1080w LED Inferno

Thank you Irish, I really appreciate your honest advice. I don't want to take up your thread, but I tried to send you a private message to ask your opinions on some products they won't let me until I have 50 posts. I'm a first time grower. Before I spend $8000.00 I was hoping to get an experienced growers advice. So can I ask on your thread? No matter what your answer is I appreciate your time, thank you.
 
Plead-the-5th said:
Thank you Irish, I really appreciate your honest advice. I don't want to take up your thread, but I tried to send you a private message to ask your opinions on some products they won't let me until I have 50 posts. I'm a first time grower. Before I spend $8000.00 I was hoping to get an experienced growers advice. So can I ask on your thread? No matter what your answer is I appreciate your time, thank you.
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ya feel free to ask away any time bro. i dont mind one bit, ill try to help the best i can
 
Thanks bro, here it goes Grolab 240 8x8x6'7'', 4x20 phat filter, 6x39 phat filter, two 4 inch vortex fans, one 6 inch vortex fan, uvonair jr 1000, ona gel, ona blocks, ona fans, three fan speed adjusters (no brand name?), Black & white poly or extreme blackout canvas? Nutradip continuous monitor (PPM/PH/Temp), one portable PH meter Hanna Ins., one portable PPM meter Hanna, EZ clone 30, active aqua reservoir, white botinacare table, active aqua 45 lt air pump & 160 gal water pump. GLH lights ?????????
 
i should be getting my second 180w in next week to be able to throw in my tent for the rest of flower. yay!!! 2 plants 2 lights.
my oc+ is pretty slow at starting to flower, compare to my sativa kali mist.
was your oc+ plants pretty slow at begin of flower or pretty quick??
 
Plead-the-5th said:
Thanks bro, here it goes Grolab 240 8x8x6'7'', 4x20 phat filter, 6x39 phat filter, two 4 inch vortex fans, one 6 inch vortex fan, uvonair jr 1000, ona gel, ona blocks, ona fans, three fan speed adjusters (no brand name?), Black & white poly or extreme blackout canvas? Nutradip continuous monitor (PPM/PH/Temp), one portable PH meter Hanna Ins., one portable PPM meter Hanna, EZ clone 30, active aqua reservoir, white botinacare table, active aqua 45 lt air pump & 160 gal water pump. GLH lights ?????????
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i cant say about all the stuff some i have never seen. but here it goes.

i have a grow lab tent. good tent.

i am about to have a phat filter soon, from what i have read its a great filter.

vortex fans are great from what i have read, but i like the Suncourt Inline Centrifugal Fan better, very quiet and less power used and good CFM.

the Ona gel is a waist on money IMO. all you need is a good filter. my friend bought one and did care for it too much..


the best Oscillating fan i have ever used is the EcoPlus 16" stand fan, all my others have broke on me but this ones has been running strong for a long time.

Black and white poly or extreme blackout canvas waist of money, only good for covering ur floor but not the walls. if you have a tent you need nothing. but if you do need something like that for whatever get the reflective stuff, cant remember the name but its at the hydro store and its pretty thick so wont rip on u.

allot of people seem to love the EZ cloner ive never used it though.

i have one of those flood tables and love it, but make sure to get the black one its cheaper.

never used the Hanna meters but heard their good, ive only used the Oakton meter witch works good also

resivors are allot of money at the Hydro stores, you can go to wall mart or lowes ect.. and find a nice big bucket or tote for dirt cheap. i paid $5 for my 18gal bucket at lowes and its a nice one. Rubber-maid totes are good also and it will save you allot of money.

Get all ur vent ducting at lowes or Homedepot, their allot cheaper and make sure to get the insulated stuff, very light proof and strong and it will dampen the noise big time.
 
staffy said:
i should be getting my second 180w in next week to be able to throw in my tent for the rest of flower. yay!!! 2 plants 2 lights.
my oc+ is pretty slow at starting to flower, compare to my sativa kali mist.
was your oc+ plants pretty slow at begin of flower or pretty quick??
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all of my plants were slow at flowering even when not using OC+ because of my temps. they actually started to flower after feeding them with the TRF ie. DM or OC+. different strains will flower at different times no matter what nutes. if their not the same strain then theirs no way to say its the OC+. you'll never know unless their were both the same strain from the same mom.
 
Thanks Irish, the extreme canvas is to seperate the tent into two rooms a 3'x8' vegatative and a 5'x8' flower room. Thank you for all your advice. good luck
 
IrishBoy said:
ya like everything their is a learning curve, heat is a issue for these TRF, mainly the OC+. now i am wondering what going to happen when things get real cold? the OC+ (on the right) is allot greener then the DM, but the DM had bigger more dense buds. maybe a mix of the 2 will do wonders?
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That sounds like a winner... I need to find some DM. :MoreNutes:

Do you know of a slow release PH down?

Do you think it would make sense to put pellets of garden lime in for cal & mag if using R/O?
 
Plead-the-5th said:
Thanks Irish, the extreme canvas is to seperate the tent into two rooms a 3'x8' vegatative and a 5'x8' flower room. Thank you for all your advice. good luck
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oh i see. wouldn't it be better to have just two tents just in case the light leeks out and messes with ur flowering girls?
OB-1Gardener said:
That sounds like a winner... I need to find some DM. :MoreNutes:

Do you know of a slow release PH down?

Do you think it would make sense to put pellets of garden lime in for cal & mag if using R/O?
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never heard of a slow R PH down, sorry bro.

lime is cool for cal but if you use too much you will raise ur mediums PH too high. lime is great for making ur medium neutral. Cal/mag plus would be better to add IMO. or some organics that have slow R Cal/mag. Jobes makes some organic ferts that are a lower NPK but have a ton of calmag and you feed 2 a month. their are many others also
 
I was reading about calcium solutions on the net and one was crush up egg shells. One of the crazier ideas was to pour milk on plants. These were all solutions for gardens. The milk idea is kinda of intriguing.

Watch the History Channel tonight too 9pm local time
 
Good Lord!
Those plants are going to get out at night and start stealing things from you! I'd keep a sharp eye out if small shiny things go missing. Keep an eye on the pantry too.

Wow!

BTW, who's the tall green one on the right side of the photo?
 
IrishBoy said:
IDK? maybe a few more weeks, things are still clear and a little cloudy not amber yet. seems the TRF are not forcing them to ripen but taking their time and just stacking buds and resin.
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If there's any way to inhibit the release of nitrogen from the TRF or otherwise interfere with the plants' uptake of it, that might do it. But I don't know of anything offhand that would do so (without screwing something else up).

OB-1Gardener said:
Do you know of a slow release PH down?
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Found through a Google search (IOW, YMMV and plants killed from following any advice gleaned are not my fault:)):

Random Google Result said:
KH as noted earlier is a stabilizer of pH (towards the alkaline side) whereas peat, some driftwood, Mango/Drift Wood , and dried almond leaves (Bio Lif ) will aid in lower stabilization (for really troublesome high pH aquariums, cutting pH/KH with blended RO water may be necessary, see below).
Please note that Peat, Driftwood, etc. mostly lower pH via a slow release of acids such as Tannins, and that if your carbonates are high (KH) your pH will remain high until a slow balance is reached (please read more about this in the Amazon River Water section). To reach an acid/carbonate balance more quickly, products such as SeaChem’s Acid Buffer can be used.

If using Bio Lif or Peat (I recommend Bio Lif), I suggest at least temporarily suspending the use of carbon, you can still use it, just not after initial use of Bio Lif or peat as Carbon removes many of the elements that these products add that make them work (much like how carbon can remove other essential trace elements and non-essential trace elements and toxins (carbon cannot tell the difference between good and bad). If the water gets too brown from these products, then slowly re-introduce the carbon back in.
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IDK if it correlates to cannabis growing.

penguin said:
I rely on the acidity of the peat to compensate for my water. When I first mix them up, I set the pH of my soil mixes to around 6.5. The sphagnum peat is acidic, and neutralizes the alkalinity of my water, like time-release pH down that lasts for about a year.
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TorturedSoul said:
If there's any way to inhibit the release of nitrogen from the TRF or otherwise interfere with the plants' uptake of it, that might do it. But I don't know of anything offhand that would do so (without screwing something else up)..
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I've certainly used Peat Moss in the garden and to grow cannabis, and I remember the acid warning... so that makes perfect sense.

Any reason not to use peat in a hempy?
 
I'm going to try OC+ with Mater Magic, since I can't find any DM red or purple here and I can't afford to pay 36.00 in shipping for 20 in product. I'm hoping, because the temps are up a little in my closet, that the oc+ will do great and the mater magic should cause everything to blow up, from what I've read about what it does for tomatoes, etc.

Sorry, didn't mean to get off-topic, was reading some previous entries about oc+/dm combo
 
OB-1Gardener said:
I've certainly used Peat Moss in the garden and to grow cannabis, and I remember the acid warning... so that makes perfect sense.

Any reason not to use peat in a hempy?
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<Originally Posted by penguin
I rely on the acidity of the peat to compensate for my water. When I first mix them up, I set the pH of my soil mixes to around 6.5. The sphagnum peat is acidic, and neutralizes the alkalinity of my water, like time-release pH down that lasts for about a year.>

Sounds like it's very worth checking out, especially for my high TA water.

Thanks TS.

:peace:
 
Setting Sun said:
I think I'd go with a complete peat-based soil if I did that, except at the bottom of the bucket, where it would get too soggy.

I guess coco-based soils wouldn't provide the same buffering benefit? Does a soil like Roots Organic go acidic over time like peat-based soils?
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IDK about coco - I think it's more stable than peat, so it wouldn't degrade to an acid. Most likely best if you are trying to keep things stable in a neutral fashion.

I'm hoping peat would reach a lower stability point - maybe I should just start a bucket and test the run-off before planting.
 
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