AK1 Grows Indicas with JD Lightings

Fuck me lol If I ever need a security guard your it man!!

Ok so couple small updates
Here in a few I'll be crawling BACK into the attic to run my new 10/3 wire and installing a 30 amp breaker ($%#@^%&#$@$&*!!!!!!!!!!!)

After that is done I will continue to clean the rest of the garage. Hopefully I'll be done with that tonight as well. I'm also going to install another vent into the room to get cooler air in. I still have that 6in vent so I'll use that.
 
Ok, so got the new wiring ran and everything wired in, installed the new breaker and pop lights on. It's in test mode now turning on and off to make sure the breaker doesn't pop anymore.
Got the vent partially installed. Went to use the screw gun to put some screws in to hold the new vent in place and the battery died (sigh0 so it's on the charger and I'm waiting on that. Suppose i could go put more shit in the attic but I'd rather not lol
 
With the lights on and the extra vent installed the room is a cozy 74.8 degrees after 20 minutes of running. MUCH cooler then it was before. RH in the room is 28%

On a messed up note; the breaker popped again when the lights came back on. i will have to call CAP tomorrow and see what the hell is going on. Certainly shouldn't pop now.

How long was that 10/3 wire you had to run? you know the longer the extension cord (same as what your doing) the longer the more amps it's going to draw( i might not be saying this right, but you should know what I mean). requiring a thicker cable, But I bet a little bigger breaker will do the job.

Better talk to Pops some more too.
 
cable run is 50ft max
I try not to bug dad much unless I'm really lost. I know everything i have done is correct and I have installed the breaker that CAP suggests I use and the cable they suggest I use. May have to drag my multi meter out and see what the intital draw is when it fires off.

Did ya let them know you had to run 50ft of cable? so what, is the main popping while the lights are warming up? their biggest draw?
 
so what happens if you try firing 3 of them up? when I 1st wired up my cap the ground wire (green) inside the box was under the set screw. It wouldn't have been making good contact if I wouldn't have noticed it. My 2nd cap for the veg was fine. just might be something to check.
and double check work plz . green/copper = ground and what ever you wired the other 2 as Black = common . red/white what ever was in your bundle of wires to possibly neutral (was that right?) (the other side of 220) and and other wire mixed up? don't switch without knowing for sure.

just some ideers to check out.
 
so what happens if you try firing 3 of them up? when I 1st wired up my cap the ground wire (green) inside the box was under the set screw. It wouldn't have been making good contact if I wouldn't have noticed it. My 2nd cap for the veg was fine. just might be something to check.
and double check work plz . green/copper = ground and what ever you wired the other 2 as Black = common . red/white what ever was in your bundle of wires to possibly neutral (was that right?) (the other side of 220) and and other wire mixed up? don't switch without knowing for sure.

just some ideers to check out.

Well ALL the wires are suppose to be under the set screw, thats what they are for.
Lights seem to be working now and not popping the fuse. Very odd
 
You may be close to the breaker's limit during the power on. Inrush surge can be 150% or rated load (or more for motors). Maybe it trips some of the time. Also hot-starts (bulb was on, then off, then restarted without cooling) may be even harder. It all depends on the equipment. Hot-starts are more of a problem for the bulbs....they make a timer to let the bulb cool before restarting it. Here's a cool link to a calculator for wiring sizes..Voltage Drop Calculator
 
You may be close to the breaker's limit during the power on. Inrush surge can be 150% or rated load (or more for motors). Maybe it trips some of the time. Also hot-starts (bulb was on, then off, then restarted without cooling) may be even harder. It all depends on the equipment. Hot-starts are more of a problem for the bulbs....they make a timer to let the bulb cool before restarting it. Here's a cool link to a calculator for wiring sizes..Voltage Drop Calculator

VERY glad to see you here and posting OG13 and thanks for the link! I took everything apart and changed some wiring a bit and am testing it again. SO far so good. Timer will tell (cough) pun intended!

Room is staying at a perfect 77 degrees with all the lights on at the moment!
 
Ok, so something is amiss, I have been reading JD lighting information. At 240 volts each light is suppose to draw 4.28 amps x 4 which is 17.4 amps. Now at start up add an additional 3 amps. dpoesn't say if that is per light or not. Lets say for arguement sake it is. that would put me at 29.12 amps. Just a hair under my 30 amp breaker.
Now read thier directions further and they want 10 amps extra per ballast so in other words I would need close to 60 amps in order to run all thier lights. Frickin crazy
I took one light off line and everything seems to be working fine. Put the 4th light back in service and the breaker blows again.
I'm calling them tomorrow. 60 amps to run 4 lights is crazy man.
 
depending on your area, you should actually work out your amps draw based on 110v or 220v. the voltage can vary depending on whats feeding your line. (im in a 220 area and i think berkshire is 232 iirc) anyways when you divide your watts by your volts its ALWAYS better to default to the biggest answer and in this case its 220.

in this case your 17.4 is more like 18.9....just something to think about ;)
 
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