GOTANEWBONG
New Member
its hard to see but 1st pic fan leaf is yellowing then 3rd pic gth in a 3g pot its hard to tell but her fan leafs are yellowing worse
Ask Us Anything: Sharing Knowledge 420 Style
GOTANEWBONG
New Member
sorry guys this is end of week 7 from 12/12
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Well, since this is the only thread that anyone actually answers my questions in, I'm going to repost this here...
What the heck is going on with this plant? I think I've been overwatering it, but will overwatering cause all this too? Feel like there's something else going on I'm missing. It's had some color issues creeping up for a while now, but I just figured it was because I had been giving it plain water only and letting it eat what was in the Fox Farms Ocean Forrest. But as soon as I put her in this net and started feeding nutrients, she started drooping and just getting worse week by week. She's in a 7 gallon pot and I had been giving her 1-1.5 gallons of water, and I think that was way more than needed because it kept her wet for 6 days. I've used a moisture meter that's generally accruate for me every time and let it get bone dry before watering, and last time I stuck with half a gallon only. Her leaves are a little less droopy today, but then I found that curled up leaf.
Feeding her the full Earth Juice lineup. In fact I made a nice tea...
In one gallon...
1 Tsp Molasses
2 TBSp EJ Grow
1 Tsp EJ Bloom
1 Tsp Meta-K
1 Tsp Catalyst
1 Tsp Micro-Blast
1 Tsp Oily Cann
Brewed 48 hours.
A drop of Superthrive and half a teaspoon of Azos added in afterward. Should be everything she could ever want and then some. So I'm thinking uptake issue. I'm worried I rotted the roots out, but I'm not sure how to check with the smart pot. Would it be a stupid idea to cut a hole in the side? Like just a 4" x 4" little square just to get a peek at the roots?
(Before scrog)
(After scrog)
I've got 5 clones off her in veg that are doing great, and I have been waiting for her to "recover" before flipping to 12/12 because I need meds really soon. Kind of seemed like she wasn't ever going to recover, so I flipped her to 12/12 yesterday just to get what I get. I'm pretty confident that it's an over-watering issue, I really don't know what else it would be at this point. I'm fearful though because I had some kind of mysterious blight wipe out the other plants in the crop this was originally a part of, but I figured it was something genetic going on with those because this one is a different strain and seemed totally healthy while the others were all ailing. Hoping that it wasn't a genuine soil pathogen of some sort and it just took its time to show up in this plant.
I'm kind of like out of guesses though.
What the heck is going on with this plant? I think I've been overwatering it, but will overwatering cause all this too? Feel like there's something else going on I'm missing. It's had some color issues creeping up for a while now, but I just figured it was because I had been giving it plain water only and letting it eat what was in the Fox Farms Ocean Forrest. But as soon as I put her in this net and started feeding nutrients, she started drooping and just getting worse week by week. She's in a 7 gallon pot and I had been giving her 1-1.5 gallons of water, and I think that was way more than needed because it kept her wet for 6 days. I've used a moisture meter that's generally accruate for me every time and let it get bone dry before watering, and last time I stuck with half a gallon only. Her leaves are a little less droopy today, but then I found that curled up leaf.
Feeding her the full Earth Juice lineup. In fact I made a nice tea...
In one gallon...
1 Tsp Molasses
2 TBSp EJ Grow
1 Tsp EJ Bloom
1 Tsp Meta-K
1 Tsp Catalyst
1 Tsp Micro-Blast
1 Tsp Oily Cann
Brewed 48 hours.
A drop of Superthrive and half a teaspoon of Azos added in afterward. Should be everything she could ever want and then some. So I'm thinking uptake issue. I'm worried I rotted the roots out, but I'm not sure how to check with the smart pot. Would it be a stupid idea to cut a hole in the side? Like just a 4" x 4" little square just to get a peek at the roots?
(Before scrog)
(After scrog)
I've got 5 clones off her in veg that are doing great, and I have been waiting for her to "recover" before flipping to 12/12 because I need meds really soon. Kind of seemed like she wasn't ever going to recover, so I flipped her to 12/12 yesterday just to get what I get. I'm pretty confident that it's an over-watering issue, I really don't know what else it would be at this point. I'm fearful though because I had some kind of mysterious blight wipe out the other plants in the crop this was originally a part of, but I figured it was something genetic going on with those because this one is a different strain and seemed totally healthy while the others were all ailing. Hoping that it wasn't a genuine soil pathogen of some sort and it just took its time to show up in this plant.
I'm kind of like out of guesses though.
It looks like phosphorus deficiency. What is pH of soil,feeding and runoff?Well, since this is the only thread that anyone actually answers my questions in, I'm going to repost this here...
What the heck is going on with this plant? I think I've been overwatering it, but will overwatering cause all this too? Feel like there's something else going on I'm missing. It's had some color issues creeping up for a while now, but I just figured it was because I had been giving it plain water only and letting it eat what was in the Fox Farms Ocean Forrest. But as soon as I put her in this net and started feeding nutrients, she started drooping and just getting worse week by week. She's in a 7 gallon pot and I had been giving her 1-1.5 gallons of water, and I think that was way more than needed because it kept her wet for 6 days. I've used a moisture meter that's generally accruate for me every time and let it get bone dry before watering, and last time I stuck with half a gallon only. Her leaves are a little less droopy today, but then I found that curled up leaf.
Feeding her the full Earth Juice lineup. In fact I made a nice tea...
In one gallon...
1 Tsp Molasses
2 TBSp EJ Grow
1 Tsp EJ Bloom
1 Tsp Meta-K
1 Tsp Catalyst
1 Tsp Micro-Blast
1 Tsp Oily Cann
Brewed 48 hours.
A drop of Superthrive and half a teaspoon of Azos added in afterward. Should be everything she could ever want and then some. So I'm thinking uptake issue. I'm worried I rotted the roots out, but I'm not sure how to check with the smart pot. Would it be a stupid idea to cut a hole in the side? Like just a 4" x 4" little square just to get a peek at the roots?
(Before scrog)
(After scrog)
I've got 5 clones off her in veg that are doing great, and I have been waiting for her to "recover" before flipping to 12/12 because I need meds really soon. Kind of seemed like she wasn't ever going to recover, so I flipped her to 12/12 yesterday just to get what I get. I'm pretty confident that it's an over-watering issue, I really don't know what else it would be at this point. I'm fearful though because I had some kind of mysterious blight wipe out the other plants in the crop this was originally a part of, but I figured it was something genetic going on with those because this one is a different strain and seemed totally healthy while the others were all ailing. Hoping that it wasn't a genuine soil pathogen of some sort and it just took its time to show up in this plant.
I'm kind of like out of guesses though.
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
6.5 across the board
Integrum Stultus
New Member
Try lowering your pH.. maybe to 6.1-6.3 range. Looks as though it could be iron deficient. Cannabis will uptake iron or more iron will become available to the plant with the lower pH value. Same goes for Manganese. It looks like it possibly could be one or both.
You may see a cal/mag deficiency start to develop doing this, don't panic, it can be easily fixed by raising the pH. Always establish a range of pH to shoot for when feeding your ladies, nit a specific reading. It allows for maximum uptake of the various nutrients available. A lot of issues can be solved by regulating your pH when growing in soil.
You may see a cal/mag deficiency start to develop doing this, don't panic, it can be easily fixed by raising the pH. Always establish a range of pH to shoot for when feeding your ladies, nit a specific reading. It allows for maximum uptake of the various nutrients available. A lot of issues can be solved by regulating your pH when growing in soil.
FirstGrowXx
New Member
Hey I am hoping somebody can please help me! This is my first grow and everything seems to be going ok now (had some problems a couple weeks ago! Anyway I have 6 plants , one of them is bigger than the others . I did a lot of research online and read up on topping plants and also watched some tutorials. I read it was best to chop at the 3rd node ?? Anyway I have chopped the top off with scissors but accidentally took off one the new little nodes :/ I will upload pics of why I have done! I am worried I have fooked it up!! X
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Try lowering your pH.. maybe to 6.1-6.3 range. Looks as though it could be iron deficient. Cannabis will uptake iron or more iron will become available to the plant with the lower pH value. Same goes for Manganese. It looks like it possibly could be one or both.
You may see a cal/mag deficiency start to develop doing this, don't panic, it can be easily fixed by raising the pH. Always establish a range of pH to shoot for when feeding your ladies, nit a specific reading. It allows for maximum uptake of the various nutrients available. A lot of issues can be solved by regulating your pH when growing in soil.
Much better chart than I've seen, thanks! I had a hunch it was Potassium and it really looks very similar to that chart.
But I had the same thought about Iron and stuff a couple weeks ago and tried lowering the pH to about 6.3 and that's when things started looking even worse. The only leaves that it's yellowing from petiole to tip like iron does is on the very top growths, but the rest look like Potassium.
It's probably multiple deficiencies, which would indicate a nutrient lockout, but it's been flushed several different times and still persists.
It sounds a lot like how Jorge describes the progression of Potassium too, especially with the way that last leaf pic of mine is all curled up.
But I just can't figure out why it's blocked out. I gave it a pretty stiff dose of Meta-K
Integrum Stultus
New Member
Raise your pH to 6.7-6.9 range and see if it improves. Higher Potassium with the higher pH. Let it start to heal then drop back down and see the response.
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Sounds like that'd be worth a try.
Integrum Stultus
New Member
Per another forum. I also keep this in plastic in my tent with my current feed chart....
Here is what i keep in plastic in my grow room. It is a diagnostic checklist to read through and find the symptoms of your sick plant, also how to fix it, and what it is caused by.
I printed this off a few moons ago, and never let it leave the room. I'm on my third copy now!!! Well, here it goes.......:stoned:
Before we get into this I want you to check a couple things, check the following things:
Plants have plenty of water
Soil is seven PH or even a little less
Your light cycles are correct
No pools of water
Constant fresh air
Now thats out of the way let's diagnose your plant.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foilar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foilar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10
8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20
16), and for flowering plants, 4
8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foilar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
(credit lilmafia513 off of growery.org)
Here is what i keep in plastic in my grow room. It is a diagnostic checklist to read through and find the symptoms of your sick plant, also how to fix it, and what it is caused by.
I printed this off a few moons ago, and never let it leave the room. I'm on my third copy now!!! Well, here it goes.......:stoned:
Before we get into this I want you to check a couple things, check the following things:
Plants have plenty of water
Soil is seven PH or even a little less
Your light cycles are correct
No pools of water
Constant fresh air
Now thats out of the way let's diagnose your plant.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foilar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foilar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 108 (which of course is the same ratio as 2016), and for flowering plants, 48. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foilar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
(credit lilmafia513 off of growery.org)
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I needed a good flow-chart like that. Use to have something similar.
Okay, well... Here's the thing, I think it may be both a lack of Potassium and over-watering. Kind of a compound issue. if I follow that chart while ignoring the yellowing tops, it ends up going to a Potassium problem as I suspected. However if I follow it as effecting the entire plant, it leads to #7 and over-watering.
However in the beginning of that list, it says...
"No puddles of water"
and
"Getting plenty of water"
I had been letting it sit in its runoff before I got this tray to set it up on, but it would only rest in them for a couple of hours because the ventilation in my tent is so high that water just evaporates like crazy in there.
Then the plenty of water bit, well, I've been told it's best to try to dry them out as much as you can before watering, so maybe I am actually underwatering? I don't know.
Okay, well... Here's the thing, I think it may be both a lack of Potassium and over-watering. Kind of a compound issue. if I follow that chart while ignoring the yellowing tops, it ends up going to a Potassium problem as I suspected. However if I follow it as effecting the entire plant, it leads to #7 and over-watering.
However in the beginning of that list, it says...
"No puddles of water"
and
"Getting plenty of water"
I had been letting it sit in its runoff before I got this tray to set it up on, but it would only rest in them for a couple of hours because the ventilation in my tent is so high that water just evaporates like crazy in there.
Then the plenty of water bit, well, I've been told it's best to try to dry them out as much as you can before watering, so maybe I am actually underwatering? I don't know.
I thought about iron deficiency also but, the late stage browning, twisting and mosaic says major issue is "P" deficiency. Yes, pH needs to be lower 6.3 - 6.1. Fix "P" should take care of iron. 1st pic "before SCROG". Upper and new growth yellowing ( were plant gets more light). Transgressed to what I've already stated. Need to fix before it becomes a root issue also. IMO....peace.Try lowering your pH.. maybe to 6.1-6.3 range. Looks as though it could be iron deficient. Cannabis will uptake iron or more iron will become available to the plant with the lower pH value. Same goes for Manganese. It looks like it possibly could be one or both.
You may see a cal/mag deficiency start to develop doing this, don't panic, it can be easily fixed by raising the pH. Always establish a range of pH to shoot for when feeding your ladies, nit a specific reading. It allows for maximum uptake of the various nutrients available. A lot of issues can be solved by regulating your pH when growing in soil.
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Is it possible that it's both P and K?
If nutrient lockout, yes. Concerned about pH 6.5 across the board. Perfect world pH low comes out high on the exception scale for nutrient intake. A good flush to unlock and than... IMO...increase P and keep an eye on K. Feed at a 1.3.2 ratio N.P.K. make sure micro and trace elements are included in your fertilizer.
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
Well I mean, when I tested the runoff, it seemed like it was pretty much just passing through unaltered. I have a couple of those soil probe meters that always say 7, but I'm not really sure how much I trust them. It's kind of weird, I have pH calibration powder, and they both are accurate if I put them in that solution. However, if I soak my soil with my nutrient solution, and put them into the soil, they say 7. But it gets interesting if I do a slurry test, because then it says 6.5, and so does the runoff. Not sure what measure to trust.
I switched over to Earth Juice line of nutrients after flushing the pot out of salts from GH Flora Nova. It was still in a 3 gallon pot then, so after flushing that out with 12 gallons, I transplanted into the 7 gallon smart pot that it's in. Gave it plain water for a while until I started getting these coloring issues (gave it a 400 PPM mix of my old nutrients on 3/22), and when I scrogged it up I decided I couldn't be bothered to take it to the tub to flush it anymore, so that's when I switched to the Earth Juice line because they supposedly don't have any salt residue. Since then it's basically been fed once (on 4/1) with the tea recipe that I listed above. The "micro blast" and "catalyst" have all the micro and trace elements, and I think their mix is at a 1-2-3 ratio but with all the other additives I'm not sure what ratio the tea is at. I basically followed one of the teas they provide on their own website though.
OH forgot to mention, when I transplanted up to the 7 gallon pot, I was a little short on soil, so I put it into a mix of about 60/40 Fox Farms Ocean Forrest and perlite. Maybe closer to 70/30, but it was a good bit of perlite, and fresh Ocean Forrest.
yyc420
New Member
I have a conundrum. Due to a seed mix up from the seed bank, the "autos" I was growing turned out to be photo females and as a result I have 2 plants that are monsters. I know, poor me right? BUT, One plant is ready and the other is a good 2 weeks off. My question is, because they veged for so long (due to me thinking they were autos) before flipping to 12/12 I gots me a real nice big (healthy) root ball. Un-tangling/separating is not an option.
If I were to cut most of the stalk w/o the roots and put that in a seperate flush reservoir would it take up any water to flush at all?
If I were to cut most of the stalk w/o the roots and put that in a seperate flush reservoir would it take up any water to flush at all?
Make butter or oil from your trimmings.
hi guys im new here hope this ok for me to post here with a question..this is my 1st indoor grow i have a 2x4 tent 2 6inch inline fans one in one out.im using mars pro 320 epistar in fox farm soilfeeding between6.5 and 7..with earth jucie bloom.question is im yellowing on leafs and im not sure if its light burn.i think the gohst train haze is in 2 small a pot..its in a 3 gallon and blue dream in 7g this is end of week 7 flower...any help would be good
Looks like some serious nutrient burn, leaves are clawing big time. My ghost train haze was a fairly light feeder as are most Sativas. Id back off on the nitrogen.
Jeez I thought I could ask anything.
Later y'all. Great day
Are you refering to co2?