Gee64
Well-Known Member
lol what a great idea! Too cool
Winter Weedy Wonderland - Auto Grow - Royal Queen Seeds
- Thread starter Lady Cannafan
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #782
This is what I got with a small leaf the other day, nice drip. I've changed the method a bit on what to put the leaf ball in, which gave even more liquid to sample.lol what a great idea! Too cool
Gee64
Well-Known Member
What line of GH nutes are you using?
- Thread starter
- #784
Flora Gro, Flora Bloom, Flora Micro, and CaliMagic 1-0-0.
The FFOF has proven to me to need more of the Cal/Mag, so I add that to the nute mix.
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- #785
I won't buy the FFOF from the place I did before. I believe without a doubt those thrips came in those two bags of soil.
There was a couple of tears in the bags when I got them, I don't appreciate that when you pay so much for the stuff.
There was a couple of tears in the bags when I got them, I don't appreciate that when you pay so much for the stuff.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Thrips aren't actually as bad as they sound. They are in the upper spectrum of low brix, so it's usually an easy adjustment to raise brix and then they are gone. We'll know soon enough. Geoflora is easily capable of achieving high brix. Low calcium and over watering are usually the main culprits if GF is showing low brix.
Edit: I guess they are actually in the mid level, but upper mid level.
Here is a chart showing what insect groups like what levels.
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- #788
Good to know they aren't as bad as they sound, but they sure make the leaves look ungodly fugly.
I did come very close to killing three of these kids with overwatering during seedling stage, but we adapted, improvised, and overcame the problem. It was a glorious achievement. LOL
I've always been quite happy with GH line, so I've stuck with it.
I've got some GH liquid Kool Bloom 0-10-10 here, but haven't used it. Any experience with that?
That's cheating! (but I like it)
4our8ighty0
Well-Known Member
This is amazing info right here, very good to know.bim shocked that brix can even repel grasshoppers!!! They are ruthless,they devour miles of crops regularly,shizz they so bad they even a punishment from God lmao. So. Brix of 10/12 is strong enough to deflect plagues !!!?! Lmao. ...I'm very impressedThrips aren't actually as bad as they sound. They are in the upper spectrum of low brix, so it's usually an easy adjustment to raise brix and then they are gone. We'll know soon enough. Geoflora is easily capable of achieving high brix. Low calcium and over watering are usually the main culprits if GF is showing low brix.
Edit: I guess they are actually in the mid level, but upper mid level.
Here is a chart showing what insect groups like what levels.
It kinda makes you think. Why donāt large food crops have high enough brix to stop using pesticides that may or may not be in the food we eat and then ruin ecosystems down the line from the farm. Is it truly cheaper to forgo brix and pay for gallons on gallons of pesticide.This is amazing info right here, very good to know.bim shocked that brix can even repel grasshoppers!!! They are ruthless,they devour miles of crops regularly,shizz they so bad they even a punishment from God lmao. So. Brix of 10/12 is strong enough to deflect plagues !!!?! Lmao. ...I'm very impressed
Gee64
Well-Known Member
No, sorry. The only liquids I use are hydrolysed fish ferts, home made calmag, and RO water. Liquid feeds tend to bypass the soil biota and feed the plant directly, which crashes brix.
In the presence of adequate light and minerals, high brix only really requires 5 things. Calcium, Phosphorus, Carbon, Oxygen, and beneficial aerobic soil microbes/fungii.
Carbon comes from the air. O2 does too but overwatering displaces it from the rootball.
Calcium is activated by water, so dry calcium in the soil or a calmag solution will work, and P MUST come thru a microbe.
And then of course microbes and fungii.
The plant knows that in order to get the microbes/fungii to deliver the food it must bribe them, so it creates excess sugars to trade for food, and P is the hardest food to get, so you need more sugars for bribery.
If you bypass the microbes and give P straight to the plant, such as liquid P does, there is now far less need for sugars, and it all crashes.
So in a nutshell, you need adequate light and minerals to drive photosynthesis, and then you need a proper balnce of the big 5, Calcium, Carbon, Oxygen, Phosphorus, and microbes/fungii. That sets up the sugar factory.
So for most soil growers it's just an adjustment. For hydro growers it's a complete change.
LOS is meant to produce high brix, it's natures way, so if you are using LOS and brix are low it's almost always overwatering, which restricts oxygen, or low calcium.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Nothing can fully repel grasshopoers or catapillars completely. They are assholes. High brix will greatly reduce hopper damage tho. You will still see some nibble marks on healthy outdoor plants, but no ravishing. They are the original plague!This is amazing info right here, very good to know.bim shocked that brix can even repel grasshoppers!!! They are ruthless,they devour miles of crops regularly,shizz they so bad they even a punishment from God lmao. So. Brix of 10/12 is strong enough to deflect plagues !!!?! Lmao. ...I'm very impressed
- Thread starter
- #794
Okay, I did have to calibrate the Refractometer. Easy peasy.
I found it a little difficult to get the liquid spread on the meter surface without having any bubbles or areas without liquid. Takes practice, I'm guessing.
My first leaf test came out with a clear line 11 on the brix scale. I tested one of the Goat'lato that is not flowering yet, and otherwise healthy.
Hit me! Not too hard though...k?
I found it a little difficult to get the liquid spread on the meter surface without having any bubbles or areas without liquid. Takes practice, I'm guessing.
My first leaf test came out with a clear line 11 on the brix scale. I tested one of the Goat'lato that is not flowering yet, and otherwise healthy.
Hit me! Not too hard though...k?
Gee64
Well-Known Member
That's a very good question. Sugars are dense, so a high brix carrot will wrigh more than a low brix carrot, and they sell by weight.
It's because of subsidy. Big Ag will prebuy your entire crop regardless of success or failure if you buy and use their products.
So if you grow shitty produce you get paid regardless of how the season goes. 70% of crops go to feed cattle for humans to eat.
Add in GMO and it gets really ugly really fast. If folks knew what GMO really was they would eat sidewalk gum before eating GMO products.
I actually grow high brix weed to study brix that I transfer into my veggies. Weed is a hyper accumulator, so it grows very quickly on a short lifespan.
I can usually pull 3 crops in my tent in the outdoor off season, and then apply my findings to my next food crop.
I'm a health junkie plant eater, so brix is vital in my veggie garden.
That's why I don't do regular grow journals. I can't do a whole grow without some kind of experiment happening, so a grow journal gets way off track with conversation that makes a lot of peoples eyes glaze over.
Plus I have a resistance to smoking bug spray.
What I HAVE found out is that healthy weed really boosts compost. It's a game changer.
Most of my weed ends up as compost or worm food.
- Thread starter
- #796
I have been known to change my grows on a whim...so the title never really matched what was going on. On one of them I put right in the title "Where everything changes". LOL
Iāve never finished a grow once that went as planned if there was a plan. Lmao where everything changes has a lot of appeal to me.
So as with most things we donāt like or understand it comes down to money/lazy. Farmers get lazy cause they get the money either way and money rules all. Dammit man.
So as with most things we donāt like or understand it comes down to money/lazy. Farmers get lazy cause they get the money either way and money rules all. Dammit man.
11 brix is one off from āhighā or high enough. Not much further to get there! I usually put a big drop right on the glass and close the lid. The lid spreads the liquid out evenly with capillary action or surface tension.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
See, thrips are good! Your almost there. Aphids outright suck. Mites are in the middle.Okay, I did have to calibrate the Refractometer. Easy peasy.
I found it a little difficult to get the liquid spread on the meter surface without having any bubbles or areas without liquid. Takes practice, I'm guessing.
My first leaf test came out with a clear line 11 on the brix scale. I tested one of the Goat'lato that is not flowering yet, and otherwise healthy.
Hit me! Not too hard though...k?
That crisp line is your issue. This is an easy fix to rid yourself of the thrips.
Calcium is a lot more than a nutrient. It's the key piece. It conditions the soil as well as acting as a nutrient. It creates tilth and in conjunction with Mg, is the main player in your CEC. So if it's low, lockout and PH issues are occurring. She needs Calmag.
Use an organic one if possible, or buy some prilled dolomite and make your own.
Low dose calmag used a couple times is far superior to one big dose. Calcium works on contact to fix the soil, and in 2 or 3 days it's into the plant fully. Once the line gets fuzzy then lay off the calmag.
Try one dose as per light feeding instructions on the container, wait 48 hours, then brix her agsin and follow the refractometer results. You want fairly fuzzy.
@g-one-three has dialed in photographing refractometer results. G, you got some examples for Lady C of good and bad here?
Then monitor weekly and when the line is almost crisp again, you give her some more calmag.
When that line goes crisp you are about 2 weeks away from the classic brown-spots-on-the-leaves calcium deficiency, which means she is stressing for 2 weeks before you hear about it. Starving for cations too, and nitrogen gets locked by magnesium when Ca gets low, so you are in the beginnings of a big crash. Full starvation.
Calmag her today and in 2 days your golden again.
If you get clawed leaves, which are indicitive of nitro toxicity, thats calcium releasing all the locked up nitrogen at once. You want that to occur before flipping to flower, where a nitro bomb can really hurt.
Preach brother! Iām learning a lot.