1080w LED Inferno

Dynamite seems to be an excellent CRF also. This year, I used OC+ in my flowerbed in front of the house, and the Dynamite All-Purpose 15-5-9 on the same variety of flowers in the backyard. The NPK for OC+ is 15-9-12.

Previously, I had fed my flowers with fish ferts and seaweed extract, and don't get me wrong, they were nice, but not as nice as this year.

The flowers in front had amazing vegetative growth with the OC+, with the biggest leaves by far I've ever seen on these plants. The leaves were literally twice the size of previous years. The flower production on the plants in front took a bit longer than usual, maybe a couple of weeks or so, and some of that "delay" was due to the flowers being covered by the giant leaves, so that it appeared that the flower/leaf ratio was low, but after a couple more weeks many of the initial giant leaves had dried and fallen, and the flowers are just beautiful. Lots of blooms with bright colors, and the plants in front in general are healthy as can be with just OC+ and tap water straight from the hose.

The plants in back got the purple All-Purpose Dynamite. They did not have an explosive vegetative phase like the OC+ plants in front, but had nice steady overall growth with smaller leaves. These plants bloomed about a week sooner than the plants in front, and it seemed like a greater number of flowers, but again, some of that may have been due to the smaller leaf size giving that impression. In any case, the flowerbed in back is beautiful this year also, with tons of colorful flowers, and just using the Dynamite and water straight from my hose.

The NPK on the purple Dynamite is close to 3-1-2, so should be good for cannabis, and I believe Dynamite's nute release is less affected by temps than OC+. The DM you're using should do real well also.


The OC+ is working great for me on my current grow, but my container temps have only been 70-75.

In any case, I apologize for all the off-topic talk about my flowerbeds and all, but since I used both ferts on the same plant, I thought I'd share how they did.

Hope the DM kicks them into hyperbloom ;)
 
I agree.....I don't think it would work too well in DWC.
Hempy, however, is Shallow Water Culture, and it works just fine in there!

Irish, I'm going to try a couple of mine with regular 14/14/14 OC...not the plus. I've already got a micronute complex. That way, I can test the NPK and see what's better.

However, from everything I've read, 3-1-2 is optimal, and OC plus comes closer to that. We shall see.
that sounds like a good NPK right their. how did you get a micro complex? maybe you can show me what to use?
Dynamite seems to be an excellent CRF also. This year, I used OC+ in my flowerbed in front of the house, and the Dynamite All-Purpose 15-5-9 on the same variety of flowers in the backyard. The NPK for OC+ is 15-9-12.

Previously, I had fed my flowers with fish ferts and seaweed extract, and don't get me wrong, they were nice, but not as nice as this year.

The flowers in front had amazing vegetative growth with the OC+, with the biggest leaves by far I've ever seen on these plants. The leaves were literally twice the size of previous years. The flower production on the plants in front took a bit longer than usual, maybe a couple of weeks or so, and some of that "delay" was due to the flowers being covered by the giant leaves, so that it appeared that the flower/leaf ratio was low, but after a couple more weeks many of the initial giant leaves had dried and fallen, and the flowers are just beautiful. Lots of blooms with bright colors, and the plants in front in general are healthy as can be with just OC+ and tap water straight from the hose.

The plants in back got the purple All-Purpose Dynamite. They did not have an explosive vegetative phase like the OC+ plants in front, but had nice steady overall growth with smaller leaves. These plants bloomed about a week sooner than the plants in front, and it seemed like a greater number of flowers, but again, some of that may have been due to the smaller leaf size giving that impression. In any case, the flowerbed in back is beautiful this year also, with tons of colorful flowers, and just using the Dynamite and water straight from my hose.

The NPK on the purple Dynamite is close to 3-1-2, so should be good for cannabis, and I believe Dynamite's nute release is less affected by temps than OC+. The DM you're using should do real well also.


The OC+ is working great for me on my current grow, but my container temps have only been 70-75.

In any case, I apologize for all the off-topic talk about my flowerbeds and all, but since I used both ferts on the same plant, I thought I'd share how they did.

Hope the DM kicks them into hyperbloom ;)

thanks for that info. the reason why i like the DM so much is because my temps the DM seems to be allot better on the realse so it works better in my conditions right now. i was thinking it was a trade off better veg or bloom. i will see on my next grow when i do it from the start with both. how do you guys get the 3-1-2 out of 15-9-12?
 
that sounds like a good NPK right their. how did you get a micro complex? maybe you can show me what to use?


thanks for that info. the reason why i like the DM so much is because my temps the DM seems to be allot better on the realse so it works better in my conditions right now. i was thinking it was a trade off better veg or bloom. i will see on my next grow when i do it from the start with both. how do you guys get the 3-1-2 out of 15-9-12?

I was not aware of DM's "all purpose" product. That comes closest to 3-1-2....closer than the OC+. I'm a gonna get me sum!

As far as 3-1-2, 15-5-10 is perfect. The DM that SS mentioned is 15-5-9....nearly perfect.

I wonder if the longer veg time due to the larger leaves is a good thing, growing from 12/12 the way I do.

Thanks for the info, SS!
 
I was wondering if anyone had tried Scott's "Rose and Bloom". Lowes has it and it's NPK is 12-4-8, so it would be a perfect 3-1-2. I'm curious as to what it's application rate would be.
 
I was not aware of DM's "all purpose" product. That comes closest to 3-1-2....closer than the OC+. I'm a gonna get me sum!

As far as 3-1-2, 15-5-10 is perfect. The DM that SS mentioned is 15-5-9....nearly perfect.

I wonder if the longer veg time due to the larger leaves is a good thing, growing from 12/12 the way I do.

Thanks for the info, SS!

i still dont get how you get 3-1-2, from something like 15-5-10?

Ive read allot of Fatmans post but still never seen how he got those ratios or seen plants grow by him. he actually uses a 3-1-4 ratio. i know he says he tested MJ tissues but yet theirs allot of erros on his part. maybe you can point me into some good info that 3-1-2 is best for MJ? i am very interested in this.
 
i still dont get how you get 3-1-2, from something like 15-5-10?

The three numbers are the percentages present in the mix. If you multiply each of the components of (3-1-2) x 5, you will get 15-5-10. Therefore the ratio of one nutrient to the other is the same, it's just that the overall fertilizer is 5 times as strong. If you took the amount specified for 1 gallon of 15-5-10 and mixed it with 5 gallons of water, you would be back to 3-1-2.
 
Irish, do you think there was any advantage using the silicate?
Was it worth it vs. the PH issues it can create?

Just wondering,
J.W.
 
The three numbers are the percentages present in the mix. If you multiply each of the components of (3-1-2) x 5, you will get 15-5-10. Therefore the ratio of one nutrient to the other is the same, it's just that the overall fertilizer is 5 times as strong. If you took the amount specified for 1 gallon of 15-5-10 and mixed it with 5 gallons of water, you would be back to 3-1-2.
thank you very much. +REPS
Irish, do you think there was any advantage using the silicate?
Was it worth it vs. the PH issues it can create?

Just wondering,
J.W.

yes i do think its worth it, when i stopped using it i notice a decrease in my plants health. now i think its worth it if you in hydro because their no silica, or when the conditions arnt as good. now i notice that it wanst mixing too good with the GH maxi it would keep getting cloudy and after setting in my res for a day or 2 it would make some foum floating on top of my res so i stopped using it. now when i mix it alone every thing is fine. but yes i will be using it threw my grows.
 
thank you very much. +REPS


yes i do think its worth it, when i stopped using it i notice a decrease in my plants health. now i think its worth it if you in hydro because their no silica, or when the conditions arnt as good. now i notice that it wanst mixing too good with the GH maxi it would keep getting cloudy and after setting in my res for a day or 2 it would make some foum floating on top of my res so i stopped using it. now when i mix it alone every thing is fine. but yes i will be using it threw my grows.

Excellent point about water not having it vs. soil.
Thanx,
J.W.
 
so let me get this right the red DM i am using NPK 13-13-13 is a 2.6-2.6-2.6 and the OC+ is a 3-1.8-2.4?

Irish — if you are diluting at a rate of 5 times whatever is on the label, then your math is right.

Now I have a question for anybody running either the 180 or 300 watt GLH fixtures. I have been toying with the idea of converting over an older, functional upright freezer as a grow cab with either (2) of the 180's or (1) 300 watt lights. In order to keep out any extra heat, I was thinking about running them through a hole in the top of the freezer (a "sun-roof) and arrange it so that the freezer interior will still be sealed for odor, CO2, cooling, etc, but the top of the light fixture would be exposed to outside air for cooling that wouldn't add to the heat load inside the freezer. My question is whether the fixtures allow any light leakage through the vents or the fans to the LED area. I am concerned about light getting into the freezer interior during the dark cycle and screwing up flowering. I have written Mike an email, but I'm sure it will take him a bit to get back to me. I'd appreciate anybody's input.
 
I was thinking about running them through a hole in the top of the freezer (a "sun-roof) and arrange it so that the freezer interior will still be sealed for odor, CO2, cooling, etc, but the top of the light fixture would be exposed to outside air for cooling that wouldn't add to the heat load inside the freezer. .

Believe it or not most of the heat from these units comes out from the glass below.. Your Idea is ok.. But a lot of heat will be still coming out of the LED unit inside the freezer.. So just be prepared for more heat inside the freezer.. Although the heat will still be on top of the freezer so it should be nice and easy to remove..

My question is whether the fixtures allow any light leakage through the vents or the fans to the LED area. I am concerned about light getting into the freezer interior during the dark cycle and screwing up flowering. I have written Mike an email, but I'm sure it will take him a bit to get back to me. I'd appreciate anybody's input.

AS long as you have a good seal were the light is sitting on top of the freezer you will be all good.. The top (sun roof) and the door will be the only place light could get in. Good seal on both and your good to go.. No light can come back through the LED unit, so no issue on that front..
 
Hey Irish! Glad you're back!

The OC+ has been a good performer for me. I switched from GH Floranova. Since my plants settled in with the OC+, they've been nothing but super healthy. I know the floranova's a good product, but for a new grower the OC+ just seemed ideal. The fact that you can't burn your plants with it (as long as temps don't get too crazy) was pretty compelling. Combined with hempy buckets which you can't over water, it makes up DocBud's Patented "Stoner-Proof" Growing Solution! (just 4 easy payments of $39.95 includes an official souvenir bucket with pre-drilled hole!) :)

The dynamite could be better for you in hempy given your heat situation.

:goodluck:
 
Alright guys i want to help us figure things out so i am will to put my yield and plants on the line to find witch one flowers the best? it cost some money up front, but either way i will still save in the long run from not buying GH anymore. Not too sure what i will do with the one that performs the least? maybe just call it a lost and give it to my folks for their veggie garden or something. but this should help allot of us out. i just picked up the purple bottle of the DM and i like its profile it has more cal in it them the OC+ witch is good for my led grows because i always get a Cal def.. my money is still on the red bottle of the DM with the NPK 13-13-13 but the one thing i dont like about that one is theirs no Cal in it. but the NPK seems to be a all around good one.

Ive been reading allot about this 3-2-1 profile on nutes so i got the closes i can find 15-5-9 witch is 3-2-1.8 i believe? so lets see if this theory is right.

now right off the bat i will say i am liking the DM better then the OC+ because it seems to have better nute realse is warmer and colder temps them the OC+. when its hot the OC+ will dump allot of nutes out where the DM will put out still around the ideal nutes in the warmer temps. I also like how the DM last for 9 months and the OC+ is only 6 months in ideal temps, the hotter the less the OC+ last. you also use less of the DM when feeding to ur plants.

the DM is also the winner of the Gulf Guardian Award, and makes things real nice and safe for our rivers because it wont leach out extra nutes only puts out what the plants need.

the only thing the OC+ has that the DM dosent is Zinc.

out of my 6 girls i will do 2 plants witch each fert for bloom and see what happens?

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Lovin it! I predict good results. I will be curious to see if you taste any difference. Or any other maintenance issues, like salt buildup or anything. I think it will be fine and easy. My only word of caution would be to supplement the P a little. And I would allow extra flushing at the end.

:thumb::goodjob::peacetwo:
 
Lovin it! I predict good results. I will be curious to see if you taste any difference. Or any other maintenance issues, like salt buildup or anything. I think it will be fine and easy. My only word of caution would be to supplement the P a little. And I would allow extra flushing at the end.

:thumb::goodjob::peacetwo:

i am curious about the taste ans smell at the end also.

from what ive been told and read you dont need to flush because theirs not extras put off only what the plant needs when it needs it.

now the P is a little low on the purple bottle but from what i read and what Doc was saying its ideal for plant with those ratios. so in theory the purple bottle should be very ideal for MJ plants in fact most plants. its as close to a 3-1-2 profile as ive seen. So if Doc and a few others are right it should outperform all the others.

i still think the red bottle is going to do better in flowering then the others but i will have to add Cal/Mag to it so that one bad thing.
 
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