Yield?

Yes true but you can pump in extra C02 , have hydro, all controlled. I wish I had the cash/space

A web-search for "outdoor hydroponic garden" gives lots of results. Realistically, you'll need a large reservoir. 30-gallon trash can at minimum (IMHO), and you'd probably be wishing you'd gone larger before harvest day.

Lots of stuff can put the whammy on outdoors, but you'll never see a 10 pound plant indoors

It has been years, but I once read an article about a bust in a region where the penalties were directly tied to plant count. I don't remember for sure, but think it might have been somewhere in Australia. Anyway, it was a single-plant grow with lots of HIDs above and around it; might have been 10kW worth. I thought at the time of reading that it might easily have been a ten-pounder if it had been allowed to continue to harvest. It was in an indoor swimming pool in an abandoned hotel or resort, or possibly some kind of "rich person's house." There was a photo that showed the plant still in place with people walking around outside (and above) the pool, and the plant made them look like little dwarves by comparison. Think they might have gotten caught by stealing electricity :rolleyes: .
 
Hey Bean! My ears were burnin. I'm honored you mentioned me thanks
Omg they’re beautiful
Check this out.

If you're growing from seed you can have the best of everything and still wind up with small yields if your genetics aren't right. Even then it will take something Jorge Cervantes calls a " super seed" to get unusually large weights. You just need to make sure the environment, lights, and all the little stuff is dialed in to give the plant what it needs so it can do its thing.

You need to be ready to grow big plants. If you run out of room your plant will suffer. A solid knowledge of super cropping is important. Yoyos for the last few weeks is a good idea. Less nutrients is always better than more. You can completely shutdown flower if your pH gets out of hand or you simply overload you P-K at the end. Watch your pH even in soil. While its popular to say a properly manufactured soil will take care pH all by itself it really only works well pushing slightly acidic conditions back toward a higher number.

I was having a conversation with someone the other day who stated a nutrient solution with Silica that has a pH of 11 is OK to add to soil. PH is a logarithmic scale. So a pH of 6 is 10 times stronger than 5. 7 is 100 times stronger, 8 is 1000 times stronger, 11 is 1,000,000 times stronger than 5 on the pH scale. Its the same as ammonia... he believes the soil can fix that... and fix it faster than it destroys the root system please be aware of what you're adding to your plants, and learn how to adjust the pH before adding it if needed. If your nutrient pH is 7 or 8 lime will be fine to sort out the pH. Dolomite lime is a wonderful thing, but it can't easily fix such huge issues. Silica is probably the only additive that would cause a pH of 11, and even then only a couple potassium based products you shouldnt use anyway... but if you never check your pH you would never know as you fed your plant a caustic solution every week... know what youre giving your plants. Sorry for the rant. This situation is just so ridiculous.

Grow in RDWC hydro. Its widely thought of as the most productive grow method. Everyone has their own opinion on this of course. Ive grown plants over a pound more than once in RDWC. I believe this method is the easiest way to see the plants potential as soon as possible.

Use Silica. Don't bother with any Potassium based products. Only use products derived from monosilicic acid. The Potassium Silicate molecule is a chain and basically doesn't fit where it needs to in the plant. Monosilicic acid is a single molecule and goes right in. Theres a ton more to this, i can elaborate if you guys have questions. Silica is the coolest element we use in my opinion. Its not a macro nutrient, but it does so many things sone say its much more than a micro nute. If you dont know about Silica its worth your time to read about it. Again, if you have questions...

Genetics... you aren't gonna grow a 2 pound Grinspoon plant. Its just not in its DNA. Strains like Northern Lights, Big Bud, Industrial, Moby Dick all have the meat and potatoes to grow big ass colas. If you vegged for 2 months, you nutrients are right, your using Silica, your hydro rig is right and you have plenty of air in the water, your environment is good, and you have the correct genetics with a seed that has a cape with a big S on it, its easy to go over a pound.

My last big plant did 26oz, 737gm if I did my math right. The strain was Wembley from Pyramid seeds, its a sister to King Tut. I had 5 plants and got about 50oz total. The strain clearly had the capacity to grow big, but one seed had the "S" was swinging from the fences from day one. When the branches reached 62 inches i got really worried, but it worked out.

This is an example of how seeds can can suck... in one 17 gallon pot I have a plant that did 26oz. Right next to it (same pot) the plant never found second gear and only did 2oz. No nutrient, light, PGR, animal sacrifice will ever change the fact the little plant will always be a little plant.

The big plant grew really ugly. Huge buds, but just a lanky beast. It kinda took the fun out of it for me. And it didn't look like 26oz. Here are some pictures of that plant and the rest from that season. You will see a smaller plant in a smaller room. Its a wembley in soil. It did 10oz














 
Can a indoor plant really yield 400-600g per grow?

Morning guys, the OP’s question was about yield indoors but worded it as if it was a single plant but I believe he is asking about breeder quoted yields “per m2” that they all give. Yes a single plant can yield that indoors as has been discussed, but those numbers posted by breeders, is rarely for one plant but often yields for Sea of Green or multiple plant SCROGs with a 16 to 20 week turn-around...because that is how commercial growers typically operate. Those numbers are old school and usually are considered being under 1000w HPS because that was the standard until about 10yrs ago when newer lighting tech like LEDs and CMH came on the market.

8-10wks veg and 8-10wk flower.

With LEDs and CMH, those yields can now be obtained with 50-60% of the power usage.

Just some extra to add to the convo :)
 
Those numbers are old school and usually are considered being under 1000w HPS

600-watt HPS, I think. 92.9 watts per square foot (1Kw per m2) of HID lighting would probably be considered to be "a bit much," even with CO2. A 1,000-watt HPS in a 1.2 m2 space is doable, although most would probably use it for a 16 ft2 space (approximately 1.49 m2). Or even a 25 ft.2 space, if they're growing a strain that doesn't require as much light-energy (indica) or can run their light ≥18 hours/day during the flowering phase (autoflower strain).
 
It's not showing up on my end but as long as you can see it. Shes 7 weeks in flower tomorrow I'm guessing another 3 wks to month. Fucking massive 7 footer. I'm really impressed. Hoping to get at least 12 zips dried n cured. But as you know to get big numbers you've got yo let her veg!
pic didn't show
 
Making love to an ice cream sandwich huh? Nice.... been there, done that, got the t-shirt!

I have always used DE and fine river sand as sources for silica and they are well cooked into my soils, plus I top dress with both of theses plus a bevy of other concoctions. Anywho I had also read about the silica elements not being readily available and was going down the monosilicic acid rabbit hole when I found Stout MSA on the Zon about $30 per quart or 69 for gallon. Anyone tried their version? Does this sound like the right stuff?

hey @Stltoed please read this one
 
I'm gonna go back to my closet to sulk

im currently using this with fox farm big bloom grow big and extra strenght fert
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail (1).jpg
    thumbnail (1).jpg
    469.8 KB · Views: 20
Yields you have to consider:

grow space floor size
total time plants in soil
dry weight trimmed

If you wanna get special you could also consider your watts at the wall to give you a gm/watt then consider your time to get that.

Typically you should start to think about grams dry by footprint grown in. Then throw in you watts and time.

There's no way to really do yields per anything without using time.

I could grow an equatorial sativa that gets HUGE indoors but takes 6 months or more to harvest. Easily 2 times or longer than a hybrid that gets say 1/2 of the yield but can grow 2 or more rounds in the same time frame. Then there's the longer you run the more issues possible. Lots of variables it not just weight.

Point is time is an important variable as is your lighting - watts at the wall.
 
True that I’m jelly headed today! Not enough wake n bake. I went back and edited it out

Hey big guy see that post above # 70 please
About the Silica? I havent heard of them, but if they are selling monosilicic for that price I think you win the prize for deal of the week. If you are adding pottasium silica to a manufactured soil and let it "cook" for a few months your good. The deal with Potassium silicate is it needs to be broken down. Pot farmers are wrapping up the season just about the time its getting started.

Some say too much Silica will slow verticle growth which can be a blessing if your growing a crazy ass sativa, but you really wouldn't want that if the genetics favor a shorter stature. More isn't better with Silica
 
Thanks man! Yes I snagged a gallon. It can be had cheaper in other places if you dig a little.

I am continually cooking soil with tweaks. I had put DE and river sand in each batch and before recooking or remixing, not heavy doses but heinz 57 of many additives mulch, birdseed, alfalfa, ewc, rabbit pellets, minerals, mycos, azos, rock dust, bio char, etc. I’ve got 4 big plastic drums going.

Thanks for weighing in on that!
 
Thanks man! Yes I snagged a gallon. It can be had cheaper in other places if you dig a little.

I am continually cooking soil with tweaks. I’ve got half a dozen big plastic drums going.
Do you compost? Thats huge, especially if you want to migrate toward a more organic soil. And, its basically free. Grass clippings, dead leaves, kitchen scraps... all good. And you can read up on building a compost that favors fungi or bacteria, or a balance between the 2. The only things you don't want are things like animal dropping, or kitchen proteins... not that they won't help, but they can introduce bad things like Ecoli and other nastiness. Some will add horse poop, but you have to make doubly sure it properly heats up (150degees) to kill the baddies
 
Probably not true composting or worm bin but I add mulch into my cooks and other organic waste that I save orange peels, banana peels, egg shells, small Christmas tree limbs, all seafood waste, oyster shells, crab shells and shrimp tails. Usually aim for balance of both greens and browns.

I did find something neat by accident, I left a bucket mixed with alfalfa pellets and bird seed outdoors and forgot about it, there was another bucket inside that, well the pellets got plenty wet in a big rainstorm. When I next checked on the bucket it stunk real bad and was covered with maggots and white fuzz. So, I dried them out, ground them up and fed them to my plants! I may start repeating that mixture to brew tea with
 
Back
Top Bottom