700W LED - Auto Topping Grow - 2 Plants

No should be fine with an auto u will see preflowers then it will stretch.its after stretch u hit them with bloom nutes then strip the bottom growth off the plant .u sound like ur at the perfect point to do this;) best of luck mate:passitleft::high-five:

I thought the stretch had already started to be honest. You saying there is more to come?
Thanks for the confidence mate :-)
 
My autos showed pre-flowers then doubled in size over about 3 weeks (the ones on the balcony did, not sure about the outdoor ones as dont see them too often). Glad it has now stopped stretching and the buds filling out slowly but surely. Only problem i have is if i get visitors. Not much chance of moving them outside now and with visitors they need moved in a cupboard but start to smell after a short while as they in a confined space. Just need to hope no-one notices. Also my other photo plant i have been trying to forceflower for around 3 weeks. No pre-flowers yet. Sometimes the 12/12 a bit off as in perhaps an hour or so either way but would have thought this wouldnt cause any problems.
 
U can make an auto flower flower faster by switching to bloom nutes before stretch .but will affect its growth.whem an auto shows preflowers that is not the start of flower.its just her flipping through the proccess from veg to flower.keep her on veg feed as the plant needs that feed to stretch properly.when stretch has come to a stop switch to bloom nutes then ul notice buds really starting to form. If its sativa dom then gna stretch like a normal plant.i go by my seeds info as to how i train my plants;) hope this helps:)
 
Spart as u wna see me do this next run il do side by side 1 topped 1 untopped.but will not be the same strain but will be both top genetic autos;)
 
Schtiggy welcome mate looks abit like nute burn but isnt.and is working its way onto some leaves but not at a very fast rate.i gave a few things to sort the problem.so time will tell.i blame it on the cheap soil im not using biobizz light mix i fancied a challenge.but next run im defo back on lightmix.;)
 
Schtiggy welcome mate looks abit like nute burn but isnt.and is working its way onto some leaves but not at a very fast rate.i gave a few things to sort the problem.so time will tell.i blame it on the cheap soil im not using biobizz light mix i fancied a challenge.but next run im defo back on lightmix.;)

6 of my last 10 were purely experimental. I did not feed ahead of deficiencies. I kept a written record of how long it took each to develop certain deficiencies. They started with calcium, then quickly moved to mag, then right on down the row. It seems that most followed a similar pattern of deficiencies, all started with Calcium def. at about 2.5-3wks. Calcium is an immobile element and the deficiency is easy to spot in new growth. Lower leaves cannot die back and surrender calcium to upper leaves. Mag def followed within days and started with a reddening of the petioles on the lower leaves. From the plants that I "treated" with nutes for deficiencies I averaged about 1 ounce per plant and the stretch was very weak. It was extremely difficult to tell if I had caught the deficiencies and the dying leaves all had to be removed. When I feed ahead I average about 4 ounces per, using 3 gallon fabric pots. I have scrapped the AN and gone with Sierra Naturals. Still no Ph required but it is certified organic and I have had better luck with 3 part.

I also attached a pic from last winter of a topped vs untopped Jack Herrer Auto. Someone posted that they were looking to see the difference.
P21900031.JPG
 
6 of my last 10 were purely experimental. I did not feed ahead of deficiencies. I kept a written record of how long it took each to develop certain deficiencies. They started with calcium, then quickly moved to mag, then right on down the row. It seems that most followed a similar pattern of deficiencies, all started with Calcium def. at about 2.5-3wks. Calcium is an immobile element and the deficiency is easy to spot in new growth. Lower leaves cannot die back and surrender calcium to upper leaves. Mag def followed within days and started with a reddening of the petioles on the lower leaves. From the plants that I "treated" with nutes for deficiencies I averaged about 1 ounce per plant and the stretch was very weak. It was extremely difficult to tell if I had caught the deficiencies and the dying leaves all had to be removed. When I feed ahead I average about 4 ounces per, using 3 gallon fabric pots. I have scrapped the AN and gone with Sierra Naturals. Still no Ph required but it is certified organic and I have had better luck with 3 part.

I also attached a pic from last winter of a topped vs untopped Jack Herrer Auto. Someone posted that they were looking to see the difference.
P21900031.JPG
What were the yeilds you got from each of those plants in the pics? Was it relatively the same or noticibly different?
 
If it's not the same strain then it's different no matter what.... it's hard to gauge on them really cause even different seeds of the same strain can develop differently....
 
What were the yeilds you got from each of those plants in the pics? Was it relatively the same or noticibly different?

The topped plant yielded 3 1/4 and 3.5(x2) while the untopped yielded 2 3/4. In the tent I had 4 running. 3 topped, and only 1 not topped. I pulled just over 13 dried from all 4. The best yields were topped. I am down to about a 4 month supply so I have a new run going that I have to be serious about. Just topped the first one yesterday at 13 days old. Could have topped 2 days ago, but I had an incident in the past where I cut off one of the tops by cutting early with a bit of a shaky hand :) I actually very much enjoy the experimenting, but when it comes to taking care of my supply....I follow a very similar method to Beast's, I've even adopted his watering schedule and it works better. I think it allows the roots to have access to more oxygen for longer periods of time.
 
You will get various answers to this question. There is a grower in here that has topped his autos multiple times. With mine, if I can't top by day 15, I don't top. My earliest top was 10 days above soil. I have only tried topping once per plant.
When you say "if I can't top by day 15", what would stop you from topping by that age?
 
When you say "if I can't top by day 15", what would stop you from topping by that age?

It needs enough time to recover and put out new bud sites (to make up for the one you sacrifice by topping!) before the auto is ready to harvest. If it's a quick-finishing auto (i.e. something like 45 days), it doesn't give much time! ;)
 
If u want best results from a topped auto. Them top young at 3rd node or 4th normally around day 14 to 18 of life
.this will make her structure for later on.topping it the plant will branch out all on its own.and gives u lots of dominant colas;)
 
I was gonna top my autos but they were so slow in getting started that i didnt bother. Mine will be 90 days come next week (popped 30th april) and still not ready to chop even though they supposed to be seed to harvest in 70 days. I was hoping to chop within a week or 2 but more likely be another 4-6 weeks. All depends if they ready by mid august as can only do on a wed as my pal no work on a wed and i only off every 2nd wed, plus he has a place where we can trim and dry. Got too much to dry at my place or his as we got kids and it will stink the place out.
 
I know you know already beast but for those wanting to do it....I just topped 4 of my 6 autos going right now. Topped 2 at 13 days and 2 at 14 days. They are now all 17 days old and the 4 that got topped are already bigger plants than the 2 that I didnt. I think it may have triggered a small growth spurt somehow?
Is that possible beast?

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