All Organic High Brix

Very much appreciate your advice on adding azamite to the soil...I actually checked at home de pot, a garden center and my local hydrostore and nobody had it... guess I will have to scope it out online.....

I like your mention of the root scoring, did it to my 1st grow and definitely the roots filled up my new container very well :)
 
Very much appreciate your advice on adding azamite to the soil...I actually checked at home de pot, a garden center and my local hydrostore and nobody had it... guess I will have to scope it out online.....

I like your mention of the root scoring, did it to my 1st grow and definitely the roots filled up my new container very well :)

the hydroshop can get Azomite. Ask them to order it for you and you'll save the shipping cost. It's a great source of micronutrients because they're not all available to the plant so you can't burn them. You must have microbes in order to get the micronutes, so water with those teas!

Growing this way is very interesting. I'm still nervous about the finished product.....everything still looks too good to be true. I don't think mites could hurt these plants. There is a thick coat of wax on the leaves, totally different than any leaves I've had before.

I have no sign of fungus gnats, which I've had for a while now. I haven't sprayed a single chemical, neem, azatrol, anything. (well, I do have a No Pest strip, but it never touched the gnats. I'm using it for spiders.)

If the buds turn out this is going to be unique weed.
 
Hey Doc! I think I might push all in with this High Brix gardening. I found a kit, that I'm pretty sure is the same thing you are using, that has everything in the same ratios you have been saying and all the ingredients. Even if it's not great for flowering cannabis, which we have yet to see, I am 100% convinced it works for fruits and vegetables. At least I will be able to use this stuff for that. Hopefully shipping from Washington isn't so much.
 
Hey Doc! I think I might push all in with this High Brix gardening. I found a kit, that I'm pretty sure is the same thing you are using, that has everything in the same ratios you have been saying and all the ingredients. Even if it's not great for flowering cannabis, which we have yet to see, I am 100% convinced it works for fruits and vegetables. At least I will be able to use this stuff for that. Hopefully shipping from Washington isn't so much.

Bro...that kit is from Spokane. And it does flower cannabis. My flowers are developing quite well so far. The question is how well does it does it produce a finished product?

We shall see!
 
Did we start some plants at the same time?

I suspect that I have a bit more lighting than you do? I've got 2000 watts covering a 3x6 tray....more than enough light. That helps the plants grow large more than anything else.

No sir. My plants are 57 days from 12/12 with 1000 watts, 16 plants in a 4.5x4.5 area. Im trying to get my buds to swell and eat the sugar leaves. brewing a tea as I speak. your plants are kickin my plants but in every way possible lol!
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I'm pretty excited. The difference between a high brix tomato and a regular tomato is ridiculous, the high brix tomato looks like a wax sculpture. I want my weed to look like this also

So do we all, bro!

Here's a little teaser for ya.

As you might recall, I share space with a very experienced hydro grower. He grows the OG SFV cut almost exclusively, for 15 years now. No one grows it better in hydro....it's just amazingly smelly, dank and gorgeous.

So, my last grow I grew the OG, got the cuttings from my hydro buddy, same genetics except in organic soil. I didn't mineralize the soil until it had about 4 weeks to go, but the difference was obvious a week after I added the rock powders. I had gypsum, azomite, dolomite, bone meal in the soil....so there were more minerals than a regular soil, but not like there should have been for high brix.

His product begins to change after storing for a couple months....buds start to get flakey and a bunch of loose shake starts accumulating in the bottom of the jar. Flavor begins to drop off after about the 3rd month, he tells me.

My product has remained sticky and I have no shake. The dried buds are very robust and strong, not fragile and flakey. The smell and taste are getting stronger with curing and I just don't see the buds getting fragile at all. My buddy can tell the difference too. It seems that my product has higher brix than the hydro product.

So, I'm really looking forward to the next few weeks to see what happens on this grow! They are definitely stickier this time than the last time I grew this strain. I just hope they bulk up and get fat and nasty.....stay tuned.
 
No sir. My plants are 57 days from 12/12 with 1000 watts, 16 plants in a 4.5x4.5 area. Im trying to get my buds to swell and eat the sugar leaves. brewing a tea as I speak. your plants are kickin my plants but in every way possible lol!
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Well, you've got about 20 sq ft under 1000 watts, 16 plants.

I've got 18 sp ft under 2000 watts, 10 plants.

It's not a fair comparison! I've got more than twice the lighting.

But your plants do look beautiful and I think you'll get a really nice harvest. Don't be in a hurry to harvest! I find that with the organics, if they stay green, you can add 2 weeks to the flowering time.....and it's worth it! The last two weeks really bulks 'em up.
 
No sir. My plants are 57 days from 12/12 with 1000 watts, 16 plants in a 4.5x4.5 area. Im trying to get my buds to swell and eat the sugar leaves. brewing a tea as I speak. your plants are kickin my plants but in every way possible lol!

You might try giving them a PK spike. That can really help shut down green growth of the leaves and get the buds to swell up. It will also seriously injure the microherd....but you can bring it back with tea the next week.

That's the beauty of the minerals.....there's so dang much phosphates in the soil that are unavailable to the plants, but that the microbes can get when the plant needs it. No burning, infinite supply of nutrition.....that's High Brix.
 
Hey Doc, very much appreciate your sharing of your wisdom with us! I was wondering if you could take a look at my grow journal #3, Icemud's Organic SCROG! Grow 3.0, I am trying to tune the ratio's of my soil amendments and could appreciate your expertise. Thanks!!!
 
Appreciate your visitation to my journal yesterday Doc!! your ideas set my research in the right direction... upon researching, I found something that I am going to look into further before application, but have you every seen anything about raw milk being used in foliar sprays... I know, kind of sounds crazy, but I came across some information showing that the addition of milk as a foliar, increases crop health and brix.. which correlates to a earlier post I mentioned the use of panchagavya which is a blend of 5 useful things from a cow (cow dung, urine, milk, curd and ghee). Just thought it may be an interesting topic for you to check out...

Also...any recommendation's on refractometer types or brands?
 
Appreciate your visitation to my journal yesterday Doc!! your ideas set my research in the right direction... upon researching, I found something that I am going to look into further before application, but have you every seen anything about raw milk being used in foliar sprays... I know, kind of sounds crazy, but I came across some information showing that the addition of milk as a foliar, increases crop health and brix.. which correlates to a earlier post I mentioned the use of panchagavya which is a blend of 5 useful things from a cow (cow dung, urine, milk, curd and ghee). Just thought it may be an interesting topic for you to check out...

Also...any recommendation's on refractometer types or brands?

Quality raw milk is loaded with calcium and all kinds of anti-bodies. It will inhibit all kinds of bugs, as well as powdery mildew.

But if you want to increase Brix with a foliar spray, you better make sure your soil is very much alive and that it's not too hot.

Foliar sprays increase brix by feeding the microbes via root exudates. No microbes=total waste of time.

Look on E-bay for refractometers. Analog is just as good as digital and much cheaper.
 
Quality raw milk is loaded with calcium and all kinds of anti-bodies. It will inhibit all kinds of bugs, as well as powdery mildew.

But if you want to increase Brix with a foliar spray, you better make sure your soil is very much alive and that it's not too hot.

Foliar sprays increase brix by feeding the microbes via root exudates. No microbes=total waste of time.

Look on E-bay for refractometers. Analog is just as good as digital and much cheaper.

Thanks Doc....I was debating analog ones vs digital and it seemed to me most were happy with the analog ones... just wasn't too sure because there is not too much information regarding different brands available...thanks for confirming my suspicion:thanks:

I was reading about the usefulness of a chorophyll meter as well, but when I saw the price range of them... $1000+ I was like, I'll pass and stick to the refractometer...

Much appreciation of your help DocBud!
 
Thanks Doc....I was debating analog ones vs digital and it seemed to me most were happy with the analog ones... just wasn't too sure because there is not too much information regarding different brands available...thanks for confirming my suspicion:thanks:

I was reading about the usefulness of a chorophyll meter as well, but when I saw the price range of them... $1000+ I was like, I'll pass and stick to the refractometer...

Much appreciation of your help DocBud!

Lucky for us we've both got chlorophyll meters built in to our heads.....eyes. If the leaves are green, they've got chlorophyll!!

Make sure you get a mortar and pestle (or device for squeezing leaf juice) so you can take a sample.

I can tell you this for sure:

Growing this way, the leaves of your plants will look very, very different. They are waxy and shiny----you've heard me go on and on and on about this here on my journal----but when you see it for yourself you'll know what I mean. People who visit literally trip out on my plants. They look radioactive the way they shine and change color.

I'll try to get some more pics....buds are filling in tight and sticky.

I do not have any bug issues at all. In fact, if mites tried to eat my leaves, I think they'd choke to death on wax. They can't digest sugar, so the increased sugar levels in the leaves also repels mites and other pests.

The top of the soil stays loose and light, not crusty or packed.

To the best of my knowledge----and I'm trailblazing here----we're shooting for brix levels over 12 in the leaves. Vegetable gardeners report pest pressure drops when leaves go over 12.

The plants will also deal with heat and frost much better when the brix is high.

The big question is what will the product be like? What, if any, differences will there be with potency, effect, taste?

We shall see!
 
Some Pics.

It's safe to say at this point that the High Brix style of growing will produce high quality buds. Those who were wondering about the kit....go ahead and buy one. These are going to be the best plant's I've grown to date.

It's also safe to say that foliar sprays (the kind I'm using) are serious tools. I've never had buds ripen at this stage of the game. But I did spray with Bloomit once, which is a stimulant for reproductive growth.

The buds aren't half formed and already they're ripening a bit. Dense, frosty, stinky....and still forming and growing....about 5 weeks to go. Things are just starting to happen....I predict insanely frosty, dank, sticky buds in 5 weeks. I am worried that I will achieve cult-like status with the local collectives once they see this product. I've been very reserved about making predictions like this until now.....this is working as advertised! :morenutes:

Note to self: don't use Bloomit until you want ripening. Stick with Amaze until late into bloom.
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The less mature plants were all started on 12/12. As you can see, there is no reason to veg plants that have significant equatorial genetics in them. They are used to germinating and growing with 12 hours of darkness from the get-go. Top them and you delay flowering for a few weeks....essentially vegging the plant and saving electricy at the same time.
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