1080w LED Inferno

Hey Irishboy how is your temp problem coming? I had to order another 4 in exhaust fan for my new Induction/plasma grow the little tent gets HOT. Broke down and turned the AC on today.

96F right now in the room. thats with the 2 lights running once i turn on the 3rd and the summer heat really kicks in them its gonna be some crazy times:)

it is what it is they either tuffen up of or die. then it will be a lesson learned on my part. as of now they look happy as hell.

root rot is what has me worried not heat stress.
 
i'll be 63 on monday the 14th...still dont know who that old broad is that lives in my mirror....L:peace:

63, you're just getting good! And the fact that you don't know who the old broad is in the mirror means that you're still young at heart and inside are the still girl you once were. Good weeds will make you stay youthful!Happy birthday Lavender!!!:cheertwo:
 
hey i was wondering if anyone has clone a clone and had no problems? Ive heard you will get genetic drift and the clone from a clone will not be as good or potent as the mom. any one have experience with this?

IB, I have cloned a clone to produce a fresh mother and noticed no variaiton in anything, others might have different positions on this but, and you know where this is going, everything is strain specific as we all know. Yours may be different but if I were you I wouldn't worry bout it. A single mother can be kept for a VERY long time... I have read 10 years but that's not my experience. .V.
 
Going to keep my fingers crossed I am little worried about that myself.I have purchased little swamps before that just put out humid warm air.I am hoping the gel packs that come with it will help along with improvments made on the filtration.Have a larger older swamp going right now and its about 75 degrees with 35 percent humidity.Outside its about 95.I just have my tent slightly open with fan blowing inside.Just on some hydro tomatoes to get some hydro experience.

:nicethread:

Your problem MIGHT be that 35% RH. I thought the swamp coolers got more effecient at 25% or even lower. Just a thought. .V.
 
96F right now in the room. thats with the 2 lights running once i turn on the 3rd and the summer heat really kicks in them its gonna be some crazy times:)

it is what it is they either tuffen up of or die. then it will be a lesson learned on my part. as of now they look happy as hell.

root rot is what has me worried not heat stress.

From the looks of your plants they are taking the heat real good. This is just a theory but my take on it is when they are smaller they might be more affected by the heat, but yours look fine and would only tolerate it better in time. Since your going drain to waste there prolly won't be any problem there either cause you are not recirculating the bad stuff back to your roots. I really think you'll be just fine Bro, mark my word. .V.
 
Wow, only left for a day and many posts. These might have been answered but I already clicked on the multi-quote buttons so here goes. And I feel like "talking.":grinjoint:

The silicate (from the Potassium Silicate solution) deposits into the tissues surrounding the xylem structures of the plant. Usually with strength comes brittleness so I think he is asking if when flexing the stems, do they have a higher tendency to break instead of bend.

Yeah, what he said. Not that you've pushed enough that they're structuraly equal to branches on a dead tree, but somewhat less flexibility - enough so that the training that you might have otherwise done in a day or two now takes three or four, say. I'm pretty sure I noticed that years back (it's hazy) and that I boosted (I forget, lol) to compensate; something in the flowering nutrients that I was giving them more than I normally would have in vegetative. But that was in scrogs that got a lot of training.

hey i was wondering if anyone has clone a clone and had no problems? Ive heard you will get genetic drift and the clone from a clone will not be as good or potent as the mom. any one have experience with this?

You can get genetic drift. It's not a simple case of yes/no. And even if you do... It's like flying in a small twin-engine plane over a farmer's 'stead and he's firing at you with his rifle because you're annoying his cows. His probability of missing per shot is fairly high. And even if he hits your plane, you're probably still going to make it to the airport. But give him enough shots and you might notice a degradation in the plane's performance. And there's always that remote chance that he'll get lucky and hit the most important component (in that case, the pilot's head). You can clone a clone of a clone of a clone. Whatever. It's not likely that you'll notice any detrimental affects from one generation to the next - but it is possible - but if you keep an early generation alive and take a cutting from it & compare it with IDK, the 17th generation, you would be more likely to see enough differences to tell the difference. If you don't mind keeping a mother alive for several years then do so. If it's not feasible to do that then keep cloning clones and stretch one into a temporary mother now and then to slow the generations from occuring. And it probably wouldn't hurt to self the plant, allow the seeds to fully mature, then dry them and throw them into cold storage to provide yourself an additional option.

we have an industrial strength ozone gen. in there

You keep a productive O3-generator IN your grow-room? The only true industrial model I ever used was in the workplace environment and it had so many warnings... I'm pretty sure that it caused some of the equipment in the room where we had it set up to use in the work deteriorated faster than its age alone would have accounted for. And the times I played with home-built models I found that they seemed to be 3x or more worse. So I ended up venting into another space and running the O3-generator there. I did not wish to take a chance on degrading trichomes (well... the terpines were my main concern, but...) and/or rubber hoses and such.

do you have any idea how i can tell if my already flowered plant that im re-vegging is actually back to 100% veg mode?

Her chest flattens out and she stops running slow enough so that the boys can catch her?;)

The plant should stop throwing out single-fingered leaves and go back to producing normal ones of however many fingers you originally saw (strain-dependent). Although some plants/strains might evidence the "unileaves" in small measure afterwards, IDK why. But even with those you'd have normal leaf-growth in the main when the plant is "100%" back to vegetative phase.

yes, me, over and over, and all ive gotten is more potent but one old time grower said that is because the plant is more mature? ...but some things ive read say just the opposite, but not my luck so far, im very happy with it, but some strains will just quit after a while...i got 4x's only out of my cal. oj, but part of that was my fault..i used to keep one plant only, and kept it alive for 5 yrs that way...it was still in great health and looking good last time i saw it....lavendar

The maturity argument holds weight for the first additional generation if you took your original cuttings when the mother was still immature, but after that... IDK. Getting to know your strain, the phenotype you're growing, and even the particular (set of) plant(s) can take a few grows and will often produce a more satisfactorily harvest either in potency or yield. So can having slightly better environmental circumstances.

And there's no law that says that generational drift HAS TO be a bad thing - after all, mutants and sports played a big part in the evolution of species. It's just generally far more likely to be bad.

96F right now in the room.

root rot is what has me worried not heat stress.

Keep enough DO in the root-zone (I'm still convinced that O2 has higher availability to plants when dissolved in a liquid than when fed directly to the roots as a gas, personally) and the bad microbial and near-microbial life out of the reservoir (etc.) and you'll find that the roots won't rot in conditions that will support life. Only thing is, the higher your reservoir temperatures get the less O2 will remain dissolved in the solution. The solution for your solution is supersaturation, of course. That will keep the roots healthy enough that they should even survive occasional O2-deprivation episodes due to power failures.
 
IB, I have cloned a clone to produce a fresh mother and noticed no variaiton in anything, others might have different positions on this but, and you know where this is going, everything is strain specific as we all know. Yours may be different but if I were you I wouldn't worry bout it. A single mother can be kept for a VERY long time... I have read 10 years but that's not my experience. .V.

Thank you

I third this statement...... Many many times......:cool:
thank you

From the looks of your plants they are taking the heat real good. This is just a theory but my take on it is when they are smaller they might be more affected by the heat, but yours look fine and would only tolerate it better in time. Since your going drain to waste there prolly won't be any problem there either cause you are not recirculating the bad stuff back to your roots. I really think you'll be just fine Bro, mark my word. .V.

its 97-98F* right now and they look great. now i do believe what ur saying because the smaller the roots system the less the plants can handle. 2 things that worry me is the flowers will be airy and lose.runny long buds. the worst is a harvest of pure shitty fluffy buds. I am hoping the less IR from these led lights will help.

One thing i wish i would have done for this grow was use Coco as a medium, because i was reading it helps prevent root rot.
 
Wow, only left for a day and many posts. These might have been answered but I already clicked on the multi-quote buttons so here goes. And I feel like "talking.":grinjoint:

thats how we roll on this thread.lol

Yeah, what he said. Not that you've pushed enough that they're structuraly equal to branches on a dead tree, but somewhat less flexibility - enough so that the training that you might have otherwise done in a day or two now takes three or four, say. I'm pretty sure I noticed that years back (it's hazy) and that I boosted (I forget, lol) to compensate; something in the flowering nutrients that I was giving them more than I normally would have in vegetative. But that was in scrogs that got a lot of training.

yes it would take longer to train ur plants if you decided to feed them the silica for a while before hand. it fattens them up real thick where you would end up pulling up ur roots before the stalk gave out. but its still a moist stem where its not like a dead tree and would snap. But for sure less flex and easier to train if not using it. i bet money these stalks will be huge by flowering.lol


You can get genetic drift. It's not a simple case of yes/no. And even if you do... It's like flying in a small twin-engine plane over a farmer's 'stead and he's firing at you with his rifle because you're annoying his cows. His probability of missing per shot is fairly high. And even if he hits your plane, you're probably still going to make it to the airport. But give him enough shots and you might notice a degradation in the plane's performance. And there's always that remote chance that he'll get lucky and hit the most important component (in that case, the pilot's head). You can clone a clone of a clone of a clone. Whatever. It's not likely that you'll notice any detrimental affects from one generation to the next - but it is possible - but if you keep an early generation alive and take a cutting from it & compare it with IDK, the 17th generation, you would be more likely to see enough differences to tell the difference. If you don't mind keeping a mother alive for several years then do so. If it's not feasible to do that then keep cloning clones and stretch one into a temporary mother now and then to slow the generations from occuring. And it probably wouldn't hurt to self the plant, allow the seeds to fully mature, then dry them and throw them into cold storage to provide yourself an additional option.

Nice way of breaking it down:bravo:

What i want to do is keep a mom clone alive for a few runs maybe a years worth then move on into another strain and do it all over. Right now i am just keeping it one strain to learn all i can about her so i can try to master her, then move on to another girl

I have a hard time getting seeds plus i dont like waiting to see if their Fem or male, even if you get fem seeds sometimes they are still males depending on the breeder the less often this happens but it still could, plus i do want to have to wait until she's ready to clone. a clone would be easier and faster for me.


The maturity argument holds weight for the first additional generation if you took your original cuttings when the mother was still immature, but after that... IDK. Getting to know your strain, the phenotype you're growing, and even the particular (set of) plant(s) can take a few grows and will often produce a more satisfactorily harvest either in potency or yield. So can having slightly better environmental circumstances.

And there's no law that says that generational drift HAS TO be a bad thing - after all, mutants and sports played a big part in the evolution of species. It's just generally far more likely to be bad.


very true


Keep enough DO in the root-zone (I'm still convinced that O2 has higher availability to plants when dissolved in a liquid than when fed directly to the roots as a gas, personally) and the bad microbial and near-microbial life out of the reservoir (etc.) and you'll find that the roots won't rot in conditions that will support life. Only thing is, the higher your reservoir temperatures get the less O2 will remain dissolved in the solution. The solution for your solution is supersaturation, of course. That will keep the roots healthy enough that they should even survive occasional O2-deprivation episodes due to power failures.[/QUOTE]

i was wondering if the microbes i feed my girls and help feed in my sunshine mix would help fight root problems. i was reading that silica will help fight against root problems also? but i think the Microbes from the flora blend i use should help and the carbs from the flora nectar should keep them feed. i always try to keep those guys happy as i can with all my grows. i dont know a whole lot of what they do but i know their good.lol
 
Random thought about root rot: the reservoir of water retained below the drain hole in your buckets is the area of greatest concern. If you're concerned about root issues you might consider drilling drain holes at the very bottom of the buckets, eliminating the reservoir and going to a fairly constant watering/feeding schedule. Your sunshine mix should retain moisture for a day or two so constant watering might not be needed, but I think you'd need to stay on top of it - especially with the heat.

Hydro growing in high heat - even passive hydro like you're doing - seems very risky. Eliminating stagnant water and replacing it with a fairly constant flow of fresh water seems like it would help. Cooling the water before it goes in to the buckets could help even more.

Again, just a thought... ;)
 
Random thought about root rot: the reservoir of water retained below the drain hole in your buckets is the area of greatest concern. If you're concerned about root issues you might consider drilling drain holes at the very bottom of the buckets, eliminating the reservoir and going to a fairly constant watering/feeding schedule. Your sunshine mix should retain moisture for a day or two so constant watering might not be needed, but I think you'd need to stay on top of it - especially with the heat.

Hydro growing in high heat - even passive hydro like you're doing - seems very risky. Eliminating stagnant water and replacing it with a fairly constant flow of fresh water seems like it would help. Cooling the water before it goes in to the buckets could help even more.

Again, just a thought... ;)

to be honest that wouldn't work IMO in my case because the bottom 4" is straight perlite. i am just gonna give a try and see what happens? this way i will know if i can run this system the next time summer comes around? if things dont work out ill just do what i have always done in the summer and just use regular pots with sunshine.
 
Random thought about root rot: the reservoir of water retained below the drain hole in your buckets is the area of greatest concern. If you're concerned about root issues you might consider drilling drain holes at the very bottom of the buckets, eliminating the reservoir and going to a fairly constant watering/feeding schedule. Your sunshine mix should retain moisture for a day or two so constant watering might not be needed, but I think you'd need to stay on top of it - especially with the heat.

Hydro growing in high heat - even passive hydro like you're doing - seems very risky. Eliminating stagnant water and replacing it with a fairly constant flow of fresh water seems like it would help. Cooling the water before it goes in to the buckets could help even more.

Again, just a thought... ;)

to be honest that wouldn't work IMO in my case because the bottom 4" is straight perlite.

I think I asked in the past and you stated that it wouldn't work with your setup, but I'm still confused on this: If you've got a non-draining area at the bottom of your pots and the medium in that area is 100% perlite (and it's "soup" from the liquid that it holds), why couldn't you stick a small(ish) airstone in the bottom of each pot? Is it just that you'd have to disturb the plants that are already in place, or am I missing something? I know that with a decent air pump you can tell that a 'stone is working even when you're holding it in your (dry) hand and if the bottom of your pots are anything but dry... Can you see where I'm going, lol? When I used to do the DWC thing (and incidentally, might at times have been one lazy SoB), I had at times allowed the reservoirs to go from ~10 gallons or more down to "damp roots in a puddle" (yeah, I know, bad huh?) and a few times the temperatures were somewhat akin to yours. I always figured the reason that the plants remained healthy - along with their roots - was that the airstones that were trapped under the mess of roots were constantly re-oxygenating the "puddles" under them. I know it sure wasn't the powerheads that were stuck to the sides of the reservoirs as they would have been high & dry by that time.

Then again, I didn't run ANY microbials in extreme heat conditions because when the mercury was skyrocketing I also added H2O2 every time I added anything to the reservoir (and sometimes I'd throw some into a couple ounces of water and toss it in as a booster). I can't say whether the H2O2 was necessary but I'm sure that the extra oxygen that was released as it broke down didn't hurt a bit.
 
I think I asked in the past and you stated that it wouldn't work with your setup, but I'm still confused on this: If you've got a non-draining area at the bottom of your pots and the medium in that area is 100% perlite (and it's "soup" from the liquid that it holds), why couldn't you stick a small(ish) airstone in the bottom of each pot? Is it just that you'd have to disturb the plants that are already in place, or am I missing something? I know that with a decent air pump you can tell that a 'stone is working even when you're holding it in your (dry) hand and if the bottom of your pots are anything but dry... Can you see where I'm going, lol? When I used to do the DWC thing (and incidentally, might at times have been one lazy SoB), I had at times allowed the reservoirs to go from ~10 gallons or more down to "damp roots in a puddle" (yeah, I know, bad huh?) and a few times the temperatures were somewhat akin to yours. I always figured the reason that the plants remained healthy - along with their roots - was that the airstones that were trapped under the mess of roots were constantly re-oxygenating the "puddles" under them. I know it sure wasn't the powerheads that were stuck to the sides of the reservoirs as they would have been high & dry by that time.

Then again, I didn't run ANY microbials in extreme heat conditions because when the mercury was skyrocketing I also added H2O2 every time I added anything to the reservoir (and sometimes I'd throw some into a couple ounces of water and toss it in as a booster). I can't say whether the H2O2 was necessary but I'm sure that the extra oxygen that was released as it broke down didn't hurt a bit.

if i was smart enough i would have thought of this before mixing my buckets but the bad part is 4" if perlite then sunshine and perlite on that and all different ratios from their up of sunshine and perlite.

i am afraid of messing with the roots since they already hit the res and are in the perlite where i would have to put the air stone. and i dont want to know and soil down into the res and make a soggy mess down their when i pull them up to drop the air stone in their.

i really am afraid of messing with the roots and doing more harm then good. next time i will add an air stone for sure

i hear if i add some H2O2 will fight root rot is this true? the hydro store said no i have to use some $$ stuff but thought maybe they were trying to get paid?lol.
 
H2O2 will kill a lot of simple organisms before it ever harms a plant but the times that I've used it for corrective measures (as opposed to maintenance type stuff) it was in situations where I could drain things and spray the roots, reservoir, 'stones, pump, etc. directly, then rinse, then "reset" and throw extra into the solution. Don't know just exactly how much it'd take in a setup like yours where you couldn't literally hold the plant down and tickle its feet (lol) with the stuff. I mean... You'd really want to be able to hit ALL the roots - otherwise I can't help but think that it'd be kind of like taking some bad potatoes out of the bin - but leaving one rotten one in there down at the bottom.

Hopefully someone can chime in who's had some experience with such a setup and give you some help with amounts, strengths, and best application methods to fully treat things if you need it. I know that 3% in a spray-bottle doesn't seem to bother the roots.

IDK, I better go for the evening, I can feel my intellect dribbling out of my ears as I type this. Maybe I'll be a little more coherent tomorrow.

Wishing you great growing, bro-in-spirit!
 
Wow, only left for a day and many posts. These might have been answered but I already clicked on the multi-quote buttons so here goes.

You keep a productive O3-generator IN your grow-room? The only true industrial model I ever used was in the workplace environment and it had so many warnings... I'm pretty sure that it caused some of the equipment in the room where we had it set up to use in the work deteriorated faster than its age alone would have accounted for. And the times I played with home-built models I found that they seemed to be 3x or more worse. So I ended up venting into another space and running the O3-generator there. I did not wish to take a chance on degrading trichomes (well... the terpines were my main concern, but...) and/or rubber hoses and such.

And there's no law that says that generational drift HAS TO be a bad thing - after all, mutants and sports played a big part in the evolution of species. It's just generally far more likely to be bad.

guess i should have phrased that better....it is outside of the bud rooms in a room in a house....not lived in....yes, it has warnings, we had to get it to kill the mold in another space...which it did...and is only set to come on 2 seconds every 5 minutes....and the on//off is right there...and the room in the house is vented out under the building, with an intake from outside to room, and this is outside of the b.rm...does that clear it up more....sorry....yes, what you say is true about them...alot of respect is involved...

yep, ive enjoyed the differences....
 
hey guys great thread and still more and more awesome comments!!!i had a really stupid thought today has anyone thought or heard of physically injecting the plant in the stem with nutes...i know completely off the wall question maybe i have to much time on my hands but if anyone has heard off it or any comment would be appreciated
 
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