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ya nutes help so dose B1 when doing transplants. i am glad your happy with these lights and the way your girls are working out. its fun to see how much better their day by day. Hempy mixed with these leds and silica/H2O2 in veg is a potent combo i am finding out.
Ill shoot you that link right now.
oh any idea how how the OC+ effects the PH?
ya nutes help so dose B1 when doing transplants. i am glad your happy with these lights and the way your girls are working out. its fun to see how much better their day by day. Hempy mixed with these leds and silica/H2O2 in veg is a potent combo i am finding out.
Ill shoot you that link right now.
oh any idea how how the OC+ effects the PH?
the biggest conspiracy in led history!! i just order even bigger FAKE RUBBER colas for this current grow to scam everyone more. by the way i am going to get 3.gw with this grow using just water. since i scammed everyone so bad with my .76gw or whatever it was with my last grow?LMAO. why didnt i just say the famous 1.gw to sale more of these lights? stupid me. everyone brake out the check books and send me ur money!!!!yes, it's a huge conspiracy, lol
don't forget to mail me those fake rubber colas you used for your last harvest pics
I for one own one of mikes 300w led lights.. I must say I feel far from being ripped off.. And I've been growing with a 400w HPS since the 80's
becaful your gonna get blamed for being in ties with HLG also. you dont want to hurt ur cousin mikes feeling and make my brother made at me and ruined our big led scam. LMAO!!!!
Nice try kahn....
OC+ has nearly equal amounts of ammoniacal and nitrate forms of nitrogen. Those two lower and raise pH respectively, so the balance should be close to neutral.
The other nutes in OC+ are mostly chelated, so they'll absorb at any pH range. In hempy's I've had consistent trouble with calcium....until I started using tap water and OC+....no problems since.
I had one plant with a zinc deficiency, which was quickly fixed with 2 doses of Liquinox.
I'm learning a ton of stuff about pH and soil culture, etc. The most interesting thing I've learned is that pH isn't really that important....but total Alkalinity is. In other words, the pH of the water can be adjusted.....but the overall acid buffering capacity of the water----total alkalinity----does it's own thing once in the medium. In other words, if the total alkalinity of your tap water is high....pHing it down to optimal levels will still result in raising the pH of the medium.
Use of high alkalinity waters in container-grown crops result in significant increases in soil pH. These increases result not from water pH as is commonly thought, but from the accumulation of bicarbonates deposited from repeated applications of irrigation water. Deficiencies of iron, manganese, copper and zinc are common where high alkalinity waters are being used. Alkalinity, not water pH, causes soil pH increases. Low alkalinity, high pH waters in most cases will not be a problem.
So, a fast, easy way to reduce total alkalinity is the mix tap water with RO, and pH that mix. Using straight RO will often lead to deficiencies. The minerals in tap water are important for plants!
So, a fast, easy way to reduce total alkalinity is the mix tap water with RO, and pH that mix. Using straight RO will often lead to deficiencies. The minerals in tap water are important for plants!
stevehman, If your going to go through all that check out some of the fem'd seeds availabe their really well priced ! And it's a lot less gamble . Nothing worse than finding a male way in the corner a day too late ! Plus last year my first try out of 10 seeds I got 2 females ! This time I ordered fem'd ! And if you can get some good clones better yet you know what ouyr getting !
If some clones were to magically appear....just speculating here......what would you do with your PPP seeds?speaking of germination, I only got 3 out of 5 LR2 seeds to germinate on this grow.
One of them looked white and dead and I knew it wouldn't pop, but another one that looked OK didn't pop either.
The reason I popped them to begin with is that I had them for about a year in the refrigerator and wanted to grow them while the seeds were still fairly viable.
All of the PPP seeds from Nirvana look very good, and I'm currently germinating two of them that I will grow out as clone donors for the LED/HID grow.
save them for a future grow
Maybe DrWho will loan the tardis out for such a special occasion.How do you "save" a seed that's already germinated?
How do you "save" a seed that's already germinated?
"Currently" meant right after work .
In fact, if I hadn't read your post before getting home, they'd be germing right about now.
I had wanted to plant them last night, but I was tired after the day's work and then transplanting the little ladies.
So, I still have 10 PPP seeds
Hey Setting Sun,
I'm in for your grow. Though I wish you would have expressed that you secretly work for some LED tech company and are a cross-dressing, covert spy for the Canadian government trying to entrap MMJ patients with lip gloss, dark glasses and a Pulp Fiction black wig. Your beautiful, sexy legs threw me off but now that you've been outed as a capitalist, subversive, carpetbagging, snake oil salesman I have new found respect for your growing skills. So tell me, isn't it difficult watering in stiletto heels?
Peace Bro!
I'm sure that's how I want them to look .
I've been playing mad scientist, so quite honestly, I'm surprised they look as good as they do.
I've used both R/O and tap water. The plants seem a bit happier with tap water, which is 145ppm. I haven't had to add any Cal-Mag with the nutes I've been using to this point.
Now, for the rest of the grow, I'm going to try to stick with just the Osmocote+ nutes and use tap water. I have Cal-Mag and other supplements if the need arises, but I want to see how the OC+ performs on its own.
OC+ applied once and tap water. If it works out, it just doesn't get much easier.
I started out running the PH at 6.0-6.2, but the plants didn't have really nice color until I dropped it to 5.7-5.9. I may run it back up a bit higher in bloom, as DocBud suggests.
thanks for your questions GMH!
Do you think this really applies with perlite in hempy buckets?I'm learning a ton of stuff about pH and soil culture, etc. The most interesting thing I've learned is that pH isn't really that important....but total Alkalinity is. In other words, the pH of the water can be adjusted.....but the overall acid buffering capacity of the water----total alkalinity----does it's own thing once in the medium. In other words, if the total alkalinity of your tap water is high....pHing it down to optimal levels will still result in raising the pH of the medium.
My tap water runs about 290 ppm mostly from dissolved limestone. I have to give a gallon of water a pretty good belt of pH down to lower it to 5.8 (a lot more than I need to use with distilled water). It would be nice to find an effective way to offset that alkalinity without having to resort to RO filters etc.Use of high alkalinity waters in container-grown crops result in significant increases in soil pH. These increases result not from water pH as is commonly thought, but from the accumulation of bicarbonates deposited from repeated applications of irrigation water. Deficiencies of iron, manganese, copper and zinc are common where high alkalinity waters are being used. Alkalinity, not water pH, causes soil pH increases. Low alkalinity, high pH waters in most cases will not be a problem.
So, a fast, easy way to reduce total alkalinity is the mix tap water with RO, and pH that mix. Using straight RO will often lead to deficiencies. The minerals in tap water are important for plants!