All Organic High Brix
- Thread starter Doc Bud
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OrganicTreees
New Member
I still haven't gotten to use my soil mix, it has a couple of weeks left until I can use it, but I replaced my nutrient regime with a once a week tea, and my plants are doing so much better than they ever have, I've had no leaf issues, and I haven't had to spray for bugs in the past 2 weeks, and there are little to no signs of any mite activity.. I really believe it's because my plants are becoming stronger and healthier from the microbe action. My vegging plants have never looked this good, and my flowering plants are throwing trichs all over the big fans and stems. Amazing stuff, I can't wait to see what the new soil will be like. All this organic talk has made me daydream about building a worm farm to harvest my own castings.. It would take the major cost out of growing whenever I need amendments.
Doc, I'm sure your plants are going to be nothing short of amazing this time around.
Doc, I'm sure your plants are going to be nothing short of amazing this time around.
- Thread starter
- #163
Thanks bro!
I the only thing I can say is:
1.)Awesome job on taking your grow to the next level
2.)Be careful with the super soil! It's easy to over-do it. I'm to the point where I'm looking at my super soil like a fertilizer, not a soil. Seriously, I'm thinking one scoop per 7 gallon pot at this point.
The microbes are very efficient at feeding the plant!
OrganicTreees
New Member
I've been thinking the same thing since I'm getting such great results right now. I'm in plain roots 707 which isn't hot at all, and with once a week basic teas (~300ppm) they are going better than ever. I usually start dropping leaves mid flower when on any prior nutrient program and they would suffer, but right now I have widows around week 7 and they are still 90% green, with only the very oldest fan leaves starting to die off. I have much better trich coverage too, it's amazing. I think the vert bulb has something to do with that too.
I had a widow mom that was pretty abused by mites and was yellowing 2 weeks into flower. I top dressed with compost and EWC (just enough to form a think layer on top) and since it has greened up and resumed bud formation. It's serious gardening working with the microbes.
I had a widow mom that was pretty abused by mites and was yellowing 2 weeks into flower. I top dressed with compost and EWC (just enough to form a think layer on top) and since it has greened up and resumed bud formation. It's serious gardening working with the microbes.
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- #165
I love it. Those little critters know EVERYTHING about feeding plants.
And, they're not that hard to take care of....just give 'em a nice mineralized soil and lots of new friends every week.
What I've found with the organic approach is that you can add 2 weeks to flower time. You'll have better triches, better taste and a smoother, better high.....but it will take 2 weeks longer. Those last 2 weeks is where a lot of bulking up occurs.
Stoned4daze61
New Member
Okay Doc I've spent almost an hour scouring this journal and your last with no avail. In the middle of this journal you mention you mix 1.5cf bags at a time so that is what your recipe calls for, however all that is listed in the beginning is your rock powders. I wasn't sure if the recipe listed in your Scrog journal was for a 1.5 cf bag?
I only have a few additives for the coco this go because I'm pretty strapped for cash after all these organic products/tea brewer but I'm hoping to keep improving over time
So before I make any epic mistakes, how many cups of each additive should I add
Medium: 1.5cf Royal Gold Tupur (coco mix)
Additives:
-Gypsum
-Azomite
-Worm Castings
I only have a few additives for the coco this go because I'm pretty strapped for cash after all these organic products/tea brewer but I'm hoping to keep improving over time
So before I make any epic mistakes, how many cups of each additive should I add
Medium: 1.5cf Royal Gold Tupur (coco mix)
Additives:
-Gypsum
-Azomite
-Worm Castings
- Thread starter
- #167
I'm not at all familiar with the proper use of coco. I have no idea what you should add or not....sorry bro.
The soil recipe calls for limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum in a 6-5-3 ratio. (assuming the potting soil has not been amended) 1 cup per bag of soil of this mix will work, along with 1/2 cup of Azomite.
However, if you do this with Coco, I have no idea if it will work. What do the microbes eat in coco? How much organic material are you going to add to the coco?
It seems pointless to me to turn coco into soil. People use coco because it's cheap, easy to transport, has excellent wetting properties and can be used as a hydroponic-like medium. Coco will yield better and exhibit faster growth than soil.
However, if you want something special, you need microbes and minerals....that's high brix.
It's not the only way to grow. But it does offer something no other method does....the highest sugar and mineral content possible. I'm hoping it results in a superior product, just like with vegetables.
Hey Doc, first let me apologize up front for more questions...You always go above and beyond trying to answer everyone’s questions and I for one, REALLY appreciate it!
So now I’m a little confused... I’m sure things are evolving as you go, and that might be why... I just want to get the right amount of minerals in the soil!
I use 1 cubic foot bags... 1 cf = roughly 7.5 gallons. 1/4 cup rock powders per gallon would be roughly 1 3/4 cups per bag (to keep the same ratio it would actually be 1 3/4 cups + 2 tbs).
For the Azomite 2 tbs per gallon would be roughly 1 cup per bag (technically 1 tbs less than 1 cup.)
Maybe the amounts aren't as important as the ratios? I already have the soil mixed, but it's not that big a deal to cut the minerals in half by adding another bag of soil... Again I really appreciate all the guidance you've given.
So now I’m a little confused... I’m sure things are evolving as you go, and that might be why... I just want to get the right amount of minerals in the soil!
I use 1 cubic foot bags... 1 cf = roughly 7.5 gallons. 1/4 cup rock powders per gallon would be roughly 1 3/4 cups per bag (to keep the same ratio it would actually be 1 3/4 cups + 2 tbs).
For the Azomite 2 tbs per gallon would be roughly 1 cup per bag (technically 1 tbs less than 1 cup.)
Maybe the amounts aren't as important as the ratios? I already have the soil mixed, but it's not that big a deal to cut the minerals in half by adding another bag of soil... Again I really appreciate all the guidance you've given.
- Thread starter
- #169
Hey Doc, first let me apologize up front for more questions...You always go above and beyond trying to answer everyone's questions and I for one, REALLY appreciate it!
So now I'm a little confused... I'm sure things are evolving as you go, and that might be why... I just want to get the right amount of minerals in the soil!
I use 1 cubic foot bags... 1 cf = roughly 7.5 gallons. 1/4 cup rock powders per gallon would be roughly 1 3/4 cups per bag (to keep the same ratio it would actually be 1 3/4 cups + 2 tbs).
For the Azomite 2 tbs per gallon would be roughly 1 cup per bag (technically 1 tbs less than 1 cup.)
Maybe the amounts aren't as important as the ratios? I already have the soil mixed, but it's not that big a deal to cut the minerals in half by adding another bag of soil... Again I really appreciate all the guidance you've given.
The ratio in most important for sure. 1.5 cubic ft of soil is approx 9 one gallon pots.
2 cups will work....I think one cup will also work, especially if you're adding in rock powders with feedings, as I am.
Since I'm getting mild signs of overfeeding, I'm adjusting down a bit. I wasn't completely clear when I said a few posts ago that I was diluting my feedings....they include rock powders.
Here's where the trouble comes in. Outdoors with the sun vs. indoors with the lights. You've got to feed less indoors, because the plants simply aren't as vigorous. I've been converting from acres to gallons, etc.
That's cool! I can just cut what I have 50/50 with more soil and be pretty close to where I should probably be.
I knew you were learning, and adjusting as you went, so no surprises there! Much like with the OC+, you're one of the trailblazers bro...we're just following you down the path!
I knew you were learning, and adjusting as you went, so no surprises there! Much like with the OC+, you're one of the trailblazers bro...we're just following you down the path!
- Thread starter
- #171
That's cool! I can just cut what I have 50/50 with more soil and be pretty close to where I should probably be.
I knew you were learning, and adjusting as you went, so no surprises there! Much like with the OC+, you're one of the trailblazers bro...we're just following you down the path!
That's cool.....just don't follow me off a cliff if things don't quite pan out. The organic soil I was using prior to this method worked really well! I'm hoping this will be better, but there may be some issues that need solving and I don't want anyone to get hurt.
I'm on a quest to grow the best weed possible. I'll make mistakes along the way....
Stoned4daze61
New Member
Well I could easily go get a bag of soil but I bought the coco this round because I've heard very good things and I'd like to try something different.
I was going to add the worm castings and mycorrhizal fungi to the Coco. Along with my EWC & seaweed teas and foliars.
If I chose soil what would I benefit from? Are you talking about loaded soils that contain stuff like kelp meal, bat guano, worm castings, etc ?
I thought that the coco with the castings and fungi would be decent, I was trying to make up for all the supersoil amendments with my organic nutrients since I don't have the funds ATM. For example my organic grow nutrient consist of: High N Bat Guano, High Phosphorous Bat Guano, Alfalfa meal, kelp meal, fish meal, bone meal, blood meal, molasses, sulfate of potash, & soft rock phosphate.
- Thread starter
- #173
I don't know anything about coco, other than it has an affinity for positive ions, like calcium, and the CE is quite different than soil.
Plants evolved (were created?) over millions of years to grow in soil. Soil in pristine areas tends to be very different than soil that has been farmed to death. The pristine soil tends to have far more minerals.
Plants were never supposed to grow in coco.....
The fact that they can grow very well in coco is more of a testament to the plants' ability to adapt than the superiority of coco.
If you want to grow the plant to it's full genetic potential, you'll need microbes. I have no idea how to establish a proper microbial population in coco. Coco was never meant to function as soil.
Can it be done? I'm sure it can!!! I simply don't know how to do it.
But these plants and microbes are well adapted for a few million years now in soil. So...I choose soil as my medium.
Smooth1
Active Member
Don't know if I can help my last grow was in coco but not organic.
I think it's in abandoned but it's finished now.
I know coco is steamed and sterilised which I believe make it hard for microbes ect. The ph also is lower at 5.8 which could also effect setup of organics as they like to sort the ph there self.
You also have to supplement all nutrients, micro, trace as it is sterilised and the is nothing to help plants as it just a medium. Abit like growing in straight perlite but hold water better.
Saying all that I got some great yields donut depends what your after I think killer yield or killer smoke.
Hope this helps
Smooth
Don't know if I can help my last grow was in coco but not organic.
I think it's in abandoned but it's finished now.
I know coco is steamed and sterilised which I believe make it hard for microbes ect. The ph also is lower at 5.8 which could also effect setup of organics as they like to sort the ph there self.
You also have to supplement all nutrients, micro, trace as it is sterilised and the is nothing to help plants as it just a medium. Abit like growing in straight perlite but hold water better.
Saying all that I got some great yields donut depends what your after I think killer yield or killer smoke.
Hope this helps
Smooth
Smooth1
Active Member
I apologise for double post don't no what when on there
- Thread starter
- #176
Good stuff! I did not feed them anything for a week, and only 1/2 strength the week before. I think I've got the curl under control and I'm getting a few yellow lower leaves, all of which is good.
The buds are forming and the trichomes are starting to really come out. I'm not using Snow Storm this grow. I also didn't use it on the last grow.
Here's what I notice with the Snow Storm Ultra: Larger triches, more visible to the naked eye. Potency, same. I may start using it again, but after I'm done with this grow.
At this point, it appears that the high brix approach is going to produce quality buds, so I'm very happy about that!
We are 2 days into week 4 of bloom. (switch to 12/12)
These pics show the color of the leaves pretty well. They're sort of an olive green if you look from one angle, dark green from another. I have a hard time photographing them because they reflect back like stained glass.
The smell is lovely. 8 weeks to go!
The buds are forming and the trichomes are starting to really come out. I'm not using Snow Storm this grow. I also didn't use it on the last grow.
Here's what I notice with the Snow Storm Ultra: Larger triches, more visible to the naked eye. Potency, same. I may start using it again, but after I'm done with this grow.
At this point, it appears that the high brix approach is going to produce quality buds, so I'm very happy about that!
We are 2 days into week 4 of bloom. (switch to 12/12)
These pics show the color of the leaves pretty well. They're sort of an olive green if you look from one angle, dark green from another. I have a hard time photographing them because they reflect back like stained glass.
The smell is lovely. 8 weeks to go!
ShadowGrow
New Member
Looking beautiful Doc!
- Thread starter
- #179
Thanks bro!
Everything looks AWESOME!!! And by the way, I just got some Snow Storm Ultra, and do you think it more beneficial tto use as foliar feed or 5ml in veg and 10 in bloom?
I have only used it in feed water, in bloom only.
I added 5ml gal in weeks 3 to 5, 10ml after that. I've heard that foliar works well too.
wow garden looks great doc! How do you think this grow compares so far to an oc+ grow?
