Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I've paid $2.69 a doz for years now, but they're eggs that actually have color to the yolk and flavor that makes them worth the price. Can't find that quality protein for the price anywhere else. Eggs are my favorite protein source.

.....which was my reason for having the chickens in the first place. Home fed, unbleached or treated and beautiful rich yolks.
I still have my fresh eggs, my folks live a short distance away and they have lots of chickens and plentiful supplies of fresh eggs. I cannot remember the last time I had to buy them in a store.

Update of sorts on the indoor girls. The little sprout is really seriously growing slowly. Don't know what the issue is with her, it's a Buddha seedling. I decided to take her out of the room and put her in the kitchen window where she will get actual sunlight to see if that gets her going.
If she doesn't get moving, I'm going to light a fire under her roots with a swift kick! :laughtwo:
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I have a Kalashnikova that simply refuses to begin growing past the first set of leaves. Last Sunday I told myself I'd give it another week. If I go home this morning and it's no bigger than the stalled growth I saw yesterday I'm going to probably pull her. With Dale in the process of dying I found I couldn't do it yet, but it's like an insult to the rest of the plants.

I know it's poorly managed new soil that's to blame, but I still felt compelled to let it grow regardless. Now it's pissing me off. :straightface:

Hmmm. Hadn't thought to take her out of the tent and stick her on the balcony. She's an auto, so the lighting change shouldn't bother her. I think I'll do that when I get back home today. Thank you for that Canna. :Love:
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Batten down the hatches Shawnee, this storm heading to us is not looking friendly! I sure hope the outdoor girls don't get any damage. Wind is supposed to be a big issue. Hopefully the fence around the Haven will be a good wind breaker. I will know when I get out of work this afternoon, storm should hit about the time I get there.

{{sigh}}
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Crossing fingers and toes. Be safe girls.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I have a Kalashnikova that simply refuses to begin growing past the first set of leaves. Last Sunday I told myself I'd give it another week. If I go home this morning and it's no bigger than the stalled growth I saw yesterday I'm going to probably pull her. With Dale in the process of dying I found I couldn't do it yet, but it's like an insult to the rest of the plants.

I know it's poorly managed new soil that's to blame, but I still felt compelled to let it grow regardless. Now it's pissing me off. :straightface:

Hmmm. Hadn't thought to take her out of the tent and stick her on the balcony. She's an auto, so the lighting change shouldn't bother her. I think I'll do that when I get back home today. Thank you for that Canna. :Love:

I haven't gotten that familiar with Cannafan's Buddha, but I suggest for your Kalishnikova you might try what finally worked for me after MONTHS of slow growing , - lower the PH of your water and see if it gets better.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I haven't gotten that familiar with Cannafan's Buddha, but I suggest for your Kalishnikova you might try what finally worked for me after MONTHS of slow growing , - lower the PH of your water and see if it gets better.

:rofl: I hear you and fully understand where you're coming from Rad, but PH is so foreign to me that I'd be like a babe lost in the woods. My problem with that particular slice of LOS is a failure to inoculate it properly or, as an alternative, let it mature properly. I can correct that today or I can just toss her out onto the balcony in the full sun and see what happens. I'm thinking the latter experiment is my choice, with everything else going on. Maybe put her into the sun and inoculate. She's running almost a month behind in development now, so she's entering experimental status.

My next tray, planted this week, will have 10 more HB kit plants and another seed will be dropped into the LOS no-till. That's a lot of babies, with another tray of ten to follow next month. I can afford to play mad scientist with this one. I have three more of these seeds in reserve.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Hmmm. Hadn't thought to take her out of the tent and stick her on the balcony. She's an auto, so the lighting change shouldn't bother her. I think I'll do that when I get back home today. Thank you for that Canna. :Love:

I think the light cycle is what doesnt affect them. Different kinds of light, like sunlight versus LED, might give the jumpstart, rather than the length of time she under the light source.

Thats how I think of it anyway.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

It might burn up guys. I know if you take new seedling into sunlight it dies in about 15 mins. So will most plants. I think
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

My throwing her into the kitchen window actually had immediate effects. I put her there this morning about 7:00 a.m. and just got home. She is now leaning toward the window and her leaves are taking on a brighter green color.
I'll try to get a pic in a bit, see if I can show the leaves partially brighter green.

:circle-of-love:
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

love it when plant is like that., looks beautiful
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Okay, here she is. I really think she grew a half inch or so too.
Notice the end half of the leaves are very dark, that's not the lighting. They were that dark entirely when I put her in the window this morning.

Buddha_Lil_one.jpg
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

she's pretty little girl. from that tall on i like . especially when the leaves start making.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

The Wildlings survived the "storm" today. We didn't get much rain out of it, and we needed it. The storm front kind of broke in half when it got here, and we were in the calm half.
What we got was wind. There is a lot of debris from the trees in the haven. Won't take much to clean up. I see no signs of digging anywhere near the girls cages either.
Woot Woot!
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I haven't gotten that familiar with Cannafan's Buddha, but I suggest for your Kalishnikova you might try what finally worked for me after MONTHS of slow growing , - lower the PH of your water and see if it gets better.

I will certainly keep this in mind if Lil' Buddha keeps up with the slow growing. Just a picky plant? LOL I have some PH down, so I will be prepared.
If all else fails, I'll throw her in the Wildlings' Haven just for chits-n-kicks...
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

The Wildlings survived the "storm" today. We didn't get much rain out of it, and we needed it. The storm front kind of broke in half when it got here, and we were in the calm half.
What we got was wind. There is a lot of debris from the trees in the haven. Won't take much to clean up. I see no signs of digging anywhere near the girls cages either.
Woot Woot!

Of course they made it silly. I put a good juju on them.
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Thanks, Cajun...same with me, Canna....much ado about nothing....altho the damage from last week I still have not addressed due to my harvest this week....all plants are chopped...I have a 5 day window to bleach the rooms, cut the lawn, haul away the damage outside, and begin again....
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Of course they made it silly. I put a good juju on them.

I heard them saying "Thank you Uncle Cajun!"....and thank you for the good karma from everyone else too. :)
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

Thanks, Cajun...same with me, Canna....much ado about nothing....altho the damage from last week I still have not addressed due to my harvest this week....all plants are chopped...I have a 5 day window to bleach the rooms, cut the lawn, haul away the damage outside, and begin again....

Congrats on the chop chop!
You are going to be a busy girl this week for sure. Don't work too hard, and take a nice :smokin2: when you can.
Ahhh...new beginnings....

:circle-of-love:
 
re: Cannafan's Perpetual Grow - Where Everything Changes - Autos - Photos - Seeds & More!

I was researching plant stretch online this morning and ran into this article, which I thought was very interesting. It not only talks about lighting, but temperatures and feeding factors as well. Apparently many things can affect the node spacing, and stretch. Thought you all might be interested in this too.

Preventing plant stretch

A common problem for growers during the spring season is overgrown plants. Some growers lower greenhouse night temperatures to save on energy costs, while daytime temperatures are warm due to sunny days. Cool night temperatures along with warm sunny days often result in plant stretch. The greater the difference between day and night greenhouse temperatures, the more stretch occurs.

Bedding plants may become too tall if they are started too soon, are spaced too closely, are shaded by overhead hanging baskets, or are grown in low light greenhouses caused by old plastic. Fast growing herbs such as basil, chives and dill and vegetable plants easily become overgrown, especially if started too early. Depending on the extent of these adverse factors, growers can sometimes use cultural practices and chemical growth regulators to salvage plants by reducing stretch.


Temperature growth control
The DIF technique of temperature control was developed at Michigan State University during the 1980s. Research showed that the difference (DIF) between day temperature and night temperature could be used to control stem stretch in many plant species. Stem elongation is promoted by warmer days than nights (positive DIF) and inhibited by warmer nights than days (negative DIF). Plants grow taller when DIF becomes more positive and plants remain short as DIF becomes smaller or more negative.

A different, but easier approach to using DIF with similar results is to reduce the greenhouse temperature 5°F-10°F lower than the night temperature for two to three hours at dawn. Called a “cool morning pulse”, this technique reduces plant height as much as a negative DIF.

DIF has its greatest effect on height during the period of most rapid stem elongation. DIF does not have to be applied continuously throughout a crop cycle to be effective, but rather only during the period of most active vegetative growth.


Average daily temperature
Temperature also affects the rate of plant development to flowering or marketing time. Growth rate is a function of the average daily temperature. When using DIF, the average daily temperature should also be calculated and used with DIF. As the average daily temperature increases the rate of plant development increases. As the average daily temperature decreases the rate of plant growth decreases.

Average daily temperature can be calculated by adding the night temperature times the length of the night period (in hours) to the day temperature times the length of the day period (in hours), and then divide this total by 24 (the number of hours in a day).

A DIF treatment that raises the average daily temperature speeds up crop development. A treatment that lowers the average daily temperature slows crop development.


Maximize light levels
One of the easiest ways to reduce stretch is to maximize the amount of light plants receive. Providing adequate spacing, reducing the number of overhead baskets/containers and installing new or cleaning the existing glazing can help to prevent overgrown plants. Dirty glazing can reduce light levels by 20 percent.


Nutrition, water control
Reducing the application of fertilizer or water can also prevent stretch. Some growers try to hold back plants using lower temperatures in combination with nutrient and/or water stress.

Low fertility or mild water stress can prevent stretch if carefully controlled. However, there are risks including the development of nutrient deficiency symptoms which can be difficult to correct or plant damage due to water stress. The nutrients which have the most effect on plant size are nitrogen and phosphorus. Limiting nutrition and water will not likely help plants that are already overgrown.


Plant growth regulators
Plant growth regulators are another common method that growers use as a control treatment. There are no growth regulators labelled for use on herbs. The growth regulator Sumagic (uniconazole) is now labelled for use as a foliar spray on several vegetable transplants grown in greenhouses.

Growth regulators are treated as pesticides and have re-entry intervals. These products should be used wisely and not as substitutes for good cultural practices.

Growth regulators can be used to hold plants in check once they reach their final size. This is helpful when weather conditions dictate that plants be held longer than anticipated. In these situations, a spray or drench application of one of the root-active compounds, including A-Rest, Bonzi, Sumagic or Topflor, can be used. Spray applications are preferred since high concentrations are required to hold the plants at this later development stage. Sprays work faster but have a shorter residual effect. Therefore, high concentration sprays are less likely to reduce garden performance than high concentration drenches.

Growers should take precautions to prevent an overdose, which can have an extended residual effect resulting in poor garden performance. To ensure adequate control, growers should consider selecting a rate in the upper half of the normal recommended range for a particular crop or even 50 percent higher than the recommended rate for slowing growth during the grow-out stage. For example, the normal spray rate for A-Rest on ageratum plants in flats during grow-out is 10-15 parts per million, but a rate of 15-26 ppm is recommended to hold this crop.

The same principle would apply for other growth regulators. Cycocel is not recommended for this purpose since the spray rates required would be so high that phytotoxicity would likely occur. Plants can also be treated before being transplanted into larger containers or combination planters to hold them.

Growers without growth regulator application experience to hold plants can start with the high end of the normal recommended rate. A second treatment can be applied if the first one is not enough.

A proper hold rate should provide enough control to hold a mature plant under hot weather for two to three weeks, but low enough that plants recover and perform for consumers. Spray treatments carry less risk of overdose than drench treatments, especially when root-active growth regulators are used.

When using a growth regulator for the first time, treat a small group of plants and keep accurate records of the response and environmental conditions in the house.


Cutting back
When the other control methods are not effective, plants can be cut back. Cutting back is the process of removing one-half or more of a plant to reduce its size. Some species respond well to being cut back by producing abundant new growth, but others do not.

Be aware that pinching some overgrown plants can result in poor branching from hard woody stems below. If the response to cutting back a particular species is unknown, test it on a few plants to determine their ability to recover. Cutting back should be reserved as a last measure.


Pinching
Pinching can be used if plants are slightly overgrown or need some shaping. Removing the terminal growing point and one or two uppermost leaves is a soft pinch. A soft pinch allows the dormant buds below the pinch to grow.

A soft pinch can be done by using your thumb and forefinger or by cutting off the growth mechanically with a knife, scissors or clippers. Many growers make one or more soft pinches to hanging basket plants to control their overall size and shape, to increase flower number and to create full, thick growth.

When plants are overgrown, beyond using a soft pinch, growers may remove the terminal growing point and two to four leaves. This is considered a hard pinch and delays flowering more than a soft pinch. A hard pinch may also result in undesirable branching from the plant if not enough nodes are left on the stems.

Plants can be pruned and shaped at any time to reduce stretch and to improve aesthetics. This treatment will delay flowering or re-flowering by two or more weeks. Pinching is labor intensive.

Some growers will make subsequent pinches at three- to six-week intervals, depending on the plant species and growing conditions. Additional pinches result in fuller growth and add to the quality, but also add significantly to total production time.

Tina Smith is extension floriculture specialist, University of Massachusetts

By: T. SMITH | April 23, 2010
Greenhouse Management online
 
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