1080w LED Inferno

I collect rock posters so its a community like this and we help each other out to get posters, so this is the same thing, But also being I'm new here, its like who is this dude LOL. And so I want to give something back as I pick your brain for wisdom LOL

Did you mix the DM in the soil before you transplanted the plants to the big pots or did you just mix the DM in the soil in the big pots ?
 
I collect rock posters so its a community like this and we help each other out to get posters, so this is the same thing, But also being I'm new here, its like who is this dude LOL. And so I want to give something back as I pick your brain for wisdom LOL

Did you mix the DM in the soil before you transplanted the plants to the big pots or did you just mix the DM in the soil in the big pots ?

it has nothing to do with you being new, i dont give out info even to the ones ive know on here for a long time.. shit only 1 of my friends knows i grow.. i keep things on the down low big time even though i am 100% legal.. its my golden rule.. so its nothing against you.. and i do appreciate the offer. Thanks!

on my plants i just toped dressed them with the DM because i was already in flowering when i stared to add them, mixing them in the soil would be the best way to go about it. not too sure on how much to add the the smaller pots? i dont transplant, i keep my girls in one pot the whole time. if it were me i would add 1/2 to the smaller one then add the rest to the bigger pot when its time to transplant. theirs a guy on here named Setting Sun and he would be able to help you with this as he has trans planted.
 
it has nothing to do with you being new, i dont give out info even to the ones ive know on here for a long time.. shit only 1 of my friends knows i grow.. i keep things on the down low big time even though i am 100% legal.. its my golden rule.. so its nothing against you.. and i do appreciate the offer. Thanks!

I only have 1 buddy that knows about my small garden too. It's for the best.

You guys here at 420mag are the only ones who know all about my grow and I like it that way. No offense, but people in general aren't very trustworthy. I'm not singling anyone out, just a generalization. :peace:
 
I'm new here, its like who is this dude LOL. And so I want to give something back as I pick your brain for wisdom
We "pay forward", the gifts of knowlege we've recieved.
No quid pro quo, our main goal is universal human benefit with cannabis.
The return comes through the back door, unexpectedly
i dont give out info even to the ones ive know on here for a long time.. shit
:rofl: shit, stop! :rofl:
 
Hey Irish! Those girls are looking amazing! Seems like they needed to find a situation where they knew they'd be able to flower successfully. They had to be expending a lot of energy just dealing with the high temps. Maybe the DM provided just what was needed to get'm over that bump. At least, if I was a plant, that's how I'd do it. RoorRip

Right there with you on the down-low IrishBoy. A grand total of one person knows of my garden. I've got a few friends who I would love to show it off to, but people say things they shouldn't all the time (I certainly do!) and, unfortunately, bad shit can happen if the wrong person hears about it.

Thank you again for sharing that curing info!

Rock On Bro!
:cheertwo::cheertwo:
 
wow thats allot.. to be honest bro i would rather stay on the Down Low and not give out shipping info and stuff like that.. but thanks allot anyways its really cool for the offer.

I am gonna go down to HD today and see what i can find.


IrishBoy i applaud you on sticking with the growers golden rule of privacy, great job bro!

kind regards,
naphtali
 
I only have 1 buddy that knows about my small garden too. It's for the best.

You guys here at 420mag are the only ones who know all about my grow and I like it that way. No offense, but people in general aren't very trustworthy. I'm not singling anyone out, just a generalization. :peace:
:amen:

We "pay forward", the gifts of knowlege we've recieved.
No quid pro quo, our main goal is universal human benefit with cannabis.
The return comes through the back door, unexpectedly

:rofl: shit, stop! :rofl:
:)

Hey Irish! Those girls are looking amazing! Seems like they needed to find a situation where they knew they'd be able to flower successfully. They had to be expending a lot of energy just dealing with the high temps. Maybe the DM provided just what was needed to get'm over that bump. At least, if I was a plant, that's how I'd do it. RoorRip

Right there with you on the down-low IrishBoy. A grand total of one person knows of my garden. I've got a few friends who I would love to show it off to, but people say things they shouldn't all the time (I certainly do!) and, unfortunately, bad shit can happen if the wrong person hears about it.

Thank you again for sharing that curing info!

Rock On Bro!
:cheertwo::cheertwo:

ya thats what i was thinking, they were stressing big time from the hot heat and also the spider mites chewing on them, i had to just step back and think about things? after seeing all the salts residue the GH Maxi left in my res it was clean what was happening in my Hempy Bucket res.

ya bro i only have 1 person that knows i grow and that person has been my friend since i was a little kid, and he knows how to keep his moth shut.. he also is a big help when it come to trimming buds for 10+ hours.

I had a buddy that grow on a large scale (I never told him about me) but he was the type that liked to brag to everyone about his grows, next thing you know theirs smoke grenades going threw the window and the door getting kicked in.. thats the last ive seen him.. bet he is wishing he would have kept it on the Down Low now.:oops::bitingnails:
 
Heres some new pics to show how frosty they are getting, every day their just frosting up more and more, they are gonna be some killer dank. I also took some pics of a soda can to so you guys the size at this stage. i would say i am a little before the 1/2 point threw flowering i would say. to be honest i would have to say over all the Red bottle of DM is doing the best, but the purple is doing pretty damn good also, but the red is doing better out of both plants. these buds are rock hard solid, i am truly amazed..

I JUST CHECKED AND ITS BEEN AROUND 35 DAYS OF FLOWERING I BELIEVE SINCE I SWITCHED TO THE TRF AND FLOWERING KICKED IN. THIS STRAIN SHOULD TAKE AROUND 75 DAYS TO FINISH GOING BY MY OTHER GROWS WITH THIS STRAIN.
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awesome pics, those ladies are dressing up fine.
 
Nice job Irish! Is it me, or do those DM-fed plants look a little better than the others? You've certainly had to contend with a number of issues on this grow. Though with temps down now the OC+ are starting to catch up...

All in all, with selective breeding taking place over the past several decades, we've been able to produce plants that seem to do well enough in 12/12 overall...

...and, pure sativas aside, it's worth noting that away from the equator, we're lucky to get a good 8-9 hrs of sunlight out of the day in some areas, even before the start of winter - leading up to harvest time. I used to work up closer to Canada, and some days, I'd leave home when it was still dark (between 7-8), and get back after dusk, too - not much later than 5pm. (though most days my job required longer hours..management=more work within a corporation)

(In all short-day plants, there's a certain capacity to still flower in increasing days/decreased nights, albeit at a lower calyx-to-leaf ratio - until eventually flowering ceases altogether and plants go back into purely vegetative mode. So a 10/14 or even 8/16 cycle can end up promoting more flowering overall in certain strains/phenos, even in reduced daylight.)

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By request, here's a re-post of some Info on CRFs from SS' thread (minus the 'Can o' Whoop Ass'): :)

As you know, Nutricote and Dynamite are the same thing. Nutricote's been used for a few decades by the large agricultural interests. Except: Florikan figured that by re-branding it, they could get folks to pay $7-8 for 2lbs instead of $52 for 80lbs - and you don't have to have minimum order quantities of 5-6 bags just to get them to deliver. Not everyone's got an orchard...the new marketing seems to be working, too.
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Folks might find this interesting:

Influence of Temperature and Time on Nutrient Release Patterns of Osmocote Plus™, Nutricote™, and Polyon™ Controlled-Release Fertilizers (PDF)

(Two experiments: 1) CRF's suspended in water at 40C (104F) for several weeks; and 2) Impact of Columnar Leaching in short-term diurnal temperature fluctuations (i.e. 'night' and 'day')

You're gonna want to read that one for yourselves, guys. It pertains to YOU! (Yes, I'm makin' ya do some work...)
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Also:

Effects of temperature on nutrient release from slow-release fertilizers:

At 21°C the rate of release was significantly different than the other two temperatures...Except for Osmocote® and Duna, which released 30–40% of the applied N as mineral-N within six weeks...

(go read the rest)

and:

OSMOCOTE Notes:

WARNINGS

Soil mixtures containing Osmocote should not be stored longer than 7-10 days depending on temperatures without leaching prior to use. Osmocote should be applied after steam sterilising.
Avoid the risk of fertiliser burn in hot weather by maintaining pot moisture levels.
Do not dibble red (3-4 months) products or Osmocote Nursery Mix.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT OSMOCOTE FORMULATION

To ensure economical and accurate application of Scotts controlled release fertiliser, individual products are labelled according to NPK analysis and standard longevity. This standard release time is based upon an average soil temperature of 21°C. Warmer temperatures will shorten, while cooler temperatures will lengthen the stated longevity. In these circumstances you may need to compensate by choosing an Osmocote formulation with either a shorter or longer standard longevity.

Sounds consistent with what Irish was seeing. Water 'em and they perk back up - water more often (but less each time instead of 'binge drinking'), and they seem happier.

I'm sure the same rules re: concentration apply here as they do with a hydro res: go from a 6 gal full res down to ~1-2 gal, and you'll start seeing toxicity/salt issues. Looks like ya need to keep the medium moist - especially if you're applying all the CRF to the pots at the start of the season.
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Orchids are a bit finicky sometimes, too; to wit, these folks say within:

The Orchid Fertilizer Bible:

The backbone of our nutritional program is Nutricote Total 13-13-13 with minors, 6 month formula. Never heard of it? It's sold as Dynamite at Home Depot. The one for orchids is in the red canister. We, and many other growers, have used this successfully for years with excellent results.

Nutricote or Dynamite is the very best timed-release fertilizer because the nutrients are gradually and consistently made available to the orchids. Other "slow release" fertilizers can dump more salts with increased temperatures and water. This dumping results in severe root and leaf damage. Nutricote or Dynamite will not cause this problem if you follow label directions.

Smaller doses on a regular basis produce more consistent growth and healthier plants.

Smaller meals instead of one big one, huh? Works for me. Takes away a bit from the 'just add water' simplicity, but if it's for a good cause - might be worth doing a little bit o' actual work to grow these plants, eh?
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Some comments from users of OC/DC (warmer climate users, mostly) over on Gardensweb; can't link to them directly from here of course:

"I personally dont recommend osmocote due to its release action. I recommend Dynamite/Nutricote. The difference is that Osmocote is temperature release and Dynamite/Nutricote is chemical release. The difference is that Osmocote will just sit there no matter how much you water it if the temperature is cool, once the temperature is above 80 F it starts to slowly release. Although if the temperatures get 90 or above, it all disperses at once, over fertilizing your plants and then there is no more left to fertilize later on.

However, Dynamite/Nutricote is a chemical release fertilizer. What that does is every time there is water and moisture that is surrounding the fertilizer capsule, it slowly releases into the soil.

But if you only have Osmocote a balanced fert would be my bet."
-----

"Dynamite is actually a commercial product that is called Nutricote. The benefit to it is that it doesn't release nutrients until the soil temperature is 70 degrees or over, so it's not just washed out of the soil in cooler weather. I've used it for years, and quite prefer it to Osmocote."

"Nutricote IS better because it releases by temperature where Osmocote, works through Osmosis and can release too much fertilizer at one time when we have 4 inch rains and is more inconsistant for us in the rainy Florida times."

"When I belonged to the Orchid Society, they used to say that the Nutricote/Dynamite fertilizer is better because the Osmacote capsules explode after a while which releases too much fertilizer to delicate plants. That's why I have switched. I prefer the balanced formulation for most plants and I use the high nitrogen formulation for foliage plants only."

"I also use Dynamite...they do make a dynamite slow release specifically for Citrus and Palms, couldn't find it in my area, so I called Florikan Co. who makes Dynamite and was told they didn't sell it here, but Lowe's carries it, in Lowe's private brand(Garden Club Select), Florikan assures me it is the identical product...I purchased it from Lowe's and posted the picture so you know what to look for if you are interested, its under $7, at my lowe's. If you look at the bottom of the container you will see "Florikan"."
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Lowe's carries it in their stores, but previously did not list it on their website; now they do:

Lowe's Garden Club Select (4 Formulations)

GCS_Florikan_Nutricote.jpg

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More info about greater release of OC ferts in high temps, esp. Nitrogen:

Release of nitrogen from two controlled release fertilizers (Osmocote Plus and Osmocote Exact)

From samples taken during the cultivation period the release of ammonium and nitrate was calculated as the difference between initial and final amount of ammonium and nitrate. Release of ammonium from the controlled release fertilizers was much faster than the release of nitrate in both fertilizers. The release of total nitrogen (ammonium and nitrate) from Osmocote Plus ® could be related to the sum of air temperature calculated from the time of transplanting, independently of growing period and cultivars.

That seems to reiterate/reinforce some of the above comments from people here.
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Now, all that really tells me at this time is that if you're:

1) Growing in a Controlled, Conditioned (HVAC) Environment (i.e. Living Spaces):

* You have a wider range of options with regards to which CRFs/TRFs to use, when (how often), and at what time of the year (temperature/seasonal)

2) If you're Growing in an Unconditioned Area (Non-Living Spaces) (crawlspace, garages, unfinished basements, attics, sheds, etc.):

* You want to take into account overall plant growth factors (Q-10, etc.) as well as nutrient release factors - which you should be doing anyway.

Same applies whether you're using LEDs vs HIDs, and all the rest. Don't blame the preparation (or lack of) or necessity for using a particular growspace for the results you get. Everyone works within their own budget, security concerns, and living arrangements. We all make do with what we've got.

And, good information backed by personal experience is the best foundation from which to make any decision.

----

I've usually had the luxury of growing in conditioned air spaces myself when indoors, so I'd leave my options open if using CRFs in the future. Plenty of folks (esp. in temperate climates) over the years have been using various formulations of OC in their gardens with great results.

Got kids, or antsy spouses, or nosy neighbors/landlords and draconian state laws?...then you also have fewer options, and your considerations will have to change accordingly.

Everyone's goal should be to grow in as conditioned and controllable a space as we possibly can (indoors, that is - legislatively, we want to do away with the necessity, of course) - if you have one, than kudos to you! Hard work, knowledge - and a little capital expenditure - will always pay off for you in the end...

I think Sun noted that mixing the CRFs into the medium also provides better nute delivery overall - and where temps are controllable (and/or the CRF used is less temp reactive), I tend to agree. Perhaps there's a good middle ground between top-dressing and intra/medial substrate delivery.

Not sure about the other Lowe's formulations, but I believe the all-purpose one is also 13-13-13, like red DM. Have to go read the back of the bottle...
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Hell yeah them girls been exercising...:)

I could watch the girls exercise for hours! :)

(ok, maybe that sounded a little creepy...) :yikes:
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...Ive read allot of that stuff on some orchard sites, their packed with info on DM, this was the main reason why i chose to use this on my grow, because i new the temps were gonna be high and the DM had the temp issue worked out...

Looks like all that research you did paid off. You considered the higher temps might be a problem this summer, and took steps accordingly. Good planning and proper preparation is 90% of success. Kudos to you! :thumb:

:welldone:

-TL
 
I think Sun noted that mixing the CRFs into the medium also provides better nute delivery overall - and where temps are controllable (and/or the CRF used is less temp reactive), I tend to agree. Perhaps there's a good middle ground between top-dressing and intra/medial substrate delivery.

One middle-ground solution is to poke some deep holes into the medium with something like a sharpened 1/2" dowel and sprinkle the prills down in there. It doesn't incorporate them evenly into the mix, which seems to give the best results, but it does get them down into more stable temps and moisture levels. That method is working very well for a couple of mother plants that I wanted to use CRF's on.

Not sure about the other Lowe's formulations, but I believe the all-purpose one is also 13-13-13, like red DM. Have to go read the back of the bottle...
--------

That seems like it would be a good one, I'll check it out.

I've read several articles stating that a 3-1-2 NPK ratio is optimal in general for most plants, and that analysis of foliage typically shows that NPK is stored in plant tissue in that approximate ratio. I'd have to look for the cites, but I've read that in more than one place.

That's why I'm currently using the Dynamite purple, which is 15-5-9. My thinking on that, which is very open to learning and change, is that I'd rather have an optimal NPK ratio (generally speaking) and be less concerned over the micros, since I can compensate for that easily with supplements versus having to fix NPK issues.


I could watch the girls exercise for hours! :)

(ok, maybe that sounded a little creepy...) :yikes:
----


women's gymnastics, my favorite Olympic event ;)
 
Incredible!! Looks frigging awesome, irishboy!! Keep up the good work!!
thanks

awesome pics, those ladies are dressing up fine.
yup getting dressed up for the runway

Hell yeah them girls been exercising...:)
na their just sitting around and eating tons of food and carbs getting fat all day. just lazy fat ass girls.lol. these are the only girls of mine i dont want to exercise and that i dont care if their hairy.lol




Nice job Irish! Is it me, or do those DM-fed plants look a little better than the others? You've certainly had to contend with a number of issues on this grow. Though with temps down now the OC+ are starting to catch up...
ia the DM plants are doing allot better over all, the Red bottle is doing the best, then the purple bottle is right behind with the OC+ in last. Now the OC+ is starting to do better when the temps are in the 80's for a few days.. but in my condition's i think the DM is a better choice for me. the Red bottle kicks ass but it just doent have the Cal in it, but ive been watering with just tap water and no Cal def at all, but since i am going coco next grow i need something with more cal in it so the purple bottle will be good.

All in all, with selective breeding taking place over the past several decades, we've been able to produce plants that seem to do well enough in 12/12 overall...

...and, pure sativas aside, it's worth noting that away from the equator, we're lucky to get a good 8-9 hrs of sunlight out of the day in some areas, even before the start of winter - leading up to harvest time. I used to work up closer to Canada, and some days, I'd leave home when it was still dark (between 7-8), and get back after dusk, too - not much later than 5pm. (though most days my job required longer hours..management=more work within a corporation)

(In all short-day plants, there's a certain capacity to still flower in increasing days/decreased nights, albeit at a lower calyx-to-leaf ratio - until eventually flowering ceases altogether and plants go back into purely vegetative mode. So a 10/14 or even 8/16 cycle can end up promoting more flowering overall in certain strains/phenos, even in reduced daylight.)
great post. I guess its something you have to just play around with, 12/12 is a great starting point and you can adjust the light to how ur plants are reacting. Ive flowered this strain lots of time 12/12 but doesnt mean it wasn't a different mom the cutting was from. i am still not too sure if it was just the GH maxi nutes or the time, but all i know is their doing great so i am letting them be.

------

I think Sun noted that mixing the CRFs into the medium also provides better nute delivery overall - and where temps are controllable (and/or the CRF used is less temp reactive), I tend to agree. Perhaps there's a good middle ground between top-dressing and intra/medial substrate delivery.
i think he is right, and you could poke holes and bury them that way.

Not sure about the other Lowe's formulations, but I believe the all-purpose one is also 13-13-13, like red DM. Have to go read the back of the bottle...
Ill look into them, i only seen the NPK on the one bottle, but if one is a 13-13-13 and has Cal in it ill on that like fly's on shit. i think the 13-13-13 is a well balanced NPK and my plants love it. ill check them out and see what it looks like. that 12-3-13 might be pretty good also.
--------



I could watch the girls exercise for hours! :)

(ok, maybe that sounded a little creepy...) :yikes:
----
things only get weird if you make it weird :drool:


Looks like all that research you did paid off. You considered the higher temps might be a problem this summer, and took steps accordingly. Good planning and proper preparation is 90% of success. Kudos to you! :thumb:

:welldone:

-TL
[/QUOTE]
Thats why i chose the DM 1st because i read all about the temp release.

Your girls are looking sexy Irish, could you part with one just for the day(I swear I will bring her back before midnight). :laughtwo:
ya but i actually want my plants back with buds still on them, not just branches with leaves:blunt::)
One middle-ground solution is to poke some deep holes into the medium with something like a sharpened 1/2" dowel and sprinkle the prills down in there. It doesn't incorporate them evenly into the mix, which seems to give the best results, but it does get them down into more stable temps and moisture levels. That method is working very well for a couple of mother plants that I wanted to use CRF's on.

--------

That seems like it would be a good one, I'll check it out.

I've read several articles stating that a 3-1-2 NPK ratio is optimal in general for most plants, and that analysis of foliage typically shows that NPK is stored in plant tissue in that approximate ratio. I'd have to look for the cites, but I've read that in more than one place.

That's why I'm currently using the Dynamite purple, which is 15-5-9. My thinking on that, which is very open to learning and change, is that I'd rather have an optimal NPK ratio (generally speaking) and be less concerned over the micros, since I can compensate for that easily with supplements versus having to fix NPK issues.


----


women's gymnastics, my favorite Olympic event ;)

ya ive read the same thing 3-1-2 is a good NPK, and a good area code.lol well some parts:)

Ill check on the ones at lowes and share what i find.
 
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