Canadian Growers Group & Friends

Herby Paisley said:
Hey scott with your next grow try to stay away from miracle grow soil it has time release nutes in most of their soil products which may cause the soil to be too hot for the seedling to survive in at the beginning... Also how much are you watering them?
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Thanks, Herby. This one has no nute pellets. Last years grow, I had the m grow but picked them out.
This was meant for seed starting and was formulated for fast root starting.
I watered them slightly every other day, the soil stayed moist but never soggy.
I noticed that the tap root was long on the dead one. Maybe, as @Azimuth mentionned, not enough perlite but the perlite is layered like @Bill284 method. Bokashi and frass is mixed in the second level, thinking that the seedling soil would be sufficient until they could handle the B & F..
Live/grow and learn.
:Namaste:
 
BuzzzD said:
Quick question for all you scholars....
Is there any need to cure your buds if you are going to decarb to make cococanna oil or if you are going to save it to make winter hash??
Is the cure just to make better smoke??
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Here is my conclusion post from a thread I started to see if anybody knew if the cure improved potency.
Azimuth said:
Alright, here is my conclusion:

I think if you are going right to extracts for topical use or for use in capsule form, there is no need to cure as there doesn't appear to be any improvement in the potency or effectiveness of the cannabinoids or terpenes as part of the cure. And depending on how you extract for topicals you may or may not need to at least dry your harvest first. But, even with topicals, eliminating some of the green color from the chlorophyll might be worth it.

However, if you are going to extracts to use in edibles of some sort, then the cure is important, not for any improvement in the goodies but rather to remove the chlorophyll and its taste. That could also be done with a water cure but in that case you are losing many of the terpenes as well and there seems to be increasing acceptance that they are important input to the medical value of your harvest.

So, since I'll be extracting to either olive oil, coconut oil or vegetable glycerin for use in edibles, I'll be drying and curing as normal.
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Azimuth said:
Here is my conclusion post from a thread I started to see if anybody knew if the cure improved potency.
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i think curing changes the cannabinoids profile 100% they transform into other more and less potent binoids..

many times i have thought 3 or 4 months after harvest a lot more bang..

fresh batch rosin mmm 6 weeks curing .. 17.5 % yield.. tonight very hot and humid here very early..

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do si dos rosin
 
My plant acts like the dosidoss, 5.5g got a gram back. :lot-o-toke:

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Odjob said:
Have you ever winterized rosin dd? Shine works for that to. I need to squish a few days worth. Not into acquiring seed but noticed Blimburn has Biscotti and a bogo on Fat Bastard, 30 - 38 % thc, if you go by the numbers game.
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ok odjob i have no idea what winterized rosin is .. can you tell me all about it ?

never heard of a mj plant yielding 30-38% whats a bogo?

i make the rosin then i smoke it in a few days.. its to dam tasty
 
Odjob said:
Google knows best about winterizing. A way to get rid of plant fats and waxes. Bogo, buy one get one free. Plant is Megladon x Master Kush x Blue Hawaiian x Nakahama. The BH x N hermed so I used the pollen on the Megladon x Kush. Pollen chucking but I'm going to follow it some, even if it's clone only.

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sure is a beauty looking buds no nute burns just a bit of heat curl.. beautiful ..

i still think winterizing is something you do to your cottage or swimming pool..

well those fats ass plants can start walking my dog..

you cant tell me ?
 
Oh boy!
These autos aren't growing well at all. Using a 100 watt Vivosun. They suggested 50% brightness, which I did. I just put it up to 75%. |Last year I had other plants in veg and they did fine at 100%. The stem is dying at the base.

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It's 0.03-0.03-0.03 which is nothing. Lost a month so far :( .
 
scottreid1966 said:
Oh boy!
These autos aren't growing well at all. Using a 100 watt Vivosun. They suggested 50% brightness, which I did. I just put it up to 75%. |Last year I had other plants in veg and they did fine at 100%. The stem is dying at the base.

IMG_20230514_151419.jpg
IMG_20230514_174352.jpg

It's 0.03-0.03-0.03 which is nothing. Lost a month so far :( .
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Wow oh Wow .. scotty you still using that garbage miracle gro i told you no no no ..


get a 107liter bale of hp pro mix at lowes.. 49.00

and buy nutes.. general hydroponic right off amazon.ca

the stem is crushed some how.. ??? its not your light keep it 3 ft off seedlings at full power..

wh
 
Odjob said:
30 - 38% makes you think it's doctored to get that kind of a #. Maybe that Santos dude has a testing facility. I don't need the #s, I got it boiled down to whose walking who. :)
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not sure what your saying ... ?
 
deltadubie said:
not sure what your saying ... ?
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Most don't.:rofl:
scottreid1966 said:
Oh boy!
These autos aren't growing well at all. Using a 100 watt Vivosun. They suggested 50% brightness, which I did. I just put it up to 75%. |Last year I had other plants in veg and they did fine at 100%. The stem is dying at the base.

IMG_20230514_151419.jpg
IMG_20230514_174352.jpg

It's 0.03-0.03-0.03 which is nothing. Lost a month so far :( .
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Seems like some kind damping off. A developed plant handles soil problems WAY better than a seedling. Lots of those pythium spores can be airborne. Maybe lots of fresh air and an even temperature and no COLD at all ! Just an idea to look at. If it was easier I would gift you plants to get you over that problem!
 
scottreid1966 said:
Oh boy!
These autos aren't growing well at all. Using a 100 watt Vivosun. They suggested 50% brightness, which I did. I just put it up to 75%. |Last year I had other plants in veg and they did fine at 100%. The stem is dying at the base.

IMG_20230514_151419.jpg
IMG_20230514_174352.jpg

It's 0.03-0.03-0.03 which is nothing. Lost a month so far :( .
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Hi scotti .. I think the issue is Miracle grow has a continuous ...time release nutrients ...in its soil right from the beginning (Enriched with plant food) which is not good for cannabis seedlings it causes the soil to be to hot for the seedling causing nutrient lockout and deficiencies from the start (yellowing).. Also what is your watering schedule like? water Ph?...How close are you running your lights and what type... Leds... hps?.. Also in the end it could just be bad seed genetics ..Just tryin to find out what your grow environment is like so I can figure out the best way to help ya out! :)
 
Odjob said:
Hard for me to think a starter seed mix would be the major cause of stem rot unless a whole batch is bad. Just me but i always find seed starter trays better for watering except for drying out to fast.
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Yeah, never had a problem germinating in soaked paper towel and then when the root shows straight into jiffy pots and two weeks later in the garden. Here are some pics of United Nations and mountain Gold:

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Odjob said:
Hard for me to think a starter seed mix would be the major cause of stem rot unless a whole batch is bad. Just me but i always find seed starter trays better for watering except for drying out to fast.
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That's why I asked him about a few other factors besides the soil. Like his watering practices and Ph of the water cause at first I thought it looked like over watering issues but I knew from other people that used Miracle grow that they always ran into issue with that soil cause of its time release fertilizers they use in all their soil base products which sucks for cannabis plants on a specific feeding schedule...

The best way to germinate seeds that I found great success with, even with older harder shelled seeds, Is by putting them in rapid rooters on a Dwc bubbler system then once they form a good root system I transfer them into whatever medium I want to grow them in for that round. Almost a 100% germination rate each time.
 
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