Mayne
Well-Known Member
i add 1/2 teasp of calmag to my filtered water, and get a PH of 7.3 and give that to my FFOF grow, no problems YET, !?lol
Autos v. Photos - A 5x5 No Rules Fight for Yield: A Jon & NickHardy Gig
- Thread starter Jon
- Start date
Like the song goes "a spoonful of cal mag helps the nutrients go down"
Ok - getting a little bit serious now. Looks like I'm going to get some time to focus. The new HVAC system is in place. What was done last night missed the point entirely but fixed today.
It was way too cold in there. Down at 25c which meant the VPD has only been at 1-1.1 Started getting that higher this afternoon. I need to rebalance it so its a little dryer (currently 58%) and more like 31c. so we can hit a solid 1.5. Co2 ran out probably Friday. That too is getting changed, the other grows are getting harvested imminently so I can switch off the gas to those tents which will improve the consistency of delivery here. I just need my Bloom Explode to arrive - need to get them on that ASAP - Arrive? Damnit! I Was meant to order it last week. Oops!
Height - all >1m up to maybe 1.3m What I was looking for. I really want to maximise the lowers, get growth way down.
I'm imagining 12 like VG's Plant of the Year Wookies - 420 Magazine's Plant of the Month: June 2023
Scroll down a little and you'll even see a cheeky little dixie plant I grew amongst the contenders.
Nick - He's Back In The Room
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Feels like reading about myself lol. I was about to order feed hoses last week and I'm going away on Friday. Arrive already! I need to play around with feed pumps tonight, bathtub and rubber ducklings anyone?
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- #1,184
Hey @Mayne - curious - why do you ph soil to 7.3?
I don’t even want to tell you that’s a full point too high before I hear your reasoning, but that’s a full point too high. Lol.
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- #1,185
Glad to have your full focus back Nick!
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- #1,186
Happy Monday
A group shot and a focus on the Apple Fritter on day 48. I know from the first one that this strain generates a ton of side branching during the stretch, and she’s doing what she does. I gotta keep up on deflarfing. This is the kind of plant that pops out new growth everywhere all the time, lol. Mostly 60% of it is useless.
A group shot and a focus on the Apple Fritter on day 48. I know from the first one that this strain generates a ton of side branching during the stretch, and she’s doing what she does. I gotta keep up on deflarfing. This is the kind of plant that pops out new growth everywhere all the time, lol. Mostly 60% of it is useless.
- Thread starter
- #1,187
Brix Question
@Gee64, @Keffka, @Azimuth, @StoneOtter
A couple Brix things and a question for my favorite organic snobs, I mean experts, lol!
So I just took a Brix reading on every plant in the tent. That crap takes forever. But I wanted the reference while I still had tons of leaves on each plant to test with.
The four organics range from 12.2 to 13.6. The two plants in the California Super Soil register as the two higher (13.1 and 13.6), while the two Jon Soil Mix plants are both in the 12s (12.2 and 12.4). Last grow, the organic Skywalker in the same Jon Soil Mix never got higher than 14.
This tells me that the reason I’m not getting higher Brix numbers on what appear to be perfect plants is due to a deficiency in my soil mix. Whatever I lack, I am not producing as much sugar as I’d like. I know there are other factors involved, but my DLI and such is never far off. It has to be due to my soil. The fact that the Cali SS plants are higher (and not terrible for the beginning of flower) would seem to support this assertion, as certainly that stuff has a better and more thorough list of ingredients than mine does. Question #1: is this correct?
The chem plants, using Remo and Cyco in flower after Prescription Blend in veg, are a different story. None of them are higher than 12, all but one in the mid 10s. And as I learned last time (and discussed with Gee) it is very difficult to achieve optimal Brix numbers using chemicals. While I pretty much get that that is the reality, I’m not clear as to why that is. Question #2: can anyone explain this to me, and/or does anyone have any secrets for increasing Brix in chem plants?
General Question #3: am I the only person experiencing this?
As always guys, thanks so much in advance for any input you may provide. It is greatly appreciated.
@Gee64, @Keffka, @Azimuth, @StoneOtter
A couple Brix things and a question for my favorite organic snobs, I mean experts, lol!
So I just took a Brix reading on every plant in the tent. That crap takes forever. But I wanted the reference while I still had tons of leaves on each plant to test with.
The four organics range from 12.2 to 13.6. The two plants in the California Super Soil register as the two higher (13.1 and 13.6), while the two Jon Soil Mix plants are both in the 12s (12.2 and 12.4). Last grow, the organic Skywalker in the same Jon Soil Mix never got higher than 14.
This tells me that the reason I’m not getting higher Brix numbers on what appear to be perfect plants is due to a deficiency in my soil mix. Whatever I lack, I am not producing as much sugar as I’d like. I know there are other factors involved, but my DLI and such is never far off. It has to be due to my soil. The fact that the Cali SS plants are higher (and not terrible for the beginning of flower) would seem to support this assertion, as certainly that stuff has a better and more thorough list of ingredients than mine does. Question #1: is this correct?
The chem plants, using Remo and Cyco in flower after Prescription Blend in veg, are a different story. None of them are higher than 12, all but one in the mid 10s. And as I learned last time (and discussed with Gee) it is very difficult to achieve optimal Brix numbers using chemicals. While I pretty much get that that is the reality, I’m not clear as to why that is. Question #2: can anyone explain this to me, and/or does anyone have any secrets for increasing Brix in chem plants?
General Question #3: am I the only person experiencing this?
As always guys, thanks so much in advance for any input you may provide. It is greatly appreciated.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but I feel I have to add something to this.Brix Question
@Gee64, @Keffka, @Azimuth, @StoneOtter
A couple Brix things and a question for my favorite organic snobs, I mean experts, lol!
So I just took a Brix reading on every plant in the tent. That crap takes forever. But I wanted the reference while I still had tons of leaves on each plant to test with.
The four organics range from 12.2 to 13.6. The two plants in the California Super Soil register as the two higher (13.1 and 13.6), while the two Jon Soil Mix plants are both in the 12s (12.2 and 12.4). Last grow, the organic Skywalker in the same Jon Soil Mix never got higher than 14.
This tells me that the reason I’m not getting higher Brix numbers on what appear to be perfect plants is due to a deficiency in my soil mix. Whatever I lack, I am not producing as much sugar as I’d like. I know there are other factors involved, but my DLI and such is never far off. It has to be due to my soil. The fact that the Cali SS plants are higher (and not terrible for the beginning of flower) would seem to support this assertion, as certainly that stuff has a better and more thorough list of ingredients than mine does. Question #1: is this correct?
The chem plants, using Remo and Cyco in flower after Prescription Blend in veg, are a different story. None of them are higher than 12, all but one in the mid 10s. And as I learned last time (and discussed with Gee) it is very difficult to achieve optimal Brix numbers using chemicals. While I pretty much get that that is the reality, I’m not clear as to why that is. Question #2: can anyone explain this to me, and/or does anyone have any secrets for increasing Brix in chem plants?
General Question #3: am I the only person experiencing this?
As always guys, thanks so much in advance for any input you may provide. It is greatly appreciated.
Using the actual Brix index on Cannabis is rather pointless. The reading will cut in half when clouds roll in as an example. What reference range and time of day for taking readings? At dawn? Late at night? Before feeding? After? What part of the plant?
Solids... Nutes, sugars, starches, who knows what solids is in the actual number?
Cannabis resin is a resin, not a juice. The only valid Cannabis Brix meter is the tongue. Last thing we need is people chasing solids in wet plant matter with no regard to what they are.
That's my two cents!
- Thread starter
- #1,189
Don’t apologize, anything informative, even if it’s educated impressions, is greatly appreciated. I’m not looking for agreement, I’m looking for education. Although I am certain you’ll get disagreeing on this, I am not qualified to chip in. Thus, it is me the noob asking the questions. Lol. Thanks.
Schnookie
Well-Known Member
So, let’s take a peek in a little more photographic detail at the Jungle as she is today, Day 47.
Here’s a group shot and a canopy shot of the Jungle as a whole:
I engaged my flower booster feature on the light today. This increases the wattage from 550 to 680. It also brings in reds, far reds, IR and a couple UV diodes. As such I raised the light accordingly. Here’s what my light bars look like with the booster engaged. You can see there are a ton of reds. This gives me the red leaning overhead, augmented with the regular full spectrum from the side lights. They are still at 25% and will bump up to 50% (cursed incremental dimmer, lol) when all the plants have buds and have stacked a while and such.
Here’s the Northern Lights semi organic auto:
And some cola shots - here’s the Bruce Banner #3 auto:
This is the Gorilla Cookies auto in the coco 10:
Here’s the Skywalker semi organic auto:
Here’s the state of the Apple Fritter coco/res girl, not quite showing budlets yet:
This is the gorgeous Trizkit with her gigantic fan leaves, emerald green color, and unruly nature, not yet in flower (whoa!), but almost there. If I’m going to have a problem and have to chop branches I wouldn’t otherwise chop it’s this girl right here:
And so we go. My undercarriage work is finished except for stragglers. All infrastructure is solid and in place. All the plants are healthy. Defol as required is about all I do now, and watch the show: phew.
- Thread starter
- #1,191
FYI -
I heard from Emilya offline for the first time in months today. She asked me to wish everyone well, and that she is taking a mental health break from all things growing for a bit. Hopefully at some point she will be back. Some of us really miss that chick. But as we all know, life has this nasty habit of getting in the way of all things fun.
I heard from Emilya offline for the first time in months today. She asked me to wish everyone well, and that she is taking a mental health break from all things growing for a bit. Hopefully at some point she will be back. Some of us really miss that chick. But as we all know, life has this nasty habit of getting in the way of all things fun.
Honestly I
There are plenty of reasons to check brix. The actual reading itself can tell you where your plant is on the menu for bugs. The trend of your readings can alert you to issues with your plant before you can see them.
Your comments are like saying you don't check the temperature because it changes when the sun goes behind a cloud so whatever the reading was before that happened is useless information.
Where on the plant to take the reading? What time of day to take it? What are the conditions surrounding the reading?
You know all of the relevant questions so you clearly know the issues and why and how knowledgeable growers check it, so spare us the condescending, paternalistic bs.
My two cents!
420
Founder
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I post what I read and what I know from experience. A refractometer measures solids and is used in many industries other than agriculture. Have you used a refractometer in your line of work?Honestly Isometimesoften think you post stuff on here just to create controversy.
There are plenty of reasons to check brix. The actual reading itself can tell you where your plant is on the menu for bugs. The trend of your readings can alert you to issues with your plant before you can see them.
Your comments are like saying you don't check the temperature because it changes when the sun goes behind a cloud so whatever the reading was before that happened is useless information.
Where on the plant to take the reading? What time of day to take it? What are the conditions surrounding the reading?
You know all of the relevant questions so you clearly know the issues and why and how knowledgeable growers check it, so spare us the paternalistic bs.
My two cents!
How do you implement your Brix number and how do you use it in your practice to treat plant symptoms and better plant response? It has no use in practice and its a terminology borrowed from other industries like the grain industry that has had these practices in place for decades, Cannabis has not because of probation and for the reasons I pointed out in earlier posts.
It's not a practice being used by bigger producers and breeders and I'm sorry if I'm bursting your bubble.
Cheers!
Yes, the soil needs to have everything in it the plant will need for the grow, at least the raw materials need to be there so when the plant orders a pizza from the myco delivery crew they can prepare and deliver it. If it ain't there they can't bring it. So the sugars the plant offered in exchange go wasted and, since those are precious, the plant quickly stops asking, especially when it's readily available to them right there on the table next to them.
And come on, it's burgers and fries for crying out loud. Not some kale or spinach you're going to make them grow themselves first.
Feeding Chem nutes is like delivering a full course buffet every day to students who don't know how to cook but then wanting them to learn how to prepare a meal. They won't because there is no need to. They don't need to work for something that's handed to them daily, and they know that if they show a little distress in their leaves a little somethin somethin will be immediately provided to them.
So, you need to pick a side. The plant will develop in synchronicity with its environment and the types of nutrients provided. DWC plants develop different from those in aeroponics, etc. So, trying to make it change its stripes mid grow is counterproductive for both you and the plant. You know, old dog, new tricks and all.
Can you make it change its stripes? Sure, but it's more work on both you and the plant. Better in my mind is embrace the grow you got and maximize the inputs geared to that way.
Two more of my cents.
Azi.
Lol. You act like your opinion on how I grow is somehow important to me. Like I'm waiting for you to bless my practices and if not scramble to change them so they'll be acceptable. You come off like you're somehow the last word on how to grow weed correctly.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Cannabis release amps amount of "sugars" in late flower regardless of growing method. As long as the medium is active with good moisture level it has the same signal pathways regardless and plants can't see difference from synthetical made ions compared to them made by nature. It has no border control or brain. Plants use the same carriers and ion channels regardless of running synthetics or organics and need readily available ions to grow.
Plants stop their signal pathways from stress and that may come from many different factors.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestion but I do my best to stay away from politics and marketing. It's not my place to be.Thought you might have some feedback on this @Doc Bud’s High Brix Blend