumb:
 
Hey Shed,
Hahahaha, šŸ˜‚ I hate to bring this up again, but I was looking at next week's feeding, GF Bloom for all the girls, trying to figure out why GF is OMRI and Terp Tea is not.

OMRI salts.jpg


GeoFlora's salts are mentioned in 11th, 14th, and 15th place out of 15 ingredients.
Dude's Terp Tea salts are mentioned in 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th place out of 12 ingredients.

ROOTS ORGANICS TERP TEA BLOOM
NPK / 3 - 7 - 4 DERIVED FROM
Bat Guano, Fishbone Meal, Crab Meal, Kelp Meal, Non Gmo Soybean Meal, Seabird Guano, Feather Meal, Langbeinite, Kieserite, Phosphate Rock, Sulfate of Potash, Dolomite.

So did you say that GF's salts are OMRI because there are maybe less of them than in Dude's Terp Tea??
Or how does that work??
:reading420magazine:
 
Since I'm not an organic grower I don't know how they figure what's allowed and what isn't!

Here's what Google says:

"Rock phosphate, or phosphorite, is mined from clay deposits that contain phosphorus"

Potassium phosphate "is an inorganic phosphate salt and an inorganic potassium salt."

Magnesium phosphate fertilizer is "fused magnesium potassium phosphate is formed by heat treatment of rock phosphate with addition of a mixture of magnesium and potassium silicate compounds."

I wouldn't worry about the ingredients at this point and just bring home a healthy harvest! :thumb:
 
I mix mine at 4 tablespoons/gallon per this:

"1 Tbsp. (15mL) Dr. Bronnerā€™s Castile Soap / 1 quart (1 L) water"
Thanks for that link.

I use a mix that is half that concentration. I started out weaker and added more soap to where I was happy with the amount of bubbles but not too much. Seems effective at the dilution rate I use without being too "soapy" on the leaves.
 
Thanks for that link.

I use a mix that is half that concentration. I started out weaker and added more soap to where I was happy with the amount of bubbles but not too much. Seems effective at the dilution rate I use without being too "soapy" on the leaves.
Thanks for saying.

Separate question:
Not right now (but another time), if I was to make a tea of, say, kitchen compost, would I want to add some recharge and molasses both right before starting the tea?
Or would I want to add the molasses with the kitchen compost when starting the tea, and then add the recharge at the last moment?
(I think the former but I am not sure.)

Oh, P.S., how long should it take to see the results magnesium salts? (I think the tips turn brown after the first shot of soap and neem.)

IMG_2438.jpeg
 
Well, this is the warm tome of year, and the girls (boys?) on the roof are not doing too well.
I planted these Top Tao Blueberry Crystal Autos (bought from a sponsor) on 12/8.
They are aupposed to take 4 months, and get 1.5 - 2 m tall, but they are still small.
Apart from some neem oil burn on the early leaves, they look healthy enough. Probably they are just not getting warm enough (and this is the warmest time of year).
I cannot use a greenhouse because of the humidity. So it looks like my plans of growing outside are not really viable at this time ā˜¹ļø

image0.jpeg


So, I guess if we ever get money to build again, I can build a tall indoor grow room inside, so I can grow photos and let them get tall.
Too bad!! I was really looking forward to growing outside.
 
How not warm is it?
šŸ˜‚
It is so not warm that I am wearing long sleeves, a fleece vest, and I am considering another layer.
Today has a projected high of 67F.
It is supposed to warm up for a couple of days, and then go back to normal (a heat wave, hahaha!)

not warm.jpg


Leaves don't always recover their color from a deficiency but you should stop seeing the yellow on any new leaves after a few days from a top feeding. I don't how long it would take to work it's way up from the res though.
:thanks:
 
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