Yellowing leaves brown spots

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here's today, have been doing some pre flower flip defoliation while waiting for Amazon to get my frigging trellis net here so i can scrog em
 
mastergreenerey said:
Yh yellowong started on lower fans and has now progressed upward also taco curl going on and tips turning brown
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Starting low moving up is a mobile deficiency. Taco curling is usually heat stress or humidity low, or too close to lights. Did it start low and then move and at that point lower fn leaves developed those rusty spots? If so then its a magnesium deficiency. Some deficiency take some time to nail down, mg resembles other deficiency till the spots appear. As previously mentioned root rot can also resemble ANY 1 or multiple deficiencys at any given time.

What have you tried thus far ?
 
Dark green can happen at beginning of nitrogen deficiency though yellowing is the primary thing you will see.

Those leaves to me resemble leaves that lay upon each other and then get over humid ( the droopy weak kinda leaf structure thats too dark green to be any good)

This leaf ive picked on one of mine has a touch of tip rot ( mold/ fungus ) its hard to see in the pic but resembles your spotting, in this case I know its fungus cause I looked under microscope, I am trying to treat by just picking leaves off that show symptoms, if required I will fungicide though.. I mention this cause these spots happened after too much humidity ( humidifier accidentally bumped to 100% on ) and this happened at the sametime as some root rot, so there were many confusing symptoms that didn't point i
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n any 1 direction
 
Victorytoker said:
I assure you its far better to NOT get to a place where you need to try, but it does work. New to hydro i used this to balance the rockwool cubes ph after putting seeds in them without first treating them.. seedling were so frail popping out and I could not figure why till I checked to run off.. ph was 8.4 lolz. Good for me that seeds are strong :)
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Those are those same plants as of oct 30.. many many setbacksinthehydro learning process but we do learn much more from our failures than our successes ;)
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thanks for letting me know about the cube wool and ph problems. One of my clones that is in dwc and i am trying to get it to root inside a wool cube and then placed between the clay pibbles. I usually take the wool cube off before putting them into the dwc system, but this one i didnt. However, now that i know that problem i will simply remove it. I rather have the roots losend up right from the plant. I usually use the wool cube to acts as holding the plant and keeping that stem moist until roots start coming out and from now on i'll remove it when they go into the system.
 
PK said:
thanks for letting me know about the cube wool and ph problems. One of my clones that is in dwc and i am trying to get it to root inside a wool cube and then placed between the clay pibbles. I usually take the wool cube off before putting them into the dwc system, but this one i didnt. However, now that i know that problem i will simply remove it. I rather have the roots losend up right from the plant. I usually use the wool cube to acts as holding the plant and keeping that stem moist until roots start coming out and from now on i'll remove it when they go into the system.
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Rockwool is amazing, BUT you have to soak the cubes in ph adjusted water ( 5.5 ph iirc ) for 12 hours before you use them, they are alkaline if u treated due to the lime in them.

I plan on using them in the future but I will treat them thoroughly first . Check out growdans directions and you should bee all good.
Ext grow I will treat them with ph adjusted water,
Then I will suck em dry with shp vac after 12 hours, and re water with balanced water with (this is key )hydroguard ( prevents rot ) and great white ( encourages growth and kills bad bacteria ) i will also add some vitamin b1 ( a pinch.. helps plant to defend itself .. don't go overboard ) and some zinc ( catalyst for root branching ) likely too i wil add humic acid and kelp extract both which are awesome for root growth ( kelp actually contains root hormone in it )


Don't abandon rockwool, its amazing, butnDO learn all you can before you use it., I set my grow back almost a month in growth I figure. Was not till i saturated the cubes and sucked em dry with shop vac about a dozen times before I saw any new growth., at that point I was just about to toss em, today I'm happy i didn't :)

Also worth mentioning that you cannot go overboard on either hydroguard or great white, I highly recommend getting both for dwc, they are pricey but I'm sure im never growing again without them. D2c has been an I Teresa g learning curve that I'm still working at. Dirt imo was much less required hands on.. but i love a Halle be, 3specially one that yeilds big purple budz :) holy voice novel <send>
 
Victorytoker said:
Starting low moving up is a mobile deficiency. Taco curling is usually heat stress or humidity low, or too close to lights. Did it start low and then move and at that point lower fn leaves developed those rusty spots? If so then its a magnesium deficiency. Some deficiency take some time to nail down, mg resembles other deficiency till the spots appear. As previously mentioned root rot can also resemble ANY 1 or multiple deficiencys at any given time.

What have you tried thus far ?
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Just a flushing so far. And i thought heat stress first so moved the lights back slightly but temps never above 27. And initially started yellowing in the older fans and curl not long after along with tips starting to brown. Maybe a full dosage of base nutrients next option? i was only feeding them just above half dosage
 
mastergreenerey said:
Just a flushing so far. And i thought heat stress first so moved the lights back slightly but temps never above 27. And initially started yellowing in the older fans and curl not long after along with tips starting to brown. Maybe a full dosage of base nutrients next option? i was only feeding them just above half dosage
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temps at 27c should have above 55-60% humidity in vegetative stage.
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mastergreenerey said:
Just a flushing so far. And i thought heat stress first so moved the lights back slightly but temps never above 27. And initially started yellowing in the older fans and curl not long after along with tips starting to brown. Maybe a full dosage of base nutrients next option? i was only feeding them just above half dosage
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Heat stress will usually show near the top where the plant is closest to the light. Do you have a fan pointed around the pots? The reason I ask is that at 27c if that is the ambient temp intnegrow space then likely that is the root zone temp, this is a good temp for anaerobic bacteria ( rot rot )

You could try to blow air at the pots, note though this can also raise fungal spores if they are present in the medium.

Have you tried mizocoriza bacteria? ( great white ) or hydroguard yet? This would be a start if its rot.

Good chart pk left there..

Has the "deficiency" moved up the plant at all ? Or does it remain on lower leaves ? What does new growth look like? If you've done flushing and its not improving then maybe light watering with some nutes, but really what you want is the pots to be flushed and pretty much dry beForce you water again oxygen in root zone is really important, damp stagnation makes bad bacteria. Know that plants are pretty strong and that this in the end will be a lesson well learned when its figured out . :)
 
Victorytoker said:
Heat stress will usually show near the top where the plant is closest to the light. Do you have a fan pointed around the pots? The reason I ask is that at 27c if that is the ambient temp intnegrow space then likely that is the root zone temp, this is a good temp for anaerobic bacteria ( rot rot )

You could try to blow air at the pots, note though this can also raise fungal spores if they are present in the medium.

Have you tried mizocoriza bacteria? ( great white ) or hydroguard yet? This would be a start if its rot.

Good chart pk left there..

Has the "deficiency" moved up the plant at all ? Or does it remain on lower leaves ? What does new growth look like? If you've done flushing and its not improving then maybe light watering with some nutes, but really what you want is the pots to be flushed and pretty much dry beForce you water again oxygen in root zone is really important, damp stagnation makes bad bacteria. Know that plants are pretty strong and that this in the end will be a lesson well learned when its figured out . :)
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I mean to say 27 is the highest ive seen it go currently keeping steady around 25 ish. I have an oscillating fan on the floor blowing air left right up and down then a clip on blowing above canopy ive always managed to keep humids optimum. Only root stimulants i use are rhizotonic and cannazym
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what if you try putting some wet towels around or a container of water. This all helps and brings that humidity up
 
mastergreenerey said:
I dont have an issue with humidity the humidifer currently on lowest setting getting between 60 and 70 nicely
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oh my bad. i saw the temp at 23 thinking it was the humidity
 
I don't know those products but this is what I see..

One has active fertilizer 0-2-1 this is pretty normal for a rooting fertilizer, but have you considered its effect with the other utrients you are giving ? A tds pen would be a excellent idea ( $15 on amaon ) cause you would know what strength you are feeding them.

I notice also the second pic ( canna rhyzo) that it has trace elements... also worth noting, neither of these nutrients are neutral.. that is to say you are not just adding a Bennie bacteria ( if any really ) you are adding in the case of that nutrient kelp extract, this wil, increase ( iirc ) potassium uptake a LOT ( potassium or phosphorus.. again cant remember exactly ) which may explain the really dark dark leaves. It also RAISES ph, so depending, you may be getting out of ph range.

The temp probe mentioned is also a good idea, just note if it controls anything if you move it.. such as a heat mat ( literal,y just saved the wife's flowers from heat death cause of this ) check the root zone temp.


I highly highly recommend hydro guard, or great white.. ideally both you can quite literally sit a plants roots directly in both with zero water ( dont actually do this ) and only that and they will not burn or die.. i know, see that middle plant ? It WAS a runt, whos air stone died.. black root rot... I immersed it in hydroguard 15ml /gallon and great white 1 table spoon/ gal ( seriously ) and did nothing for 2 weeks, no air stone at all, once a day I dumped the bucket into another and then back ( manual lazy aeration) I expected it to be dead as hell after day 1 and so this went on as a project... like I said p, 2 weeks later had a big order come in mail.. another air stone and pump for it and BOOM a week later it caught up to the other front 2.. these 3 are all experiment plants. ( front row )
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In this earlier pic its the rear right side one.. the left rear one also got this abuse.. it lives in some dirt now..
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I mention this ause these things you cannot over do and they are always beneficial to have.

I would test p.h. run off for sure also.. high ph can lockout, that itself can be a hard thing to diagnose,
Remember this. Start with less fertilizers always, deficiency take a while to kill a plant usually, and by the time you see them the plant has had them for a few weeks likely..
If its a nitrogen deficiency the pant should respond positively sometimes in as little as a few hours..
Much like ourselves, toxicity will kill faster than being hungry.

:)
 
So after the flush they were still yellowing for a few days. So maybe bot what was needed. So i replaced mild nutrient solution with same amount other plants were recieving (just above half dosage), along with calmag every feed now, also have kept PH around 6. Thankfully two days after this regime plants are showing healthy green leaves, the upwards curl has gone away. Still have the old yellow leaves which i will remove at some point. Looks like it was a deficiency magnesium, as i could clearly see mag def symptoms but the cupping not too sure maybe potassium also, but they are getting better now and i will be flipping them as soon as i think they are ready.. will take some pics at lights on. Thanks everyone for all the help.
 
mastergreenerey said:
So after the flush they were still yellowing for a few days. So maybe bot what was needed. So i replaced mild nutrient solution with same amount other plants were recieving (just above half dosage), along with calmag every feed now, also have kept PH around 6. Thankfully two days after this regime plants are showing healthy green leaves, the upwards curl has gone away. Still have the old yellow leaves which i will remove at some point. Looks like it was a deficiency magnesium, as i could clearly see mag def symptoms but the cupping not too sure maybe potassium also, but they are getting better now and i will be flipping them as soon as i think they are ready.. will take some pics at lights on. Thanks everyone for all the help.
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Thats awesome to hear, flushing may have helped to reset things. Did you look into hydroguard or mizocorizah bacteria? Rot will also display a variety of symptoms, though it sounds like you got it sorted . Youve learned a valuable first hand solution for a problem AND your plants are surviving.. thats win win. :) my dehumidifier broke last week so $400 later , my windows are not fogged to hell and my plants are recovering from a night where I went down and tent was 92% !!!! I'm discovering dwc is fast growing but more finnicky that soil.. its fun though.. I cut some clones and am going to do a dirt batch right after these girls flower.. I moved one out to chill in the living room.. whoever said 4 plants in a 4x4 space some time ago was spot on
 
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