1970s Grower
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So what is everyone using for a PH meter?
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]I bought the Hannah 98129 as it was what the Hydro Shop had in stock on the "better" end. No where in the instructions does it say to keep the bulb wet, but I have read elsewhere not to let it dry out.
It is also an EC meter and I am having a hard time rectifying the math conversion to PPM. I can choose .7 or .5 conversion from EC to PPM.. WTF is that about PPM should be parts per million period. There should be no choice of conversion.
Dazed and confused on this one.
best way is to measure the runoff when you water with a PH meter. You want to catch and measure the runoff when it first starts dribbling out, so that it's most accurate.
This is very inaccurate. The best way to test soil is with a high quality soil PH tester. If you wish to test soil PH with your pen/water PH tester here is how.
Mix your amended soil in a 2-1 ratio(IE: half cup soil/1-cup water....... 2 TBSP soil/1 TBSP water..... etc) with distilled water, stir well into slurry, let sit for 30 min. This will allow the slurry to stabilize. Then test away.
Testing the runoff of the water will give false readings.
The best way to stabilize PH is to prepare the soil by sweetening it with the ratio of 2TBSP of dolomite lime per gallon of soil. Mix well while dry, add your water and let sit for a few weeks before use. When I do this and then test with the slurry test I get PH 6.2 -6.6 consistently.
1970's grower... In my limited experience, (third grow now), in soil, the ph rises, especially when in flower. This appears to go against what happens "normally". It seems most people experience a drop in ph during bloom. I stand to be corrected, of course..!
I understand the ph alters as the plant draws the required nutrients from the soil. It requires different nutrients at different stages ... and that that's a fact.
Dolomite, in my experience, raised the ph of the soil. It has a natural ph of 10, I believe.
Interesting thread...
this may be a dumb question but here goes...if my plants look and seem healthy(they are growing about 4"-5" a week) should i assume the PH level is ok ?
It can be very difficult near impossible to grow a healthy plant without proper understanding of pH and the tools to monitor and adjust the pH.
A must is a good digital pH meter.
I feel like this should be a sticky. A lot of beginner growers including myself treated pH as an after thought. These days I spend close to an hour carefully testing and adjusting my pH each feeding/watering and my results have improved drastically.
IMO pH issues are the root of almost every mystery problem.
Great thread.
One teaspoon of vinegar will lower the ph of a gallon of water by about one full point
One teaspoon of baking soda will raise the ph of one gallon of water by about one full point.
Get the real ph down. It's cheap and although the house items will work they lack the buffers the real stuff has so your PH will not remain stable as long.
Yup!
Vinegar is an acid so will lower the ph.
One teaspoon of vinegar will lower the ph of a gallon of water by about one full point, so 1/2 teaspoon will move the ph of a gallon of water from 7.0 to 6.5.
White distilled vinegar is the cheapest and will work just as well as more expensive types.
Citric acid, aka "lemon salt", is less common as a household item but is another cheap acid to use.
A mere 1/4 teaspoon of citric acid crystals will lower the ph of a gallon of water from 7 to 4.
Herbalcom.com, which sells all sorts of herbs and spices, currently has food grade citric acid for $3.25 per lb. They're the best I've found.
Baking Soda is a base, so will raise the ph.
One teaspoon of baking soda will raise the ph of one gallon of water by about one full point.
Don't put your ph adjuster directly in the media of course. Mix them with your water or nutrient solution. Also, if you're mixing a nutrient solution, keep in mind that fertilizers are generally pretty acidic themselves so will lower the ph of the water you mix them in. The various brands and formulations don't all alter the ph by the same amount though, so there's no simple rule to follow, and of course the more fertilizer you use the more the ph will go down, so you've really got to measure the ph to tell what you're getting. Mix in the fertilizer first to tell where it leaves the ph, then adjust as necessary. If you adjust the ph first then add the fertilizer, you'll end up having to adjust the ph yet again to get it right, taking more time and wasting your ph adjuster in the process.